Cutting Department in Garment Industry ensure that the job card. Approved sample, Approved mock sample (for each lot), lot to lot shade continuity, PPC file and Q/C report is received and studied carefully, before starting audit. We sale Auto Garments Fabric Bundle Code Generator System …
Auditing the cutting as per the required . Prepare a check list (pocket size) of all components of the garments in the approved sample.( Neck tape, twill tape, fusing, half moon, placket parts, pocket bag, etc. might be over sighted).
Spread all the components (not forgetting the fabric for neck tape and trims) on the audit table and ensure that all components are in accordance to the check list.
Keeping all the cutting department’s personnel aware of the quality requirements. Randomly check parts of all components from different places, but same sequence for shade variation and oil marks on fabric.
Cutting Department in Garment Industry check quantity according to job card in the bundles chosen /or audit.
Check for specs in relaxed from against approved hard pattern. Taking from the first, middle and last part of all components.
Check for cutting mistakes (miss-cuts, shape out, ragged cutting, narrow goods, miss-matching. Notch marks variation, bowing,. Etc.)
Conduct audit on O.Q.L.1.5% and high light all quality defects with out disturbing the sequence of the bundles.
Reporting to Quality Manager about the problems in cutting department and suggesting the solutions for the same. Sample size pull out should be at random covering all sizes:
Quantity shortage, all cutting defects, specs variation. Shade variation, trims miss-matching and all other fabric defects should be taken up by the Officer or Asst Manager in-charge in consultation with the Deputy Manager or Manager who is the Q/A representative in the cutting Dept.
Reporting Quality Manager and Q.A Fabrics about the problems related to fabrics and accessories.. any sort of pressure on the auditor in his findings. If any approval is given by his departmental superiors he should mention same in the remarks column without altering his documents and should not change the results. All defects in his finding should be mentioned as MAJOR and no MINOR.
the Q/A shift in-charge has the authority to change the audit result only in remarks column if he received any documented authentic approval from the Merchandising Manager or his nominated representative (in the absence of the merchandising manager) or authorized person nominated in consultation with all concerned authorities; ONLY FOR FABRIC AND TRIMS ISSUES. The Q/A shift in-charge should mention in the Q/A reports by whom the approval is received and attach the documented approval along with the Q/A report.
This information should be immediately brought to the notice of the Q/A representative, and he should ensure that the concerned Stitiching unit head is made aware of these approvals. And also should ensure that compensation is approved for moving the lot with components with unacceptable Quality standards.
If no such change in audit result is done and if the audit fails at O.Q.L 1.5% the total lot will be returned to the Q/C dept. For 100% re-screening
The Q/A shift in-charge should ensure that the Quantity maintained in job card is adjusted according to the percentage of the number of pieces removed for defects from the bundles audited.
Reporting Quality Manager and Q.A Fabrics about the problems related to fabrics and accessories. Only Q/A audit passed quantities will be fed into the system to generate a gate pass to move the lot to the Stitiching facility.
Once the audit is completed and a report is generated the concerns auditor will sign the report and the group leader shift in-charge and Q/C authorized person has confirm by signing that audit result are correct. The Q/A representative will reconfirm this result.
Conclusion
Cutting Department in Garment Industry audit passed the lot should be moved to the induction department ensuring the bags are properly sealed along with the Q/C, and Q/A reports, approved mock sample and shade continuity of that lot.
Paper Roll to Sheet Cutting Machine . Quality control system
Paper roll to sheet cutting machine
P.I.V Gear box
Variable Speed Control 2 H.P Motor
Electric Control Panel
Hard Knife
V-Belt fanner make
Delivery section
Buyer will not accept any short shipment .We have to send the daily report which will show the delivery quantity to order quantity. They will also collect carton receipt report from their makers. In case we short deliver like we do they will apply discount. It is very similar to Sheet Pasting Machine
Therefore it is very important issue that delivery section add a supervisor for Buyer to receiver produced goods in full quality from production department and ensure the carton’s are piled up in
assigned area.
Customer care will hand over the store list of Factories.
Buyer works with 123 factories in Dhaka and Chittagong. We will have to distribute goods without delay. Deliver department must not handle and delay in arranging trucks/transportation as they do with current orders.
If extra transport support required multiple transports company can be selected and agreement can be done for transport availability.
No short shipment allowed.
Buyer will evaluate our delivery service and if any trouble and pain is given to their factories, factory will receive penalty point of discount.
Quality control system
Quality is one of the major part of buyer order execution. Each complains will put ATl to red rated factory in buyer records and will be terminated from nomination after certain quality control complains.
A AQL of 2.5 to be applied.
Quality to be controlled from board making to finishing.
A separate quality team to be formed for quality control of orders who will be educated with buyer QA standard.
Each lot to be inspected and record to be kept for buyer audit.
Final Inspection to be conducted and for singed copy of report by Ismail/Rubel to QA manager to be sent to office.
In case any quality problem takes place at customer’s ware house, first carton investigated. This strict instruction. As they will not allow any disruption of supply chain.
Paper Roll to Sheet Cutting Machine -The replacement failed and goodswill cancel nomination with imposition of penalty of full cost of airing. Productions
to QA department are strictly instructed to replace carton’s instantly in case
of quality problem and then investigate.
Automatic fabric spreading means the smooth laying out of various types of fabric according to specific length. Fabric Spreading Machine is one type of machine by which the smooth laying out of various types of fabric according to specific length automatically instead of pulled by workers. The objective of spreading is to place a number of plies of fabric that the production planning process has dictated, to the length of the marker plan, in the colors required, correctly aligned to length and width, and without tension. Although in certain sections, it remains necessary to cut single garments, in most of the cases rejects is the cause of single piece cutting.
Application of Fabric Spreading:
Application of fabric spreading devices are given below-
To keep the number of plies of fabric to the length according to the length of the marker plan perfectly aligned as to the length and width and without tension.
To make every ply plain and flat.
To cut many plies at a time.
Types of Fabric Spreader Machine:
There two types of fabric spreader machine:
Flat fabric spreader machine
Stepped fabric spreader machine
Parts of Automatic Spreading Machine :
Fabric setting bar
Bucket for roll fabric
Manual Handle for fabric feeding
Edge control sensor
Expander roller
Wind protection curtain
Cutter rail
Cutter device
Fabric sliding plate
Operation panel or cutter
Parts of Automatic Spreading Machine
Cutter device: Dismountable fabric spreading auto-cutter is available here and travel length and speed of cutter can be easily adjustable.
Automatic Lifting device: This device automatically lifts the layer of fabric at the time of spreading and the lifting gauze is changeable.
Edge control sensor : This device controls the edge of fabric.
Emergency stop: It has break line under the two side of table these break lines are can be pulled at the time of emergency to stop the machine immediately.
Bucket for roll fabric: This device automatically relaxes the fabric in tension and release the tension of fabric.
Fabric loading sensor: This device returns the spreader machine back to original position when fabric runs empty.
Expander roller: It catches the fabric both one way and face to face during spreading.
Operation panel : This display enables the user to set up the length of fabric and control the number of layer of fabric easily.
Specification of Fabric Spreader Machine:
Standard specification of a fabric spreader machines is given blow-
Specifications Name
Specifications Value
Product Category
Cutting
Machine Category
Fabric Spreader Machine
Product Name
Fabric Spreader
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent In Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
63KW
Working width:
160-180-200-220-240 CM (63.0-70.8-78.8-86.6-94.5 inches)
Max roll diameter
5O cm
Roll wight
80kg-675kg
Fabric thickness
5cm(each ply)
Spread
All type of fabric from lycra to Denim
Max Spreading
100m/min
Maximum height of spread
25cm
Display:
Total number of plies – plies to spread and plies already spread
Motor
1.6 /2.0 Kw
Advantage Spreading Machine:
Auto ply cutting device for spreading of fabric
Auto ply counting arrangements
Auto catcher to gold the ends of the ply.
Auto fabric tensioning device is used for spreading of fabric
Fabric selvedge alignment is done by photo electric guide.
Fabric fault detector is used in spreading of fabric
Macine gives automatically a signal when spreading of fabric is done.
All kind of fabric can be spreaded and all kind of fabric lay can be prepared in this machine..
Fabric spreading can be done very quickly.
Less labor cost by spreading of fabric.
Fabric Spreading Table Feature:
Standard and air flotation spreading table feature are
To easily pull spread fabrics by blowing device, pulling and cutting fabrics at the same time, largely raising work efficiency.
Thickness of spreading table is 28cm with several boards. Surface is stuck imported strong material.
Two sides of spreading table are installed stainless steel. Linking between two boards is flat.
Holes on the spreading table are especial holes, which are not the same others and can not jam holes when gas beads are left.
Stand is made of cold rolling 4cm*8cm No. C tube and welded through after pickling with powder painting coating. There is screw under the stand, which may adjust height freely to support flat spreading table and well spreading fabrics.
To adopt module design, it is convenient installing, transportation. Length of section is 1.20m. It is wide to use with all kinds of brands spreaders and automatic cutting bed.
Width of spreading table is depended on specification of spreader. Widths are usually 1.83m, 2.13m, 2.33m and so forth. Height of stand is 80-90cm.
Types of Fabric Spreading Table:
Various types of fabric spreading tables are listed below –
Fabric Spreading Table
Manual turning spreading table consist of cradle for face to face fabric spreading.
General fabric spreading table
Fabric spreading table with air blowing facility.
Fabric spreading table with conveyor belt.
How to Operate Automatic Fabric Spreading Machine:
On power switch
Off edge control switch
Off clutch switch
Set spreading mode
Set roll condition
Set spreading length and pcs of layers
How to Set the Fabric:
Set edge control device in center
Set fabric roll in the bucket at center position
Pull the fabric by feeding switch
Use manual handle to feed down for the fabric
Until pass through the cutting device, feed the fabric by manual handle
Set the edge control sensor position
On edge control device
On clutch switch
Start cutter device to cut vertical line
Push left drive switch to start the machine
Before Use Fabric Spreader:
Select spreading length
Install start position attachment at table stand
Operate manual grip to drive the machine to start position
Set block at the center position
Push manual grip to left drive
Stop the machine where you want to finish spreading and push manual measurement key it will be turn on, an measurement will be installed.
Trouble Shooting:
Please refer below Instruction, if you have a trouble in your machine.
Error Message: Machine does not drive.
Turn on Power Switch?
Display Error Message for Main Drive?
If so, turn off the power and restart after 2-3 min.
Check Power & Wire condition.
Error Message: Machine can drive by Manual. But it does not drive by Automatic.
Work Fabric End Sensor?
Check Fabric Roll Position or Edge Control Sensor.
Work Emergency Limit Switch?
Check Emergency Wire.
Set Number of Pcs.?
Check Counter Full?
Check RS Relay which located inside of Electric Box
Whether Lighting or not. (If Lighting, machine will not run.)
Error Message: Machine stop during spreading
Work Fabric End Sensor?
Check Trolley Duct. (Metal Bar must be touch each other.)
Check Power Connection.
Error Message: Does not work for Emergency Wire
Check Emergency Limit Spring.
Check Limit Switch Condition.
Position is correct for Emergency Limit Switch?
Error Message: Electric Leakage
Install Ground Connection.
Check other devices.
Error Message: Measurement is not accurate .
When Manual driving, use grip smoothly. (Wheel Slip)
Check Wheel surface whether any dust attached on it?
Check Driving Belt Tension.
Error Message: Does not work for Edge Control Device
Check On Condition for Edge Control Switch.
Error Message: Cutter Device does not move to up automatically.
Check setting with any number.
Check Parameter setting seconds.
Error Message: Does not work for Bucket Device
Check Fuse.
Error Message: Does not work for Bucket by Auto.
But it will be works by Manual.
Need Edge Sensor Sensitivity Adjustment.
Check Edge Sensor Surface dust etc.
Clean by clothes.
Work Fabric Entl Sensor?
Clutch switch should be Off.
Error Message: Cutter Device does not drive, and Round Knives also not rotating.
Check Cutter Device Connector.
Check Fuse Condition.
Work Fabric End Sensor?
Select Zig Zag Mode?
SOP For Fabrics Spreading:
Before fabric lay fabric must be relax according to fabric nature.
Dilot should be separate segarate according to fabric.
Laying of fabric must do according to fabric dilot.
Fabric laying length must keep in twenty yards not above.
You must know about fabric length and quantity before laying the fabric.
Over laping is not acceptable when we laying fabric
Tension of fabric must keep in normal according to fabric nature.
Ramnent must keep in hand after laying fabric.
Spaik are using every 1yard (after 1 yard) for check fabric.
Application Of Fabric Spreading Machine :
The bulk cutting of the garments, makes it possible to cut garments in bulk and by doing so achieves the savings in fabric that is available through the use of multi-garment marker plans and the savings in the cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at the same time.
The spreading study I adopted in my study included
The requirements of the spreading process
The method of spreading
The nature of fabric packages
The spreading requirements which includes the objectives achieved by the spreading process are
Shade sorting of cloth pieces
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
Alignment of plies
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric fault
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting (for polyester)
The fabric is drawn from the package, which is the roll in this case. This roll is supported on a frame, and the end is carried along the table where another operator who clamps the end on the clamp secures the end. The other operators align the edges and check the tension of the ply. The operator releasing the end, in the meanwhile cuts the end of the fabric from the roll, and is ready for another lay. The operator taking the fabric to the other end comes back empty ended, and he too is ready for another lay. The end of the fabric is cut using a round knife in case of solid or stripe fabric. But in case of the check fabric, a cut is made, using a hand cutter and the width of the fabric is torn manually, so that there is no bowing or skewing occurring due to shifting of grain during cutting.
The spreading is done manually and there is no fabric spreading machine for the purpose. The spreading mode is also generally nap-one-way face-one-way. The cheap labor provides the major reason for the existing mode of spreading and also the use of fabric spreading machine can be avoided for the same reason.
The spreading of a lay requires 3-8 people for laying, depending on the marker mode and the size of the lay. These people do various spreading related work like, holding and taking the fabric from the roll, taking the end of the fabric roll to the other end, aligning the fabric with the lower plies, and catching the other end of the spread. Even in a scenario of a small spread, at least 3 people are required, specifically, 1 for releasing and cutting the fabric, 1 for taking the end of the fabric to the other end and 1 for catching this end of the fabric.
The wooden tables are used for spreading and they are coated with a ply, in order to avoid shifting. The tables are 856” long, 67” wide and have a height of 33”. The lighting condition is sufficient throughout the room, since there are as many as 22 lights over one table and 8 fans over the same area.
Conclusion:
Spreading of fabric is also can be done in manual method. The person carrying the end of the fabric goes with the fabric to the other end but comes back empty handed, so he is being paid for only the double as compared to the actual work he is doing. For bigger length of spreads, there are as many as 4 people employed just to align the fabric and check the tension throughout. Therefore, this spreading process is not very productive and should be taken into consideration and a change should be brought in the spreading technique as soon as possible. In manual method fabric can be spreaded by hand, by hook and spreading truck with the help of operator.
