Sewing Machine Stitches

Sewing machine stitches made by bartacking sewing machine like janome  is actually a lockstitch sewing machine group which produced a very high density sewing machine stitches in a very short length for increase strength of that particular place. Bartacking machine contains one needle and one bobbin. These machines are used for sewing both woven and knitted garments by machine operators

Function of Bar Tack Machine:

Bartack machine is used where the garments in high pressure such as belt loop, pocket corner, at the end of zipper and in that place where more strength is required to support extra load.

bar tack machine sewing
bar tack machine

It is alternative of hand sewing. This machine is found on sewing shop.

Parts of the Sewing Machine:

Parts of the sewing machine is given below-

  • Pulley
  • Bobbin winding spring tensioner
  • Back stitch lever
  • Spring tensioner post box
  • Thread guide
  • Thread take-up lever
  • Needle
  • Pressure feed guide
  • Throat plate
  • Bobbin
  • Bobbin case
  • Pressure lever

More Spare Parts

  • Anty Cutter
  • Anty Cutter Knife
  • Bobbin Case (P/M)
  • Bobbin (P/M)
  • Bobbin B/H
  • Bobbin B/ Stitch
  • Bobbin Bar Tak
  • Bobbin Two Needle
  • Cutter
  • Cutter Special
  • Cutting knife 6”
  • Cutting knife 8”
  • Cutting knife 10”
  • Cutting Belt
  • Cutting belt smol 3”
  • Collar sewing gau.
  • Cutting Clam
  • Flying Guide
  • Fabric Comb: (Steel)
  • Guide Cr ¼
  • Guide Cl ¼
  • Guide Cr 1/16
  • Plastic Hammar
  • Piping Guide Cr
  • Piping Guide Cl
  • Scissors 6”
  • Scissors 8”
  • Scissors 10”
  • Scissor Steel
  • Star Gauge
  • Gauge
  • Twizer
  • Tag Gun Machine (Nor)
  • Tag Gun Machine (C/M)
  • Thermo Paper
  • Teaching Wheel
  • Zipper Guide (R/L)
  • Zipper Guide (2 Side)
  • Guide Cl 1/16
  • Guide Cr 1/32
  • Guide Cl 1/32
  • Guide Cr 1/8

Needle:

Kinds of needle. Mainly needle are two types:

  1. Ball head needle.
  2. Sharp head needle.

Use of needle according to process and machine:

SlMachine nameUsed needleSize
1Plain machineDb,  dp7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18
Any size can be used according to fabric nature.
2Welted kansaiUo, uy7, 9, 11, 14, 16,
Mainly used for kansai size is-14.
32 needle machineDp7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18
Mainly used for this machine size is-14, 11.

 

 

4Feed of theTv7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18
Mainly used for this process size is-14, 11.

 

 

5Over lockDc7, 9, 11, 14, 16,
6Hole sewingDp*57, 9, 11, 14, 16
7Button sewingTq 1*5 & dp*177, 9, 11, 14, 16 / 11-16
8Shaddle stc machineCp *1/1212 – 18
9Blind stc machineLw * 6t9, 11, 14, 16

Note 1:- 7. , 9, 11 these number of needle are used for thin thread and according to fabric nature

For soft and normal fabric to avoid needle mark and after wash fabric rejection this these thin

Needles are used.

Note 2:- 14, 16, 18 these number of needles are used for thick thread according to fabric nature.

For thick and strong fabric these needles are used for perfection of the order.

Note 3:- for knit fabric ball head needle is used to avoid needle mark and after wash fabric rejection. Note 4:- all the db needle are thin in btm side and all the dp needle are thick in btm.

Yarn & needle size of international standard

Astmd 1683
Yarn specification tex/ countRemark
Cotton35 tex

 

70 tex

105 tex

 
Polyester core40 tex

 

60 tex

90 tex

 
Bs 3320
Polyester core spun44  to 48 tex(ticket no. 80) 
Iso 13936 – 1-2
100 % polyester core spun45 tex ± 5tex 
Astmd 434
Polyester cotton core thread36 tex 
Mercerized cotton39 tex 

Needle specification

SizeMetric 90(0.036 in) 
FinishChrome 
PointThin ball ( no.1/no.23) 
   
SizeMetric 110(0.044 in) 
FinishChrome 
PointMedium ball ( no.23/no.43) 
   
SizeMetric 110(0.044 in) 
FinishChrome 
PointMedium ball ( no.43/no.44) 
   
SizeMetric 140(0.054 in) 
FinishChrome 
PointMedium ball ( no.43/no.44) 
   
SizeMetric 110(0.044 in) 
FinishChrome 
PointMedium ball ( no.no.44) 
   
SizeMetric 140(0.054 in) 
FinishChrome 
PointHeavy ball ( no.45) 
   

Yarn  size of international standard

Astmd 1683
Yarn specification tex/ countRemark
Cotton35 tex

 

70 tex

105 tex

 
Polyester core40 tex

 

60 tex

90 tex

 
Bs 3320
Polyester core spun44  to 48 tex(ticket no. 80) 
Iso 13936 – 1-2
100 % polyester core spun45 tex ± 5tex 
Astmd 434
Polyester cotton core thread36 tex 
Mercerized cotton39 tex 

Broken Needle Procedure:                                                  

  • When a needle is broken during sewing, every effort must be made to locate ALL fragments of the broken needle in the garment(s), machinery must be checked, including such areas as the sewing machine throat plate, feed dogs and bobbin case.
  • Magnet will be used to locate/search all fragments of the broken needle.
  • Any breakage must be recorded in the Needle Control Log and the broken fragments attached (kept) in the Log; entries into the Log must be completed in full.
  • The Log should be kept in the Production Manager’s office. Head of Quality Control /QC Inspector shall review this Log at least once a month.
  • If all fragments cannot be found, then the bundle of garments on which the operator is sewing, and any bundles in close proximity must be taken to a separate place for further examination.
  • Unauthorized access to the place where garments in question placed must be forbidden.
  • Under management supervision, all garments should be checked thoroughly.
  • Garments in questions will be accepted only when all fragments will be recovered or when it is ensured that there are no broken fragments of the needle within the garments.

Features of Bar Tack Machine:

  • It is simple automatic sewing machine.
  • It is used for heavy sewing is small predetermined length.
  • It contains 18 to 72 stitches, has option to change stitch density.
  • Bartack machine based on lock stitches.
  • It is a cyclic operation like hand sewing
  • Sewing tools is key factors.

Specification of Bar Tacking Sewing Machine:

Specification of bar tacking sewing machine is given below-

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“][label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product CategorySewing
Machine CategoryBar tacking Machine
Product NameBar tacking Machine
Product ModelJuki model
Product ClassNew
OriginChina/India/Others
Brand/ ManufacturerElna
Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
Power380v
TemperatureNormal
CertificationSGS/Others
Production CapacityNA
GroupLock stitch (Interlacement)
Stitch per one press64 stiches (per pressure)
No of needle1 needles
No of Bobbin1
Seam classSuper imposed/Bound/lapped
Stitch class300
DescriptionShould be error free.

How to Transport a Sewing Machine:

The machine generally packed with two piece covers that made as expanded polyester to protect it. Put the machine into carton. Use a cart or by two mens hands to move it.

How to Storage the Machine: 

The machine must use duster cover to cover it when it did not work. Do not storage the machine over 45 degree centigrade temperature because the machine does not work over 45 degree  centigrade temperature

Warning Instruction: 

  • Pay attention to the following warning advices:
  • Working area is dangerous
  • Never touch the needle if the machine is still running
  • Be careful if you infeed fabric
  • Do not insert your finger between needle and feed dog for transportation on fabric
  • Movable parts must be enclosed with guard when you operate
  • Turn off the power during adjusting , threading, bobbin-changing and needle cleaning

Risk of Bar Tack Machine:

Broken needle may injure finger, eye or any where of the body.

Risk of Bar Tack Machine
Risk of Bar Tack Machine

Solution of Bar Tack Machine:

Use PPE Finger guard, Eye guard, Googles etc.).

Conclusion:

Bar tack machine is one of the most important and most expensive machines of garments production. It is not used for normal purpose.

[1] Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com