Rockwell Plastics/Composite
(11Fta (Alpha), ISO 2039-2, ASTM
D785)
Scales: E, 1, M, R
Ball Indentation Plastics (ISO
2039-1)
Rockwell for Soft Metal
According to ISO 6508, ASTM E18
Scales: A 13CDEFGFIKLMN PRSTVW XY
Force Range
Preload
3kg,10kg
For Rockwell
15, 30, 45, 60, 100,150 kg
Rockwell Plastics/Composite 60. WO kg
Loading technology
Closed loop force control
Loading control (application, holding, and renlOval)
114mm diameter hardened and ground
anvil 230mm x 150mm rectangular hardened and ground anvil
6mm diameter spot and vet anvil
for 6-30mm diameter
specimens
Certification
13S EN ISO 6508-2, ASTM E18, UKAS
Test Blocks
UKAS Certified according to the following Scales and I lardness Values HRA Hardness Value 56 FIRE Hardness Value 92 HRE Hardness Value 100, 90, 75 I IRI. Hardness Value 123, 120,118 HRM Hardness Value 118, 112, 107 FIRR Hardness Value 126, 123,112
Electric pencil hardness tester
Test angle: 45 degrees
Load: Adjustable, 500g 250g 250g
Speed: 5mm / sec, adjustable
Travel distance: 40mm
Platform: about 12x17cm, can be fixed samples
Power: 220V / 50Hz
Accessories: Standard Pencil 6B ~ 6H each one, a total of 14 weights
As of November 2003, WRAP has over 700 international manufacturers with over 1300 participating factories in the program and has certified 570 factories. Certifications are valid for 12 months and all participating plants are subject to unannounced compliance inspections as mandated by the certification program. Many manufacturers have commented that WRAP has not only resulted in more reliable social compliance, but has contributed to greater productivity, lower turnover, improved communications between management and employees, safer working conditions and greately improved morale. Today, WRAP is being recognized by many retailers and manufacturers as the most reliable, yet economically efficient factory compliance system to assure lawful, ethical and humane manufacturing. The WRAP Good Factory Seal of Approval continues gain acceptance by sewn products manufacturers, retailers and governments around the globe.
Yarn Fiction Tester – Applicable to Multiple yarn type Friction angle adjustable Pretension Applicable Pretension range 0-24CN Yarn testing speed 20m/min or 110m/min All accessories required to make equipment operational Standard JISL1095 ASTM D3108 ASTM D3412
BATCH CODING
It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that any
product being supplied to Auto Garments which falls into any of the following
categories comply with the batch coding requirements.
Continuity Garments
Every new production run must be identifiable by a batch code, visible on a permanent label attached to the garment. A full fabric test report must be carried out and submitted to Auto for our records every 12 months.
Continuity Garments
In addition to the above requirements, Press Fastener With press fasteners Data Sheets must be submitted to the relevant technologist for each new production run.
Toys
Where a toy is produced in more than one production run or a repeat order is placed on a toy, each production run must be identified by a batch code attached to the toy on a permanent label. A full test report to EN71 must be carried out on each production run and submitted to Auto . Accessories/ Dressing If a style is repeated over more than one production
Up Outfits
run then each production run must have a batch code attached on a ermanent label. Where styles are Where batch coding is required, the batch should be identified with a number indicating the production run, a forward slash and the last two figures of the year e.g. The first run produced in 2004 would be identified as 01/04. The identification must be on a durable label permanently attached to the product without obstructing any other labeling information.
ACCESSORIES, FANCY DRESS & TOY TEST REPORTS
All
accessories, fancy dress product and toys must be tested to the requirements
outlined in Table 7- 9and the reports submitted
following the Bulk Test procedure outlined above.
Where
a repeat order is placed on the above product, each separate production run
must be identified as described
in the Batch Coding section.Every production run must be tested to Auto
requirements for toys. If accessories and fancy dress product are
repeated over more than one season then they must be retested each season.
Where
a product does not fall clearly into any of the areas outlined then the Fabric
Technology Department must be contacted and the testing required will be
confirmed.
*seams should be flat felt because this garment is not wrinkle free we are using closed serge on wrinkle free shirts to improve wrinkle free apperance *slits should be 4″ please review *bring oversize body length to spec *bring all other measurements to spec *please proceed to PSWT sample with above corrections and following pattern sent.
*Flat felt seam is incorrect should be front over back — PLEASE CORRECT
*dart is not updated the angle is wrong — PLEASE CORRECT
*Please send revised sample in Oversize for our review before proceeding to bulk
*Flat felt seam is incorrect should be front over back — PLEASE CORRECT
*bring measurements to spec
*Ok to proceed to production — issued ok production form
*Fit was very nice — VERY GOOD WORK — keep it up for bulk production
*please place side seam labels going towards the back — not the front
*Ok to proceed to production — Ok production form issued
Type of Optical Dilatometer Test : Dimensional Changes in Materials (Expansion and Shrinkage) with temperature Type of materials: Ceramics, Glasses, Carbon Composites, minerals and Polymers Test methods: ASTM E-228, ASTM C-372, ISO 7991 Type of system: Digital, horizontal, single sample, compact, benchtop system Temperature: -100 to 800 °C or higher Measuring system: Fused silica Sample Size (max): 50 mm long x 20 mm diameter LVDT Displacement Range: ±2.50 mm Temperature resolution: 0.05 °C Displacement Resolution: 0.01 microns or better Contact Load: adjustable Temperature Control: User Programmable Heating Rate: 1 to 30°C/minute (programmable at 0.01°C increments) Factory calibration with high purity platinum
Quality of fabric is key to the success of our business. This manual is to help suppliers understand the criteria to determine a fabric to be correct for quality. Suppliers must use the testing manual to select the required tests for product. If you supply fabric which does not meet Standards you will be liable for any returns & loss of profit to our business. We reserve the right to request extra testing at any point in the sampling & sealing process when deemed necessary. WE want to make their customers happy by producing clothing to be as easy as possible to care for. Therefore with this in mind, where possible we expect all product to be machine washable at 40c & tumble dryable.
FABRIC APPROVAL PROCEDURES
TECHNICAL SUBMISSION
Technical
Submission is the term used to describe a fabric at the development stage, a
fabric
which
is being proposed to Matalan but not actually bought yet.
A full physical test report must be submitted in line with the performance requirements. This can be in the form of a test report carried out for another retailer if available to save on testing
costs or from an independent testing house.
The
technical submission must be correct for handle, appearance and finish.
Technical
Approval can only be given when the below is submitted to the Buying Team /
Technologist:
• Fabric Specification Sheet
• Technical Hanger
• Physical Test Report
Upon approval Technical Hangers must be distributed to Garment & Fabric Suppliers
BULK FABRIC SUBMISSION Every fabric must be tested at 1st Bulk as per the required performance standard. Bulk Approval can only be given when the below requirements are submitted to the Buying Team / Technologist. • Bulk Hanger • 1st Bulk Test Report • All Legal Testing ( fibre comp, flammability etc ) Bulk submission is required on the 1st Bulk of each design or colourway. Some departments may require full/part garments to illustrate garment wash/placement etc. Bulk Colour Continuity must be monitored ensuring that each batch is a close match to the bulk hanger. If any batches are off-shade/borderline to the approved 1st Bulk Hanger, a A4 piece clearly labelled with the batch number must be submitted to the Buyer/Technologist. Bulk Shade Bands will need to be submitted on certain product areas. These occur with certain was processes & dye routes e.g. pigment garment dye. 2 copies of each shade band should be sent to the Buying Team for assessment. The bulk shade band should consist of the lightest & darkest points that are deemed commercial against the bulk hanger.
Can test the length, strength, fineness, color and moisture, color characteristics and trash particle content in cotton ,able to determine fineness and maturity properties of fiber
Determine fiber length and tensile properties
Automatic Color Tray or increased sampling for higher throughput
Dual Sampler for increased sampling for higher throughput
Data acquistion system
ust include Standard Calibration Materials
Micronaire Measured by relating airflow resistance Maturity, Calculated using algorithm
itl’I
Length, Upper Halt Mean Length, Uniformity Index, Short Fiber Index Measured optically in a tapered fiber beard which is automatically prepared, Strength and elongation, measured physically by clamping a fiber bundle between 2 pairs of clamps at known distance Moisture content, using conductive moisture probe (Color, Rd (Whiteness), +b (Yellowness), color grade, measured optically by different color
Trash, Particle count. % surface area covered by trash, measured optically by utilizing a digital camera ;Calculation of spinnability of cotton
Fabric Defect Manual
Introduction
Controlling fabric’s quality in large scale Fabric
production facilities has always been a challenging task. Throughout the
production process, there are always new and re-occurring defects that can
unexpectedly appear on the fabric causing production loss and delays.
It is important to realize, however, that most of the
defects can be prevented and/or corrected.
The first and the most important step in taking preventive
or remedial actions is to determine the nature and the cause of the problem.
The ability to make this determination quickly and to take
the appropriate action is an integral part of any Fabric quality control set-up
and can be a great tool for minimizing production loss time and maximizing
productivity.
The following is a summarized review of the most common
defects/problems associated with each area of fabric production process from
yarns to printing.
For each, a brief description, preventive suggestions and
corrective measures are offered.
Additional detailed description and related technical information
are available if required.
General Descriptions, Guidelines, and Recommendations
Knitting Related Defects/Problems
Torque-
Definition and Causes:
This problem which predominantly occurs with single Jersey
fabrics can not easily be seen in the fabric form. However, if the fabric is
constructed with an inherent Torque, once sewn in to garments and after the
first wash a distortion in the side seams position appears.
This is mainly attributed to yarn twist, and the knitting
machine diameter size.
Higher twist levels, finer yarns (36/1, 40/1, 50/1, etc.),
and large diameters normally produce more Torque.
Preventive Suggestions:
With lighter weight fabrics, in order to completely
eliminate Torque, the use of alternate S and Z twist yarn cones on the knitting
machine is recommended.
This, however, is a costly method. The more practical way would
be to use yarns with minimum workable twist levels;
to use smaller diameter machines and finally to knit the fabric with a cut
line.
Corrective Measures:
With fabrics having higher measures of Torque an adjustment
in the marker may be the only solution.
Barre Lines-
See yarn Barre in section 1- G
Needle Lines-
Definition and Causes:
The open vertical lines along the Wales lines in a double
knit structure is normally caused by the mal-function of the needle’s latch,
accumulation of oil-soaked lint and the incorrect alignment of the cam tracks.
Preventive Suggestions:
Regular maintenance and upkeep of the machine elements, and
in particular, replacing the needles on a regular basis, are essential.
Corrective Measures:
For this problem, no corrective measures are available.
Sinker Lines-
Definition and Causes:
The open vertical lines along the Wales lines in a single
knit structure is normally caused by the miss-timing of the Sinker elements, broken
Sinker tips, accumulation of oil-soaked lint and the incorrect alignment of the
cam tracks.
Preventive Suggestions:
Regular maintenance and upkeep of all machine elements is
essential.
Corrective Measures:
For this problem no corrective measures are available.
Loop and Stitch Length Variations-
Definition and Causes:
Certain plain single knit structures, especially those with
looser stitches and at lower tension levels, are more susceptible to stitch
length variation. This can be seen on the fabric as a cluster of irregularly
shaped loops where loops appear to have different lengths.
This is usually caused by the variation in the bending
properties of the yarns.
It could also be due to the variation in the coefficient of
friction between the yarns and the elements with which they come into contact with.
Preventive Suggestions:
The use of Yarn Evenness Tester and yarn with sufficient non-silicone lubricants is strongly recommended.
