meat.e with Standards ASTM / OIN 150 2555 / ISO 3219 ,der MS-R Standards QUO Range From 0.05 to 13 mNm and From 0.005 to 0.8 mNm Digital Viscometer Temperature -SOX to + 300 Y.
uracy / 1 %
ability /- 0.2 %
Digital Viscometer Capacity Iml) 3.100 ml. viscosity Range 3 – 180.000,000 milts. Display Option Viscosity – Speed – Torque – Temperature – Time – Measuring geometry. Level of sensitivity – Date/hour – Choice of viscosity u French/English its cP or mPa s Language
Fabric Submission Procedure
FABRIC QUALITY
All initial samples must be submitted to the relevant Buying Team with two copies of the attached Fabric Quality Submission . Initial samples are often submitted in available quality fabric which is closest for shade etc. to be shown at meetings, it is essential that an example of the correct quality of fabric is also available for approval.
The form must be completed as follows:A swatch of the correct fabric quality large enough to fill the box must be attached to both sheets.
Supplier: The name of the garment supplier
Dept: The Auto Buying Department the style is for
Style Ref: The Auto reference
Description: Description of garment being sampled ( including any other fabrics on product)
Fabric Construction: e.g. Single Jersey, Twill etc.
Fibre Composition Fibre composition of swatch submitted (this must be the same composition as you intend to use in the style).
Yarn Count: The count of the yarn used in the fabric
Weight: The finished weight of the fabric / m2.
Courses/3cm & Wales/3cm: The courses and wales on the finished fabric if knitted
Machine gauge: The gauge of machine the fabric has been knitted on
Ends/inch & Picks/inch: The ends and picks on the finished fabric if woven
Fabric Supplier:Name of the fabric supplier if fabric being bought finished or the name of the supplier if fabric bought greige and commission dyed.
Fabric Dyer: Name of dyer to be used.
Dye Type: e.g. Reactive Dye Method: e.g. Exhaust, Pad, Dip Dye
Finishing Route: e.g. compaction, softener, resin, peach etc.
Base Test: Indicate
in this area whether you have submitted a base fabric test report for this
quality of fabric and whether it has been approved by Auto . The report cover
sheet MUST stipulate if it is a new product / fabric.
If the fabric quality is approved for handle and appearance,
one copy will be signed and returned to the supplier as a quality reference for
this style. The bulk fabric must be of the same quality as this approval.
If at any stage during the development of the style, the
fabric quality is changed, including the fibre composition, then the above process must be repeated and a
swatch of correct quality fabric approved by the buying department.
Development Fabrics
If a fabric is still in development at initial sample stage,
then it must be submitted to the Buying Department using the procedure outlined
above when correct fabric is available before garment production. The Buying
Department will then return the approval, referencing it back to the relevant
contract.
A fabric quality is not fully approved until it has been
approved by the Buying Department for Handle & Appearance, and Fabric
Technology for Base Test.
Established Fabric Qualities
Where a fabric quality is established and has been used for
more than one season for Auto Garments then it should be set up as an Approved
Fabric Quality with the Fabric Technology Department.
One hanger per fabric type in each weight should be submitted to the Fabric Technology department along with fabric specification and full test report. These will be used as a benchmark to measure the forthcoming submissions.
Digital Viscometer- All Approved Fabric hangers will be held in a directory on the Fabric Technology Department for comparison.
To be used for the Time Constant Calculation of time constant of mercury (glass bulb ) thermometer. It uses heating mantle, round bottom flask. oil/water. thermocouples. gl ss bulb thermometers, temperature controller etc
Time Constant Calculation Apparatus Specification
Water Bath.lce Flask, Hot water tank with Heat Plate, Thermocouples & Temperature Sensors, K Type, 1 Type, RID (PT-100)
Control Panel & Software designed in LABVIEW environment to run under any Window platform
Ignoring
the highest 10% and lowest 10% of peaks, determine the mean peak strength, in
grams, for each specimen.
REPORT
The
mean peak strength, in grams, for each specimen, indicating the state of the
specimen (i.e. original or washed).
N.B.This test method has been developed by Technicare Services Auto Garments have adopted this method with their permission and it should not be reproduced in whole or part without prior agreement with Technicare Services.
TEST REPORT SUBMISSION PROCEDURES –BASE TESTS
Base
Fabric Test Reports must be submitted to Auto Garments by e mail at the
following address:
Base
Test Reports are required for all NEW
fabrics which are supplied and testing is carried out on all physical
aspects.
All
reports must be received from the approved test house in PDF Format. Reports
must not be scanned.
A
cover sheet must be attached to the report
If
it is not possible to use the actual form supplied then the supplier must
create their own to the same set out containing the same information.
The
e mail header must contain the following information:
Base Test
Style Number
Season
Agent
Supplier
Department Number
BULK TESTS
Bulk
Fabric Test Reports must be submitted to Auto Garments by e-mail at the
following address:
One style per E-mail
Reports should be submitted as soon as
testing is complete
Failures must be submitted to the Fabrics
Department for approval (send tested pieces where applicable) before despatching.
These must be detailed in the comments section on the attached front cover
sheet.
All
reports must be received from the approved test house in PDF Format, reports
must not be scanned.
A
cover sheet must be attached to the report
If
it is not possible to use the actual form supplied then the supplier must
create their own to the same set out containing the same information.
The
e mail header must contain the following information:
Bulk Test
Style Number
Season
Supplier
Department Number
Approval of the test report will be sent by e mail. A report is not approved until this confirmation has been received for Time Constant Calculation
Pressure Gauges Calibration – To be used as a calibration apparatus which is used for the calibration of bourdcn pressure gauges. It is equipped with PID controller, compressor, needle valve, solenoid valves, vtrety valve, digital/master gauge, bourdon pressure gauges, transducer, storage tank etc. It uses air as a gas whose pressure is controlled at any specific desired value and the gauges are accordingly calibrated. Measuring devices for pressure and vacuum Ittube and indined tube manometers
Plastic syringe generates test pressures in the millibar range Bourdon tube manometer: 0…60mbar U-tube manometer: 0…500mmWC
Inclined tube manometer: 0…500mmWC Pressure Transmitter with Digital Display: 0 to 4 bar Calibration Gauge: 0 to 4 bar Calibration Same: Pressure Pump Hand Operated with Built in Safety Pressure Control: Regulator with Valve Data Acquisition Unit
PEEL BOND STRENGTH
SCOPE of pressure gauges calibration
To
determine the mean force required to separate the components of bonded fabrics.
PRINCIPLE
Fused
components are separated and pulled apart at a specified rate. The mean force
required is determined from a peak recording chart or computer programme.
Chart
speed – suitable speed selected to define individual
peaks
Force
range – suitable range to give good resolution for the
given specimen.
Neoprene rubber-faced jaws – Jaw faces 25mm x 40mm.
Scissors
Ruler
CONDITIONING & TESTING ATMOSPHERE
Specimens
are conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65 +/- 2% rh and a temperature of
20 +/-2 degrees C. for a minimum of 16 hours. Testing must take place in a
conditioned atmosphere.
SAMPLE PREPARATION
Specimens
are to be tested in the original and after wash state. Cut three specimens 25mm
wide x minimum 100mm long from each direction of the fabric.
TEST PROCEDURE
Manually separate the two fused layers to a distance of 25mm.
Clamp one component in the lower jaw and the other in the upper jaw.
Pressure Gauges Calibration – Activate the cross head at a rate of 100mm/minute for a minimum of 60 mm.
Watlow Temperature Controller – To be used to control temperature. It is fitted with PID controller, pumps, valves, heaters, bi-metallic gauge, k-type thermocouples, service tank, process tank, stirrer, radiator etc. It uses water as a liquid whose temperature is controlled at any specific desired value inside the process tank. sss
Temperature Process Station Specification
Fixed Supply DC: +12V, +15V, -15V & +24V
Process Vessel: 5 Liter approx.
Storage tank: 20 Liter approx.
Heater Element: 200W
Water Grculation Pump: 10 l/min
Piping: PVC
Thermal Sensors: K-Type Thermocouple, PT100, Bi-metall c Direct Reading
Valves: Drain Valve Manual Type
Level Sensor: Float Switch with LED indicator
Flow Sensor: Rotameter Direct Reading Type Cooling Watlow Temperature Controller : Auto Control with PID Cooling Apparatus: Heat Exchanger with Fan
Operation Mode: Internal & External
Watlow Temperature Controller Sensor Interface: DC Amplifier with Offset and Gain Control
ON/OFF Control: Comparator with Hysteresis Control
Analog Source: 0 – ±10V
PIO Controller: Proportional, Integral & Differential Control with Feedback Pump Driver: DC to PWM Driver with DC Level Offset Control
Heater Driver: DC to PWM Driver with DC Level Offset Control Accessories: Power Cord, 2mm Patch Cord, Experiment Manual,
Data Acquisition Unit PC Interface Software
Chemical Requirements
Alkyl Phenol Ethoxylates (APEO’s) – alternatives MUST be
used.
Phthalate – It is Auto aim to remove all phthalates from clothing so alternatives should be used. Limits are set at < 0.1%.
Chrome VI – All leather products / goods should be tested for compliance against 60ppm max.
Sulphur Dyes – should only be used where the mill holds an Oekotex Certificate for the process. Please contact the Fabric Technology team for clarification.
Azo Dyes – All products must comply to the ‘The Controls on Certain Azo Dyes and “Blue Colourant” Regulations 2003’.
Pressure Process Station -Used to control pressure. It is fitted with PID controller, compressor, needle valve, motorized valve, solenoid valves, safety valve, bourdon pressure gauges. transducer, storage tank, process tank etc. It uses air as a gas whose pressure is controlled at any specific desired value inside the process tank.
Pressure Process Station Specification
Fixed Supply DC: +12V, +15V, -15V & +24V
Vessel: 5 Liter approx.
Piping: Plastic
Pressure Sensor: Manometer Direct Reading, Strain Gauge
Valves: Manual, Solenoid, Motorized valve, No Return, Safety set at 2.0 Bar
Pressure Sensor Interface: Differential Amplifier with Offset and Gain Control
ON/OFF Control: Comparator with Hysteresis Control
Analog Source: 0 — +10V, 0 — nOV
PID Controller: Proportional, Integral & Differential Control with Feedback
Pump Driver: DC to PWM Driver with DC Level Offset Control
Solenoid Valve Driver: ON/OF Control with Driver Manua & auto
Accessories: Power Cord, 2mm Patch Cord, Experiment Manual,
Data Acquisition Unit
PC Interface Software
BULK FABRIC
Two swatches from finished state Bulk Fabric, dyed or
printed, must be submitted to the relevant Buying Department . Each swatch must fill the box and contain one
full pattern repeat where applicable.
A full Bulk Test report must be submitted at the same time
to the Fabric Technology Department.
Bulk fabric will be assessed for: Appearance
Shade
Handle
Print
Quality where applicable
One sheet will be returned to the supplier and signed if
approved against the above criteria.
Bulk fabric is not fully approved until the Bulk Fabric Test report has also been approved.
SELF APPROVAL OF TEST REPORTS
Suppliers may be authorised by Auto Garments to self approve
their own test reports.
Such authorisation will be instigated by Auto Garments on
the basis of the suppliers historical performance with regard to testing.
The authorisation can be withdrawn at the discretion of Auto
Garments at any time.
Pressure Process Station – Auto will carry out random due diligence testing on deliveries to ensure that fabric performance is consistent with the reports submitted. If the garment is found to be inconsistent with the test report and likely to result in customer returns – Auto Garments reserve the right to recall the product from store and return to the vendor at their cost.
Level Process Station -Used to control of liquid level It is fitted with PID controller, pump, valves, valiet;le•vired flow meter, DP transmitter, feed tank, process tank etc It uses water as a liquid whose level is controlled at any specific desired value inside the process tank…
Level Process Station Specification
fixed Supply DC •12V. +15V & •24V
Vessel- Dual 5 Liter approx
Water Circulation Pump 10 l/min
Piping: Plastic
Level Sensor: LVOT, Float Switch
Flow Sensor: Direct Reading
Valves: Drain, Solenoid, Needle
Level Sensor Interface: Precision Rectifier with Offset and Gain Control
ON/OFF Control: Zomparator with Hysteresis Control
Analog Source: 0— ±10V
PIO Controller: Proportional, Integral & Differential Control with Feedback
Pump Driver: DC to PWM Driver with DC Level Offset Control
Solenoid Valve Driver: ON/OF Control with Driver
Accessories: Power Cord, 2mm Patch Cord, Experiment Manual
Data Acquisition Unit
PC Interface Software
Process Selection
For disperse dyeing the procedure is same in laboratory but in cotton
there are different method due to the properties of the fabric which become
uneven especially light shades due to small quantity of dyes to be distributed
to the fabric. Following procedures are:
standard process
isothermal
migration
rapid
rapid migration
portion wise salt (HT) migration
For Disperse Dyeing
Chemicals and auxiliaries in disperse
dyeing in all brands are similar and dyeing temperature mostly is 1320C.
The following list of dyes/chemicals/auxiliaries and bi-products are prohibited during the production of any goods supplied to Auto . Read about Chemical Consumption for Dyeing Fabric. Please check the list with all suppliers and return the signed sheet to acknowledge compliance:
The lists below included the most common chemicals
categories used on textile that may be used for toys. The list is not exclusive
and other products will be added as knowledge increases in the area.
Banned aromatic amines as defined in Appendix point 43 of
Annex A of EU Directive 76/769/EEC
4-Aminobiphenyl
Benzidine
4-Chlor-o-toluidine
2-Naphthylamine
O-Aminoazotoluene
2-Amino-4-Nitrotoluene
p-Chlor-aniline
4-Methoxy-m-phenylenediamine
4,4’ Diaminodiphenylmethane
3,3’Dichlorobenzidine
3,3’Dimethoxybenzidine
3,3’Dimethylbenzidine
3,3’Dimethyl 4,4’diaminodiphenylmethane
2-Methoxy-5-Methylaniline
4,4’Methylene-bis-(2-Chloraniline)
4,4’Oxydianiline
4,4’Thiodianiline
o-Toluidine
4-Methyl 1,3-Phenylenediamine
2,4,5-Trimethylaniline
O anisidine
2,4-Xylidine
2,6-Xylidine
Colorants, Dyes and Processing Chemicals
Product
Levels
Disperse Dyes suspected of causing sensitisation
CI Disperse Blue 1, 3, 7, 26
CI Disperse Orange 1, 3, 55, 74
CI Disperse Red 1, 11, 15, 17, 151
CI Disperse Yellow 7, 23, 55.
Not to be used
REACTIVE DYES KNOWN TO CAUSE SENSITISATION IN INDUSTRY
Levafix brilliant yellow E36
Drimaren brilliant yellow K-3GL
Cibachrome brilliant scarlet 32
Drimaren brilliant blue K-BL
Lanosol yellow 4G
