Dimensional Stability to Laundering
All fabrics (Knits & woven)
Length: ±3.0%
Width:
±3.0%
AATCC TM 135
TP 35 or
TP 36
Spirality
Single Weft knits & French Terry
(E.g. Acceptable for a 50 cm garment, if
before wash=7, after wash=3, Total =10)
51- 75cm garment length
Greater than 75cm garment length
Total Spirality: 9º max
Before Wash: 6º max
After wash: 4º max
Total Spirality: 8º max
Before wash: 5º max
After wash: 3º max
ISO 16322-2
TP 30
Fabric Weight (g /m²)
As Specified, Tolerance ±5%
ISO 3801
TP 20
Knit Fabrics -Pilling
All weft knits including Polar Fleecy
But excluding 100% Cotton,
Cotton/Elastane blends and all fabrics with a Brushed/Pile surface on garment
face side
After washing:
Rating: 3-4
ISO 12945-1
TP 60
Knit Fabrics -Stretch Properties
– To be met for all fabric fibre
compositions including elastane blends
Knits
Fleecy (Brushed & Unbrushed)
French Terry
Ponte de Roma
Length Stretch: 20% min
Residual Ext: 10% max
Width Stretch: 60% min
Residual Ext: 30% max
Length Stretch: 15% min
Residual Ext: 10% max
Width Stretch: 30% min
Residual Ext: 10% max
Note: These requirements are guidelines
only, the stretch properties obtained and approved during the sampling stage
and fit approval shall be used as the reference standard.
BS EN 14704-1
(modified – single load cycle only,
residual determined after 60s.
30N load required)
TP 50 /TP 51
Cont. Mandatory Physical Test Requirements
EVALUATION
MINIMUM
REQUIREMENTS
TEST
PROCEDURES
TEST
METHODS
Pilling – Woven Fabric
(Martindale Test Method)
Synthetic & Synthetic Blends only
After Wash
Rating: 3-4
ISO 12945-2
(modified- self fabric to self fabric)
Is the company uses any new software? (e.g., Tally software for accounting purposes and in-house developed customized software for inventory management)
Are there any changes in the infrastructure? sss
(e.g., The total floor space of the factory is 600,000 sq. ft. within a 3 storied factory building. The building has 2 exit stairs including 2 fire exit stairs.)
The company has been using…………………………… diesel generator with a capacity of 5000 KVA.
Please update the machineries list if ay addition or deduction has been made?
(e.g., The total number of machineries are ………………..(647) sets including ………….(267) sets Single Needle Lock Stitch machine, …………………….(68) sets ……………………(Two) Needle Lock Stitch machine, ………………………….(13) sets of Two Needle Chain Stitch machine, Overlock machine of ………………………………….(64) sets, Cloth Drill machine of ………………(1) set, cutting machine ……………..(9)sets, Fusing machine (1) sets etc.)
Are there any changes in the buyer list?
(e.g., Li & Fung, Tesco, Nishimatsua, Debenhams, Joe Fresh, Macy’s, Bon Marche, Reitmans, VF Asia etc.)
The details provided on this form will be used to evaluate your suitability to provide goods or services to Shop Direct Group . All questions must be answered, please do not leave blanks. You may use None, Not Applicable or N/A where appropriate Unless otherwise instructed the answers must relate to the business specifically named in section 1
Your response is being provided to Shop Direct Group and will be treated in strict confidence and used for the purpose of supplier evaluation only. Read also Melt Index Tester
Conclusion
Based on the information provided on this Universal Wear Tester form the relevant supplier agreement pack will be issued to your company.
In case of wash garments, Shrinkage Tester plays a vital role. There will be different pattern for diff shrinkage. As per color family, we also assign shrinkage family to each color. Shrinkage Segregation Tester will be done for vertical and horizontal respectively.
Take a swatch of 12” x 12” and mark both side with 10” X 10” and wash this.
Shrinkage Segregation
Measure the wash swatch with shrinkage scale and derive the vertical and horizontal shrinkage.
We assign the shrinkage family in four groups.
GROUP TYPE %
A VERTICAL 1 – 3%
B VERTICAL 3.5 – 6.5%
C HORIZONTAL 1 – 4.5%
D HORIZONTAL 5 – 9%
So we make a report for each group and forward it to store so that it can issue fabric accordingly.
SHRINKAGE SEGREGATION
In case of wash garments, shrinkage plays a vital role. There will be different pattern for diff shrinkage. As per color family, we also assign shrinkage family to each color. Shrinkage will be done for vertical and horizontal respectively. In general, shrinkage guideline is divided into four groups as follows:
A VERTICAL 1 – 3%
B VERTICAL 3.5 – 6.5%
C HORIZONTAL 1 – 4.5%
D HORIZONTAL 5 – 9%
Each group issued one by one only to cutting section.
However as per shrinkage, Technical GM may change the groups.
Technical meeting
Technical GM sends mail to respective concerned people about the arrangement of technical meeting prior to production.
All the concerned people should be present in the meeting , regardless of whatever work they have , to discuss about the critical issues concerned with the particular style.
The meeting is done with I.E, PM, Technical manager, General Managers, Quality assurance managers, Line Supervisors, Line Managers, washing manager and maintenance manager.
Sewing line setting
First thing is that, the line managers should be very clear with the buyer approved tech pack and also with the technical details given by the technical GM.
They also have to ensure that the buyer approved sample matches with buyer approved tech pack and also with the technical details given by Technical GM in concern with measurements, construction, folder attachments, any special artwork etc.
Then they also have to check all the machines are set and operations are carried as per tech pack.
Line managers should ensure that all notches, fusing and panel have correct placements.
Trail run
As a process of trail run, 50 pieces are manufactured initially with all the specifications as per the approved sample.
Conclusion
Technical manager should ensure that printing and also the embroidery part have to be included in the garment as per the approved sample for the trail run itself. End of Shrinkage Tester topics
Textile yarn tester is test equipment which test textile yarn mohair yarns, polyester yarn, yeoman yarns for measuring optimum quality as these are quality tested by efficient auditors on various parameters. Only after they are assured of the quality aspect of these products, then only the professionals dispatch about the products to the market.
Specifications of Reel Wraps Yarn Tester for Textile Yarn:
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name”]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value”]
Product Category
Yarn
Machine Category
Yarn Testing Machine
Product Name
Reel wraps for Yarn Length Testing
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
AC220V 50Hz 100W
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Test yarn fray
6 frays
Reel circumference
1000mm (metric system)(YG086D)
Spacing of yarn
60mm
Girth of yarn frame
1000 ±1mm
DimensionsL*W*H
780 mm×660mm × 480mm
Rev of reel
25-300 RPM (numeric pre-settable)
Interval of spindle
65mm
Number of wrap
2~9999 Rev(pre-settable)
Programmable stop
1~9 rev(pre-settable)
Reeling pre-tension
0~100cN (pre-settable)
Instrument weight
50kg
Description
This Electronic Reel wraps is designed to produce skeins of yarn of a pre determined length and number of turns for count and strength testing
What is Mohair Yarn Testing:
Mohair yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material. Yarn results are essential for both estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. The important characteristics of yarn being tested are described below shortly-
Yarn twist
Linear density
Yarn strength
Yarn elongation
Yarn evenness
Yarn hairiness etc.
Twist Yarns:
Twist of yeoman yarns are called turns which is twisting the fiber.
Linear Density of Yarn:
The excellence of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear thickness. There are a amount of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are categorised as follows
Direct system
Indirect System
Checking More Testing:
Uneven shade
Oil spot
Neps
Crease mark
Machine Stoppage mark
Listing
Line mark
Pick missing
Double yam
Dead cotton
Bowing
Fly yam contamination
Experiment Name: To measure the wash fastness.
The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these changes when subjected to particulates of conditions. It follows that color fastness must be specified in terms of these changes and expressed in terms of the magnitude.
Color-fastness to wash:
Wash-fastness is perhaps the most common once to be carried out: It is necessary to bear in mind that there are two types of wash
Domestic wash
Industrial wash
Which can be carried out with different of severity and for this reason there are 5 normalized types of with soap and at least 16 normalized washing tests for domestic and commercial laundering using a standard detergent.
The different characteristics are indicated in the table below:
Characteristics of test for fastness to washing with soap
Now we shall describe washing test no. 1 as an example to explain the mode of the operation.
If the sample adjusted to the test is fabric a rectangular measuring I0x4 cm- is cut out and placed the multifibre of the same size. The, composite specimen is placed in a container of the sample dyeing machine along with a soapy solution with a liquor ratio 1:50. The machine is started and the sample is streed 30 min
Buyer’s Requirements:-
ECHO SCOURING: ISO 105 C06 A2S 40’C
DECATHLON ISO 105 C06 60-C
CARRE FOUR ISO 105 C06
WELL L L ORD ISO 105 C06 A2S 40-C
EURO CENTRA ISO 105 C06 A2S 40’C
Required materials:-
Sample size 10×2 cm.
Multi fiber at 10×2 cm
ECE detergent (WOB)
Sodium per-borate
5, Distilled water
Normal cold water
Steel balls
Required instrument:
Sample dyeing machine
pH meter (where necessary)
Scissor
Stitch machine
Procedure:
Cut sample & multifibre at I Ox2 cm and then Stitch
4 g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1~ I Sodium-pr borate put in distilled water & cooled at 20C and measure p (where necessary)
Run the program in the following way:
Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
Dry at 60C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be more than 150C.
Experiment Name :To measure the color-fastness to water.
Buyer’s Reguirements :
ECHO SCOURING: ISO 105: 1996 EOI
DECATHLON: ISO 105: 1996 EOI
CARRE FOUR: ISO 105: 1996 E02
WELL LORD ISO 105: 1996 EOI
EURO CENTRA: ISO 105: 1996 EO, I
Procedure:
Sample size: Cut the specimen & the multifibre at 10×2 cm & sewn together.
Solution: Wet in distilled water at room temperature & socked but only for CAREE FOUR wet in 30g/l Nacl Solution at room temperature & socked.
Place it in acrylic resin plates & put the weight on to the plates.
Keep it in oven and kept the temperature at 3 7± 02’c for 4 hrs.
Open the specimen and dry it in the air not exceeding 60’c temperature.
Assess the staining & shade change with grey scale.
Experiment Name :To measure the fastness to perspiration acid and alkaline.
Buyer’s Reguirements:-
LDECATHLON: ISO 105: 1996 E04
CARRE FOUR: ISO 105: 1996 E04
WELL LORD ISO 105: 1996 E04
EURO CENTRA: ISO 105: 1996 E04
Experiment Name: To measure the fastness to rubbing (Dry & Wet).
Buyer’s Requirements:-
L ECHO SOURCHING: ISO 105 X 12
2 DECATH-LON ISO 105 X 12
CARREFOUR ISO 105 X 12
WELL LORD ISO 105 X 12
EURO CENTRA ISO 105 X 12
Procedure:
Rubbing cloth: Take rubbing cloth at 5×5 cm size
Sample size: Take the specimen at 14×5 cm at wales wise and course wise
Put the rubbing cloth on to the grating and stag by steel wire and run ten times manually and assess the rubbing cloth with grey scale.
Place the rubbing cloth on the water and socked and squeeze. Place the wet rubbing cloth on to the grating and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually. then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth by grey scale for wet rubbing.
Experiment Name: To measure the pilling of the given fabric.
Please not that all test specimens should be conditioned at 65 ± 5 R.H. 20 20′ c temperature. For 16 hrs & 2 hrs for polyester fabric. If customer demand then prior to test specimen should be washed at least 15 min & then dry and then try to start for testing.
Procedure:
Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5 cm & benchmarks should be 10 cm by using template.
Then sewn the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in to the tube a moulded polyurethane tube.
Then four tubes are placed in a box and start 60 ± 02 rev/min for at least 5 hours or according to the buyer requirements.
Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimens at the view cabinet and compare with standard photograph.
Experiment Name: To measure the dimensional stability (Shrinkage & spirality Buyer’s Requirements :
Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioning before starting test.
Cut the sample 50×50 cm & benchmark should be 35×35 cm. Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.
Put sample in washing machine in the following ways for different buyer:
ECHO: Gentle Wash Temp 40 ± 3C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
DECATHLON: Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
iii. CAREE FOUR: Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
WELL LORD: According to care label if mentioned or Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
EURO CENTRA: According to care label if mentioned or Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
SQURE: Gentle Wash Temp 50 ± 3′ C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin.) total 30 min.
Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is flat dry.
Shrinkage test calculation
Spirality test calculation :
Suppose,
A = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash
B = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
Experiment Name: To measure the fastness to light with the Megaosol light fastness tester Procedure:
Cut the four pieces of test specimens according to the length & width wise and attached with the specimen holder.
Then the holder set in to the Megasol light fastness tester.
Then the experiment continued at 72 hours according to the buyer’s requirement.
After 72 hours later the specimen taken from the light fastness tester.
Then the test specimen compare with the Blue scale or computer.
Experiment Name: To measure the GSM of the fabric by GSM cutter.
Procedure:
Cut the fabric with the GSM cutter (gram per square inch).
Weight the fabric with the electric balance.
Suppose,
The weight of the fabric 2.51 gm. That means the GSM of the fabric is 251. Because when we cut the fabric with the GSM cutter then we get I from the 100 meter from the square meter.
Experiment Name: To measure the CPI & MTI with the magnifying glass setting
multiplier.
Procedure:
Take the fabric& marking I inch with the ball pen according to the course& wales wise
of a knitted fabric.
Then set the marking point with the multiplier scale & counting the CPI & WPI of knitted fabric in l inch.
Recipe Calculation:
Dyeing solution (all classes of reactive dyes):
Water: 840 CC
Cibacel DBC: 60 CC
Ciba flow C: 20 CC
Ergasol CO: 40 CC
Lioptan R/G: 40 CC
Total : 1000 CC
Dyeing solution (all classes of reactive dyes):
Water : 880 CC
Invadine DIF/DP: 40 CC
AB45: 80 CC
Total: 1000 CC
L:R = 1:8
Fabric weight: 5 gin
Soda ash solution: 10 % (Prepared in to lab)
Soap solution: (Prepared in the lab)
Cibacron R = 1 gm/l
Cibacel DBC = 0. 5 gm /l
L: R = 1:20
Acetic acid = 0. 5 gm/l
Textile Yarn Strength And Elongation:
Breaking strength and elongation is important factors for representing the performance of the polyester yarn.
Single end strength
Skein strength for reel wraps
[1] Thambi Durai, B.Tech. Textile Technology, Park College of Engineering and Technology, Kaniyur-India