Crinkle machine is used for squeezing the garments. First time we apply resin on pacific area of garments then squeeze the garments of that area at high temperature at Pacific Time. Crinkle is the process by this are squeeze the garments at front and back knee area. This process is done by crinkle machine or by manually clipping of specific area. First time we have to spray the resin on the marked area then clipping the garments and put into curing oven at 150c at specific time.
3-D crinkle
This is the 3D effect of crinkle. This effect is found by the special treatments of garments. First we have to spray resin on the 3D area then making 3D with help of pattern then it put into oven for curing.
Heat pressing : Heat pressing is used to get permanent pleats of garments. First we spray resin on specific area of garments then pressing by heat press then we will get permanent pleats.
What is 3-D Crinkle for Washing?
Some Finding of Washing Laboratory
No timely calibration of laboratory equipment, such as light box and button pull test equipment. Calibrated and expiry date should be displayed on the equipment.
No on site laboratory available to perform basic testing such as washing shrinkage etc. No light box.
Light box should be surrounded by a curtain of black fabric, if not kept in a separate dark room.
There should be one light box in the goods in/fabric inspection area and one in the cutting room.
SOP of button pull testing should be displayed near the machine.
Button pull testing required on each order (mens- and childrenswear).
Button pull test should be carried out every 2 hours and records kept accordingly. Ideal would be to make a mock-up with the same style same construction fabric to avoid damage of bulk order garments.
All test records (fabric/accessories/garments) should be kept in a production file.
Merchandising team need to discuss results with production team.
Results of laboratory tests (3rd party) are kept in the merchandising department and are not communicated to the production/quality department.
Garment & sweater panel wash test records and references found inconsistent with production records.
Permanent Crinkle (Baked Effects)
Effect: 3D creases on the garments
Process: A chemical called resin is applied to the garment . The garment is put in an oven and heated (the process is called curing or baking). The heat makes the crinkles permanent.
What is Crinkle
Advantages: Natural looking and worn look.
Disadvantages: Fabric tensile strength will be less where the whiskers are done, so fabric might tear. To prevent this the resin should not be used on too thin or weak fabrics. Ring mark might appear where the resin is added, depending on the colour of the garment.
Summery
To prevent this the resin can be applied to the whole garment, but then the garment will be stiffer. Crinkle Machine is used in Textile industry
It is not sand machine actually it is dummy garments are covered on dummy. Then take air pressure and process have done .We have to take proper air pressure , otherwise crease mark will come .
Hand sand is very important dry process now a day’s .This process is done at dry condition. For remove the color from specific area. Maximum garments we have to do this process because sand blasting is now banned. It is done by manually with abrasive paper on specific area. At first we have to making the garments then put on dummy and scrapped. After this process quality checked done and go for first wash.
Sand wash:
Effect: To get an all over faded, worn look and hairy surface on the garments. Is used on light weight twill, canvas and poplin.
Process: A chemical is added in the washing machine, and wash is done in high temperature. Though the name is sand wash, no sand is used in this process.
Advantages: You will get little hairy surface for softer hand feel and for look.
Disadvantages: The result will be too hairy on some fabrics.
This process is done by gun with the help of air flow.
This process is done by manually with the help of abrasive paper.
Metal can be found sometimes.
No possibilities to found metal.
Process is faster.
Process is lengthy.
Harmful of environment.
No harmful of environment
Production high.
Production slow.
Evenness on surface.
Sometimes uneven.
Easy to control
Difficult to control.
Whisker
Whisker is most important dry process for denim garments. Whisker is done making a pattern and put on the garments then remove color from pattern area. After wash we can see the pattern mark. It is one kind of design on garments.
Whisker
Effect: To get a worn effect at for example crotch, hollow of the knees (back knees) on trousers and elbow joint on jackets.
Process: Often made manually by sandpaper or with sandblast using a template. Another method of doing this effect is to use laser (see A8).
Advantages: Its hand made, so it looks natural and different from garment to garment, as oppose to laser. It is also cheaper than laser in countries with low labor cost.
Disadvantages: Since it is handmade the look can be too uneven from garment to garment and result in rejections.
Whiskers
Whisker are two types depends on process :
Manual whisker : This whisker is done by manually with the help of pattern. On denim garments have done it by abrasive paper.
Laser whisker : This whisker is done by laser machine. First time we have to make design in the Photoshop illustrator then it insert into laser machine and fix the intensity and impose on the garments according to marking and burn the indigo.
Sand Machine
After wash the burned indigo will remove and whisker will see. This whisker production is more but the tint absorb is uneven. Sand Machine is very complex machine
Pressing machine is used for pressing the garments by heat and it make permanent palette. In this machine we used steam as heat. First press the garments take steam to reaction of resin.
Abrasive paper
This paper which is used for scrapping the garments is called abrasive paper . This paper has so many grade. In washing plant we used some of the grade. Like 320,420,620. This serial is based on the power of the paper. If the number is less power is more .If the number is high power is less.
RESISTANCE TO ABRASIVE PAPER OF COATED GOLF BALLS
SCOPE:
This In House Test Method describes the method of test in order to determine the abrasive resistance of coated golf balls, using pilling boxes modified with course abrasive paper.
PRINCIPLE
The correct number of test specimens are to be prepared and tested as specified within this test method in order to achieve a performance assessment of the product/fabric as described within the scope.
EQUIPMENT:
ICI pilling boxes lined with standard cork 3mm thick, with coarse abrasive paper attached to the cork lining. (Speed 30rpm reverse tumble every 100 revs).
Roll double sided tape.
CONDITIONING
The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% Relative Humidity (RH) +/- 2% and 20°C +/- 2°C for a minimum of 16 hours. All tests should also be carried out in this atmosphere.
HEALTH & SAFETY
Not applicable.
PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS/MATERIALS
6.1 Cut six (6) squares 9” x 9” of coarse abrasive paper and line reverse with double sided tape.
6.2 Remove backing from tape and attach all squares to the cork lining inside the box.
Carry out the test in the conditioned atmosphere.
TEST PROCEDURE
Before commencing test, ensure that new abrasive paper is in the box.
7.1 Place the four balls into the pilling box. Close and secure the lid.
7.2 Reverse tumble the samples (balls) in the box for a total of 1,800 revolutions (1 hour) reversing every 100 revs. Examine at 100 revs, 1,000 revs and end at 1,800 revs.
ASSESSMENT/RESULTS OF TESTED SPECIMENS
Grade the balls against the standards already prepared.
Rate each sample using the grades as follows:
* No change in print appearance/texture of ball
* Slight change in print appearance/texture of ball
* Moderate change in print appearance/texture of ball
* Severe change in print appearance/texture of ball
* Complete change in print appearance/texture of ball.
Summery
REPORTING OF RESULTS. Record the grades as above.. Report the results after 100 revs, 500 revs, 1,000 revs and 1,800 revs. Pressing Machine is used in garments factory
Industrial Sandblaster is used for removing the color from garments sand is directly hit on the garments surface by air pressure. Then color is cut from surface. But now a day’s buyer is not approved this process due to environment & health harm full. This is the process that also applied for removing the color. This process is done by air flow gun with the help of sand. The high pressure sand is applied on the garments specific area and color will reduce. But this process has some disadvantages so that this process is banned. This process is done at dry condition of garments.
What is Washing?
Normally we know about washing is cleaning. But in textile world washing carry a wide meaning. Now a day’s washing carry an important role in this section. If you can make garments easily but you cannot give the proper look without washing. In textile language washing means making shade, dry process, dyeing and so many processes according to requirement.
Depending on shade we washed the garments as dark wash, medium wash and light wash. To achieve this shade we know about enzyme wash, enzyme bleached, garments wash, silicon wash, acid wash, rinse wash, tie/bag wash, sand wash etc.
In the washing process we used so many dry processes also this dry process actually applied on denim garments. We know this process as whisker, hand sand, sand blasting, pp spray, grinding, tagging, crease mark, crinkle, 3D crinkle, bleached spot, pp spot, seam marking, pocket marking etc.
At first based on one standard we go for development. If the development sample is ok then it will approved. Finally we start bulk wash based on standard. This section is very important part garments trade. Now a day’s we cannot think a nice garments without washing process.
Process: A mechanical process done by spraying aluminum oxide or sand on the garment with high pressure.
Advantages: Can be done on stitched areas like over pockets for example.
Disadvantages: On denim the fade out look can look flat. The reason is that due to the high pressure the sand comes in between the twill lines and fades the color there too.
Cellulase complex based on selected enzymes, for biopolishing of cellulosic substrate & garment washing.Treatment of articles of cellulosic fabric with Bactosol ACG liq improves the wearing comforts and is suitable for fashion effects due to its versatile action. It can be applied for variety of treatment
BACTOSOL ACG liq
Treatment of articles of cellulosic fabric with Bactosol ACG liq improves the wearing comforts and is suitable for fashion effects due to its versatile action. It can be applied for variety of treatments.
Production of a used or old fashioned look by modifying the textile surface .
Works basically on all cotton garments, Tencel,denims, knits, cotton &their blends.
Permanent, soft handle on heavy, thick qualities and articles with rough surface.
Facilitating the removal of dead / immature cotton and reduction of any fibre hairs on the surface (less tendency to pilling).
Enzymatic desizing of CMC (Carboxyl Methyl Cellulose) derivatives.
Peach-Skin & Bio-touch effects.
Properties & Applications
Appearance Brownish liquid.
Chemical Character Enzymes strains, based on stabilized cellulase in buffered mediu
Bactosol ACG Liq. Conc. shows best action at pH 5 & temp. 50 deg C to 55 deg C.
Process -sequence for Denims.
For Over-Dyed Denims
Fabric: Raw Blue Denim
1. Desizing :
0.05 to 0.1 ml/l Sandozin NITI Liq.
0.75 to 1.5%owm Bactosol TKI Liq
pH-6.0 , temperature 52 deg C.time-25 min.
2. Bleach
3. Neutralise & Rinse.
4. Diresul Dyeing
5. Bio-wash
Adjust temp. to 52 degC.& pH to 5.0. with Sirrix 2UD.IN.
Add Bactosol ACG liq 0.5 to 1.0% owm.
Run for 45 min to 75 min.
Hot Rinse.
6. Softening
Ceranine PNLI Liquid-2 to 3 %
Tumble for 20 min at 40C & pH-5.5
Biopolishing for Cotton Fabrics & their Blends.
Bactosol ACG liq can be incorporated just before finishing stage in high value cotton goods ( for e.g.shirtings) by giving it a treatment in Jet Dyg. machine to give value-addition through better surface-feel & appearance.
Recipe: 0.5 to 1 gpl Bactosol ACG liq
pH = 5, temperature 52 degC.
Time = 60 to 90 min.
M : L = 1: 10
Biopolishing of knits
Clubbing Bactosol ACG liq ( 0.5 to 0.75 % owf ) with Imerol PCJ & Imacol C liq in the protonic pretreatment
stage of Bio-bleach process ( Clariant’s process for cellulosics ) will lead to better surface fibre removal.
Many of their dyestuffs, pigments and chemicals are patented by Clariant Ltd or its affiliates in numerous industrial countries.
Trademark registered by Clariant Ltd or Clariant GmbH in numerous countries.
Trademark licensed to Clariant Ltd in numerous countries.
Manufacturer’s registered trade mark
The signs and + appear only at the first mention of the product.
Conclusion
The information and recommendations presented here were compiled with the utmost care, but cannot be extended to cover every possible case. They are intended to serve as non-binding guidelines and must be adapted to the prevailing conditions for Bactosol
Written By – Dr. Stef, CTO, Lorel Chemical co. Ltd, New York, USA
By simple chromatography filter paper the levelling properties of a product for direct or reactive dyes can be checked in a very short time.
Preparation of the test :
A circular glass, i.e. a watch glass, (A) is filled up to the half with the same composition as the dye bath, but without the dyes.
The dyes (Yellow, Red and Blue plus a combination of Y, R and B ) are drawn on a quarter of a circle at about 2 cm. from the center (C) of a filter paper with 15 cm. * (B).
A piece of filter paper is twisted and inserted into the center (C) of the filter paper (A). The dyeing bath is then coming up by capillary through the center of the filter paper.
From the moment the dyeing bath enters the center of the filter paper A at the point C the chromatography should run 20 minutes before taking away the filter paper C.
Evaluation
The first evaluation is visual but it is possible to prepare a diagram by measuring the distance from the center to the last ring observed on the Chromatography filter paper.
Written By - Dr. Stef, CTO, Lorel Chemical co. Ltd, New York, USA
