Detailed Study of Buyers Sample Fabric Requirement-Construction & Wash Requirement & Standards Development Prepared Leg mocks (minimum-5) and develop the wash as/std., after achieve the final wash a sample leg mock submit to customer/Asmara . (Final wash recipe should be attached with leg mock ) Developed the washes in Garment & actual fabric After rcvd the comments and approval on leg mock gmts need to wash using actual fabric. If gmts not as/std. need to call out buyer
Bulk Fabric Test & Control Bulk production fabric need to use for gmts samples and FPT & GPT test conduct for all the colors . Fit & Wash Reference Sample Based on wash comments wash and submit the sample/Leg mock to buyer/Asmara for approvals Wash Sample Copy /Counter Leg mocks/Gmts submitted to buyers for approval keep in Asmara Office (attached wash recipe with unwashed fabric swatch
fabric control Blanket Washing Machine Activity Before bulk gmts production shade blanket need to wash as per approved buyers washing std. , shade report send to all the concern deptt. for bulk gmt production Size Set washing Based on PP comments production size set nee to wash (should be wash in all the colors) & report submit to Asmara office Qc will send garments for testing to Asmara Lab. Pilot /Shade range wash Based on size set comments pilot production/shade range need to wash ( minimum 2 lots need to wash for shade range ) .
Bulk wash Approval Bulk wash Approval Based on PP/Wash reff. comments review wash range & send to buyers/Asmara for approval copy of washed counter Keep with counter seal Bulk Wash Production After rcvd comments approved shade garments need to seal and send to fcty for production and copy of all approved gmts need to keep in Asmara office Bulk wash Control Bulk wash gmts must wash as per lot size & shade wise Standard all the bulk wash should be meet with color , handfeel,abrasion and the dry process standard and consistent throughout the bulk production. test protocals forCF, crocking ,DS and PH needs to be verified and should be recorded
Combining or eliminating process steps in textile manufacturing
A reduction in energy, water and raw material usage.
In order to implement this measure, the existing dyeing process, the process conditions and quality requirements should be analysed carefully. It is recommended that industry specific pilot / lab scale trials should be undertaken before field scale implementation, to ensure quality.
Reducing the number of process steps requires relatively modest investments. Savings result from increased production speeds (time gains) a reduction in water, energy and raw materials usage. Payback times are often less than a year.
In synthetic textile processing industries, the operations like weight reduction, scouring and whitening could be combined in one single process step.
Reduced operating time and corresponding energy consumption
Reduced water consumption and consequently reduced wastewater generation
Reduced treatment cost of waste water
Reduced BOD & COD loads
This option is primarily applicable when the fabric needs to be dyed later in a dark shade.
Savings depends on the reduction in the processing time and corresponding savings in energy as well as increased capacity utilisation of the machine, reduction in water consumption and wastewater generation.
Centrifugal Extractor -Auto Group is a leading marketing company and indenting company established since 2013 having its head office in Dhaka, overseas office in USA, branch offices in Karachi, Lahore, Peshawar, Quetta, Multan, Sargodha and Sukkur Pakistan. Auto Group is an ISO 9001:2008 certified company. For more details about our company please visit our web site: autogarment For one of our customers we require CENTRIFUGAL EXTRACTOR. as per the attached specifications. Please let us have your most competitive proposal complete in all aspects along with complete technical literature urgently . Also please clearly mention the following points in the offer:
Total Ex Works Value.
Total FOB Value.
Sea / Air Freight Charges.
Make and Country of Origin.
Specification Centrifugal Extractor
Type: Podbielniak or equivalent horizontal centrifugal extractor.
Control panel: Control panel containing motor starters, Frequency Inverters and switches / breakers, 4-20mA analog out.
Features: Easy cleaning (CIP), Dual bearing lubrication system, Hermetic flooded operation, balanced double protection mechanical seal design, Base painted with white two-part epoxy paint, User manual and installation / operation instruction in English
Conclusion
Make: Standard Process Equipment of Equivalent EU/U.S/Japanese/Chinese Origin for Centrifugal Extractor
Best Ozone machine is used to change the color of garments after washing . This machine is like a washing machine but only change the garments color. This machine is work for actually back stain remove.Can do light shade without u
sing chemicals.To clean the surface of tinted garments.Using this machine one bio-product is produced is called esertin whis is harmful for human body.
Some Washing Machine
Drum machine-
Machine no 18 & 19 are rejected.
Need to add water leveling meter and temperature measuring meter in each machine.
Need to add 4 new drum machines of 250lbs with proper measuring meters.
Hydro extractor-
Need to change the M/C no 3 to a new & higher capacity hydro extractor.
Need to add 2 sample hydro extractor.
Dryer-
Dryer no 27 & 28 need to replace as cool dryer. In place of these two dyers, 2 new dryer of bigger capacity need to be added.
Need to increase the efficiency of all dryer.
Need to add 2 sample dryer.
Sample machine-
Need to change M/C no 1, 4, 5 & 9.
Need to add 2machine of 2/3 kg capacity, 1 m/c of 10kg capacity.
We need to add a sample paddle machine for dyeing, capacity would be 5-10kg.
Paddle machines-
Need to increase the efficiency of machine no-22.
Also need to add digital temperature meter.
New front loading machine-
We need to add 2 front loading machines for production of capacity 220kg.
To support these front loading machines, we need 2 sample front loading machines of 2kg & 15kg respectively.
If we add above machine, then we need to add 4 dryer also.
Others-
Deep dye machine don’t have water and temperature meter.
Tie dye machine also don’t have water and temperature meter. Need to add those.
Rejected drum Best Ozone Machine cane be converted into acid wash machine.
Plastic Staple Machine used for tacking the garments after washing this garments will marked where the tag is attached.
The composition/wash care labels
Labels must be in white polyester satin with printed information in black.
Exception- all the garments that undergo an overdyeing process, you are allowed to use a woven label OR you will have to protect the labels with a polybag before the overdyeing process., if the label is printed.
There are three labels –
The composition label
The wash/care label
Label with the reference number+ supplier code (which shall be communicated to you by the concerned buyer at the beginning of the season
The composition label
Dimensions 12cmx3,5cm
Type of information
The composition of the garment outshell and the lining should be mentioned in the following European languages and in the following order -ENGLISH/ FRENCH/ GERMAN/ ITALIAN/ SPANISH/ PORTUGUESE/ DUTCH
The repartition in percentage must appear in the decreasing order e.g. 50% COTTON / 48% POLYESTER / 2% ELASTANE
the country of origin in the aforesaid language order.
the wash care label
Dimensions 12cmx3,5cm
wash care instructions. You must communicate to the buyer the wash a specific garment may or may not undergo, who in turn shall make the final decision depending on the saleability of the product and making sure that a particular washing instruction does not hinder the selling of the garment.
The respective size of the garment
Wash/care symbols
Be careful, you have to put the wash care symbols in the following order from this year
first letter represents the washing symbol
second letter the bleaching symbol
third letter the tumble drying symbol
fourth letter the ironing symbol
fifth letter the professional dry-cleaning symbol
sixth letter the wet-cleaning symbol
seventh letter the natural drying symbol (ISO 3758 only)
the style name and supplier code label
Dimensions 5cmx3,5cm
The style name e.g. M1GATOR J2
Colour
Size
The supplier code in 3 letters e.g. GRE
(Greenhouse exports becomes GRE)
POSITIONING OF THE WASH/CARE/COMPO/REF LABEL
All the three labels must be placed in the following order
The wash-care label on the bottom
The compo label on top of the wash care label
The style name label on top of the compo label
Hydro extractor
Hydro extractor is the m/c by which water is remove from garments . After wash we put the garments into hydro. When hydro is moving with high speed that time materials and water wants to go out side butmaterials can not out but water will go. About 70%-80% water is removed by this process.
Dryer
This dyer m/c is used for drying the garments after wash is called dryer. Dryer are basically two types.
Gas dryer : In this dryer gas is directly burned & heat is produced then applied on garments.
Steam dryer : In this dryer steam is converted to heat exchanger then the heat is applied on garments & dry.
Conclusion
Plastic Staple Machine is very essential for rmg industry
Effect: Acid wash is done on woven items, light knit and heavy knit to get a worn, frosty effect. The garment gets a lighter color on the inside than on the outside of the garment.
Process: A chemical called Potassium Permanganate (PP) is made into a solution. Pumice stones are put into the solution for some time. After absorbing the solution, the stones are taken out and kept in sunlight to dry. When this stones are used in the washing process it is called acid wash/salt wash. The same chemical is used for PP spray
Advantages: Only way to get this frosty look.
Disadvantages: The garments you use acid wash on should be dyed with sulpher dye. If they are reactive dyed, it will be difficult to say what color will come out after acid wash.
Garments wash/rinse wash:
Effect: Is used to get a softer hand feel and get rid of chemicals and waste from treatments. Garment wash is the term for flats, and rinse wash the term for denim, but the process is the same.
Process: The garments are washed, similar to normal home laundry, with or without detergent. Sometimes softener is used depending on required hand feel.
Advantages: To clean the garment after the making, and get rid of loose dye stuff etc
Disadvantages: No disadvantages.
Silicon wash:
Effect: To get a slippery, soft and oily hand feel on the garments.
Process: Silicon softener is used in the wash machine.
Advantages: Silicon is a stable softener, which means it will not go away after home laundry wash.
Disadvantages: No disadvantages, but slightly more expensive than garments wash.
Stone wash:
Effect: To get an allover worn look on garments.
Process: Pumice stones are put in the machine together with the garments. When the garments are washed, the stones hit the garment and the abrasion fades the colour. Details like belt loops, seams, edges will get a more worn look than the flat surface of the garments.
Advantages: Will give a good worn look.
Disadvantages: If used alone (not with enzymes) the result can become uneven. This is because the leg and the waist part have different weight, rotates differently in the machine, and will therefore get different abrasion. This will cause more rejections, which is why stonewash is commonly used together with enzyme wash. If stonewash is done too heavily, the fabric can become too weak and break, especially on belt loops, bottom hems etc, and the garments will be rejected.
Enzyme wash:
Effect: To get a worn look on garments. The worn effect is the same as stone wash
Process: Instead of pumice stones, which you use in stone wash, enzymes (chemicals) are used to get the faded out look.
Advantages: There is less chance of rejection than on stone wash (no broken edges etc.)
Disadvantages: Compared to stone wash, the abrasion are less.
Enzymes
There are different types of enzymes that washing plants use for different purposes: 1. Amylase Enzyme 2. Laccase Enzyme 3. Cellulose Enzymes
Amylase Enzyme (de-sizing)
Effect: In the weaving sizing materials (starch) is used to make the yarn stiffer, so the weaving is made easy. If this is not removed the following wash treatments will not have a good result. Amylase enzyme is used to remove this starch, and the process is called “de-sizing”.
Process: The amylase is added in the washing machine.
Advantages: The other wash treatments that is made on the garment (e.g. enzyme wash) will be efficient, and get more even result after de-sizing is done.
Disadvantages: No disadvantages.
Acid Celluloses Enzyme
Effect: To get a worn effect all over the garments, at edges, belt loops, seams etc.
Process: The enzyme is used in the wash machine.
Advantages: It is a very aggressive enzyme, so the effect can be achieved quickly.
Disadvantages: Back staining/re-deposition of dyestuff is much higher, which means that pocket linings etc can become discoloured.
Laccase Enzyme
Effect: Is used to get outstanding contrasted look on denim fabric. Can also be used on non denim, but it is not as common.
Process: The enzyme is used in the wash machine
Advantages: The indigo is reduced faster than with other enzymes, so abrasion and washed out look will appear fast with less time in wash.
It works almost like bleach (see B7), but will give more contrast to the fabric so it will not look as flat as bleach. It will however not give as light result as bleach. Important advantage is also that it is much less damaging for the environment than bleach. Re-deposition of dye stuff is less, so you will get less back staining.
Disadvantages: More expensive than other enzymes.
Bleach wash (used only on denim):
Effect: To get a faded out, lighter shade on denim.
Process: Calcium hypo chloride, a bleaching agent, is added in the wash.
Advantages: It is the only way to get the denim much lighter. If you want a less bleach look, laccase
Disadvantages: The fabrics tensile strength will be reduced. Bleach is not environmental friendly.
Combination of wet processes
The wet possesses are commonly used in combination with each other.
For example:
Sand + Silicon: Is used to get a slight washed out look, a peachy feeling, and a slippery hand feel.
Enzyme + Silicon or Stone + Enzyme + Silicon: Is used to get a washed out look, and a slippery hand feel. Both options give similar look, and factory decide from case to case what is better.
Enzyme + Bleach or Stone + Enzyme + Bleach: Is used to get wash abrasion and a lighter shade on denim. Both options give similar look, and factory decide from case to case what is better.
Conclusion
Acid Wash, Stone Wash, Silicon Wash and Enzyme Wash is applied in washing factory
Effect: A crinkled effect of tagging machine on small areas, for example waist bands, belt loops pockets and bottom hems. Helps to give the garment a worn look.
Process: The fabric is gathered before wash with a plastic tag using a tagging machine. Then when wash is done with the tag attached, the color will stay in the creases. The color shading is permanent. The 3D-creases however are not visible on the readymade garment, so the fabric will be flat. If you want the creases to be raised, you need to use permanent crinkle (A9).
Advantages : Gives good contrast by on small areas for example front pockets waist band and belt loops.
Disadvantages: On many fabrics the marks after the tag can be visible on the ready garment. Therefore it can be better to use hand needle stitch, especially on for example twill, corduroy, canvas fabric and light weight denim. The disadvantage of this is that hand needle is slower in production. Another solution is to use a thinner needle in the tagging machine if available.
Resin Finish
Effect: To get dry hand feel
Process: Can be used in wet process or by spraying on the garments
Advantages: Only way to get a dryer hand feel
Disadvantages: Resin is used in the wet process, or sometimes by applying resin by spraying it on the garments
Tinting
Effect: To get dirty look and to change the colour of the denim.
Process: Different types of dyes are added for a short cycle in the wash together with the garments.
Advantages: The only way to get dirty look on the garments.
Disadvantages: Tints may come off after customer wash, and there will be shade variation between the different lots. This can be prevented by: -Making sure the garment is free of contamination before tinting, so that the garments ph value is neutral. -Using reactive dye rather than direct dye. -Do proper fixing and rinse properly so loose dye will go away.
Local tinting:
Effect: To get dirty look and to change actual colour on denim.
Process: Different type of dye are used by spraying or rubbing them on the garments.
Advantages: The tint can be focused on a certain area, when the garment normally would get more dirty when you use it, for example at front leg.
Disadvantages: Difficult to fix colour and dry rubbing problems. This can be prevented by curing the garment in an oven/curing machine after the tinting has been made. So tagging machine is very useful