List of Fabric Cutting Tools for Apparel Factory

List of Fabric Cutting Tools for Apparel Factory

Fabric Cutting Machine

Fabric cutting machine is very important factor in textile and garments sectors. A good quality garment will be ready first to wear when it will be completed by sewing after cutting fabrics. Many parts of fabric which are cutted by fabric cutting machine in a cutting table in the lay or spread of fabric. The cutting department has the duty of getting the raw material from the store; the raw material is mainly the fabric and interlining, in case of the cutting department. It also has to get the right marker at right time to ensure the smooth running of the department. After the cutting is completed, the cutting department has to dispatch the cut-parts to the sewing department.

List of Cutting Tools:

List of cutting tools or cutting tool is given below-

Water jet Cutting Machine
Water Jet Cutting Machine

Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:

There arethree types of cutting machine available.

Manual cutting machine:

  • Die cutting
  • Drill cutting
  • Hand operated cutting scissor

Manually operated power knife cutting machine:

  • Straight knife cutting machine
  • Round knife cutting machine
  • Band knife cutting machine

Computerized cutting  machine

  • Knife
  • Water jet
  • Laser
  • Plasma torch

Hand Cutters: 

Hand cutters are used to give a small cut to the check fabric after the lay has been spread. This small cut thus made is then torn by the hand and the cutter is not used for the whole width cutting, as cutting throughout can cause the shift of grain and by tearing, the grain does not changes, hence, the cutting of the edge is manual in check fabric.

Cutting Step With Fabric Cutting Machine:

The cutting is done in 3 steps, in the first step, block cutting is done, followed by relaying of the blocks and further cutting it into actual patterns. The spread fabric is cut by 1-3 cutting operators with the help of straight knife fabric cutting machine. The patterns are not given a precise cut at first but are cut into ‘blocks’ that mark the outline of each pattern. The cutting in this section is done for an average of 140 bundles in an hour for a cotton check fabric, though it differs with the type of fabric and the design.

There are a few things which are to be kept in mind while cutting the free fabric lays. These can be listed as

  • Precision of cut
  • Clean edges
  • Unscorched, unfused edges (for polyester fabric)
  • Support of the lay
  • Consistent cutting

The marker is placed over the spread fabric and is matched to the ends. The lay is 1” more than the total width and length of the spread. This allowance is left to allow the space for the movement of the cutter. A hole is made in every marker piece of the paper marker by tearing it, this hole is covered by the cello tape and it keeps the marker from moving from its place. The plies are also kept from moving by the side by the use of clips. A straight knife cutter is used for cutting the block patterns. For a spread extending to 14 yards, upto 3 cutters are used for the purpose of cutting tools. The use of more than 1 cutter at a time increases the number of patterns cut in an hour by 3 times. These cutting men are skilled operators in this job, and cut an average of 25 bundles of 234 lays of the 100% cotton fabric.

The block cuts are then taken for the re-laying, which is done for check and stripe matching. The relaying also ensures that the plies of the block are aligned to perfection. Matching the horizontal lines of the check with he horizontal lines on the table does the check matching in this stage; 2 people are used for this purpose. They also make sure that the block patterns are aligned vertically also, by matching their ends. This re-laying is the most time consuming work in the cloth cutting process with fabric cutting machine and also important for the quality purpose as it ensure the matching of the checks and the stripes.

These blocks, after re-laying are taken for the re-cutting. This re-cutting is done with the help of straight knife cutter and also uses the band knife cutter for smaller pieces. The cloth cutting tool man cuts the final pattern but leaves a small protruding area in the bigger parts, like the front and the back to provide an area for numbering.

The fabric is now finally cut into final pattern, which are very much in the stitching condition. All the pieces are then numbered, in the reverse order from the top. The numbered pieces of the same garment, and of the same colored are again grouped together and bundled. This ensues a proper grouping of patterns cut together. This ends the work to be done on the patterns by the cloth cutting tools machine room. The patterns are then dispatched to the sewing room whenever requested.

Protective Cutting Tools Policy:

This policy is applicable for the workers and those specific staff who work in particular areas, which are hazardous. The objective of this policy is to make sure that, people who are exposed to hazardous or dangerous machines and materials, which are harmful for health, are protected from the risks of such exposures and so that the damage to health can be prevented before it can happen

Basis:

Many of the works that is done in the garment factories possess risks to the health and safety of the workers, and therefore there needs to be a policy to ensure that, everyone is provided with protective equipment to safeguard the health of the relevant persons

Protective Cutting Tool Policy Checklist

All employees working in places which could have health hazards are to be provided with the kind of protective equipment which is particularly required to protect those specific employees, from specific kinds of harms and damages that they are in the risks of. For example: people who are working in the sewing lines are to be provided with the needle guards and goggles, ear plugs in the areas where noise level is very high, cloth cutting section needs to have people wearing metal gloves to avoid any injuries or accidental severing of body parts, musk at the places where too much exposures of dust particles, special gas masks should be provided for the people working in the wash section, PPE spraying area, san blasting and so on.

  • Company will make sure that, they maintain an inventory of all personal protective equipment and if there is any short fall from the required legal minimum quantity, then the company will ensure that the stock is replenished and no one is left exposed to the risks for any duration of time.
  • All people who are working in areas where there are risks have to be trained by the company on how to use the protective equipment and the benefits to themselves by their use and application.
  • Protective equipment will be maintained under strict vigilance and security so that there is no pilferage and loss, and there will be a careful register maintained to keep track of who is using which equipment
  • Compliance and floor management is to maintain strict vigilance to ensure that, everybody who is supposed to wear and use protective equipment, is doing so without any failing and those who are found to not be doing so are to be identified and penalized according to the appropriate disciplinary policy

Regulations & Procedures:

  • Company will maintain an inventory of job roles with risks associated with each of them and kind of protective equipment are required for those specific job roles.
  • Company will make sure that, people who are in those job roles are provided with the appropriate equipment

Communication & Implementation:

  • Policy will be communicated through mail notifications to all and subsequent explanation by the floor management teams, Welfare, Compliance and Admin Departments
  • Also the written policy will be published and sent to the relevant departments to proper implantation of this policy

Feedback & Control:

  • HR will prepare job risk inventory and Admin will ensure the requirement of the equipment and Floor management will ensure the use of the equipment, Compliance will be responsible for overall monitor of the policy)
  • Cloth Cutting Department will carry out random audit to see the status of the equipment and its proper use
  • Floor management will inform the HR and Compliance Departments when there is short fall and they will give requisition for the equipment to the Purchase Department, who make the purchase and handover those equipment to HR and finally HR Department will deploy the equipment through the Admin Department.
  • There will be microphone announcement make several times in a day, warning people about the dangers of not using the protective equipment and officials of the Admin, Welfare Departments and floor management will take note of the people who are found to not be using such equipment and will report to HR and Compliance Departments.

Purpose of Cloth Cutting:

The purpose of cloth cutting is stated here shortly-

  • Fabric must be cut by specific some size to be it useable to make garments.
  • Hundreds of piece of garment’s free fabric should be cut at a time in cutting table.
  • It is possible to cut hundreds of garment’s fabric same design which is provided through buyers requirements or any other factory.
  • Too many lay or spread of fabric’s can be cut different size by the tender of buyer.
  • It is possible for cloth cutting make garments for different country and cultures.
  • Make this cloth cutting suitable according to sewing requirements to use to next level
Engr. Kh. Mashiur Rahman, Garments Auto Machine Technologist, Web: www.autogarment.com, Email: autogarments@gmail.com, Cell: +88 017 92 52 53 54

				
					
What is Round Cutting Knife Machine? List of Knife Parts

What is Round Cutting Knife Machine? List of Knife Parts

Round Cutting Knife Machine

Round cutting knife machine is the most useful cutter knife instrument in apparel industry. Round knife is mainly used for small production. Round knife cutting machine is called round knife cutting machine because its cutter is round but slightly octagonal in shape. Round Knife is basically used for edge cutting while the manual laying or spreading is taking place. It is 200 mm in diameter and has a limitation for not cutting precise at the curve and thus is used for edge cutting as it gives a precise straight line cut. It is used for cutting the plain and stripe fabric, but strictly not for cutting the edge of the check fabric because it causes the problem of bowing if the check fabric gets an off-grain cut.

Function of Round Cutter Knife:

Round cutter knife is widely used to separate the big parts and separate the blocks of fabric from relatively small height fabric lay.

Types of Knives:

Types of knives is listed here-

  • Round knife
  • Bowie knife
  • Cutter knife /cutting knife
  • Throwing knife
  • Sharpening a knife
  • Utility knife
  • Automatic knife

Knife Parts:

Knife parts are specified here shortly-

knife parts
Knife Parts
  • Electric motor.
  • Plug.
  • Control handle.
  • Handle
  • Power switch.
  • Sharpener
  • Knife
  • Knife guard
  • Throat plate
  • Base plate
  • Rollers
  • Power Switch
  • Power Supply
  • Locking Disk
list of round knif parts
list of round knif parts1

Specifications of a Automatic Knife:

Specifications NameSpecifications Value
Product CategoryCutting
Machine CategoryKnife Cutting Machine
Product NameRound automatic knife
Product ModelAccording to Manufacturer
Product ClassNew
OriginMade in China
Brand/ Manufacturercutlery corner
Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
Power1 Phase 100,   110/120V,   220V/240V
TemperatureNormal
CertificationSGS/Others
Production Capacity32mm (1.25”)
Speed SingleStandard
Blade size4 Sided Blade 110mm (4 1/4”)
Standard BladeHigh Speed Steel
Base PlateThin Bases & 4 rollers
SafetyWith Finger Guard, Balanced Handle, CE
Weight3.5kgs/ 7.7 lbs.
Description Should be eror free.

Features of Round Knifes:

  • Round knife is more costly than Straight Knife Cutting Machine
  • Round knife machine can be easily movement due to light weight.
  • Round knife machine have manual grinder is used to sharp the blade.
  • Blade automatic knife is octagonal type & has a very sharp edge.
  • Fabric lay height can be cut using up to 40 percent of the blade diameter of round knife.
cutting knife
cutting knife

Advantages Round Cutting Knife Machine:

  • Round knife is specially used for cutting suit of fashion garment,
  • Throwing knife is easy to operate,
  • Throwing knife is best suitable for gentle curve cutting.

Disadvantages Round Cutting Knife Machine:

  • Throwing knife requires very skilled operator to cut the fabric,
  • This machine is not suitable for bulk production,
  • Very low knife height.

Fabric Height Cutting’s Rules: 

Type of fabricHeight
1) linen¾”
2) t/c or cotton fabric1″
3) dobby fabric¾”
4) cotton spandex  (solid)1″
5) cotton spandex  (stripe)¾”
6) oxford fabric (solid)¾”
7) oxford fabric ( stripe)½”
8) twill cotton (solid)¾”
9) twill cotton (stripe)½”
10) corduroy fabric¾”
11) denim fabric (hard)½”
12) denim fabric (soft)1″

Standard Operating Procedures of Cutting

Cutting: It is the process of effective utilization of fabric by efficient marker making and cutting of garment parts to provide support to business by reducing the Fabric Costs (added due to wastages).

Importance of Cutting: In garment business, Fabric cost covers 60% of the total cost of manufacturing. Thus, it becomes very important to use the fabric efficiently with least wastages. Cutting department can be considered as the most important department for any Factory.

Cutting Sop
Cutting SOP

Cutting Department: The following processes constitute the Cutting department:

  • Fabric Relaxation
  • Spreading and Cutting
  • Numbering and bundling
  • Fusing

SOP for Cutting: First of all, the Shade segregation report is referred

  • After receiving the fabric, it is verified with the Shade report as per CCR, which is prepared by merchandiser by considering the shrinkage rate with shade report.
  • Fabric relaxation of minimum 48 hours is done for Spandex fabrics
  • Table preparation is done and fabric Spreading is done. The record for end –bits is kept. During laying, the Q/C continuously checks the fabric and marks the area containing defects. These marked area parts are replaced later on using the same roll end – bits
  • After spreading, Marker is placed on top of the lay and checking is done by placing hard patterns to avoid any errors of marker, overlapping, grain line and missing parts.
  • Once, the marker is confirmed to be OK, Cutting is done followed by Cut Panel Audit. Any issues arising are resolved by the Cutting In-charge and defective parts are replaced simultaneously.
  • Numbering and Bundling is done after cutting to avoid any serial mistakes during sewing (which may lead to panel to panel shade variation).
  • After Numbering, bundles are sent for Fusing and Printing. The Q/C checks the quality and placement of fusing and printing randomly. Any issues encountered are immediately highlighted and resolved by the Cutting in-charge.
  • Once, all the quality check points are passed, the cut parts are issued to the Sewing department.

Reports in Cutting Section: Six reports are being made in the Cutting Section:

  1. Fabric Relaxation Record
  2. Marker and Spreading Checking Report
  3. Daily Cut Panels and Bundling Checking Report
  4. Parts Replacement Report
  5. Fusing M/C Temperature and Pressure Checking Report
  6. Fusing M/C Clean Report

Fabric Relaxation Procedure:

Fabric relaxation is very important for fabric having stretch/spandex in nature. This kind of fabric is required to be unrolled and kept for minimum 24 hours to come back to its original shape. Relaxation is vital to keep measurement after cutting consistent.

  • 79% Model 21% polyester
  • 62% Viscose 34% polyester 4% linen
  • 95% Polyester 5% spandex
  • 63% Polyester 34% rayon 3% spandex
  • 75% Polyester 22% rayon 3% spandex
  • 93% Polyester 6% spandex 1% rayon
  • 55% Linen 45% rayon
  • 60% Rayon 37% polyester 3% spandex
  • 55% Rayon 45% polyester
  • 97% Cotton 3% spandex
  • 100% Polyester
  • 55% Linen 45% cotton yarn dyed
  • 82% Rayon 18% polyester
  • 55% Linen 45% Cotton

Conclusion:

Nice to contact you. This is Celia from Hangzhou Xuchuan Co.,ltd. I noticed your website ,and know you have bussiness in round knife cuttiing machine,so I guss you may have interest in our round fabric cutters and multifunction household sewing machine presser foot.
We are supplier of fabric cutters and presser feet.Our cutters are in high quality at the most favorable price.With high quality and favorable price,our products have been exported to Thailand ,Malaysia,UK,Italy and USA,and it’s popular in our customers. Here I enclose images for your reference,and any size can be customised.If you have interest if any of them,welcome to inquire me.Sharpening a knife cutting machine is popular in the garment industries. Best used for light to medium weight fabrics; woven or loosely knit fabric. But it is normally used for small production.

Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com
Celia, Xcan Company Ltd, Mobile : +0086 13957850772,Fax : +0086 (571) 86412851,Address : 288# Qiuyi Rd,Binjiang DistrictHangzhou,China 310052
Straight Knife Cutter is Manufactured by Olfa and Milling

Straight Knife Cutter is Manufactured by Olfa and Milling

Straight Knife Cutter

Olfa, Martor, Milling  and other company manufacture straight knife cutting machine. Butterfly knives, millingknife, ontario knives, tops knives and cool knives are available in market.  In the garment/ apparel industries, straight knife cutting machine is used widely. This machine is used to cut woven and knit fabrics. Operator can easily to use messer cutting systems. The cutting production sheet is used to make sure that the raw material and all the things have arrived to the cutting section and everything is ready before the laying starts. If the fabric has any defects or faults as inspected by the store, then it is mentioned in this sheet and the cutting manager can make a point of taking such things into measure. The data provided by this sheet also renders information about the marker consumption and also the interlining status, which are other important things that are used in the department apart from the fabric.

Parts of Straight Knife Cutter:

parts of cool knives
Parts of Knives
  • Electric motor.
  • Power plug.
  • Switch.
  • Grease inlet.
  • Sharpening device.
  • Handle.
  • Stand.
  • Knife.
  • Knife Guard.
  • Pressure foot.
  • Throat plate.
  • Base plate.
  • Rollers.

Specifications of Straight Knives :

Specifications NameSpecifications Value
Product CategoryCutting
Machine CategoryKnife Cutting Machine
Product NameStraight Knife Cutting Machine
Product ModelAccording to Manufacturer
Product ClassNew
OriginMade in China
Brand/ ManufacturerButterfly knives
Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
Power110v/220v, Horsepower: .65h.p.
TemperatureNormal
CertificationSGS/Others
Production CapacityNA
Speed3,400 rpm (single speed)
Stroke1-1/2”
Blade size8”
Sharpening beltsMedium
MediumManual
Dimensions8” x 12” x 20.5”
Weight32 lbs
Description 

Features of Straight  Knives:

olfa milling knives
Knifes

Ontario knives could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.

  • These are  zero tolerance knives,
  • By ontario knives heavy fabric such as denim and canvas can be cut.
  • Advantages of Straight Knives:

    • Ontario knives can be moved easily by rollers.
    • Butterfly knives are easy to install,
    • Butterfly knives are heavy
    • Straight Knife Cutting Machine is cheaper than Round Knife Cutter Machine
    • Milling is comparatively cheap easier to operate
    • Milling, automatic Grinding could be done during cutting.
    • Could be cut at any angle and could be cut fabric at more curved line than the round knife of butterfly knives

    Disadvantages of Straight Knife Cutter:

    • Milling cool knives deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
    • The Risk of milling cool knives are high for physical damage of operator
    • Costly
    Straight Knife is butterfly knives
    Cutting Process

    Industrial Engineering in Cutting Department:

    The number of operators working in the department is 35 for Autogarment and 35 for Garmentspedia.14 operators are for spreading and cutting, 17 for relaying and 4 for panel checking. These numbers are the same in both the sections, namely, Autogarment and Garmentspedia. Apart from this, 9 people are used for the purpose of numbering and bundling. The spreading and cutting requires skilled operator, whereas the numbering operator can be unskilled as well.

    The machines employed for the purpose of spreading and cutting are- Round Knife, Band Knife, Spreading Tables etc.

    MachineNumber
    Band Knife3 (1per unit)
    Straight Knife 15 (5 per unit)
    Round Knife3 (1 per unit)
    Drill2
    Tables9 (4 spread/cut)

    Cutting Plan:

    The cutting plan sheet is filled with the details of the cutting and the ratio and also the number of lays based on these ratios. The cutting plan is made by the cutting department and a copy of the same is provided to the CAD department so that they can make the marker accordingly.

    Conclusion:

    Although the milling cool knives other knives  has some limitation, this machine is very popular in the apparel industries to cut both woven and knit fabric. Some machine are zero tolerance knives. A report is prepared in this format, which includes the data regarding the progress of the cutting of a particular order. This includes the data like the number of pieces in the order, the number of pieces cut and the balance number of pieces, all in the required ratio and the given color quantity. The report also includes the interlining details and the cutting details.

    Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com
    Button Hole Sewing Machine is First Sewing Machine

    Button Hole Sewing Machine is First Sewing Machine

    Button Hole Sewing Machine

    Button Hole sewing Machine like juki , janome  is a simple automatic machine which is used garments industries to make hole of button of apparel. It is easier than hand sewing system.  The size of the hole of button hole sewing machine depends on the size of the button. The   hole is created by a cutting knife which is operated from the top after stitching. Various type button hole is formed by this modern and latest machine. This is very similar of Attaching Buttonhole Machine

    Buttonhole Machine First Sewing Machine:

    Buttonhole machine is mainly used for clothing such as dress shirt, pant, knit wear, sweaters etc.

    Button Hole Sewing Machine
    Button Hole Sewing Machine

    Parts of Sewing Machine:

    The parts of sewing machine is specified below-

    • Cotton stand
    • Pulley
    • Thread Guide Box
    • Thread Guide
    • SD card
    • Tension release lever
    • Treadle
    • Motor
    • Thread take up cover
    • Eye guard
    • Cutting knife

    Features of Buttonhole Machine :

    The features of a buttonhole machine is given here which is found in a sewing shop

    • It is easy adjustment of hole size & stitch density are facilated.
    • The hole is cut either before or after stitching.
    •  Buttonhole machine is very  first sewing machine
    • It is a straight or shaped slit cut.
    • Special type of thread is used for sewing and thread of the machine is available on sewing shop
    • Lock or chain stitch may be used which may be available on sewing shop
    • This type of machine is available in sewing shop manufactured by different sewing machine company

    Guide Line for Button Hole Operation: 

    For woven tops garments we use two types of button hole machine in production.  Types are Purl and whip.

    There is a guide line which we have been following but in some cases it is not maintained properly which causes quality failure and reduces productivity. Guide lines are stated below-

    • For any type of formal shirt button hole operation will be purl and for casual it will be whip.
    • For any type of wash garments button hole operation will be whip.
    • If fabric weaving is compact we may go with purl hole.
    • Exception to the above rules can be applied as per buyer’s requirement.

    Specification of Buttonhole Sewing Machine :

    Specification of a first singer sewing machine  is given below-

    Specifications NameSpecifications Value
    Product CategorySewing
    Machine CategorySewing Machine
    Product NameButtonhole sewing machine
    Product ModelJuki
    Product ClassNew
    OriginChina/India/Others
    Brand/ Manufacturersinger sewing machine
    Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
    Power380v
    TemperatureNormal
    CertificationSGS/Others
    Production CapacityNA
    GroupLock stitch or chain stitch
    Stitch per minute1500
    Needle size9,11,14,16,18,20,21
    Thread per inch4-5”
    Seam classSuper imposed
    Stitch class300/100
    No of Bobbin1
    No of needle1
    DescriptionSinger sewing machine is error free.

    Moving the buttonhole sewing Machine :

    The buttonhole sewing machine should be carried by two people as shown in the figure. Hold the motor cover A firmly by hand, so that the pulley will not rotate. Please wear a pair of skid proof shoes while moving the sewing machine. When the machine is ready for operation all the safety devices is not allowed.

    button hole machine on sewing shop
    Moving the Button

    The Installation Position:

    Please do not install the sewing machine near the equipment’s such as Television, Radio, or Wireless Telephone. Or these equipment’s will experience electronic interface. The wire should insert to the AC power socket directly. If using the extension wire this might cause malfunction.

    Some Faults During Production:

    • Shadding at neck yoke
    • Poor shape at armhole
    • Puckering at slv joint
    • Needle damage at slv joint
    • Hole at body
    • Oil stain
    • Yarn contamination
    • Hi-low at front and back part
    • Shadding at neck yoke
    • Poor shape at armhole
    • Puckering at slv joint
    • Needle damage at slv joint
    • Hole at body
    • Oil stain
    • Yarn contamination
    • Hi-low at front and back part

    Buttonhole Sewing Machine Working Procedure: 

    Use of knife to make hole according to size

    For buttonhole machine of 18 liner hole is created by 9/16 Knife. For button of 14 liner hole is created by 7/16 Knife. Snap button for adjusting with garment’s if button fitting tight then presser should be increase at female button to make free (big) the hole. If snap top side plastic or glass then should be considered for increasing presser and have to adjust a presser that will not damage top side.

    Rules to identify about liner of button

    As we know,

    1 inch = 40 liner

    1 inch = 2.54 cm

    = 25.4 mm

    Liner = 25/ 40 [mm / liner]

    = 0.625

    Button width = 11 mm

    Liner = 11/ 0.625

    =   17.60

    = 18 [Because after point if the number is bigger than 5 than it counts as 1 and point dismissed]

    Rules to set hole at neck and front placket

    Rules = front placket width /2 -3     [here 3 mm minus for bartack width]

    As rules

    If f / placket width = 3 cm = 30 mm

    Hole placement of neck will be = (30 / 2 – 3) mm

    = 12 mm

    If f / placket width = 3.5 cm = 35 mm

    Hole placement of neck will be = (35 / 2- 3) mm

    =  14.5 mm

    Front placket hole placement

    Front placket width / 2 = f / plkt hole placement

    If , placket width = 30mm

    Hole placement will be = (30 / 2) mm

    = 15 mm

    Rules to set BD button

    For setting BD button following rules should follow:

    At first we have to fold a gmts as standard fold and after that have to measure collar spread.

    According to collar spread have to make a pattern to mark for button attached. To make pattern we have to carry in mind following elements:

    • collar spread
    • collar shape
    • collar point length & width

    Note: this pattern should differ from size to size.

    Classification of button & hole

    There are many kinds of button. But almost using types of button are given below:-

    • wood button
    • metal button
    • plastic button
    • chock button
    • etc

    There are four types of hole:-

    • horizontal
    • vertical
    • eyelet
    • diagonal

    Classification of button & hole stc

    Button stc are two types those are found in sewing shop:-

    • normal lock stc
    • cross and lock stc

    Hole stc are two types:-

    • whip
    • pearl

    Use of hole in gmts

    For wash item hole should be whip and for non wash item hole should be pearl. Because there is possibility to broken hole (pearl) by wash.

    Thread use at button and hole sewing

    For hole sewing 60/2 count no thread is used almost time.

    For button sewing 50/2 count no thread is used almost of time.

    Pull test Procedure of Button Hole Sewing Machine

    For Plastic, Snap & Metal button 

    • weight & Time

    Standard weight – 90 Newton or 9.5 Kg (Approx) & Standard time – 10 second.

    Size set garments & every size at ten pcs should have to pull test. (Procedure can be very)

    How To Make A Buttonhole :

    • Button hole must be suitable for the type of fabric/product/wash
    • Button hole must have matching thread colour with fabric/top stitches, if no other instruction has been given
    • Button hole must be sewn/placed according to the order instructions
    • Button hole must be sewn with sufficient density
    • Button hole must be stitched through minimum 2 layers of fabric and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate,
    • Button hole must open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing.
    • Button hole must One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing. Wearing test
    • Button hole must must be done if sensitive fabrics!
    • Button hole must have the right size
    • Button hole must allow ease of buttoning
    • Button hole must be clean and nice
    • Button hole must recommended to pre-stitch around buttonhole before sewing, see Button Guideline

    How To Make Buttonholes More Process –

    • Buttonholes must be sewn on minimum 2 layers of fabrics, and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate, open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing, but wearing test must be done if sensitive fabrics!
    • Buttonholes must 10-14 stitches for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of thread. Example: o adult garments: 10 for normal button, 14 for big button. Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand
    • Buttonholes must 7-10 stitches x 2 for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of thread. Example: o adult garments: 7+7 for normal button, 10+10 for big button.  Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand 90 N
    • Buttonholes must be sewn with poly/poly core spun yarn on outerwear garments, o metal- and heavy buttons on all garments (if no specific requirement due to e.g. garment dying etc).
    • Buttonholes must All other garment types: poly/poly core spun yarn is strongly recommended, but 3 ply thread is also accepted
    • Buttonholes must when machine stitched, always be attached with lock-stitch machine, if no other instruction has been given
    • when hand sewn, always be securely stitched on with minimum 4 stitches, with double
    • thread, and finally fastened with 3 stitches and a knot
    • when shank button, always be attached through minimum 2 layers of fabric on lock-
    • stitch machine. If not possible with lockstitch machine it must be secured by hand
    • after machine sewn. Depending on the type/size of the button, metal or heavy buttons
    • must be secured with a wrapping around the shank
    • Minimum Manufacturing Requirements for jersey & knit products
    • Buttonholes must all uncut threads on the buttons and shanks must be carefully trimmed, 3-5 mm is accepted
    • Buttonholes must be suitable for fabric/product/wash
    • Buttonholes must be sewn on/placed according to the order instructions have no sharp edges.
    • Buttonholes must be colour fast

    Sop for Button Hole

    AIM: Buttonhole-size regulation to avoid being opened easily when they are bigger than the size of buttons and being opened hard when they are smaller than the size of buttons.

    SCOPE: This memorandum covers shirts which are manufactured abroad or within the country.

    RESPONSIBLE PARTIES:  

    Garment Technologist / Chief Pattern Cutters:

    • Garment Technologists and Chief Pattern Cutters fill in “Risk Analysis Form for the styles that they find risky and write “It has been approved technically; it should be followed carefully in pre-production samples and production,” during technical meetings.
    • They are responsible for stating the reference number of the related memorandum in the sewing instructions as outlined in Memorandum
    • Merchandiser: Sending the related memorandum to Manufacturers.

    APPLICATION: Preventing buttonholes in shirts from being applied smaller / bigger than buttons: Buttonholes should be appr. 0,1cm bigger than the size of shirt buttons.

    Incorrect application (Buttonhole is smaller than the button.) 2
    Incorrect application (Buttonhole is smaller than the button.)
    Correct application (Buttonhole is 0,1cm bigger than the button.)
    Correct application (Buttonhole is 0,1cm bigger than the button.)

    Conclusion:

    This type of Button Hole Sewing Machine is not use for different purpose. It is very popular in the garments industries.

    [1] Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com
    Beautiful Sewing Machine Stitches made by Bar Tack Machine

    Beautiful Sewing Machine Stitches made by Bar Tack Machine

    Sewing Machine Stitches

    Sewing machine stitches made by bartacking sewing machine like janome  is actually a lockstitch sewing machine group which produced a very high density sewing machine stitches in a very short length for increase strength of that particular place. Bartacking machine contains one needle and one bobbin. These machines are used for sewing both woven and knitted garments by machine operators

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    What is Blind Stitch? How Blind Stitching Machine Works?

    What is Blind Stitch? How Blind Stitching Machine Works?

    What is Blind Stitch

    Blind stitch sewing machine for blind stitching is a special type of sewing machine which is used in the garments industries to produce stitches is not seen on the face side of the fabric is called blindstitch sewing machine. Usually curved needle is used in this machine as it can penetrate in the fabric partially..

    How to Blind Stitch Machine Works?

    This machine is used for blind stitch hem and attaching the lining to the waistband. Blind sewing machine stitches represent high quality and perform equally well on light to heavy fabrics.The various problems to be checked are listed in the list of the defectsin . Apart from this audit system after every critical operation checkpoints are established, within a line of production, where 100% checking is done. Refer to the in line Inspection Report

    blind stitch hem
    Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

    It works as presser foot and sewing machine repair facility is available. In the following  this machine works-

    • Turn on the power switch of the motor.
    • Turn on the power switch of the control box.
    • Fold a fabric into two, insert it into the blind-hemming guide, and pull down the guide horizontally.
    • Raise the presser foot to set the fabric under it.
    • Lower the presser foot to start sewing.
    • Bling-hemming guide is fixed with the solenoid.
    • When the stepped part passes through the guide, the slide edge guide moves to the right to prevent off-stitches.
    • When coming the start point of sewing near the guide, push the knee switch to raise the blind-hemming guide.
    • Finish sewing.

    Blind Stitching Sewing Machine with Parts:

    Blind stitch sewing machine with parts is listed here –

    Features of Blind Stitch Machine :

    The features of Blind Stitch Machine is described here shortly for better understanding about the machine-

    Off-stitch prevention: Off-stitch can be prevented because this is stepped part detection type. When the stepped part at joint seam passes the blind-hemming guide, the sensor detects the stepped part and the slide edge guide moves to the right to prevent off-stitch.

    Guide fix: table seam can be obtained and very beautiful sewing will result because the blind-hemming guide is fixed securely with the solenoid during sewing. Also when the stepped part of joint seam passes the blind-hemming guide and the sensor, the guide is fixed and the sensor detects the stepped part correctly.

    Easy guide operation: The blind-hemming guide is raised by pressing the knee switch lightly and manual raising is unnecessary, and the beautiful sewing finish. When placing a fabric, the blind-hemming guide is free (no load), and placing of a fabric is easy.

    Easy interchanging to plain sewing (with TC device only): When CH device swings out frontward and the lever of TC device moves to plain sewing direction, the tension changes from blind hemming to plain sewing and easy plain sewing is possible.

    Easy cleaning: Swing-out type of CH device can be easy to clean the device.

    More technical features are listed below-

    • High speed sewing up to a maximum of 40000 rpm
    • Clearance between needle and looper point machine which can be easily lever adjusted when changing the needle count.
    • Special type of sewing machine and very expensive design for blind stitching machine
    • Using this machine works?
    • Fabric penetration by the curved needle is partial.

    Specification of Blind Stitch Machine:

    Specifications of a sewing machine with stitches are specified here –

    [label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“][label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
    Product CategorySewing
    Machine CategoryStitch
    Product Nameblind stitch machine
    Product ModelAccording to Manufacturer
    Product ClassNew
    OriginChina/India/Others
    Brand/ Manufacturerbrother
    Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
    Power380v
    TemperatureNormal
    CertificationSGS/Others
    Production CapacityNA
    GroupChain stitch (Intra looping)
    Stitch per minute2500
    No of needle1 needles
    No of looper1 looper
    Seam classSuper imposed
    Stitch class100
    DescriptionThis machine is used for sewing machine stitches

    Blind Stitch Sewing Machine Installation :

    Before operating, ALWAYS turn the motor power switch OFF and check that the motor has already stopped. Install the control box at the right or left end on the back surface of the machine table, and the knee switch on the right or left side easy to operate. Refer to Fig. 3 to connect those connectors with the same color and shape, and the power cord to the control box.

    Blind Stitch Sewing Machine Installation
    Blind Stitch Sewing Machine Installation

    To prevent something moving from hitting and tearing the cord, attach the cord to some place like the table  legs. Be careful not to damage the cord. Unplug the motor power cord from the outlet when operating. Turn OFF the power switch on the control box.

    Connecting power cord: If not different from standard, change the power cord and fuse. Connect the red and black cords to the terminals on the motor’s side of the power switch. The green cord is a ground wire. Connect it to the same screw to which the ground wire of the motor’s side is connected.

    blind stitch machine power cord
    Power Cord

    Precautions of Blind Stitch Sewing Machine :

    Use always those fuses applicable to the capacity of the power voltage used. Even if fuses are the same size, their capacities can be different. Be sure to check printed capacities. Using inapplicable power cord or fuse can damage the machine.

    Opening Front Cover:

    • When adjusting the looper, open the front cover as follows.
    • Slide the presser foot to the left.
    • Pull the part(1) of CH device frontward to swing out at 180° .
    • Slide the front cover to the right and tilt it frontward.

    Interchange to Plain Sewing of Blind Stitch Machine: 

    Interchange to plain sewing as follows.

    Interchange blind stitch machine to plain sewing
    Interchange Blind Stitch Machine
    • Slide the presser foot to the left.
    • Pull the part (1)of CH device frontward to swing out at 180° . It is held with the solenoid holder fixing spring plate(2)
    • Set the lever of TC device in the direction “T”

    Standard Adjustment of Hemming Operation:

    • Adjust the differential feeding amount depending on a fabric.
    • To set the blind-hemming edge guide as standard, align the left side of the slide edge guide with that of the needle.
    blind stitch adjustment
    Blind Stitch Adjustment
  • Loosen the adjusting lever (1)and turn the adjusting screw depending on the stitch depth.
  • To make the stitch deep, turn the adjusting screw (2)to the right.
  • To make the stitch shallow, turn the adjusting screw(2) to the left.
  • After setting the blind-hemming edge guide, fix the adjusting lever(1)
  • Adjustment of Hemming Operation
    Adjustment of Hemming Operation
  • Make the standard height of the blind-hemming edge(3) 2 mm above the top of the cloth plate. Loosen the screw(4) to adjust the height to feed a heavy weight fabric smoothly.
  • Loosen the screw(5) and move the hemming positioner(6) right or left to adjust the hemming width.
  • Safety of Blind Stitch Machine:

    This machine can only be used for the blind stich purpose. Other uses of this machine are not allowed. Any modification or conversion made on this machine must be conformed with the safety standards and regulations.  Precaution is necessary. For the safety of operators and services persons, please don’t open the cover of any electronic control boxes of the motor or other devices and don’t touch any components inside to avoid electrical shock hazards. Please never operate this machine without belt cover, figure guard or any safety devices to avoid physical injury.

    Conclusion:

    This type of machine is not used for normal purpose of sewing machine stitches. But for making a complete garment their importance cannot be denied. So, Automatic Blind Stitch Sewing Machine  very popular in the garments industries.

    [1] Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com