Cloth Cutting Machine room is the key area in garment manufacturing. Each and every process of the cutting room has being monitor and controlled by the quality team to assure the customers specification.
GSM & Shade band Maintain
For each lot of the fabric GSM & Shade Band is maintaining by the quality team. For shade band swatch size is about 4”x4” and it indicates the roll number too. Before start cutting process responsible cutting quality person will compare Shade Band with the approval and approve it for production. If there is any discrepancy will hold the rolls, and informed to higher authority or return to fabric stores. Final decision to these reject rolls will be taken by the Quality manager and the General Manager of the operation.
Cutting Process
Fabric relaxing
Before laying each fabric roll is being relaxed to avoid shrinkage of the cut panels after cut. For different fabrics will use different duration as bellow
Fabric type Roll form Bale form
Single jersey (cotton) 12 06
Single jersey (Lycra) 24 12
Rib 24 12
Micro 12 08
Nylon 20 08
Simplex 24 12
During the start of the relaxing “relaxing sticker” being apply to each and every roll and it states fabric relax start time and relax finish time to avoid cutting non relaxed rolls.
Further relevant quality person is responsible to allow approve fabric rolls being relaxing comparing to shade band and responsible to check widthwise and lengthwise shade variation. If there is running shade (widthwise & lengthwise) need to hold the particular fabric roll. These hold rolls are being cutting using different type of marker such as “short marker or narrow marker” etc to avoid cut panel shading with the advice of quality manager.
Marker checking
Marker checking Quality Controller is responsible for the checking markers with the original patterns before releasing to production. QC will randomly check each size one garment parts before confirm it. He is responsible for checking width & length of the marker too.
Laying
Quality Controller is responsible for assure cleanliness of the cutting table before start layering. Before start layering paper is put on the cutting table to avoid the possible damages of fabric due to sharp parts.
QC is responsible to audit all rolls has been properly relaxed by checking relaxing sticker. Further QC has assure correct lot & roll being laying by checking the lot number & roll number of the fabric rolls and cross-check the fabric rolls with the shade bands to assure the shade wise cutting.
During laying audit QC will check number of layers, length of the layer, assure the paper separator is use for each roll finish and correct lay tension has been applied during each layering.
During the layering QC has to assure red “tape system” is follow by the production team when fabric fault observed to minimize possible fabric faults go into sewing. After QC confirms layering has being done accurately he has to authorize for cutting.
Finally all lay summary report has to maintain by the QC for management information.
Cutting
In Auto Textile have both straight & band knife facility for cutting. Straight knife we do only layer separation and our cutting complete on the band knife.
After band knife cutting, do 10% random inspection to assure the cut work quality. First QC select randomly cut pieces of each size from bundle (cut cake) and check cut mark depth & its position is correct and shape of the cut comparing to the pattern. After that he will check top, middle & bottom of the cut for the cutting accuracy. If random inspection fails will arrange 100% cut panel inspection to sort out bad cuts.
Bundling
First step in bundling is to separate cut bundle into roll-wise. Then cut work will separate into bundles. This stage bundling QC will conduct random inspection to assure correct quantity, correct parts, correct trims are being put into the bundle. If there is any discrepancy will conduct 100% bundle inspection to sort out the issue.
Documents
Each stage of the process respective quality person will responsible for making reports and documents. All these documents are being files in the cutting department and MIS reports are being generates where necessary.
Cutting quality in-charge is responsible for maintain quality standard as well as all these documents as management advice. Further each and every style shade band, GSM report and all other documents being maintained in a style wise.
Note: Shade will be checked under the buyers’ reference light source in light box.
The objective of this report is to visit different departments, to learn about their organogram, activities, process flow and so on. After the study I have gathered a brief knowledge about them, which will help me in future to decision making and to do my job properly. There are 6 departments here. They are:
Central store
Fabric store
Cutiing section
Sewing section
Finshing section
R & D department
Central store
Different types of labels are mentioned below:
Care label
Main label
RN label
Bar code label
Country label
Flag label, etc
Categories of label are mentioned below:
Woven label
Shertin label
Paper label, etc
Different types of buttons are mentioned below:
Snap button
Plastic button
Pearl button
Metal button
Pig nose button
Chalk button , etc
Sewing threads are mentioned below:
100% cotton
Filament thread, etc
Needle sizes are mentioned below:
DB- 7
DB-8
DB-9
DB- 10
DB—11
DC- 7
DC- 8
DC- 9
DC- 10
DC-11
DP- 5.9
DP- 5.10
DP- 5.11
DP * 17* 11
DP * 17* 14
VY- 8
VY- 9
VY- 10
VY- 11
Accessories of central store are:
Trim card
Hanger
Button
Shartin Tape
Mobilon tape
Sewing thread
Poly
Gum tape
Scotch tape
Security tape
P belt
Sewing machine troubleshooting:
To check label color-wise and on the basis of order quantity.
Conclusion: The necessary things of 6 departments of the factory are mentioned above. From which one can gain a brief knowledge about them.
Details about process and joining inlay with using needle and possible defects and solution:
Collar joint:
Body inlay
Collar inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
7 MM
7MM
11, 14 –DP/DB
PLAIN MACHINE
Front joint:
Back yoke inlay
Front (upper, lower) inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
9MM
11 – DB / DP
1/32 Top stc- P/ MACHINE
O/L WIDTH /9MM
O/L WIDTH
11 -DC
Over lock
SLV joint:
Body inlay
Slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
6MM
18-19 MM
14
1 cm French seam
9MM
9MM
14 -DC
Over lock
1 CM
1 CM
14 -TV
Feed of the arm
SLV Rolling
slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9 MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
5 MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
WELTED – ¼ / 5MM
SLV seam
Slv seam inlay (both end)
Used needle
Stitching style
O/L WIDTH
14 – DC
OVER LOCK
1 CM
14 – TV
FEED OF THE ARM
GENBOL
slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Cuff joint:
slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
LOWER
Lower Rolling
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Front placket:
Front placket inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
1/14 welted – 7-8 MM
14- UO
KANSAI
Side seam:
Back part
Front (up / low)
Used needle
Stitching style
1 CM
1 CM
14 – TV
Feed of the
9 MM
9 MM
14 – DC
Over lock
Slv placket:
slv inlay
Slv placket inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9 MM
9 MM
9 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Pocket:
Pocket inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
8 MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Btm Hem
Btm Hem inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
1.5 CM
14 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Back yoke joint
Back part
Yoke (top / inside)
Used needle
Stitching style
9 MM
9 MM
14 – DB / DP
Over lock
NOTE: – DP & DB needle are used for same purpose but btm of DP needle is thick and that’s why according to machine needle adjustment DP is used thick hole of needle setting machine.
Information about bobbin and guide used at sewing machine
Guide
Guide is used according to stc at Gmts.
¼, 1/8, 3/8, 1/16, 1/32 etc and plain guide.
Some time for sewing according to measurement some fid is used at machine.
For lower rolling this is seen and some other if need.
Bobbin
Bobbin is used at machine at inside for lock the top side stc with its strength.
It is used according to machine. Information is given below
Except these mentioned machine bobbin is used for all machine
For check fabric vertical checks are called warp & horizontal checks are called weft.
A zipper has four parts:
Runner
Chain
Fabric (cotton / polyester)
Stopper
Note: fabric use in zipper almost of polyester because of its longer lasting.
Information about front placket
There are three kinds of front placket:
Welted kansai
Frence seam double fold
Hidden placket.
Information about thread for per inch
Conclusion
If S.P.I is 11 then it is calculated that for one inch we need 2.5 inch thread. Tread spin count classification: Two types of spin count: s spin count and z spin count. Sewing machine troubleshooting is important factor for any garments
Best Sewing Box, this will be used to transfer used and broken needles from the lien to the Tools and Sharps distribution room. To be introduced. To make sure that all metal equipment such as needles, hand sewing needles, kimball guns, scissors, snips, pins, etc. is held under control during the manufacturing processes and that all products manufactured for Buyer do not contain any hazardous metal materials that could harm the customers. This procedure is applicable to all our ready-to-wear suppliers.
Procedure of Best Sewing Box
All sharps and needles are stored in the secured Needle distribution room within the maintenance room within each manufacturing facility.
The central needle stock warehouse will distribute replenishment stock to each Needle Distribution room every 7 days.
Start of each work week the “Custodian” will count the starting stock before any issuance to ensure accuracy.
The Needles will be placed into its respective colour coded section in the box. The allocation slot will be the same for each distribution box.
The Issuance record sheet shall be updated and crossed check to ensure accuracy prior to distribution.
Normal needle change. The Custodian will only distribute new needles to a Line Supervisor (Line Leader) in exchange for the following:
Regular needle change
Bent needle
New style layout
The supervisor will use the Needle transfer safe box to transport needles from the lines to the tools and Sharps distribution room. The box can hold more than one needle; the box is divided into a pre numbered section, the individual section will ensure integrity of different type needles or broken needle fragments.
For exchange needles the custodian will take receipt of the old needle, tape onto the used needle log sheet (QAUNCL0001) and issue a new needle. Ensuring a signature/ID is place in the appropriate space on the form.
Broken needle procedure
The supervisor (Line leader) will take the needle fragments to the custodian for checking against the correct Needle reference card
If all needles fragments are intact then the custodian will attach the fragments to the Broken Needle Control sheet The supervisor (Line leader) will receive the new needle; place it in the Needle transfer safe box, then sign the Broken Needle Control sheet .
In cases of missing fragments the supervisor (Line leader) will check product within 1 meter of the machine (Left – Right – Front – back) using a hand held metal detector.
Using the retractable magnet check the same 1 meter radius of the machine. Including the sewing area and oil pan for any fragments.
The supervisor (Line leader) will take the fragments in the Needle transfer safe box and hand them over to the custodian. The custodian will attach the fragments to the Broken Needle Control sheet . The supervisor (Line leader) will receive the new needle; place it in the needle transfer safe box, then sign the Broken Needle Control sheet .
The Missing needle check list procedure will be followed: step #1 through to #5
#1 Check all areas and machine including the garments in the area (1 meter radiu
#2 Identify whether fragment found or not (move to #3) If found the needle will be issued, the garments will be returned to the sewing line.
#3 If not found all garments from the workstation will be sent to the metal detection machine and checked one by one.
#4 If still not found it will go for signature of the PM/APM. The full piece/bundle will be placed inside the Needle transfer safe box, placed by the metal detection room and a log book record kept
#5 Once 1 – 4 has been completed, the Compliance and QA must sign off the incident then only will the new needle be replenished.
Dependent on buyer requirement: Target request 5 year retention, thus Hop Lun BD will follow 5 year rule.
Responsible Parties
Suppliers: The suppliers are bound to comply with all the conditions stated in this memorandum and take necessary precautions in the light of warnings provided.
Buyer Auditors: Buyer auditors will pay random visits to the suppliers to make sure that the suppliers comply with all the conditions stated in this procedure.
General requirements
The equipment that has been given to the operators by the Department Supervisors should be attached to work benches to stop accidental loss.
The supervisors must check equipment periodically and withdraw any equipment found not fit for purose.
Only the supervisors or nominated personnel can issue replacement needles, or equipment. Spare needles, kimball guns, scissors are not allowed at the work station.
The supervisors should keep the metal equipment in secured and locked cabinets. The cabinets are always locked and keys are kept only by the supervisors or a nominated employee.
Metal Contamination
Mechanics/operators should pay extra attention to ensure that tools or instruments do not get lost in garments.
Staples ust not be used in any operation or in the sewing room.
Pins must not be used in the packaging of any product.
Razors must not be used as cutters. If cutting of this type is needed, a modeling knife/scalpel with a secure blade must be used.
Scissors and clippers should be tied to the workplace to prevent potential loss within a product. If it is not possible to tie them, then they should be logged in/out at the beginning/end of each shift.
Personal items such as keys, hairgrips, jewellery, etc. cannot be placed on/near machines or/and tables.
If a metal contamination product is found to be contaminated with metal fragments and the metal cannot be found after thorough inspection, then the product must be placed in a sealed locked container labeled Contaminated Stock by the Department Supervisors, and recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet.
Application Of The Broken Needle Policy
All needles must be accounted for in all operations of the manufacturing process. This is ensured with the implementation of the Needle Change Report.
Whenever a needle break occurs, every effort must be made to recover all of the broken pieces before the manufacturing starts again and the products move onto the next process. Needle parts need to be checked against a profile or new complete needle to ensure that all parts are found.
If a needle breaks during a manufacturing process, machine operator should stop working and inform the Department Supervisor. The incident should be recorded with all relevant information on the Broken Needle Report and all parts of the broken needle should be collected immediately and affixed on the report with a large, transparent adhesive tape.
If all parts of a broken needle are not found, then the products on which the operator is working, and any others in close proximity to the machine and workspace must be checked. If all parts are still not found, all products must be removed and packed into a polybag and passed through the metal detector in order to isolate any products containing metal fragments. These products must be thoroughly examined in a quarantined area until the missing needle parts are found. This must be recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet. If, for any reason, all parts of the needle cannot be found, the products need to be put into a sealed locked container labeled Contaminated Stock and must be recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet accordingly.
New needle can only be attached to the machine when the broken needle is found and accounted for. Then the machine operator can continue working.
Broken Needle Reports must be kept for a minimum of three years, and there after disposed off in sealed containers. Buyer Auditors will check these reports randomly.
Conclusion
The Tools and Sharps distribution room must be completely locked at all times of Needle transfer safe box
The custodian is the only authorized person to enter the room.
Exception internal audits or Buyer audit
Compliance department is responsible to ensure all aspects of the procedure are being followed through continuous audit.
The Custodian directly reports to the maintenance manager and functionally to the QA manager
The GM will follow up on the audits of the Metal free policies, one a month
The GM will ensure that all staff will be trained with reference to the Metal free policies
Organizational chart for Best Sewing Box tools distribution room.
Jack and Jones, Kimber Sewing Machine Ltd., Africa
A hi-speed lockstitch sewing machine is the best common mechanical system stitch made by the sewing machine. The term of single needle stitching often found on dress shirt labels, referering to lockstitch machine. The height of needle from its lowest position of upward stroke when the hook point reach at the center line of needle.
Feature of Lockstitch Machine
Most common machine for woven garments
More secured sewing
No of needle:1 or 2
SPM:1500-5500
Stitch Density is variable, max. stitch length 5mm
Different types of feed mechanism (Puller Feed, Top AND bottom Feed etc.)
Automatic bobbin winder and thread trimmer present in some of the versions.
Needle Replacement: Check whether the needle of hi-speed lockstitch sewing machine is bent or blunt or not. If it is bent or blunt change the needle and install it under the supervision of maintenance personnel.
Rotary hook: Clean the tail of thread of hi-speed lockstitch sewing machine dust and lint in the rotary hook and bobbin case.
Lubrication:Lubricate the lockstitch sewing machine parts where necessary.
Time required: 10 minutes.
Cleaning the bobbin case and other possible parts: Clean the lint, loose thread and other dirt from the shuttle of bobbin and bobbin case. Besides the table and other parts which cannot effect the setting must be cleaned.
Required time: 5 minutes.
Lockstitch Machine Weekly Maintenance:
Done by : Maintenance Personnel
Supervised by: Maintenance Manager
Criteria:
Needle – Hook point timing: Check whether the needle of lockstitch – hook point timing is correct or not. If there lies miss-timing then adjust it.
The check points are
Needle – hook point clearance
At the same time the distance between the hook point and the top end of the needle eye.
Required time: 10 minute.
The clearance between bobbin case holder and bobbin case holder bracket: Check the clearance between the bobbin case and bobbin case holder bracket (1-1.5mm). Make sure that the hook will not touch bobbin case holder bracket of lockstitch mc.
Required time:5 minutes.
Presser foot pressure: Check whether the pressure of presser foot of lockstitch is proper or not. If not adjust it by adjusting the distance between the bottom washer and top of pressure bar guide bracket. And the bottom of work clamp must be kept parallel to the top of the work.
Required time: 5 minutes
Thread take-up amount: Check the amount of the thread take-up stroke, clearance between needle thread and thread take-up lever guide (.5-1 mm). Make sure that it is not more than necessary.
Required time: 5 minutes
Needle & bobbin thread tension adjustment: Check whether the standard operating range of thread take-up spring of lockstitch mc is accurate or not (6-8 mm). The tension at appropriate operating range must be checked.
Required time: 5minute.
Needle installation: It must be remembered during needle installation of lockstitch mc that the long groove of the needle is on the left and tightened with the needle clamping screw. Adjust the needle clearance and lift amount.
Required time: 2 or 3 minute.
Stitch Length: Check whether the lockstitch length is appropriate or not. If not , push the reverse feed lever halfway down, turn the dial until desired number align the pin at top and release the reverse feed lever. It is remembered that the number, the longer the stitch length will be and the reverse sewing device is the automatic-resetting type.
Required time: 2 or 3 minute.
Needle Bar height: It is remembered that when the needle bar is in its lowest position the reference line on the must be at the lower end of the containing the needle bar. If it is not so, remove the needle plate, loosen the needle bar connecting stud clamping screw and adjust by raising or lowering the needle bar.
Required time: 10 minute.
Adjstment of Pressure on the material (fabric): The pressure on the material during sewing must be as weak as possible, but strong enough so that the material does not slip. Adjust the pressure through loosing the adjustment nut.
Required time: 5 minute.
Feed Dog Height: The standard height of the feed dog for sewing thin material is 0.8 mm, and for medium material is 1.00 mm and for thick material is 1.2 mm (when the stitch length is set to the maximum).
Adjust the feed dog height by loosening the screw when the feed dog is above the needle plate surface and move the feed lifting arm up and down.
Required time: 5 minute.
Feed dog angle: in order to prevent puckering, material from slipping the feed dog is to be raised or lowered downward at standard angle.
When the feed dog angle has been adjusted, check to confirm that the height of feed dog has not changed.
Required time: 5 minute.
Presser foot height: The standard height of the presser foot is 6 mm when the presser foot is raised with presser foot lifter lever. To adjust the presser foot height, loosen the nut of the adjustment screw and then the presser foot adjustment screw so that no pressure will be applied to the presser foot, then loosen the set screw and adjust the presser foot height by raising or lowering the presser bar.
Required time: 5 minute.
Lockstitch Machine Monthly Maintenance
Oil replacement and other interrelated checks:
Check lubricant or oil whether that is to replace.
Check bush leakage, oil seal leakage or age, vibration of oil and the flow of oil pump more or less than setting.
Check rubber cushion seats, four corners of machine tool groove on which oil pan stands.
Required time: 10 minute.
Rotary hook of plain sewing machine: Check rotary hook wear whether it is need to replace.
Required time: 10 minute.
Presser foot canal: check hi-speed lockstitch sewing machine canal wear. If necessary replace it.
For cutting various type of machine is used like, Band knife cloth cutting machine, straight Knife cutting machine, Round knife machine etc. Band saw safety rules is very important to work with band knife cloth cutting machine. Cutting Section Including Area are – Fabric inspection area, Fabric Relaxation area, Marker making area, Fabric Spreading & Cutting area. In inspection area spirality, shrinkage test, GSM test etc is done. Fabric relaxation is done before cutting. Fabric received from textile. Heat absorbed by fabric and dimension variation is happened. Then fabric keep at normal temperature. Fabric absorb heat from nature and regain its original relax position. Normal relax time is 12hr to 24hr but it vary for different fabric. In cutting section fabric is cutting according to marker plan. Cutting section include fabric inspection, relaxation, spreading and cutting
Objective of cutting:
To cut the fabric according to marker plan.
To ready the fabric for sewing.
Fabric Cutting Procudure:
Table cleaning
Paper spreading
Fabric spreading
Tape attaching
Marker spreading
Cutting
Stickering
Bundling
Cut pannel checking
Ready for Sewing
Personal Band saw safety:
Proper personal protective equipment i.e. gloves, visors, and aprons must be used.
Always wait until the machine is fully stationary.
The knife blade band saw safety is very sharp. Be careful when working near the knife blade.
For maintenance work in extreme height wear safety belts to avoid fall.
Avoid wearing loose wears.
First aid equipment such as first aid kit, stretcher, and dressing material box must be stationed in the vicinity of band saw safety
Carefully observe announce location and operation of fire extinguishers for band saw safety.
Do not operate the equipment in the presence of flammable gases or fumes.
Machine band saw safety rules:
Switch off the machine.
After maintenance work always tighten released screw, nut-bolt connections.
Do not use compressed air on electric and electronic parts directly.
If one of the relay switches malfunctions machine should not be operated.
Conform that the voltage and phase are correct.
Do not use compressed air on electric and electronic parts directly.
Do not usually use emergency buttons to stop the machine. Use the buttons only in real emergencies.
Conform that the power plug is properly connected to flow up band saw safety rules
Safety Rules
Daily Maintenance – Band Knife Cloth Cutting Machine:
Clean the whole machine.
Remove the knife and clean the knife slides with the slot cleaner included with machine.
To prevent undue accumulation of lint do not oil the plate rollers. If the rollers stick, remove them from the plate and wash them in cleaning solvent.
Clean and oil the guides and bearings.
Check the wear of the lateral and the back roller, to see if it’s necessary to replace them.
Check the electrical wiring system.
Check the motor pulley guard.
Check the machine pullet guard.
Check all the screw & nut & Bolt.
Weekly Maintenance – Band Knife Cloth Cutting Machine:
Check and put oil if necessary all the joints.
Oil level check and refill.
Use an approved air hose or bellows to blow any lint from around the motor and sharpener.
Remove the cover and clean any lint from around the screw mechanism in the sharpener.
Apply one drop of oil only on the specified location at tubes, shaft pulley, and belt pulley.
Check the motor pulley & machine pulley guard.
Electrical wiring should be check.
Monthly Maintenance – Band Knife Cloth Cutting Machine:
Carry out the daily and weekly lubrication schedules.
Remove the plug and insert a grease tube. Squeeze an amount of grease approximately the size of a pea into the opening.
Check the tightness of the operating handle to ensure a secure connection.
Check the sharpener and the sharpener lever sharpener belt.
Check the knife and if necessary change.
Check the bevel on both sides of the knife. Readjust if necessary.
Clean all the grease and dirty from the Sharpening Assembly, with compressed air, as well as from the Sharpening Motor Belt.
Check the wear of the sharpening belt and change them if necessary.
Process sequence in cutting quality:
Fabric inspection report.
Dimension test result report (shrinkage test).
Shade approved checked report.
Finished GSM report.
Fabric relax report.
Marker checked report.
Color quantity shade record (Buy: H&M).
Spreading quality control.
Cutting quality control.
Cut panel inspection report.
Daily cut panel non conforming report.
Collar cuff inspection report.
Embroidery inspection report.
Print inspection report.
Print & embroidery wash report.
Pre–cutting production meeting.
Man Power Utilization – Method One:
In cutting section 8 man use for 600 cm length and 176cm width lay spread.
Here avg.40.39 sec use for 1lay spread.
In spreading time cutter man cut fabric edge, gather and throughing time is avg. 18.68 sec
When cutter man cut fabric lay within this cutting time all worker finished their work.
All worker waiting avg. 9.09sec after lay giving.
This waiting time is fabric gathering and throughing time for lay cutting man.
So 9.09 sec is non productive time for 7 worker.
I mean 7 worker use for lay spreading place of 8 worker.
Then worker can not wait for work. Non productive time will be less.
1 worker will reduction in this process is possible.
Man Power Utilization – Method One
Result: 1 man power reduce. Cost Reduction: 6000 taka per month
Man Power Utilization – Method Two:
In cutting section 8 man use for manual fabric spread. And 6 man use for auto spreading.
When fabric is spreading by machine then workers use pipe for spread uniformly on table.
For using pipe less time need for spreading.
If we use pipe for manual method then less time required for spreading.
And less man power required 6 person use place of 8 person.
Because 5 person use pipe for uniform spread and 1 for lay band knife cloth cutting machine.
Man Power Utilization – Reduction
Result: 2 man power reduce. Cost Reduce: 2*6000tk=12000tk per month
Band knife cloth cutting machine can applied for the above band saw safety rules
There are different types of needles are developed day to day. In the early history of the human instinct of self-defense based, and made Clothes. Production technology was also very simple, is to use an awl made of animal bones do. Stitched weapon, these bones may only be used to pre-piercing cone to Lipi Sheng or Through the vines. The use of animal bones, horn, ivory manufacturing. Made by bone, horn, ivory. 17500 BC in the first hole of the needle has come out root. Manufacturing 3500 BC copper is used in the needle. 1000 BC iron began to be applied to enhance hardness than in the past many. You can visit more about some types of needles replacement system
Medical types of needles (surgery, minimally invasive surgical needles, acupuncture, medical america)
Instrument with a needle (flute, saxophone with a needle )
Electronic semiconductor with a needle (air filters, discharge needle, probe)
Nonwoven (needles)
Finishing with a needle
Hand stitches
Needle arts (ceramics, quilting)
Bur
Computerized embroidery needles
Schiffli lace with a embroidery needles
Costume with a needle (underwear, jeans, knitted …)
Leather (footwear) with a needle
Bindings with a needle
AD 1851 FRED. SCHMETZ GMBH (Blue Lion) was founded in Germany? Country Anchen
Types of needles
METAL CONTAMINATION
The in charge or nomination person should hold all the spares in a secured location, and only he shall be permitted to allocate to the operators.
Mechanics must ensure that no needles are left on the machines after servicing
The operator must not hold any spare needles.
The issues of needles against broken needle should be one for one basis.
Old and worn needles should be disposed off securely in a sealed container.
If a needle breaks, all parts must be found or case defined (in case part of the fragments cannot be found) before the work is allowed to continue. The in charge must ensure that proper searches have been carried out if all the parts of the needle have not been located.
Major industrial burs manufacturers with Butterfly Needle:
SCHMETZ (Blue Lion): engaged in production in Germany and India.
GROZ-Beckert (Baker): engaged in the production or testing in Germany or India.
ORGAN (organ): engaged in production in Japan and Vietnam.
ORANGE (orange card): South Korea engaged in production.
TNC (Triumph Needle): engaged in production in Taiwan
Dotec (Dott needle): Production in Zhangzhou, Fujian
World every year on average produce about 600,000,0000 support industrial burs
Production Process of All Types of Needles:
Production Process
Triumph Needle Company (TNC):
Tricyclic needles in 1978 in collaboration with the Japanese company Green wooden needles
1988 Triumph Needle Corp. (TRIUMPH NEEDLE CORP.)
And West Germany Aires card (Lammertz needle GmbH.) Technical cooperation
Major markets: China, Thailand, the Middle East, South America, Vietnam, more than 47 countries
Address: Taipei, Taiwan
Second, the material analyzed :/ Material report:
The company uses the best steel in Germany, with the most well-known of the Blue Lion needle (SCHMETZ NEEDLE) is the same supplier and is the same material, the German number is N100, similar to the Japanese steel SK3, is a high-carbon steel, but the difference is to add a small amount of N100 Cr (chromium), V (V) and Mn (manganese) alloys after heat treatment makes for a better performance in terms of hardness and toughness. N100 and the P (phosphorus), the impurity content of S (sulfur) can be said to approach zero, the purity is far better than the other countries in the current steel. It is the ball of the organization doing the best companies all over the world
Neede Illustration :
Needle ilustration
DBM: Blade diameter
HKFR:Length of scarf
DBO:Width of eye side
LAO:Butt to eye length
DDC:Tapered part diameter
LC:Shank to shoulder length
DK:Shank diameter
LDC:Shank to tapered part length
HT:Depth of scarf
LG:Total length
LK:Length of shank
OB:Eye width
OL:Length of eye
RBL:Width of groove
RGL:Depth of blade diameter without depth of groove
STEG: Depth of blade diameter without both sides depth of groove
Needlepoint Kits – Sharp Point:
Sharp point means:- Tip of the Needle looks like “V” shape.
Sharp Point
Needlepoint Kits – BALL POINT:
Ball point means:- Tip of the Needle looks like “U” shape.
Cause of Needle Cut:
Needle Size.
Size & Shape Of Needle Ball.
Needle Blade System & Shape.
How Can We Remove Needle Cut ?
Smaller needle size
Slim kn
KN+SPI
KK+KN
SPI POINT
Skipped Stitches:
Larger Needle Size
NY Needle
USP Shape Needle
USP Needle
Seam Puckering
Smaller needle size
Slim kn
Spi point
KN+SPI
KK+KN
Seam Puckering Construction Rules:
Must be use correct needle for the material/ product, e.g. rounded top of needle on knits
Must not use needles with blunt point, this to avoid fabric damage
Must stitch density should generally be 4 – 5 stitches/ cm, 10 – 12.5 stitches/ inch but must
be suitable for the specific product and thread
Must all exposed seams must be over-locked or covered with binding/ tape, if no other instructions have been given
Must have elasticity on seams matching to the product’s quality
Must use suitable thread tension/ elasticity matching to the material/ product
Must have an even and equal length on stitches
Seam puckering must use 4 thread over lock
Must have an even seam allowance, minimum 7 mm wide, after over locking. Width on seam
Seam puckering must allowance must be suitable for the actual material, e.g. some heavy knits need wider
Must seam allowance to keep stable
Must have no puckering/ stretched out seams, if no other instructions has been given
Must not have joint stitches at visible areas
Seam puckering must have tape/ reinforcement at shoulder seams
Must be stretchable enough to meet minimum extended neck measurement
Must 2 – needle top stitches should be made by 2-needle machine
Needle Selection Logic:
The external structure of the first election of the first needle. A. nature of the car object.
Soft and hard
Thick and thin
Fever or heat degree
Impact resistance B. Sewing Machine want to accomplish a step performance needle hole as small as possible (breakage rates may be higher) Measures: SPI, KN, KN + SPI, or drop the more straight stitch one. b better. (rigid needle is better) responses enhanced needle dry, a bigger needle
is the car color or adhesive under layer material not to be brought to the surface (decrease destructive) Measures: KN + SPI, HS + CL + CM design
functional or decorative effect (touch, thick line) Countermeasures : S, LR, LE
holes to increase the rate of low-jumper (and outlet must be high, hook line space to more) Measures: USP design
After the election of the structure, with a fit of the coating, further extending the life of the needle or
lower penetration resistance of titanium Long life ceramic membrane
Long life, reducing heat generation
Polymer film anti-adhesion, reduce heat to produce
diamond films – long life, anti-adhesion, reducing heat generation
Application of Butterfly Needle:
Sharp round point : Standard for blind stitch needles. For precise stitch sequences in lockstitch operations. A sensitive point, susceptible to damage.
Sharp Round
Example: Blouses, fine skirts and trousers, curtains
Round point with slightly rounded tip: Standard for all chain stitch operations
Round Point
Example: For fine, sensitive knitted fabrics, micro fiber, multi head embroidery
Regular round point: Most common for all kinds of lockstitch applications particularly for woven fabrics, artificial leather, coated fabrics.
Regular Point
Example: Shirts, trousers, various kinds of garments
Light ball point: For knitted fabrics and for wovens.
Example: T-shirts, underwear, fine sweaters
Application of Butterfly Needle 3 Point
Medium ball point: For elastic fabrics with Rubber or elastomeric contents.
Example: Sweaters, lace, under wear, Schiffli embroidery
Heavy ball point: For very coarse and open structured elastic fabrics.
Example: Sweaters, cardigans
Special ball point: For warp fabrics with high elastomeric contents.
Example: Underwear, orthopedic Clothes
Special ball point: For Schiffli embroidery applications.
Example: Curtains, tablecloth
Coating Needles:
Reduce Adhesion Trouble
Ceramic Coating Needle (CM)
Diamond Like Film Coating Needle (DLC)
Heat Proof Coating Needle (HP)
PVD Coating Needle
KN+SPI Needle
Coating needles
Features Titanium Needles:
HV 2000 ultra-high hardness
Beyond corrosive resistant stainless steel
Durable high penetration
Reduce the cost of the best weapon
2-3 times the life of traditional titanium needles
