What is Clothes Folding Machine & Fabric Folding Machine?

What is Clothes Folding Machine & Fabric Folding Machine?

Clothes Folding Machine

This is a textile machinery works as fabric folders used in textile factory or textile mills. This machine is specially designed primarily for the folding of fabric and textile design. Clothes folding machine is mainly used for folding cloth. These clothes folding machines are easy in operation and perform smoothly without noise. Cloth folding machines are easy to use, robust construction, low maintenance, durable and reliable and Long service life. It also used for home textile for making textile fabrics. Clothes folding machine is used after Compactor Machine.

Function of Cloth Folding Machine :

Function of cloth folding machine in textile factory is given here-

  • This cloth folding machine  is working as fabric folders in Textile Company as well as in home textile,
  • Doubling, lapping, measuring the fabrics with inlet from plait or loose fabrics, rolls or batchers as well as for outlet,
  • Foot switch is used for withdraw the finished fabrics to send the empty sword plate in home textile as well as in textile industry,
  • Hard or loose folding feature, due to torque controlled by industrial machinery

Specifications of Fabric Folding Machine:

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“][label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product CategoryFinishing
Machine CategoryFold Machine
Product Namefabric folding machine
Product ModelAccording to Manufacturer
Product ClassNew
OriginChina/India/Others
Brand/Manufacturerindustrial machinery for textile company
Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
Power380V , 1.1+10kw
TemperatureNormal
CertificationSGS/Others
Production Capacity20 Sets/Month
Max pleat width1650mm
Pleat speed0—100pleat/min
Motor power1.1KW
Electric heating power10KW
Dimension3200x1650x1820mm
Gross weight1400KG
DescriptionThe process of  textile fabrics are suitable for creating different types of clothing,skirt,scarf,covers and various adornments in textile company

INSPECTION AND FOLDING

The main function of this department is fabric folding or rolling of fabric .This is the department where the quality of the raw material and the finished product is checked .This department consist of testing, inspection & folding.

Fabric is so obtained is inspected and packed for selling purpose .It involves 5 steps:

  1. Inspection
  2. Grading
  3. Cutting plan
  4. Packing
  5. Faults observed

PROCEDURE:

Cloth roll

inspection machine

folding machine

grading

packaging

VARIOUS INSPECTION SYSTEMS

  • 10 –point system(Japanese system)
  • 4-point system (American system)

Here the system used is 4 point system .In the system, the faults are categorized on the basis of faults length as show below:

0-3 inches ——– 1 point

3-6 inches——–2 point

6-9 inches——-3 point

9 inches & above——-4 point

Here according to the length of the faults ,each faults is assigned respective points. A total 38 points per 100m clothes are acceptable .The pieces with more than 38 points per 100m is rejected .The faults with 4 points are considered as major damages and that with single points are considered as miner damages.

MACHINES IN FOLDING

  1. INSPECTION MACHIENS –There are total 9 inspection machines for the fabric inspection. The manufacture is ALMAC. The speed of the inspection is kept 20-25 mpm.
  2. FOLDING OR FLATING MACHINES- There is 2 folding machines used for forming the bale of the fabric.
  3. ROLLING MACHINE- there is one rolling machine for forming the roll of cloth.
  4. BALE PRESSING MACHINE-there are two bale-pressing machines for pressing the bale.
  5. MENDING TABLE-there are two mending table for reworking i.e. for mending the damages if possible.

INSPECTION:

It is done in a American style i.e. 4 points system

0-3 inch damage is considered as 1 point

3-6 inch damage is considered as 2 point

6-9 inch damage is considered as 3 point

9 inch damage is considered as 4 point

FRC:

It is given to the small pieces which can also be sold in 50 kg bag.

Frend name is given to piece if length is in 60-90 cm.

Rags name is given to piece if length is in between 30-60cm.

Chindi name is given to piece if length is in between 0-30cm.

GRADING:

Grading is done in order to differentiate between good quality material and poor quality material .Different grade which are given to denim fabric are:

Grades       D.P/100yd2           major point          peace length          part

Ultimo        10                        ———-                   80-125                  1

Platinum     10                           1                          80-125                   1

Gold              20                          3                          80-125                    1-2

Fresh             40                          5                          80-125                    1-2

SSI                  40                          6                          80-125                   1-2

2nd                            6015                       80-125                   1-4

2SL                 60                            15                      80-125                   NA

2S3V         shade variation           NA                     80-125                 NA

2SV            continuous defect      NA                     80-125                NA

CUTTING PLAN:

Cutting plan is made in accordance with the number and type of defects.

PACKING:

Packing for despatch able material is done in continuous by machine of LPDE sheet which is used for protecting the material from moisture and damage. Package is done mechanically by machine named after the company PENGUIN-COIMBATORE having rpm 1500 .The threading diagram is as follows:

FAULTS NOTED IN FOLDING:

  • MINOR FAULTS: This includes slubs, stains and contamination.
  • MAJOR FAULTS: This include the faults like bent pick, double  pick , thick pick, stain mark , oily weft.

Feature of Textile Machinery:

The features of textile machinery for making textile fabrics is described below-

fabric folding machine
Folding Machine
  • Easy to operate textile fold machine type of textile machinery
  • Low power consumption for this type of textile machinery during checking of  textile fabrics
  • High efficiency
  • Textile machinery is made by steel sheets by welding and edge folding.

[1] Jamal Uddin Ahmed Tanjil  B.Sc in Textile Engineering, Email : jahmedtanjil@gmail.com

List of Sewing Machine. Parts of a Sewing Machine

List of Sewing Machine. Parts of a Sewing Machine

Definition & List of Sewing Machine

Sewing machine is a machine  is developed by Bernina, juki, janome, elna, pfaff which is used to stitch fabric, cards or other materials together with thread. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed  though some are made without cutters. Overlock stitches are very versatile, as they can be used for adornment,  einforcement. The people should be trained  how to use a sewing machine.

List of Sewing Machine.

List of sewing machine of sewing machine is given below –

Different types of sewing machine:

In this factory different types of sewing machine are available. By using them they perform different operations. Some of them and their purposes are mentioned below are mentioned below:

hem
Hem

SNLS (Single Needle Lock Stitch) – Used to perform all types of tacks

O/L (Over-lock) – Used to join two part like; side seam, sleeve join, shoulder join etc.

F/L (Flat-lock) – Used to perform all forms of hem, zigzag and top stitch

Button attach- For attaching buttons

Button hole- To make hole for button

Snap button –

Bar tack – For the purpose of bar tack

Thread trimmer – For trimming thread

Piping Cutter – for the purpose of cutting piping

Back tape machine – To attach back tape

Types of stitch: Hemming: Hems give edges (like necklines and the ends of sleeves and pant legs) a smooth, completed appearance.

Zigzag: These can slow down raveling along the edges of seams.

zigzag
zigzag

Basting: A longer length straight stitch, basting is faster and easier to tear out than normal stitching.

Backstitch: This classic stitch works great for holding fabric together—even large pieces that have to take a lot of strain.

Backstitch
Backstitch

Tacking: Tacking is any sort of casual stitch that holds small areas fabric in place, sort of like a soft, permanent safety pin. The whip stitch (shown below) works well for this.

Tacking
Tacking

Other types of stitch which are commonly done are mentioned below:

  1. Chain stitch
  2. Saddle stitch
  3. Slag stitch/ blind stitch
  4. Tiny over-lock

Parts of the machine: Parts of some the sewing machines are mentioned below:

Flat-lock:

  1. Tension post- 5
  2. Hand wheel
  3. Cotton stand
  4. 3/2/1 needle
  5. Needle bar
  6. Feed dog
  7. Paddle

Among the 5 tension posts two for looper, spreader is attached with the top 2. Where 3 for needle.

SNLS:

  1. Hand wheel
  2. Stitch counter
  3. Panel board
  4. Handle for back stitch
  5. Thread take up looper
  6. Switch for back stitch.

Over-lock:

  1. Tension post-4
  2. Guide
  3. Eye guard
  4. Needle-2
  5. Knife

Button attaches:

  1. Tension post
  2. Panel board

Figure of a common type of sewing machine: Guides, attachment and holder: For some specific operations, to make operations more precise and easier guide, attachments and holders are used. Some of them are mentioned below;

For plain machine:

  1. Three types of threads are used. They are:

A -Type (for top stitch)

D – Type (for top stitch)

F – Type (for piping)

  1. Plain pressure feed ( 1/16, 3/16, 1/4, 3/8, 1/32, 1/8)
  2. Gathering guide- Spring guide

Flat guide

Binder folder

For F/L:

Folder- 1fold (5 mm-25mm)

2 fold (5mm- 25mm)

Attachment set 2 types:

  1. F- Type
  2. D- Type

For O/l:

  1. Folder
  2. Rowage gate
  3. O/l type-

4-thread

5- thread

6- thread

Some other types of guides are mentioned below:

  1. Hem and bend folder
  2. Elastic binder
  3. Right angle binding with piping etc.

Process flow layout of Tank top:

  1. Back and front matching
  2. Shoulder joint- 1 side
  3. Label make
  4. Care label joint
  5. Main label joint
  6. Neck binding
  7. Neck tack
  8. Shoulder joint- other side
  9. Shoulder chap tack
  10. Armhole piping
  11. Side seam
  12. Arm hole chap tack

Process flow layout of Polo shirt:

  1. Back and front match
  2. Shoulder joint
  3. Label make
  4. Label joint
  5. Placket rolling
  6. Placket top stitch (1/4)
  7. Placket nose tack
  8. Collar servicing
  9. Collar tack
  10. Collar joint
  11. Back tape attach
  12. Back tape top stitch
  13. Tape tack
  14. Placket top stitch (1/16)
  15. Box tack at placket
  16. Placket box stitch
  17. Cuff joint
  18. Sleeve joint
  19. Side seam
  20. Body hem
  21. Side vent measurement
  22. Side vent tape joint
  23. Side vent top stitch
  24. Side vent chap tack

Process flow layout of basic T- shirt:

  1. Back and front match
  2. Shoulder joint- 1 side
  3. Label joint
  4. Neck binding
  5. Neck tack
  6. Shoulder joint after neck piping
  7. Back tape attach
  8. Back tape tack
  9. Sleeve hem
  10. Sleeve join
  11. Armhole top stitch
  12. Side seam
  13. Sleeve chap tack
  14. V- tack
  15. Labe joint at back part
  16. Body hem

Activity of maintenance department:

  1. The supply power for every mechanism and everything
  2. Dirt, oil and stain are handled by them
  3. At the beginning of new layout machine setup is done by them.

Some terms or formula are used to calculate capacity and productivity:

SMV( Standard minute Value): Time at which a complete garment will be completed by a skilled operator with a proper working environment.

SMV=  Basic time * Allowances

Here, Allowance of SNLS- 19%

F/L and O/L- 20%

Manual operation- 11- 12%

Target / Production= NET/ SM

Where,

N= No. of manpower

E= Expected efficiency

T= Working time

SM= Standard minute

Efficiency = (Standard Hr Produced /Total worked Hr) x 100

=[(No of produced Gmts. x SMV of that Gmt.)/No

of operators x working min] x 100

=SMV x Qty / No. Workers x working min] x100

Line Efficiency = (Total Earned Minutes/ Total Available minutes) x 100

Total Earned Minutes = No of produced Gmts. X SMV of that Gmt.

Total Available Minutes = No of operators x working minutes

Goal of IE:

  1. Productivity increase
  2. Cost minimization
  3. Wastage elimination

Job responsibility of R & D:

  1. Style analysis
  2. Man- machine check
  3. Capacity balancing
  4. New style information
  5. PP( Attending pre- production meeting)
  6. Attending line layout and providing support
  7. To calculate line-wise efficiency
  8. To monitor production
  9. To find out bottle neck
  10. To perform production study
  11. Calculate NPT time and report
  12. Maintenance report
  13. Style change report
  14. Recruitment
  15. Increment
    Worker counseling
  16. To train up the supervisors
  17. Absenteeism report

Parts of a Sewing Machine:  

Parts of a sewing machine is stated below-

Sewing Machine Parts
Parts of Sewing M/C

 

  1. Spool Holder
  2. Bobbin
  3. Bobbin Case
  4. Stitch Length Adjustment
  5. Stitch Tension Adjustment
  6. Stitch Pattern Adjustment
  7. Take up Lever
  8. Presser Foot
  9. Presser foot Lifter
  10. Needle plate and Feed Dogs
  11. Needle and Needle Bar
  12. Bobbin Winder
  13. Power Switch
  14. Hand Wheel
  15. Back-sew Button
  16. Foot Pedal

Each Name on Control Box of Hemmer:

Parts of a sewing machine control box is stated below-

Parts of a sewing machine control box
Parts of a Sewing Machine Control Box
  • Detection Lamp
  • Sensitivity adjusting knob
  • Operation count (rear)
  • Power switch
  • Power Lamp
  • Pressure foot lamp
  • Operation count front
  • Clock Lamp

Sewing Machine Installation Instructions:

Please confirm the followings to avoid malfunction or damage to this machine.

  • After installing the machine and before the first operation please clean it completely.
  • Clean all dust and overflowed oil during transportation.
  • Confirm the voltage and the phase of motor are set correctly
  • Confirm that the power plug is correctly connected to the power supply
  • Never use the machine when the local voltage type is different from the marked volage on the nametag attached on the machine
  • Confirm that the rotating direction of the machine pulley is correct
  • Before dong any operation or any adjustment described later in this manual, please turn the power off to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.
Sewing Machine Installation Instructions
Sewing Machine Installation Instructions

Sewing Machine Safety Instructions:

For operating safely and getting the best functions of this machine, everybody should operate the machine correctly

  • When the machine is ready for operation, all the safety equipment’s must be ready. Operate the machines without the specified safety devices is not allowed.
  • The machine must be operated by a properly trained operator
  • Before using the machine, please ascertain that it conforms with safety standards and regulations of your country
  • For your own safety, we suggest you wearing googles.
  • Do not touch any functioning parts and devices. Always attend t o whether power switch is on or off before operating in order to prevent anyone from getting hurts.
  • Qualified technicians are required for adjustment, modification, and repair. Only use assigned parts for replacement.
  • Routine maintenance and service must be performed by will trained person, or qualified technicians.
  • Maintain and check the electronic parts must be done by qualified or malfunctioned, stop the machine immediately.
  • To ensure the best performance periodically clean the machine is necessary.
  • Select proper power plug and install it by an electrician. Please connect the power plug to grounded receptacle

Standard Operating Procedure For Sewing Machine Floor:

  • Need approved trim card.
  • All patterns should be signature by pattern manager.
  • Duplicate counter sample should be hanged in front of line with counter comments & sample must be signature by sample manager.
  • Must have country plan & shade plan in sewing line.
  • Garments should not keep on the floor.
  • Machine needs to clean in every morning before starting works. If any issue report to mechanic & solve the problem immediately or change the machine.
  • In-seam & out-seam should be sewing from bottom to top.
  • Polyester label & elastic must be cut by heat cutter.
  • 7 pieces audit for covering all machine.
  • Same number parts need to be sewing for each garment.
  • Un-even layer should be control.
  • Twisting should be check/control (100% follow the cut mark).
  • Process QC & end of the line QC should be make report hourly.
  • Floor QC in-charge should be complete styling from every line with counter sample.
  • Needle guard & eye guard should be use for all machines sewing floor.
  • Foods are not allowed inside the sewing floor.
  • Scissors & cutters need to fasten with the machine.
  • All measuring tape should be caliber & need to be change in every three months.
Standard Operating Procedure For Sewing Machine Floor
Standard Operating Procedure For Sewing Machine Floor

Sewing Machine History:

Overlock Sewing Machine

The first sewing machine history is patent connected to mechanical sewing was a 1750 British patent issued to German, Charles Weisenthal and he trained peple how to use a sewing machine. Weisenthal was delivered a patent for a old model needle that was designed for a machine, however, the model did not describe the rest of the machine if one existed.

[1]  Abdullah Al  Chemi, Staff Reporter at Latest Bd News, B.Sc. in Apparel Manufacture & Technology, BUFT
 
What is Digital Sewing Machine? Sewing Machine Maintenance

What is Digital Sewing Machine? Sewing Machine Maintenance

Digital Sewing Machine

Digital Sewing machine is a discovery of digital technology which is used in garments industry.  These machines are programmable machines with digit / digits allow the user to create pieces of design to make their own clothes faster and better than the old style machines. Today’s modern technology and computerized sewing design the  user can be producing artistic needlework in short time by this type of digital electronics

Digital Technology for Computerized Sewing Machine:

The automatic MCD unit of auto sewing machine, complete with sewing machine, is made for sewing the fronts of shirts.
It distinguishes itself for easy to use and the quality of the final product. During stitching, the system aligns the fabric for perfect stitching. The fabric then passed under a heated puller to eliminate wrinkles in the front strip.

Brother Digital Sewing Machine is Digital Technology
Auto Sewing Machine

The machine is surrounded with automatic thread cutting and stacking,  sewing and conveying speed are adjusted electronically of the system. The stitch length can vary from a minimum of 0.9 to a maximum of 35 mm, the sewn stitches are counted electronically using a PLC program.

Benefits of Digital Sewing Machine: 

  1. Anybody can create their own designs with today’s computerized sewing machine.
  2. By using computerized sewing software of computerized sewing machine enables the user to create patterns from a simple chain stitch.
  3. Auto sewing machines of lockstitch can help the business person compete in today’s clothing market.
  4. Garments that would have taken weeks to finish before the auto sewing machine can now be done in a matter of hours
  5. Auto sewing machines offer the user many options to turn around on projects.
  6. Computerized Sewing Machine have built in digitizer
  7. It is also called Computerized Sewing Machine

SOP for Sewing Machine Maintenance:

Maintenance department is headed by maintenance manager. All the maintenance mechanics and other supporting staffs of maintenance department report to the maintenance manager.

Maintenance management system: Machines and spare parts inventory are maintained in this software system. Machinery and spare parts movement between the factories of Lenny are entered in this software and after the entry an auto generated delivery Chelan is created by the software for documentation purpose. In this system we are able to track machinery locations and the complete history of the each and individual machines. In this system we are able to analyze consumption of spare parts and inventory.

Machinery maintenance (Preventive maintenance)

  1. Periodical sewing machine maintenance
  2. Weekly sewing machine maintenance
  3. Daily sewing machine maintenance (Product safety machine special checkup)

Periodical maintenance: Preventive maintenance is very important activities of the maintenance department. This preventive maintenance activity helps in avoiding the unexpected machine breakdowns and it increases the life of the machines. Preventive maintenance was been done as per the schedule made by the maintenance head. Schedule plan will cover whole Lenny in 40 to 45 days.

Weekly maintenance: One line of one factory machines will be checked by the respective line mechanic , in this way we will complete one factory in one week. This rive is called as the maintenance drive. In the maintenance drive , all the machines are been check completely and the  problems found was been rectified immediately and faulty operators are been counseled and trained in maintenance drive.

Daily maintenance: (Product safety machine special checkup): In the daily maintenance the product safety machines like BTN attach , button hole , eyelet hole , snap attach are specially checked by the trained finishing mechanics.

Hang Tag Machine Needle, Hand Needle and Plastic Stapler Needle Control:

  • Needle control policy covers the needle being used in hang tag attach machine and plastic stapler machine.
  • There is only one central position to receive and issue needles to floor, that is maintenance store.
  • Transaction is maintained though software and needles are issued on replaced basis or when all parts are produced to central store.
  • All broken and replaced needles policy are secured in sharp tool control box maintained in central maintenance store.
  • After 06 months the needles are buried in Needle Grave yard.

Used Needle Control:

  • The physically used needle should match our account whatever we issue in the production floor.
  • All the use needle should be keep in our record & maintain the quantity

Needle Accessories Storage

  • From now on a new needle will be issued only when complete parts of a single needle will be submitted.
  • Operators are not getting new needle until complete parts are deposited.
  • Needle issuers at the store have been given strict warning to strictly follow needle control policy/ broken needle policy.
  • As we have seen number of findings regarding needle control issue, we have decided to arrange some refresher training session where all the store staffs will be trained to avoid needle control related problems in future.
  • Respective sewing line manager has been given warning regarding this issue.
  • Actually needle control register is not fake rather some unintentional mistakes of store a store keeper made it look like this. However from now on we will be more careful.
  • Now no garment is passed in final packing area without being metal checked and related register is being maintained strictly.
  • Cutting section has been reorganized and excessive fabric have been moved from dumping situation.
  • Idle cutting machines have been moved away and kept in a separate place.
  • From now on we will keep and lay fabric according to individual color in cutting section.
  • All sorts of carton/ table have been moved to keep path obstacle free.
  • Respective operator was given warning regarding keeping body after stitching.
  • We feel sorry for that. Respective line manager, line chief and supervisor were given strict warning that no future negligence will be tolerated regarding keeping body on the floor.
  • We have checked the whole floor and got rid of all kinds of unauthorized blade or metal movement.
  • Actually we never run production without exhibiting approved sample in the line however in all the Buyer lines we have made approved sample available which is hanged on the line.
  • Accessories storage area has been reorganized and store in-charge has been given proper instruction to avoid any kind of inconsistency between stock register and original balance.
  • Any kind of prohibited chemical has been absolutely banned from spot removing section and respective supervisor has been warned about this matter.
  • There is no back log in packing area now. Finished goods are now properly kept on the rack according to color, style and whatever needed.

Metal Detection Control:

  • Metal detection machine should be calibration two time morning & evening before start the production & keep the proper record
  • Metal detection procedure shall be applicable to kids and JAPAN shipments unless it is specifically mentioned by buyer.
  • Metal detection machine will be keep metal free zone area.
  • Detector must be use 1.2 mm card with the 9 points method.
  • All the garment should be checked detector machine before ship the garments, if found any garment not passed in our detector machine this garments should be kept & log as evidence in Red Box properly.
  • During calibration, if calibration is failed, since we have track of each carton identification, we are able to call back the goods passed through machine in last hour and all garments in those identified cartons needs to be checked 100%

Sewing Machine Maintenance – Needle Detector  :

  • Detector should be calibrated every 1 year & this record should be keep.
  • Maintenance in charge cleaning record should be keep detector machine area.
  • Maintenance should be keep maintenance card.
Mechanical Sewing Machine vs Computerized Sewing Machine

Mechanical Sewing Machine vs Computerized Sewing Machine

Mechanical Sewing Machine & Computerized Sewing Machine :

Mechanical sewing machine is migrating into computerized sewing machine rapidly. A short description is given here about mechanical vs digital sewing machine. Singer use mechanical engineering for mechanical mahine and janome use computerized technology for manufacturing there product and vice versa.  Garments owner purchase sewing machines to progress the efficiency of several sewing tasks. There aere two types of machines are available, mechanical and computerized, which operate differently and contain varying features. Both types can do the basic function of making uniform stitches in fabric using two sources of thread. The decision to purchase one of these machines is heavily based on the customers required functions, skill level, frequency of use.

Mechanical Sewing Machine:

Mechanical sewing machine e.g. singer sewing machine operate on electricity but contain mechanical gears and parts. All of the levers, switches, knobs, and dials require manual control from the user. For adding accessories and parts must be purchased and installed manually. The quality of  sewing machine stitches are different also.

Singer sewing machine
Mechanical Sewing Machines

Computerized Sewing Machine:

Computerized  sewing machine contain microprocessors which is digital technology to control the different program. The Stitches are stored on memory. The computer receive the user’s settings for simple setup and operation. The processes are automatically controlled by the machine after the user inputs the desired instruction. The user can download program from internet and can installed for better work. The latest sewing machine are called portable sewing machine. The latest sewing machine is treated as best sewing machine on the market.

Janome
Computerized Sewing Machines

Standard Operating Procedures of Sewing:

Sewing: It is the process of joining the cut parts by formation of Seams to produce a wearable garment having an acceptable level of Quality Standard described by the Buyer.

Importance of Sewing: Sewing is the Backbone of the apparel manufacturing industry, involving utilization of machines and physical manpower. If the sewing department is functioning properly and production methods are followed correctly, it provides an edge in the industry to survive.

Sewing Department: The following sections constitute the Sewing department:

  • CPU (Small parts are joined together which are sent to assembly)
  • Input Section (Front and Back Parts are prepared)
  • Output Section (Assembly operations comprise the output section)

Each sewing line consists of 1 Input Supervisor, 1 Output Supervisor (Line Manager), 2 Roving Q/C’s and one End Line Q/C to maintain production as well as quality of the output.

portable sewing machine sop
Sewing Machine SOP

Case Study About mechanical sewing machine and Computerized Sewing Machine

Manufacturing System

The manufacturing systems can be divided into 2 types, basically

Push system – Anticipates future demands or needs and what we do today is determined by what we think will be needed at some time in the future. In push system, a schedule is prepared in advance for a series of workstations, each workstation pushes its completed work to next station. The orders are evaluated at supplying location. In this, the stock available at the supplier and the distribution to various retailers is taken into account. It is helpful for accomplishing scheduled production in a non-stop flow. It has redesigned, fixed assembly line, single purpose portable sewing machine with high output capacities. The inventory between stages is high.

Pull system – Replacing stock after consumption has occurred what we do today is to replace what was used yesterday.

Pull system is not a preferred system in the company as the labor is cheap and the country does not has a solid retail market, so most manufacturing is done for export purpose.

Disadvantages of Pull system in the sub-continent

  • In the sub-continent countries especially Bangladesh, where the retail market is more-or-less absent, the pull system carries the following disadvantages.
  • Limited ability to adapt to changes in product or product mix (ex. portable sewing machine are of limited capacity and the tooling necessary for products is not always feasible in a given FMS), and the style variation is very frequent so it loses grounds on that account.
  • Substantial pre-planning is required which is a lacking in the country.
  • The installation and implementation is expensive, and costs millions of dollars
  • Technological problems of exact component positioning and precise timing necessary to process a component
  • Sophisticated manufacturing systems

Advantages of Push systems

  • The push system helps to cope up with the frequent style changes, which is one of the feature of export based garment manufacturing.
  • The work can be done for small lot sizes, and in garments industry, there are many cases in which we get to see small orders for a style or small color wise order of the same style.
  • The push system also helps us to meet the short delivery deadlines, which is a major concern with export-based garments and it helps to fulfill this requirement in most of the cases.

Manufacturing System in Auto Group Ltd.

In Auto Group Ltd, there are 15 lines (5lines per floor), these are all assembly lines having around 40 workstations per line and all these operations are assembly related and these lines are assembly lines.

Apart from the assembly lines, there are preparatory-section which work on a modular basis, especially for cuff and collar preparation. The preparatory section consists of the first 4-6 workstations of every line and also, there is another section in the corner of every floor for the same purpose.

In all, we can say that the manufacturing system followed is a blend of two manufacturing systems, namely

  • Progressive Bundling Unit (PBU)
  • Assembly line

Progressive Bundling Unit (PBU)

In PBS production, sewing operations are broken down by management into a number of distinct Progressive bundling and separate operations depending on the complexity of the garment.

Management assigns an expected sewing time or “standard” (in minutes) for each operation such that the amount of effort required to sew a standard minute is equivalent across tasks.

Workers are paid based on individual piece rates according to the standard set for the operation they undertake. In addition to the piece rate standard, workers also receive an hourly wage, or variance pay, when work is interrupted.

The advantages of the PBU system can be listed as under:

  1. Helps to cope up with frequent style changes
  2. Helpful for small lot sizes also
  3. Allows the garment manufacturer to meet short delivery deadlines

The disadvantages faced on following the PBU system are:

  1. Greater amount of WIP
  2. Single operator single skill
  3. Individual piece rates and incentives
  4. Shop floor supervision
  5. Productivity effected by rate of absenteeism
  6. Worker performs repetitive motions

Assembly Line

An assembly line is a manufacturing process in which interchangeable parts are added to a product in a sequential manner to create a product. It can also be called a process where discrete parts are put together to make a finished product. The assembly line operations are a high volume operation that produces products that are very similar in features and performance. Items are produced in a continuous manner, with usually only one possible routing.

It is a very productive production system, and at the same time, the layout is product oriented. Typically, it is a line of dissimilar portable sewing machine is grouped in the line (sometimes more than one to balance flow). Line balancing is a key in the assembly line system as the amount of output varies by varying the sequence of operations and the material flow. Though the assembly line carries a disadvantage of being very inflexible, as the Computerized Sewing Machine layout cannot be altered very often, yet it is most commonly used in the garments industry.

As a part of internship work, I was supposed to cover 2different styles of shirts in the sewing floor from entering the floor to the dispatch to the finishing section. The study in the style included the time study, the method study (process charts and LH/RH charts for each operations). Based on the time study data, the calculations were done to find out the line efficiency, throughput time and the inventory level.

The sewing department covered the most part of the study and it required many calculations to come up with the right data and figures to support and suggest the appropriate changes to the company. The method study also helped to make suggestions on reducing the idle time and the delays from processes.

For the purpose of study, I covered the 2different styles of shirts

  1. Men’s Long Sleeve Hidden B/D Collar Shirt (HAGGAR-PROMINENT APPAREL LTD.)
  2. Men’s Long Sleeve Point Collar Shirt (CAPITAL MERCURY, CARHARTT)

Men’s L/S Hidden B/D Collar Shirt

The style was introduced in many stages as it had a very big order size but the color variation was also frequent. Since the fabric is check/stripe, therefore, the problem of shade variation is not very common. Considering this fact, the order was introduced in the line with a very big bundle size of 279 pieces per bundle. This size was actually determined by the number of lays spread in the spreading/cutting department.

In all, one line engages nearly 85 people and only about 32 of them are operators, the rest all are engaged in either the quality inspection, thread trimming or simply as a helper.

Line Efficiency

Line efficiency= Actual pieces/day  x100

Ideal pieces/day

Actual pieces/hour= minimum number of pieces in the line

Ideal pieces per day= No. of operators X Available minutes in a day

SMV of the garment

Now, for this particular style, the minimum number of pieces in the line is 78 pieces

Therefore, actual number of pieces in a day (9hours)= 78X9= 702 pieces

Operators required= 46

Therefore, the operator time taken in a day = 46X5400min= 24840min

Hence, the ideal pieces/day= 24840   = 1489 pieces

16.68

Line efficiency= 702 X100 = 47.15%

1489

From this calculation, it is very clear that the line efficiency is very less and has to be immediately taken into account.

SOP for Sewing: First of all PP Meeting is conducted. This meeting conducted in presence of GM, PM, QM, TM, Line Manager, Maintenance Manager, IE and respective Merchandiser.

  • After PP Meeting, Red Tag Sample and Trim Chart is provided by the merchandiser along with the Tech Pack and the Technical sheet. The I.E. Department provides the Style bulletin containing the details of Machinery and Manpower allocation.
  • Cut Parts are received from Cutting.
  • Pilot run / 1st Bulk is done. It is checked for Quality / Measurement and Shrinkage Issues, Washing issues and also the product safety issues are also discussed .In case of any issue, immediate meeting is conducted and attended by GM, PM, QM and TM to sort out the issue.
  • Once, all the quality / measurement issues are resolved, approval for bulk cutting is provided and accordingly Bulk Sewing commences.
  • The Roving Q/C checks randomly 7 pcs from random work stations. In case of any Quality issues, it is immediately highlighted to the Line manager as well as the Technical manager. These issues are sorted immediately.
  • The End Line Q/C checks 100 % garments for Quality and 2Pcs every Hour for Measurement. Any issues are immediately highlighted to the PM, QM and TM for sorting out the issue.
  • All the Q/C Pass pcs are sent for wash. Washing is done Style/ Color/ Lot/ Recipe wise. 100 % pcs are checked for Hand feel, Washing Standard and Measurement. If any issues are encountered, rewash is done to achieve the acceptable quality standard.
  • After washing, garments are issued to finishing (Size/ Lot wise).

Reports in Sewing Section: Ten reports are being made in the Sewing Section:

  1. Random Number Table.
  2. Random Inspection Record
  3. List of Un cleared operations
  4. Bundle Control Sheet
  5. Sewing Quality Inspection report
  6. Measurement Chart Fit Audit Report
  7. Style/ Line OQL Summary
  8. Sewing Cross Audit Report
  9. Weekly Root Cause Analysis Chart
  10. Sewing Q/C and Operator Counseling Report
 
Md. Ahsanul HossainTextile Engineer, Pabna Gov. Textile College. Email:  hamontopabna@yahoo.com,  Cell# 01766463921
Auto Cloth Laser Cutter or Fabric Laser Cutting Machine

Auto Cloth Laser Cutter or Fabric Laser Cutting Machine

Fabric Laser Cutting Machine

Auto fabric laser cutting machine is used for cutting fabric in garments industry and textile industry. Auto fabric laser cutting machine have laser tube,  motor stepper and other parts to work together. Fabric laser cutting machine  is used in cutting department is an essential part of any garment-manufacturing unit, because the fabric is one raw material, which constitutes to more than 50% of the total cost of the garment and it has to be cut into patterns and a lot is on stake, if any problem arises in this section then it can affect the order drastically. The first stage in the manufacture of the garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary patterns shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments.  Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut by fabric laser cutting machine.  The pattern shapes for these garments are drawn as to their shape and position, which maybe held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on the paper marker.

Feature of Fabric Laser Cutter :

  • Auto controlling system, rich functions, can effect engraving on plane, gradient engraving using fabric laser cutter ,
  • Owns features of trumpf laser restoring from power off, continuation on break point.
  • Laser cutter machine transmite file form Auto cad and graphics software in the system.
  • Auto Laser cut machine work with Co2 for laser cut fabric
  • Laser cutter is very fast than other laser cutting machine.
  • The fabric laser cutter have motor stepper
  • Auto Laser cutter machine is driven by motor stepper
  • The system can nesting and full format continuous auto feeding cutting on a single pattern that exceeds the cutting area of the machine.
  • Automatic fabric spreading machine is the pre step of laser cutter machine

Specifications of Laser Cloth Cutting Machine :

When we will buy dyeing machine we should check some specifications which are given below-

laser cloth cutting machine
Auto Cloth Laser Cutting Machine
[label type=”label” title=”Specification Name”][label type=”label” title=”Value”]
Product CategoryCutting
Machine CategoryCutting Machine
Product NameLaser cloth cutting machine
Product Modellaser tube
Product ClassNew
OrigineChina
Brand/Manufacturerecutting fabric company
Agent of BangladeshNo
PowerAC 110-220V±10%, 50-60Hz
Temperature0°-40°C
DescriptionLaser cloth cutting machine is very difficult to operate.
CertificationNA
Cloth Capacity1000 mm/s
Laser Power60W/80W/100W/150W/180W
Resolution2500dpi
Cutting Area1600mm×2500mm/1600mm×3000mm
Supported File SystemAI, BMP, PLT, DXF, DST etc
Compatible SoftwareTAJIMA, CORELDRAW,PHOTOSHOP,AUTOCAD

Stepper Motor:

The stepper motor is run by DC electric motor that divides a full rotation into a number of equal steps. The motor’s location can then be commanded to move and hold at one of these steps without any feedback sensor as long as the motor is cautiously sized to the application.

SOP for Cutting Section: 

To maintain the best quality of Auto garment. In Auto group after received all document from marketing / sample section, at first we discuss all point about every order with sample, spec, buyer comments at pre-production meeting. After complete fabric inspection then we relax fabric according to our fabric spreading sop. When we, received sample, pattern marker then we start fabric spreading (lay). Complete lay, sometime relax fabric, then start cutting, numbering, budding & send to 100% panel check table. When panel check complete then send to (print, embroidery if required) sewing section for input. We keep all record properly.

Parts of Laser Tube Head:

The parts of laser tube head are given here-

Parts of Laser Tube Head
Parts of Laser Head
  • Laser cutter head
  • Reflective mirror
  • Adjustable lens height
  • Lens mount
  • Laser
  • Laser emitter
  • Focusing lens
  • Gas inlet
  • Nozzle
  • Focused laser and gas jet

Cutting Process of a Company:

In Autogarment., the cutting department is situated on the 5th floor of the building. The area of the floor is divided into work floor for the Autogarment and the Autogarment sections. Both the sections work for 100% export. The operators of the Autogarment sections wear cream-colored shirts and the operators in the Autogarment section wear blue colored shirts. This uniform helps for distinguishing the operators of the two sections.

The department submits a report of projected dates for finishing a particular work assigned to it and is issued the fabric from the store, accordingly. Based on this projection, the fabric is brought in 5-10 days in advance from the store, so that the cutting department gets enough time to finish the work.

Conclusion:

The cutting department gets the marker from the CAD department band the fabric from the store. The cutting department then lays the fabric, according to the cut with laser cut fabric machine laid down by the CAD and marker section. The laser cut fabric is then cut into blocks (block cutting), which is then re-laid and cut precisely. The second cutting is essential in order to ensure a 100% check match. The plain laser cut fabric is also cut into block first, then into the final pieces, but the hassle of matching is not essential in such kind of a fabric.

[1] Kh. Mashiur Rahman, Garments Auto Machine Technologist, Web: www.autogarment.com, Email: autogarments@gmail.com, Cell: +88 01 79 52 53 54