Pre Production Process In Garment Industry

Pre Production Process In Garment Industry

Pre Production Process In Garment Industry

Mr. AAA shared some points on fabric fault & thread issue. Mr. DDD talked about some H&M nomination of accessories issue . He came up with another point where he mentioned factory has failed to execute a wash where out sourced washing plant is doing it with ease. Also he shared his observation, as factory is not maintaining their wash recipe.  Also he emphasized on fabric & accessories wastage management to improve profit margin. Mr. BBB talked about difference between planning & actual scenario when problem occurs. Proper communication he accentuated can be the key to resolve any issue. Some check lists are given below –

  • Planning Receive
  • Fabric Receive in Store
  • Accessories Receive in Store
  • FABRIC COMPOSITION
  • INTERLINING
  • FUSING
  • MAIN LBL.
  • SIZE LBL.
  • SUB LBL.
  • CARE LBL.
  • BTN LIGNE.
  • BTN & HOLE QTY.AT BODY.NECK
  • BTN & HOLE QTY.CUFF.
  • BTN & HOLE QTY.SLV.PLKT.
  • SPARE BTN & POSITION
  • BTN COLOUR
  • HOLE MEASUREMENT
  • THREAD
  • SPI
  • COLLAR WIDTH
  • BAND WIDTH
  • COLLAR STYLE
  • CUFF STYLE
  • CUFF WIDTH
  • FRONT
  • BACK
  • YOKE
  • POCKET POSITION
  • POCKET WIDTH & LENGTH
  • SLV.
  • BTM  HEM
  • LOWER PART
  • TOP STITCH
  • SIDE SEAM
  • ARM HOLE
  • FINISHING
  • PACK
  • FOLDING SIZE
  • POLY BAG
  • NECK BOARD
  • COLLAR INSERT
  • BUTTER FLY
  • PIN
  • CLIP
  • BACK BOARD
  • CUFF PRESENTATION
  • HANG-TAG
  • BAR CODE
  • POLY STICKER
  • PAPER BAND
  • Approval Receive (Counter Sample)
  • Approval Receive (P.P Sample)
  • Marker Requisition (CAD)
  • Marker Receive (Test Cutting)
  • INTERLINING (FUSE/NON FUSE/COLOUR)
  • THREAD
  • S.P.I
  • FUSING
  • BAND ROLLING
  • CUFF ROLLING
  • COLLAR TOP STITCH
  • COLLAR CLASSIFICATION (C/WAY,B/D.C/C,HIDDDN B/D,UNDER LOOP,REMOVABLE BONE,
  • CUFF HOLE & BTN QTY WITH MEAS
  • BAND TOP STITCH
  • CUFF TOP STITCH (ROUND,NOTCH,SQURE)
  • FRONT UPR. PLKT.  (FUSE / NON FUSE)
  • LOWER PLACKET (ROLLING OR O/L)
  • MAIN LABEL
  • SIZE LABEL
  • CARE  LABEL
  • EXTRA  LABEL / SUB LABEL
  • BACK TUCK / BACK BOX
  • BACK OR FRONT DART
  • USE LOOP / NOT USE  LOOP
  • FRONT SHOULDER TOP ST
  • BACK YOKE TOP ST
  • SLV . UPR PLKT .  (POINT / SQUARE)
  • SLV PLKT.  HOLE & BUTTON
  • SLV. LOWER PLKT.(SELF OR NOT)
  • SHORT SLV .)WELTED / ROLLING)
  • AFTER / BEFORE SIDE SEAM (TUCK/BARTACK)
  • SLV.ATTACH (FRENCE  / OVER LOCK)
  • ARM  HOLE  TOP STITTICH (LINING USE/NOT)
  • SIDE SEAM (F/ARM OR OVER LOCK)
  • FEED OFF THE ARM ST WAY (LINING USE / NOT)
  • SIDE SLIT (BARTACK OR NOT)
  • COLLAR JOINT TOP ST .
  • BUTTOM HEM (TALL / STRAIGHT)
  • CUFF ATTACH (PLEAT.SINGLE /DOUBLE)
  • HOLE & BUTTON THREAD
  • HOLE MEASUREMENT & HOLE BTN QTY
  • GARMENTS MEASUREMENT
  • Pattern Receive
  • Make Sheet Receive
  • Marker Checking QC
  • Test Cutting Start
  • Printing and Embroidery Send
  • Printing and Embroidery Receive
  • Test Cutting Input to Sewing
  • Test Sewing Measurement Report (QC)
  • Test Sewing Measurement Report Receive (Sample Section)
  • Balk Marker Receive
  • Bulk Input Date
  • End of Garment Porcess

Pre Production Process Meeting

  • Mr. LLL started his speech with one of this production challenge issue , as factory has limited number of lines (9 lines) with verities of styles goes on (30-34 styles) in production line.
  • He talked about obligation of 2 size set before going for bulk which is time killing in his point of view.
  • Revise planning of production creates sudden problem in line balancing.
  • More automatic machines are required in factory production line to improve quality.
  • Some bitter experience he shared he faced during working with factory as most of the time they failed to maintain quality & on time delivery.
  • He also emphasized on getting actual man , m/c , productivity from R&D Dept.
  • Mr. KKK started his speech with a replay to Mr. UUU  point of 2 size set issue. As factory has 85% of their orders in spandex fabric , 2 size is mandatory requirement to adjust the fabric shrinkage.
  • He mentioned some good customers need line allocation which will create interest in them to do more business with factory.
  • He also proposed a model line plan for size set & SMS production execution. 
  • He also mentioned some problem he is going through while working with factory. He also mentioned factory doesn’t have necessary dry process execution section which is now a mandatory requirement for factory orders.
  • Improvement in supply chain & file management system has been came as observation.
How to Write  for Garments Section?

How to Write for Garments Section?

REVISED ORDER

Revised Order CONC : SUMMER S13 /  ORDER CONFIRMATION

Designation :   MEN’S LONG SLEEVES SHIRTS

Details : Collar Shape : BUTTONED UNDER COLLAR

  • Length / Long 8 cm
  • Without Stays
  • Collar overstitch : 5 mm
  • Collar band :   3 cm in Front
  • 3,5 cm in Back
  • Pocket : Sharp
  • 2 Pleats at the back side = City measurement
  • French seam : 1 cm
  • No Front Placket
  • Cuff  Sharp 8 cm
  • Bottom : round
  • 1st button hole under collar band : 4.5
  • Last button hole : horizontal  
  • Measurement chart : CITY
  • Total Buttons : 7

Buttons :  Colour + Size and Shape See attached

Composition : 65% POLYESTER +  35 % COTTON with cotton handfeel

Accessories :   Price tickets +  Main Label + Size Label + Barcode Label  + Label ‘Repassage Facile’

FILE ACCESSORIES SUMMURY WILL BE SEND LATER  

Folding : With PINS

Folding Cuff :Must Appears

Price : 2.70  USD FOB CHITTAGONG BANGLADESH  / BY SEA

BE CAREFULL !! STANDARD CARTONS –ASSORTMENT SIZE (211 CARTONS ONLY)

We provide CRM Contact Management System and CRM Integration Free

Our reference Colour Qty II III IV V VI Our Order Departure on
                   
1604 3069 289 WHITE 133 X 72 45 X45 With cotton handfeel POP TC CS 1688 1 2 2 2 1 32773 05/12/05 Vessel Departure BY SEA

TO RECEIVE FOR APPROVAL :

– Fabric labdips

– Production fabric 10 cm x 10 cm

– Care label

– Button

– 1 counter sample to submit before 15 TH OCTOBER 05

Waiting for your confirmation and your proforma invoice. Best regards, Alexandra for Delphine CHANDESRIS.       

AFTER TREATMENT (WASHED PRODUCT)/WRINKLE FREE

Examine the garment and place a check mark under YES, NO or N/A-

Check if hand feel is correct to approved washed standard with regards to surface appearance, softness etc.
Check for color and cast of garment against approved standard to ensure that they are very close or within the approved shade band between light and dark. In the case of indigo denims or piece dyed fabric or over dyed garments, arrange a few garments flat on table over lapping each other and place the shade bands (dark and light) on either side of the garments to verify correctness of shade. Repeat this check for every half dozen garments from the sample lot.
In the case of heavier washed product, check for appearance such as abrasion and any destruction to see if they are up to original approved standard.
For garments with wrinkle free treatment, check for seam smoothness against approved standard and/or AATCC standard replicas for seam smoothness Test Method 88B.
Also for wrinkle free garments check for fabric smoothness against approved standard and/or AATCC standard for fabric appearance test method 124.
If there is crease on leg panels for wrinkle free programs, check for sharpness of crease (also known as retention of creases) against approved standard and/or AATCC standard replicas for retention of creases Test Method 88C.
Examples of Fabric Construction & Garment Appearance

Examples of Fabric Construction & Garment Appearance

Fabric Construction

Fabric Construction CONSTRACTION FINISED WIDTH
100% COTTON CALICO 14X14/60X60 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CALICO 16X16/60X60 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON SHITTING 20X20/60X60 55’’/56’’
100% COTTON SHITTING 30X30/68X68 55’’/56’’
100% COTTON TWILL 20X20/108X58 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON TWILL 20X16/128X60 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON TWILL 16X12/108X56 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON TWILL 10X10/72X42 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON TWILL 10X07/72X42 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON TWILL 7X7/72X42 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON TWILL 30X30/130X70 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 20X20/100X50 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 20X16/112X58 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 16X12/96X58 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 10X10/72X42 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 10X07/74X44 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 16X16/96X48 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 30X30/130X64 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON CANVAS 7X7/70X40 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON RIBSTOP 20X20/108X58 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON RIBSTOP 20X16/96X56 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON RIBSTOP 16X16/104X50 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON BROKEN TWILL 20X20/108X56 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON BROKEN TWILL 10X10/74X50 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON PANAMA CANVAS 16+16X12+12/112X54 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON PANAMA CANVAS 20+20X20+20/104X56 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON PANAMA CANVAS 10+10X10+10/72X40 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON POPLIN 40X40/133X72 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON POPLIN 40X40/133X100 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON BED FORD CORD 20X20/108X58 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON OTTOMAN 20X20/108X58 57”/58’’
100% COTTON VOIL 80X80/96X88 43”/44”& 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON VOIL 60X60/96X88 43”/44”& 57’’/58’’
65% + 35% T/C FABRIC 133X72/45X45 43”/44”& 57’’/58’’
65% + 35% T/C FABRIC 110X76/45X45 43”/44”& 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON HARRING BONE 20X20/100X50 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON  HARRING BONE 20X16/108X58 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON OX. CANVAS 20/2X10/70X40 57’’/58’’
100% COTTON OX. CANVAS 32/2X16/100X50 57’’/58’’
T/C Twill 65%+35% 100% COTTON POPLIN 100% COTTON POPLIN 100% COTTON FLANNEL 100% COTTON FLANNEL 20X20/108X58 30X30/133X72 50X50/133X72 20X10/40X42 24X13/42X44          57”/58”          57”/58”          57”/58”          42”/43”          42”/43”      

PRODUCT LIST  POCKETING FABRICS: –

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION FINISHED WIDTH
100% CTTN SHEETING 20X20/60X60 43/44″
100% CTTN SHEETING 30X30/68X68 43/44″
100% CTTN SHEETING 30X30/60X60 43/44″
65% + 35% T/C FABRIC 110X76/45X45 43/44″
65% + 35% T/C FABRIC 96X72/45X45 43/44″
T/R FABRIC 75DX45/100X76 43/44″
     

SYMBOLS:-

REACTIVE DYED Fabric Construction
PIGMENT DYED
PIGMENT PRINT ON WHITE
REACTIVE PRINT ON WHITE
FLAT/NON PEACH FINISH
PEACH FINISH
R.F.D.
PAPER TOUCH FINISH
ALL OVER PRINT
PIGMENT PRINT ON REACTIVE DYED GROUND
PEACH+RAISING FINISH

GARMENT APPEARANCE CHECK

Perform the following checks based on type of folding or hanging and place a check mark against YES, NO or N/A- Read more about Apparel Garment Merchandising

TOPS on hanger-

  • Verify if collar, neck and placket appearance is good and collar presentation is correct (buttoned or unbuttoned at neck). Ensure shirt collars are smooth with no bumps and dimples
  • Verify if garment presentation is good for press, and the garment is free from wrinkles, crease marks, shiny marks etc
  • Ensure garment is clean and free from uncut and loose threads

BOTTOMS on hanger-

  • Verify if garment presentation is good for press, and the garment is free from wrinkles, crease marks, shiny marks etc
  • Inspect garment has been hung correctly on hanger; side to side or front to back.
  • Inspect garment waist band to verify if it has been folded properly and the leg crease (if required) is hanging straight. Verify if the leg panel is not twisted.
  • If it is a non-creased leg panel, ensure that there are no fold marks on leg panel.
  • Ensure garment is clean and free from uncut and loose threads

TOPS and BOTTOMS folded-

  • Inspect garment folding method is correct and all trims such as pins, clips etc are place correctly.
  • Inspect if garment presentation is good and center of garment is well presented, such as placket etc.
  • Ensure garment is clean and free from uncut and loose threads

Fabric Construction

Use the “Clock Wise Inspection Method” when inspecting a garment for Workmanship Quality.

Please follow sketches and Power Point slides under the QA shared site folder Vendor Manual showing examples of how to follow Clock Wise Inspection Method.

Sequence Of A Garments Inspection. Clock Wise Method

Garment Inspection

Garments Inspection first start from inside & left hand side  after complete inside inspection then start topside inspection on the same way. Based on PEI quality requirements, each factory is required to have a location for the purpose of conducting finished product quality inspection. This location will be called a “Factory Quality Assurance Center” or FQAC. The objective is to implement this concept across all factories that have continuous orders with PEI as a mandatory rule. We sale Garments Quality Control Inspection Report Software .

This standard operating procedure will help our suppliers as well as PEI field QA associates understand the chronological order in implementing the set up of a FQAC and the process that follows thereafter including training and certification of factory auditor/s.

Inside of a Garments Left

  • MAIN LBL, COLLAR, NK RIB, PLKT AREA .
  • ARMHOLE, SLV JOINT.
  • SLV CUFF, HEM.
  • SIDE SEAM,.
  • BOTTOM HEM

Inside of a Garments Right

  • MAIN LBL, COLLAR, NK RIB, PLKT AREA .
  • ARMHOLE, SLV JOINT.
  • SLV CUFF, HEM.
  • SIDE SEAM, CARE LBL (COL. CODE, SIZE).
  • BOTTOM HEM.

Topside of a Garments Left

  • MAIN LBL, COLLAR, NK RIB, PLKT AREA .
  • ARMHOLE, SLV JOINT.
  • SLV CUFF, HEM.
  • SIDE SEAM, CARE LBL (COL. CODE, SIZE).
  • BOTTOM HEM.

Topside of a Garments Right

  • MAIN LBL, COLLAR, NK RIB, PLKT AREA
  • ARMHOLE, SLV JOINT.
  • SLV CUFF, HEM.
  • SIDE SEAM, CARE LBL (COL. CODE, SIZE).
  • BOTTOM HEM.
  • SIDE FLAT.
  • SELF CODE NO. USE

Conducting clock wise inspection method on bottoms-

  • Inspect the wearer’s right back panel and ensure that it is free from fabric flaws, dirt/stains or holes and color variation between back panels and front panels
  • Hold the garment upright and verify if the legs are twisting.
  • Finally inspect the inside part of garment ensuring that it is clean and the seams are well secured while there are no uncut and loose thread. Turn inside out up to crotch level.
  • Inspect the wearer’s left front panel including pleats for appearance and ensure that it is free from fabric flaws, dirt/stains, holes and for shade variation against waist band, right front panel as well as the wearer’s left back panel.
  • Inspect the wearer’s left pocket and pocket bag construction details and verify if they are correct and look tidy.
  • Inspect wearer’s left side seam construction details to verify it is correct and looks good. Pull seams gently apart.
  • Inspect left bottom hem both front and back and inside to ensure that the construction is correct and looks good.
  • Inspect the left inseam construction to ensure that the sewing details are correct and seams look good. Pull seams gently apart.
  • Inspect the right inseam as above. Pull seams gently apart.
  • Inspect right bottom hem both front and back and inside to ensure that the construction is correct and looks good.
  • Inspect the wearer’s right side seam. Pull seams gently apart.
  • Inspect the wearer’s right pocket and pocket bag construction details if they are correct and look tidy.
  • Inspect the wearer’s right front panel for appearance including pleats so that it is free from fabric flaws, dirt/stains or holes
  • Inspect the back rise construction detail to ensure that they are correct and seams look tidy. Pull seams gently apart
  • Inspect the crotch seam, fly edge, bar-tack, and J stitch to ensure that all construction details are correct and looks good. Pull crotch seams gently apart.
  • Slide zipper up and down two to three times to ensure that the zipper puller is sliding smoothly. If there are buttons instead of zipper, unbutton and button to ensure that button can slide through button hole easily and that buttons (if two or four hole) are attached with lock stitch where thread end is not raveling.
  • Unbutton and button the waist button to verify that it goes through the button hole comfortably and the placement of the button or hook and bar is correct. Verify that the center front edge is straight at front rise from waist band to fly edge. If using a two or four-hole button, ensure button is securely attached with lock stitch and thread end does not ravel. Since waist button is a stress point, ensure button is whipped for security between button and waist (shank).
  • Inspect the waist construction in and out ensuring that the sewing details are correct and neat. Ensure that the waist seams do not have uneven ease. Pull waist seams gently apart.
  • Check all belt loop placement and size if they are correct to specification. Ensure belt loop inside and outside finish does not show any raw edges.
  • Inspect the wearer’s left back panel and ensure that it is free from fabric flaws, dirt/stains or holes and for shade variation against wearer’s right back panels.
  • Inspect the wearer’s left back pocket and yoke and ensure the construction details and appearance looks good. If there are buttons, follow as per previous steps regarding button and button hole.

Conclusion

Similarly Garments Inspection the wearer’s right back pocket and yoke and ensure the construction details and appearance looks good.

What is Garment Shade Checking System for Quality Production

What is Garment Shade Checking System for Quality Production

Garment Shade Checking System

Must have approval sample and approved shade band with hand before start the Garment Shade Checking System process. In house QAM and finishing QA In charge must given sample with signature approvals to finishing to start the shade checking. Read about Clothing Inventory Management Software

  • Report need to maintain regarding defects found during shade checking and share with Quality in charge and Finishing in charge for better planning. Also need to share this with washing plant to improve their quality as well.
  • Washing received quantity and style must be maintain and need to share with finishing manager for further action,
  • As per shipment plan finishing manager will inform to Line Manager to have a correct style and required quantity.
  • Line Manager will be responsible for prepare a report and maintain record in register the style and quantity input
  • Table must be clean before start the any garment pressing and if necessary vacuum must be open.
  • AQAM will be responsible for give all approved pressing standard to production department as per the buyer requirement.
  • AQAM will be responsible to give instruction to finishing QA the way of doing pressing. Also before and after pressing measurement need to confirm as per the buyer requirement. For this all relevant Template must be available in pressing table.
  • As per the buyer requirement and finalized by QAM 100 % check point will be highlight to Finishing Manager for Line setting .Finishing manager will be responsible for implement this 100 % key point checking after the press complete.
  • Report will be generate after 100 % check complete as key point and that report will be useful for any changers is required for during bulk production. Also QA In charge shall follow up status of measurement and need to update O. AM accordingly for further action.
  • If any garment measurement out of tolerance must be keep in separate place with proper sticker identification.
  • Quality In charge will advise to finishing QI how to check the garment before start the checking process.
  • This process must checked garment presentation like pressing quality/ washing defect/ oil mark/un cut thread, etc
  • Also QI will mark the report finding defect hourly and inform’ line quality auditor for the necessary action.
  • Quality auditor also doing random audit and make the report for improve the line quality level.
  • Quality In charge will be prepared written quality specification and share with all QI for their guide line’s.

Quality Auditor will be responsible to share with all quality points with QAM for improve further quality in bulk production After Check complete goods will be sent to packing section for start packing


What is Part Wise Top Side Checking for Apparel Industry

What is Part Wise Top Side Checking for Apparel Industry

What is Part Wise Top Side Checking for Apparel Industry

Must have approved sample and trim card before start the meeting. Quality In charge will be responsible for advice to QI how to check the garment before start the checking process. Read about A Web Base Textile ERP and Garment Software Solution sss ….

Also QI Shall mark the defects found during the process inspection and inform to Quality Auditor for get necessary action to improve quality,Also Quality auditor will be responsible to do random audit and make the report for improve line quality level, this report will be available at line end for easy access.

Quality In charge will be prepared written quality specification and share with all QI for their guide lines, Quality auditor will be responsible to share with all quality points with QAM for improve further quality in bulk production

Button and trims attach.

This process will doing after wash as per buyer requirement .AQAM and finishing manager will be responsible and must approved sample before start the bulk.Must checked with approved sample and trim card before taken button and trims from the stores.

AQAM must set the machine for button attach as per buyer requirement and checked garment pull test and keep record for reference.if there is any kind of Label/belt/or some other trims AQAM must follow the approved sample, trim card, also he will be responsible for placement and measurement highlight to Finishing manager/Line Manager.

Also Finishing in charge will be responsible for follow up all trims is correct or not. Forget a confirmation he must follow the sample and trim card hang in front of the line.

After finish Button and any trims attach, finishing QI will check separate 100% inspection to confirm all accessories is attached ok.