Can test the length, strength, fineness, color and moisture, color characteristics and trash particle content in cotton ,able to determine fineness and maturity properties of fiber
Determine fiber length and tensile properties
Automatic Color Tray or increased sampling for higher throughput
Dual Sampler for increased sampling for higher throughput
Data acquistion system
ust include Standard Calibration Materials
Micronaire Measured by relating airflow resistance Maturity, Calculated using algorithm
itl’I
Length, Upper Halt Mean Length, Uniformity Index, Short Fiber Index Measured optically in a tapered fiber beard which is automatically prepared, Strength and elongation, measured physically by clamping a fiber bundle between 2 pairs of clamps at known distance Moisture content, using conductive moisture probe (Color, Rd (Whiteness), +b (Yellowness), color grade, measured optically by different color
Trash, Particle count. % surface area covered by trash, measured optically by utilizing a digital camera ;Calculation of spinnability of cotton
Fabric Defect Manual
Introduction
Controlling fabric’s quality in large scale Fabric
production facilities has always been a challenging task. Throughout the
production process, there are always new and re-occurring defects that can
unexpectedly appear on the fabric causing production loss and delays.
It is important to realize, however, that most of the
defects can be prevented and/or corrected.
The first and the most important step in taking preventive
or remedial actions is to determine the nature and the cause of the problem.
The ability to make this determination quickly and to take
the appropriate action is an integral part of any Fabric quality control set-up
and can be a great tool for minimizing production loss time and maximizing
productivity.
The following is a summarized review of the most common
defects/problems associated with each area of fabric production process from
yarns to printing.
For each, a brief description, preventive suggestions and
corrective measures are offered.
Additional detailed description and related technical information
are available if required.
General Descriptions, Guidelines, and Recommendations
Knitting Related Defects/Problems
Torque-
Definition and Causes:
This problem which predominantly occurs with single Jersey
fabrics can not easily be seen in the fabric form. However, if the fabric is
constructed with an inherent Torque, once sewn in to garments and after the
first wash a distortion in the side seams position appears.
This is mainly attributed to yarn twist, and the knitting
machine diameter size.
Higher twist levels, finer yarns (36/1, 40/1, 50/1, etc.),
and large diameters normally produce more Torque.
Preventive Suggestions:
With lighter weight fabrics, in order to completely
eliminate Torque, the use of alternate S and Z twist yarn cones on the knitting
machine is recommended.
This, however, is a costly method. The more practical way would
be to use yarns with minimum workable twist levels;
to use smaller diameter machines and finally to knit the fabric with a cut
line.
Corrective Measures:
With fabrics having higher measures of Torque an adjustment
in the marker may be the only solution.
Barre Lines-
See yarn Barre in section 1- G
Needle Lines-
Definition and Causes:
The open vertical lines along the Wales lines in a double
knit structure is normally caused by the mal-function of the needle’s latch,
accumulation of oil-soaked lint and the incorrect alignment of the cam tracks.
Preventive Suggestions:
Regular maintenance and upkeep of the machine elements, and
in particular, replacing the needles on a regular basis, are essential.
Corrective Measures:
For this problem, no corrective measures are available.
Sinker Lines-
Definition and Causes:
The open vertical lines along the Wales lines in a single
knit structure is normally caused by the miss-timing of the Sinker elements, broken
Sinker tips, accumulation of oil-soaked lint and the incorrect alignment of the
cam tracks.
Preventive Suggestions:
Regular maintenance and upkeep of all machine elements is
essential.
Corrective Measures:
For this problem no corrective measures are available.
Loop and Stitch Length Variations-
Definition and Causes:
Certain plain single knit structures, especially those with
looser stitches and at lower tension levels, are more susceptible to stitch
length variation. This can be seen on the fabric as a cluster of irregularly
shaped loops where loops appear to have different lengths.
This is usually caused by the variation in the bending
properties of the yarns.
It could also be due to the variation in the coefficient of
friction between the yarns and the elements with which they come into contact with.
Preventive Suggestions:
The use of Yarn Evenness Tester and yarn with sufficient non-silicone lubricants is strongly recommended.
Standard fabric crease recovery tester in two versions for applying different loads (10N and 19 63N weights) to meet the requirements of European and American standards Must Include. Read about Yarn Evenness Tester
Fabric Crease Recovery Tester Operation
European Standards (EN, ISO and M&S)
Loading Device (ION and 19.63N weights)
Specimen Tweezers (Metal)
Specimen Tweezers (Plastic)
Specimen Template 40 x 15mm
Specimen Template 50 x 25mm
Pack (25 sheets 100 x 150mm) Paper Tissue
American Standards (AATCO
Loading Device (500g weight)
Specimen Tweezers (Metal)
Specimen Tweezers (Plastic)
Specimen Template 40 x 15mm
Specimen Template 50 x 25mm
DYES, PRINTS & CHEMICAL BI-PRODUCTS
Auto Garments has a responsibility to protect the environment, our customers and the people involved in the production of our goods in addition to ensuring an acceptable level of performance from the fabrics used by Crease Recovery Tester
Outlined below are Adams requirements with regard to the
control of Chemicals and other substances which may pose a risk to safety or
performance. All suppliers must comply with these requirements.
Compliance & Audit
Audit Findings/ suggestion
Root Cause
Recommendation
Corrective action plan by factory management
Lack of quality training also QC &QA
Quality responsible
don’t give aware to the quality inspector Regarding the SOP
Factory Quality Management should provide training about quality issue.
Management take a plan regarding how to
provide effective training to the quality .
Yarn conditioning
were not conducted
Lack of proper Knowledge
& space .
Need to make space
Factory Management will established proper monitoring system & will
do accordingly
Quality did not able
to show the lab dip
Lack of responsible
guys
Quality people Should more aware on this issue .
Factory management will maintain accordingly
In chemical store
they were not maintained issue ,balance record properly .
Lack of proper monitoring & awareness.
Factory management maintain it properly.
Factory Management will established a proper monitoring system &
also give awareness to the concern person.
The factory management not conduct
investigation after pest control
Factory concern not
aware regarding this issue
The factory
management will conduct investigation after pest controlling
Collect data from sparrow & start system monthly or quarterly
Missed cut-Line or Knitted Selvage-
Definition and Causes:
In the process of circular knitting and in some
constructions a cut-line, along the knitted Wales and throughout the entire
length of the roll is created.
The purpose is to facilitate a straight slitting of the
fabric during the transformation of the fabric from a tubular to open width
form.
The creation of this cut line is normally done by
disengaging 2 or 3 needles at the knitting zone.
Some knitters, on the other hand, prefer to use a different knit stitch (usually a Pique) to make a distinctive cut-line of Crease Recovery Tester
During the Slitting process this distinctive cut-line must
be followed precisely to minimize any damages or working losses.
In certain cases due to equipment failure (optical sensors)
or lack of due attention the cut line is missed creating an unwanted line in
different areas on the fabric.
Preventive Suggestions:
Knitters must make sure that the inserted cut-lines are
distinctive and quite visible.
This becomes especially important in darker colors since in
these colors, lines have a tendency to become less visible.
Operator training and equipment maintenance and upkeep are
equally important.
Corrective Measures:
For this defect, once it is created, there are no corrective
measures available.
Incorrect Selvage Gumming and Trimming-
Definition and Causes:
In order to easily and flatly spread layers of a single
jersey fabric on the cutting table, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of
Gum and then trim the naturally curled selvedges.
This is done in the drying stage and the following are some
of the common defects that are associated with this process:
The inconsistent thickness or a variation in the viscosity
of the gumming chemical causing stickiness in the selvedge areas.
Uncut portions due to defective trimming devices leaving
strands of loose fabrics.
Any of these problems would make spreading of the fabric on
the cutting table difficult.
Preventive Suggestions:
The gumming chemicals which are normally PVA based need to
be of Low-Medium viscosity profile. Correct dilution and continuous agitation
in the preparation stage, to avoid coagulation, are important and need to be
closely monitored.
Corrective Measures:
In severe cases, to correct the unevenness of the gummed
areas, a scour process to remove the gum and a re-gumming application will correct
the defect.
It is to be noted that re-trimming will not be required since this will affect the cuttable width of the fabric by using Crease Recovery Tester
Hydrostatic Head Tester -Internal water reservoir ‘Maximum pressure 3 bar
10 cm’, 19.63 cm’, 26 cm’ , 28 cm’, 100 cm’ test head and Pore Size Attachment included. Read about Yarn Evenness Tester
Fulfills AATCC 127 BS 3321 ERT 120-1 ISO 811 AFNOR G07-057 BS EN 20811 ERT 160-0 ISO 9073-16 1151092 B-b ASTM D751 EN 343 GB/T 47441ST 080.4 (01)157 080.6 (01) WSP 080.6.R4 (12) Securely holds samples of up to 30 mm thick
Fabric Quality
It is Auto Childrenswear Group policy to provide our customers with quality product that is value for money and which consistently meets their expectations and requirements. Our products must be fit for purpose and meet the appropriate durability standards.
The safety of
our products is of paramount importance and therefore it is the supplier’s
responsibility to ensure that our products comply to both legislative
requirements and the group quality assurance requirements.
Should any
agent or supplier be found not adhering to these requirements, all current and
future business dealings will be reviewed with immediate effect.
An Audit Report
Audit Findings/ suggestion
Root Cause
Recommendation
Corrective action plan by factory management
Wastage found kept without separation.
Lack of awareness
& shortage of manpower
Need to Wastage segregation
The factory management will kept all waste
in a segregated manner.
Supplier performance based on capacity , delivery performance , Hydrostatic Head Tester performance were not conducted
They did know the
system of supplier performance .
Factory management are requested to do Supplier performance on Six
month basis .
Factory Management will established proper system & will do
accordingly
Quality did not able
to show the lab dip
Lack of responsible
guys
Quality people Should more aware on this issue .
Factory management will maintain accordingly
Worker are not aware
of using the PPE
Lack of proper monitoring & awareness.
Factory management maintain it properly.
Factory Management will established a proper monitoring system &
also give awareness to the concern person.
General store found without restriction and
photo identity of authorized personnel.
Factory concern not
aware regarding this issue
The factory
management will conduct investigation after providing the security
The factory
management will ensure proper system to confirm the security of store.
Finishing Related Defects and Problems
Softener Spots-
Definition and Causes:
This is caused by one or combination of the following:
Undesolved softener particles or lumps deposited on the
fabric during the padding Process of the Tenter Frame
Mixing chemically incompatible softeners, i.e., Cat-ionic
and An-ionic softeners with Silicone softeners and the resulting coagulation of
the molecules and their deposit on the fabric
The use of Silicone softeners having high solid contents
without the use of Acetic Acid
Preventive Suggestions:
When using softeners, all technical aspects need to be
considered.
Corrective Measures:
With Silicone spots, there are no fully effective processes available. This is due to the fiber reactive nature of these types of softeners and the bond formation process that takes place.
Conclusion
With other types of softeners, a strong alkali rinse will be effective in removing the spots. Hydrostatic Head Tester is sold by us
Flammability Testing Equipment : Marker thread switch interchangeable test frame with frame stubs and pins
Finishing: heat resistant finish
Ignition :automatic ignition
Control: burner to specimen adjustor
gas
flow regulator
burner
setting guages
Data extraction: test report exportation
Standards
EN ISO 6940
EN ISO 6941
EN ISO 15025
EN 1101,1102
EN 71-2
EN 13772
EN 13722
EN 1624
EN 1103
EN 14878
EN 1625
85 EN 532
BS 7837,5722, 5867-2, 6249
Gas burners: range of gas burners as accessories to comply with all standards. Read about Yarn Evenness Tester
GENERAL FABRIC PROPERTIES
FIBRE REQUIREMENTS
Ramie – Due to the flammable nature of this fibre it must not be used in any product for Adams Childrenswear.
Acetate – Due to performance issues satin fabrics made from acetate must not be used on Adams product.
YARN REQUIREMENTS
Cotton – Combed cotton
yarns should only be used.
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
Flammability- Due to potential flammability issues the following fabrics should be risk assessed by the Fabric Technology department prior to being used: 100% Cotton fabrics below 105g / m2 for full bodied skirts/dresses
100% Viscose fabrics below 120g / m2 for full bodied skirts/dresses
Fur/ Pile – Fur fabrics must be back coated to assist in pile retention. Chemicals used must be in accordance with Chemical compliance table in Appendix 1 Pile length in excess of 3.5cm is not acceptable for garments intended for children aged between 9 months and 3 years.
Pile length in excess of 2cm is not acceptable in garments intended for children under 9 months. All pile fabrics must be submitted to Auto Garments for approval of pile retention by the Fabric Technology Department.
Diamantes – These must not be used for garments intended for children under 9 months old.
Only Diamantes purchased from Pacific Concept
Industries/Heatseal are accepted for the age group between 9 months and 3
years. Further information can be obtained from the relevant departments.
In all cases the application method of the supplier should be followed and the applied diamantes must pass a motif/attachment durability test before acceptance of the order by Flammability Testing Equipment
Yellowing of White Color-
Definition and Causes
The yellowing of white fabrics that takes place after periodic exposure to light sources is normally caused by: The use of poor quality optical brighteners with poor light fastness properties, The incorrect PH levels of the fabric,The application of incorrect softeners.
The inter-action of one or a combination of any of the above
with the Ultra Violet rays emitted by the sun or any other artificial sources
will result in a semi-permanent yellowing of the exposed fabric.
Preventive Suggestions:All white fabrics, regardless of fiber type, must have PH
levels of 5 to 6 (on the Acid side).
Corrective Measures
In most cases, a PH adjustment through rinsing will be sufficient to regain the brightness. In some cases a re-bleach may be required.Flammability Testing Equipment is essential for apparel company
meat.e with Standards ASTM / OIN 150 2555 / ISO 3219 ,der MS-R Standards QUO Range From 0.05 to 13 mNm and From 0.005 to 0.8 mNm Digital Viscometer Temperature -SOX to + 300 Y.
uracy / 1 %
ability /- 0.2 %
Digital Viscometer Capacity Iml) 3.100 ml. viscosity Range 3 – 180.000,000 milts. Display Option Viscosity – Speed – Torque – Temperature – Time – Measuring geometry. Level of sensitivity – Date/hour – Choice of viscosity u French/English its cP or mPa s Language
Fabric Submission Procedure
FABRIC QUALITY
All initial samples must be submitted to the relevant Buying Team with two copies of the attached Fabric Quality Submission . Initial samples are often submitted in available quality fabric which is closest for shade etc. to be shown at meetings, it is essential that an example of the correct quality of fabric is also available for approval.
The form must be completed as follows:A swatch of the correct fabric quality large enough to fill the box must be attached to both sheets.
Supplier: The name of the garment supplier
Dept: The Auto Buying Department the style is for
Style Ref: The Auto reference
Description: Description of garment being sampled ( including any other fabrics on product)
Fabric Construction: e.g. Single Jersey, Twill etc.
Fibre Composition Fibre composition of swatch submitted (this must be the same composition as you intend to use in the style).
Yarn Count: The count of the yarn used in the fabric
Weight: The finished weight of the fabric / m2.
Courses/3cm & Wales/3cm: The courses and wales on the finished fabric if knitted
Machine gauge: The gauge of machine the fabric has been knitted on
Ends/inch & Picks/inch: The ends and picks on the finished fabric if woven
Fabric Supplier:Name of the fabric supplier if fabric being bought finished or the name of the supplier if fabric bought greige and commission dyed.
Fabric Dyer: Name of dyer to be used.
Dye Type: e.g. Reactive Dye Method: e.g. Exhaust, Pad, Dip Dye
Finishing Route: e.g. compaction, softener, resin, peach etc.
Base Test: Indicate
in this area whether you have submitted a base fabric test report for this
quality of fabric and whether it has been approved by Auto . The report cover
sheet MUST stipulate if it is a new product / fabric.
If the fabric quality is approved for handle and appearance,
one copy will be signed and returned to the supplier as a quality reference for
this style. The bulk fabric must be of the same quality as this approval.
If at any stage during the development of the style, the
fabric quality is changed, including the fibre composition, then the above process must be repeated and a
swatch of correct quality fabric approved by the buying department.
Development Fabrics
If a fabric is still in development at initial sample stage,
then it must be submitted to the Buying Department using the procedure outlined
above when correct fabric is available before garment production. The Buying
Department will then return the approval, referencing it back to the relevant
contract.
A fabric quality is not fully approved until it has been
approved by the Buying Department for Handle & Appearance, and Fabric
Technology for Base Test.
Established Fabric Qualities
Where a fabric quality is established and has been used for
more than one season for Auto Garments then it should be set up as an Approved
Fabric Quality with the Fabric Technology Department.
One hanger per fabric type in each weight should be submitted to the Fabric Technology department along with fabric specification and full test report. These will be used as a benchmark to measure the forthcoming submissions.
Digital Viscometer- All Approved Fabric hangers will be held in a directory on the Fabric Technology Department for comparison.
