Top Embroidery Machines -No needle replacement records with broken parts kept.
Approved embroidery artwork and instructions are not in local language. Approval samples are not displayed at the workstation. QC check reports do not include seconds that are repaired/replaced.
Embroidery Machines are not maintained periodically. No machine maintenance schedule (catalog basis). No SOP is posted in place.
Finished cartons to be on pallets.
No policy for label control was established in this factory. Some irrelevant labels were found on the table of sewing machines.
Broken needle control policy not implemented in practice. Broken needles, redundant new needles found and pins not controlled.
The metal detector calibration process of the factory was found 9 points 1 time everyday detecting instead of request 9 points 1 time per hour.
Products must be properly checked if they have failed the metal detector check and re-checked with the metal detector afterwards.
Broken needles taped onto record incomplete and no cause given for missing parts.
Any chemicals including lubricating oil must be stored in an area of restricted access.
No smoking sign and specified drinking area were available, but it was found some workers had water in personal stations.
Lights at packing area and finished products storage area were not protected against breakage.
Quality procedure should be present in place.
Formal customer feedback system is needed to ensure that any customer comments are dealt with and implemented.
No relevant complaint handling records with root cause and corrective action etc were kept for the past 12 months.
Control points should exist for seam strength, tension strength, needle control, polybag holepunch (to be included in risk assessment) as well as use for use of sharp tools and hand sewing needles.
Top Embroidery Machines Compliance Issue
Drinking water sign was not posted.
Floor west keeping area sign was not posted.
No smoking sign was not posted.
Notice board was not found.
First aid Box was not found.
Floor wise First aider , Fire fighter & Rescue team list was not posted.
PPE Use sign was not posted.
Artificial Respiration instruction was not posted.
Chemical Handling was not Maintained Properly.
Floor Evacuation Plan was not posted on Exit.
Aisles Marking & Arrow marking was missing.
Rubber mat missing under all SDB & MDB.
Fire Alarm Switch & alarm sign not posted.
Fire extinguisher user instruction was not posted every area.
Fire hose boxes/Cabinet user instruction was not posted.
01 Fire hose box found but 40 mm (1.5 Inch) pipe was missing inside the box.
Fire hose box responsible person list was not posted.
Fire Hose box sign was not posted.
Emergency light sign was not posted.
Electrical wiring go through inside the floor without cable tray and lot of thread dust are gather with the cable.
Exit light was not found.
Toilet sign was not posted.
Toilet (Number of toilet) layout was not posted.
Drinking water test report was not posted.
Drinking water sign was not posted.
Floor west keeping area sign was not posted.
No smoking sign was not posted.
Notice board was not found.
First aid Box was not found.
Floor wise First aider, Fire fighter & Rescue team list was not posted.
PPE Use sign was not posted.
Artificial Respiration instruction was not posted
Chemical handling was not maintained properly
Floor Evacuation Plan was not posted on Exit.
Aisles Marking & Arrow marking was missing.
Fire Alarm Switch & alarm sign not posted.
Fire extinguisher user instruction was not posted every area.
Fire hose boxes/Cabinet user instruction was not posted.
01 Fire hose box found but 40 mm (1.5 Inch) dia pipe was missing inside the box.
Fire hose box responsible person list was not posted.
Emergency light sign was not posted.
Exit light was not found.
Electric wiring found inside the Central Raw Material Store.
“Light not used without protection” sign (Bengali & English) was not posted in storage area for Top Embroidery Machines
Needle Control During the factory visit it was noted that the facility has a 2 story Ansar building for security purpose. This building is separate from other building. This building is used as a dormitory for Ansar member. It has a Kitchen room, but there was no fire equipment such as- Fire Extinguisher, smoke detection system, Fire hose box etc.
Broken needle policy does not include the sample room
Area for needle exchange in case of broken needle too far away from production floor
Scissors, cutters and other sharp tools not attached to workstations but to worker’s arms
Redundant machines do not have the needles removed from them
No metal detection procedure implemented including 9 point calibration and logs of all products checked
Metal detector to be positioned in proper airport system leading into a metal free fenced in area that is restricted to certain personnel only and clearly marked
9 point calibration check not in place and missing relevant recording of calibration, metal detection checks, failures and garment destruction
Goods that are metal detected are not stored in a separate area until next successful calibration before proceeding
Any contaminated products (based on metal detection check) are not kept in a segregated area away from production and no procedure in place for their safe disposal
Product Safety & Satisfaction:
Product did not pass through metal detector.
Metal free zone in/out register not maintained.
Pictures of those working in the metal free zone should be displayed at the entrances.
Button pull testing procedure in place but only for childrenswear. Sampling and test frequency is not to George standard.
Gauge of button pull tester is in kg i/o Newton.
No holding time mentioned in record.
Designated person not aware of comparison of Newton, Kg and holding time.
All sharp tools to be attached also in the sample room.
Register needs to be maintained for all sharp tools.
Broken needle policy with time frame for needle change and also to be maintained in the sample room.
Broken needle policy not kept properly. Broken needle found in draw of needle person.
Scissors should not be kept on the iron tables.
Safety manual should be available from every customer.
Other Compliance Issue
Drinking water test report was not posted.
Drinking water sign was not posted.
Lunch west keeping area sign was not posted.
No smoking sign was not posted.
Notice board was not found.
First aid Box was not found.
PPE Use sign was not posted.(Hand Gloves, Musk, Head cover, Apron etc).
Canteen Facility have but canteen sign was not posted and food item list & price list was not posted.
Floor Evacuation Plan was not posted on Exit.
Aisles Marking & Arrow marking was missing.
Rubber mat missing In front of all LT Panel, SDB & MDB.
Fire Alarm Switch & alarm sign not posted.
Fire extinguisher user instruction was not posted every area.
Fire hose boxes/Cabinet user instruction was not posted.
Fire hose box responsible person list was not posted.
Emergency light sign was not posted.
Exit light was not found.
During the factory visit it was noted that –
No Smoking sign was not posted.
PPE Use sign was not posted.
Artificial Respiration instruction was not posted.
Some Diesel Drum are keeping open space infront of generator room.
There was no permission or certificate found for storage of flammable and combustible liquid.
During the Factory visit it was noted that-
Chemical handling procedure was not maintained Properly.
All Chemical Stored on floor instead of secondary Containment.
Conclusion
Sharp Tool Policy is mandatory for any factory. There was no Separation between Hazardous and Non Hazardous. There was no proper leveling on chemical Jar or drum. There was no posted MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).
The broken needle and Safety Scissors control procedure had been established and control records were also available, but the control practice was not effectively adequate. 1st, the good needle releasing quantity could not be fully traced according to the ‘One in/one out’ policy in sewing workshop. 2nd, the needles were not removed from some unused sewing machines in the cutting room. management strictly follows the Broken Needle policy. Our factory management is able to identify the problems in production due to needle with following the broken needle record. The hand sewing operation was not approved by Tesco Technical Manager. The hand sewing operation was not conducted in a dedicated and quarantined area…
The hand sewing products were not metal detected before release onto next stage. Some scissors were not tied securely on the tables or machine workshops. The labels were not strictly controlled for quantity and security. Based on site observation, the labels were openly stored in workshops and not securely controlled and some labels were lost & damaged on the working table or on the floor. No inspection & records were made for client provided labels.
Previous standard:
Each Operator should only be in the possession of the number of the needles required to operate his/her machine. IQC procedure for raw materials to be established incl. sampling plan, quantity, weight and appearance and no pass/fail criteria. Criteria to be displayed clearly in the area and accept/reject levels must be established.
There is a designated person in sewing floor to collect and distribute needles. Whenever a replacement is required, the operator approaches the designated person with all parts of the used or broken needle. No relevant inspection records for colour continuity checks or washing blankets done at outside washing plant.
Non-conforming incoming materials to be clearly identified and segregated.
Relevant receipt and delivery documents to be clearly identified with receipt date, item name, size, material lot. no. and manufacture no./order number for traceability.
Factory did not establish lot system for raw materials. No receipt and release documents were kept to ensure traceability of components (such as lining, tipping fabric), this should start with the fabric being released to the cutting section and all the way through to shipment.
The work instructions, reference samples or specifications should be posted in the workshop for reference.
Sharp tool policy must be in place and effective. Including records for the use of tag guns and their needles. Any sharp tools should be counted in and out on a daily basis (incl. scissors, tweezers). All tools to be attached to workstations securely.
Factory to conduct effective risk assessment, identify control points, define accept/reject limits, establish procedure to re-work and dispose of products manufactured outside the acceptable control limits.
Factory to control these points and establish corrective action in case control point is not under control. Risk assessment to include button pull, metal detector test fail, evaluation frequency for supplier material test report.
In the event if some parts of a broken needle has gone missing, the correct action plan is to check all the ready garments/parts surrounding that particular machine to ensure that the broken bits of needle has not fallen into the garments/parts or sewn into seams. The next step is to check is to check the area surrounding that particular sewing machine. Any rejected semi-products must be clearly identified and segregated after inspection.
Tests/Inspection results were not analysed for trends and relevant records were not available.
Fire Drill was not conducted in quarterly basis by fire service and internal by fire Safety Scissors.
Designated person only reissues sewers with new needle after the above steps have been satisfactorily carried out. There was no Hot Work Permit program.
There was no Housekeeping policy and housekeeping schedule for proper housekeeping.
The facility has 02 (two) pieces (635 kva Per generator) generator. There were no Generator waiver certificates from Bangladesh Energy Regulatory office.
The facility have more than 700 employee. There were not Established Worker Participation Committee in the facility.
If the broken needle parts are not found, with big magnet or using Metal Detector it should be confirm. Then the garments/part should through in to disposal box to dispose if broken parts not found.
Conclusion
All parts of the broken or used needle are taped in to the broken needle record form immediately after the exchange has taken place. There were not conduct any Health & Safety Related training in Safety Scissors. There were not found Appointment letter, Service book, Back ground check report in worker personal file.
Fabric Relaxation Machine should be cleaned before and after use.
Check the electrical connection before start the machine.
Check On/Off button and on the machine
After start the machine on the light switch.
Fabric should place in correct way in the machine to start the inspection on the machine.
You should be work carefully to keep away from rolling point.
To stop the machine during Emergency by putting emergency stop button.
If you feel any problem of the Relax dryer machine, stop and inform to senior mechanics.
Donot use the machine and its parts unnecessary.
Mind it, work savely and maintain safety procedure to avoid accident.
Cutting
No procedure for fabric relaxation time established based on fabric content and type
No internal standard for spreading length/height based on fabric type
Band knife machines have no safety guards and are not sectioned off from the rest of production
Cutting knifes do not have cables trailing above the table but rather on the floor
Accuracy checks of cut pieces top, middle and bottom layer against the master pattern not carried out
Factory does not do 100% panel inspection on all panels, just on big panels
Cut panels not stored on rack or trolley (i/o pallet) and not covered
Warehouse
Some trims and accessories found without cover.
Fabrics to be stored according to shades as soon as inventory has been done.
Fabrics to be put into racks instead of pallets. If on pallets sufficient pallets must be provided for all fabric to be stored on pallets.
Insufficient space in yarn store. Housekeeping not well organised.
Bin cards on fabric should look smart and be sufficient in size written with capital block letters.
Inspectors of fabric/yarn are not well trained. Fabric inspection machine or inspection frame with light not available.
SOP for fabric inspection should be placed in front of the fabric inspection machine.
Workers should be well trained and aware of the procedure.
Top and bottom lights to be used during inspection.
Cuttings on Colour continuity cards should be grouped into shades. Not to have several shades in the same group on the same card.
Roll numbers need to be written on the fabrics.
Shrinkage reports (for steam & washing) should be kept with the fabric inspection report. Shrinkage tests are required for all kinds of fabric.
Accessory inspection is done on less than 10%. No inspection process for polybags & hangers, sewing thread or carelabels.
SOP for accessory inspection should be displayed and clearly mark accept and reject levels. Workers should be well trained and aware about the procedure.
Approved trim card with with signature and seal by the merchandiser should be available during accessory inspection.
Inconsistent inspection process for yarn and raw material inspection. Pass/fail criteria and major/minor defect classification in the inspection process not established.
Factory does not conduct fibre content verification for yarn. Yarn quality, weight & colour shade also not checked.
No light box equipment calibration records available. No grey scales available. George light source requirements not known i.e. primary light TL84 / secondary light D65.
Leftover garments, fabrics, yarns stored together with rejects, should be kept separate. Separate zones are needed for leftover and rejected fabric, leftover and rejected accessories and leftover and rejected garments.
Inadequate light observed in raw material inspection area. Should be at least 80FC.
Cutting/Sweater
Records & reference swatches for colour continuity checked for each dye lot of yarn need improvement.
WIP of cutting to be between 1-2 days.
No fabric relaxation guidelines or equipment available. Essential key properties for yarn, like yarn size, yarn weight, knit ability, torquing, shading, loop distortion, dirty marks, uneven dye, absence of knot and foreign contamination are not checked during yarn inspection.
Shade bands are not displayed in the workstation. No adequate documentation in place to ensure that shades are separated during spreading in the cutting section. Maintenance card/register for winding machines not maintained.
No SOP (Standard Operation Procedure) for spreading technique such as height and length based on fabric properties, weight, thickness, stretch and recovery as well as pattern and design or segregation and handling of light colour yarns.
Length should be no more than 10 mtrs (Woven) and 3 mtrs (Jersey).
No auto spreading equipment available.
There should be a manual for cutting techniques (e.g. stripes, checks, height, length etc).
For check fabrics length should be no more than 10 mtrs.
Contrast colour strings should not be used to tie bundles to avoid colour transfer.
Knitting stations found with many different colours mixed in between them, without the workstations being separated by plastic sheets.
Inadequate lighting in knitting section. Should be 80FC or above.
Cut parts should be either on racks or trolleys (preferred) or if stored underneath the cutting tables must be kept in poly- or fabric bags.
Fabric rolls should be kept on pallets by order and shade and not under the cutting table.
Knitting operators use design chart that is not in local language and weight is not mentioned. Some other written procedures not in local language and without technician’s approval.
Some operators share a design chart.
Panels should be inspected 100% not just big panels for example. Reports must be reviewed with percentage of rejection mentioned.
No 100% inline inspection for knitted panels found with random measurement check and records maintained.
No SOP established to ensure shade consistency of returned yarns.
Inadequate lighting found in linking section. Should be at least 80 FC.
No pre-established standard from interlining supplier available during production.
Contrast colour strings should not be used to tie bundles to avoid colour transfer.
Some lamps found not working and fixed with gumtape.
Lighting must be 60-80FC in all areas. Any inspection areas must be no less than 80FC.
Conclusion
Fabric Relaxation Machine -Poor line balancing or line balancing could not be verified, as not enough work was available during audit.
Grey fabric costing for 1 Kg = (cost of yarn+ knitting charge + carrying charge) per kg
Given,
1 Kg Cotton Combed Yarn= 265.2 Taka
Knitting charge= 12 Tk./Kg
Carrying cost= 5 Tk./Kg
So, Total cost of grey fabric per Kg = (265.2+12+5) Tk.
=282.2 Tk.
M/C Specification
Manual twist Tester – India
Yarn Appearance Tester – India
Yarn Count Tester – India
Rubbing m/c –1
Pilling Tester –1
Incubator – 1
Tumble Dryer –1
Dryer – Bangladesh -1
Washing m/c –3
Lab dyeing m/c (ECO DYER) –2
Rapid Lab dyeing m/c (ASIAN STAR) –2
Balancing m/c –1
Oven – England –1
pH meter -2
pH shaker -1
Modern Pipette -2
Data Color
Verified Light Box
EMS PROCEDURES:
IDENTIFICATION OF ENVIRONMENTAL ASPECTS IDENTIFICATION OF LEGAL AND OTHER REQUIREMENTS ENVIRONMENTAL TRAINING AND AWARENESS ENVIRONMENTAL COMMUNICATION DOCUMENT AND DATA CONTROL OPERATIONAL CONTROL EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS AND RESPONSE MONITORING AND MEASUREMENT NONCONFORMANCE AND CORRECTIVE AND PREVENTIVE ACTION RECORD CONTROL EMS AUDIT MANAGEMENT REVIEW SOP FOR PAPER CONSUMPTION SOP FOR WASTE HANDLING WORK INSTRUCTION FOR EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS
Conclusion
This factory is doing the work of several important buyers and a number of other important brands are in the process to give orders, like, Mothers Work, Carters etc for Single Jersey Knitting Machine. Several audits from the concerned buyers are expected to be held very soon. As such presence of an experienced compliance officer has become very necessary to oversee the compliance related issues. It may be mentioned here that a number of prospective candidates were selected for. Some didn’t join, while some other left the factory shortly after joining. In view of the same, you are kindly requested to instruct the concerned department to employ someone, who should have well motivation to serve there.
