Button Hole sewing Machine like juki , janome is a simple automatic machine which is used garments industries to make hole of button of apparel. It is easier than hand sewing system. The size of the hole of button hole sewing machine depends on the size of the button. The hole is created by a cutting knife which is operated from the top after stitching. Various type button hole is formed by this modern and latest machine. This is very similar of Attaching Buttonhole Machine
Buttonhole Machine First Sewing Machine:
Buttonhole machine is mainly used for clothing such as dress shirt, pant, knit wear, sweaters etc.
The features of a buttonhole machine is given here which is found in a sewing shop
It is easy adjustment of hole size & stitch density are facilated.
The hole is cut either before or after stitching.
Buttonhole machine is very first sewing machine
It is a straight or shaped slit cut.
Special type of thread is used for sewing and thread of the machine is available on sewing shop
Lock or chain stitch may be used which may be available on sewing shop
This type of machine is available in sewing shop manufactured by different sewing machine company
Guide Line for Button Hole Operation:
For woven tops garments we use two types of button hole machine in production. Types are Purl and whip.
There is a guide line which we have been following but in some cases it is not maintained properly which causes quality failure and reduces productivity. Guide lines are stated below-
For any type of formal shirt button hole operation will be purl and for casual it will be whip.
For any type of wash garments button hole operation will be whip.
If fabric weaving is compact we may go with purl hole.
Exception to the above rules can be applied as per buyer’s requirement.
Specification of Buttonhole Sewing Machine :
Specification of a first singer sewing machine is given below-
The buttonhole sewing machine should be carried by two people as shown in the figure. Hold the motor cover A firmly by hand, so that the pulley will not rotate. Please wear a pair of skid proof shoes while moving the sewing machine. When the machine is ready for operation all the safety devices is not allowed.
Moving the Button
The Installation Position:
Please do not install the sewing machine near the equipment’s such as Television, Radio, or Wireless Telephone. Or these equipment’s will experience electronic interface. The wire should insert to the AC power socket directly. If using the extension wire this might cause malfunction.
Some Faults During Production:
Shadding at neck yoke
Poor shape at armhole
Puckering at slv joint
Needle damage at slv joint
Hole at body
Oil stain
Yarn contamination
Hi-low at front and back part
Shadding at neck yoke
Poor shape at armhole
Puckering at slv joint
Needle damage at slv joint
Hole at body
Oil stain
Yarn contamination
Hi-low at front and back part
Buttonhole Sewing Machine Working Procedure:
Use of knife to make hole according to size
For buttonhole machine of 18 liner hole is created by 9/16 Knife. For button of 14 liner hole is created by 7/16 Knife. Snap button for adjusting with garment’s if button fitting tight then presser should be increase at female button to make free (big) the hole. If snap top side plastic or glass then should be considered for increasing presser and have to adjust a presser that will not damage top side.
Rules to identify about liner of button
As we know,
1 inch = 40 liner
1 inch = 2.54 cm
= 25.4 mm
Liner = 25/ 40 [mm / liner]
= 0.625
Button width = 11 mm
Liner = 11/ 0.625
= 17.60
= 18 [Because after point if the number is bigger than 5 than it counts as 1 and point dismissed]
Rules to set hole at neck and front placket
Rules = front placket width /2 -3 [here 3 mm minus for bartack width]
As rules
If f / placket width = 3 cm = 30 mm
Hole placement of neck will be = (30 / 2 – 3) mm
= 12 mm
If f / placket width = 3.5 cm = 35 mm
Hole placement of neck will be = (35 / 2- 3) mm
= 14.5 mm
Front placket hole placement
Front placket width / 2 = f / plkt hole placement
If , placket width = 30mm
Hole placement will be = (30 / 2) mm
= 15 mm
Rules to set BD button
For setting BD button following rules should follow:
At first we have to fold a gmts as standard fold and after that have to measure collar spread.
According to collar spread have to make a pattern to mark for button attached. To make pattern we have to carry in mind following elements:
collar spread
collar shape
collar point length & width
Note: this pattern should differ from size to size.
Classification of button & hole
There are many kinds of button. But almost using types of button are given below:-
Button stc are two types those are found in sewing shop:-
normal lock stc
cross and lock stc
Hole stc are two types:-
whip
pearl
Use of hole in gmts
For wash item hole should be whip and for non wash item hole should be pearl. Because there is possibility to broken hole (pearl) by wash.
Thread use at button and hole sewing
For hole sewing 60/2 count no thread is used almost time.
For button sewing 50/2 count no thread is used almost of time.
Pull test Procedure of Button Hole Sewing Machine
For Plastic, Snap & Metal button
weight & Time
Standard weight – 90 Newton or 9.5 Kg (Approx) & Standard time – 10 second.
Size set garments & every size at ten pcs should have to pull test. (Procedure can be very)
How To Make A Buttonhole :
Button hole must be suitable for the type of fabric/product/wash
Button hole must have matching thread colour with fabric/top stitches, if no other instruction has been given
Button hole must be sewn/placed according to the order instructions
Button hole must be sewn with sufficient density
Button hole must be stitched through minimum 2 layers of fabric and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate,
Button hole must open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing.
Button hole must One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing. Wearing test
Button hole must must be done if sensitive fabrics!
Button hole must have the right size
Button hole must allow ease of buttoning
Button hole must be clean and nice
Button hole must recommended to pre-stitch around buttonhole before sewing, see Button Guideline
How To Make Buttonholes More Process –
Buttonholes must be sewn on minimum 2 layers of fabrics, and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate, open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing, but wearing test must be done if sensitive fabrics!
Buttonholes must 10-14 stitches for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of thread. Example: o adult garments: 10 for normal button, 14 for big button. Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand
Buttonholes must 7-10 stitches x 2 for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of thread. Example: o adult garments: 7+7 for normal button, 10+10 for big button. Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand 90 N
Buttonholes must be sewn with poly/poly core spun yarn on outerwear garments, o metal- and heavy buttons on all garments (if no specific requirement due to e.g. garment dying etc).
Buttonholes must All other garment types: poly/poly core spun yarn is strongly recommended, but 3 ply thread is also accepted
Buttonholes must when machine stitched, always be attached with lock-stitch machine, if no other instruction has been given
when hand sewn, always be securely stitched on with minimum 4 stitches, with double
thread, and finally fastened with 3 stitches and a knot
when shank button, always be attached through minimum 2 layers of fabric on lock-
stitch machine. If not possible with lockstitch machine it must be secured by hand
after machine sewn. Depending on the type/size of the button, metal or heavy buttons
must be secured with a wrapping around the shank
Minimum Manufacturing Requirements for jersey & knit products
Buttonholes must all uncut threads on the buttons and shanks must be carefully trimmed, 3-5 mm is accepted
Buttonholes must be suitable for fabric/product/wash
Buttonholes must be sewn on/placed according to the order instructions have no sharp edges.
Buttonholes must be colour fast
Sop for Button Hole
AIM: Buttonhole-size regulation to avoid being opened easily when they are bigger than the size of buttons and being opened hard when they are smaller than the size of buttons.
SCOPE: This memorandum covers shirts which are manufactured abroad or within the country.
RESPONSIBLE PARTIES:
Garment Technologist / Chief Pattern Cutters:
Garment Technologists and Chief Pattern Cutters fill in “Risk Analysis Form for the styles that they find risky and write “It has been approved technically; it should be followed carefully in pre-production samples and production,” during technical meetings.
They are responsible for stating the reference number of the related memorandum in the sewing instructions as outlined in Memorandum
Merchandiser: Sending the related memorandum to Manufacturers.
APPLICATION: Preventing buttonholes in shirts from being applied smaller / bigger than buttons: Buttonholes should be appr. 0,1cm bigger than the size of shirt buttons.
Incorrect application (Buttonhole is smaller than the button.)
Correct application (Buttonhole is 0,1cm bigger than the button.)
Conclusion:
This type of Button Hole Sewing Machine is not use for different purpose. It is very popular in the garments industries.
Single Needle Lockstitch machine of Elna, Pfaff and Bernina is developing for garments industries. Lockstitch machine which produces stitches by interlacing of threads is called lock stitch machine. This machine produces durable stitches and is very popular in garment industries. To operate this machine on sewing table one person should have practical knowledge about the plain sewing machine.
Elna Sewing Machine Parts:
Sewing machine parts of single needle machine is given below with a diagram. The diagram shown its different parts.
Parts of lock Stitch Machine
Feed dog
Connection rods
Pressure foot
Upright arm shaft
Upright arm
Arm shaft
Needle bar
Spool pin
Bobbin
Loop taker
Bobbin case
Paddle
Side plate
M/C pulley
Cone stand
Horizontal arm
Head
Face plate
Bed shafts
Checklist for needle and metal control:
Is there a secure location for keeping needles and other tools?
Is there a trained, authorised person to issue needles or other metal tools?
Do the authorised people fully understand the procedure?
Is there a needle record sheet for broken needles?
Is it correctly and accurately completed?
Are all broken needles included on the record sheet?
Do all employees understand the metal control procedure in this area?
Is there a clear procedure for dealing with missing broken needle pieces?
Are there any spare needles at the machines or any unused machines with needles in?
Are there any broken needles on the floor?
Are there any untied small scissors at machines?
Are there any other sharp metal items in the work area?
Are there pins or staples used in this area?
Checklist for needle and metal detection
Is the metal detector located at the end of the process so all items pass through without being missed?
Do all products pass directly into a metal free zone after being detected?
Has the metal detector been serviced in the past 12 months?
Does the metal detector only detect non-ferrous metal?
Is the machine operator trained to use the machine?
If metal is detected, does the conveyor stop and an alarm sound?
Is there a record sheet for metal pieces found?
Is the machine restarted by a key?
Is there an isolation box for items where the metal contamination cannot be found?
Is the 9 point system used to check the metal detector prior to any product being metal detected?
Are there record sheets for all system checks?
Function of Single Needle Lockstitch Machine:
For sewing light or heavy fabric i.e. all kinds of plain sewing. It use different types of single needle. It is very easy to install the needles in the machine.
Features of Lock Stitch Machine on Sewing Table:
The features of a lock stitch machine on sewing table is stated here berifly-
Stiches are produced on sewing table by interlocking of lockstitch sewing machine
Bobbin and bobbin case are present on sewing table
Threads are supplied on sewing table from cone.
It has one needle and one bobbin.
Specifications of LockStitch Machine:
The specification of a elna lockstitch machine is specified below-
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category
Sewing
Machine Category
Lock Stitch Machine
Product Name
Lock Stitch Machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Group
Lock stitch (Interlacement)
Stitch per minute
1500
Needle size
9,11,14,16,18,20,21
Thread per inch
2.5”
No of needle
One needles
Seam class
300
Description
Should be error free.
Adjusting Stitch Length of Elna Single Needle Machine:
Stitch length of Elna Single Needle can be adjusted variably in range from 1.6mm – 4.2mm, or 6-16 stitch per inch.
Keep pressing the push button A with the left hand then run the hand-wheel with the right hand until you feel the push button lock in for single needle lockstitch machine.
Keep turning the hand-wheel for a inquired stitch length. Turn the pulley and align the inquired scale with mark B and then stop pressing the button
Rotate the hand wheel clockwise to increase the stitch length and counter clockwise to decrease for single needle lockstitch machine
Adjusting the stitch length will change the differential feed ratio, therefore after adjusting the stitch length, please adjust the differential feed ratio
S.O.P of Sewing:
To maintain the best quality of Auto garment Group. Any garment of every order & every style when we confirm from buyer for trail or bulk production, at first we (qa. Manager, production manager, maintenance manager, qc supervisor, sewing supervisor, line qc) discuss, all points of the order with p.p. Sample, trim card, order sheet, spec, pattern, buyer comments at pre production meeting then we make a lay out & start making the garments, our line qc/qc supervisor check & measurement every process properly & note on style check file. After complete the garments we (qc supervisor, qa supervisor, qa manager) properly check style one pcs garments with order sheet, p.p. Sample, trim card, spec. Buyer comments & keep record properly. Our qa team complete ipc inspection & keep record properly.
In the production time we maintain * traffic light system * in-line inspection * random measurement * measurement every size every colour every day * wash test * end of the 100% inspection, we keep all record properly.
Purpose: Identification and control of the needles which are broken in the sewing lines during production to ensure product safety.
Scope: All needles broken at the production floor of Auto Garments Limited.
Responsibility: QC Manager and Production Manager is responsible for ensuring that the procedure is properly followed and Executed.
Store Officer (sub store) is responsible for ensuring proper collection of all broken parts of a needle when a replacement needle is being provided.
Line Supervisor, Quality Control In-charge and Production Manager are responsible for taking immediate action when broken parts of a needle has been reported as lost by the operator.
Procedure:Each and every needle breakage shall be recorded in Broken Needle Register (No. F/ST/29) mentioning date, operator name, card no., process, Line no., Buyer’s name, Needle size, Quantity, Change needle no., sign. of operator, issued by, sign of supervisor, sign of Manager, remarks.
When a needle is reported as broken the line supervisor/Operator must bring and submit all the broken parts of the needle in order to receive a replacement.The store officer will issue a replacement needle and preserve the broken parts in the Broken Needle Register (No. F/ST/29). The Issue will be recorded in the same register.
If all the parts of the needle cannot be located, report shall be made to the QC In-charge and Production Manager and the specific garment and all other garment/garment component located near the single needle lockstitch machine shall be segregated and put in a bin with identification board writing “BROKEN NEEDLE/DO NOT TOUCH”
Each and every garment put in the bin shall be separately inspected using a Metal detector by the Operator and QC In-charge.The single needle lockstitch machine shall be checked using a metal detector by the QC In-charge / QC Inspector.
If the broken part cannot be found, Production Manager and QC In-charge shall make decision and authorize the issue of a replacement needle by signing on the broken needle register after verification of the previous activities performed by the QC In-charge, line supervisor and operator.
Garments segregated in step 5.4 shall be thoroughly checked and confirmed that those are free from any broken needle parts before issuing them to production floor.
Conclusion:
It can also be called plain stitch machine. Here different sizes of needle can be used as per requirements. Single needle lockstitch machine mostly used in the garments industries.
Sewing machine is a machine is developed by Bernina, juki, janome, elna, pfaff which is used to stitch fabric, cards or other materials together with thread. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed though some are made without cutters. Overlock stitches are very versatile, as they can be used for adornment, einforcement. The people should be trained how to use a sewing machine.
List of Sewing Machine.
List of sewing machine of sewing machine is given below –
In this factory different types of sewing machine are available. By using them they perform different operations. Some of them and their purposes are mentioned below are mentioned below:
Hem
SNLS (Single Needle Lock Stitch) – Used to perform all types of tacks
O/L (Over-lock) – Used to join two part like; side seam, sleeve join, shoulder join etc.
F/L (Flat-lock) – Used to perform all forms of hem, zigzag and top stitch
Button attach- For attaching buttons
Button hole- To make hole for button
Snap button –
Bar tack – For the purpose of bar tack
Thread trimmer – For trimming thread
Piping Cutter – for the purpose of cutting piping
Back tape machine – To attach back tape
Types of stitch: Hemming: Hems give edges (like necklines and the ends of sleeves and pant legs) a smooth, completed appearance.
Zigzag: These can slow down raveling along the edges of seams.
zigzag
Basting: A longer length straight stitch, basting is faster and easier to tear out than normal stitching.
Backstitch: This classic stitch works great for holding fabric together—even large pieces that have to take a lot of strain.
Backstitch
Tacking: Tacking is any sort of casual stitch that holds small areas fabric in place, sort of like a soft, permanent safety pin. The whip stitch (shown below) works well for this.
Tacking
Other types of stitch which are commonly done are mentioned below:
Chain stitch
Saddle stitch
Slag stitch/ blind stitch
Tiny over-lock
Parts of the machine: Parts of some the sewing machines are mentioned below:
Flat-lock:
Tension post- 5
Hand wheel
Cotton stand
3/2/1 needle
Needle bar
Feed dog
Paddle
Among the 5 tension posts two for looper, spreader is attached with the top 2. Where 3 for needle.
SNLS:
Hand wheel
Stitch counter
Panel board
Handle for back stitch
Thread take up looper
Switch for back stitch.
Over-lock:
Tension post-4
Guide
Eye guard
Needle-2
Knife
Button attaches:
Tension post
Panel board
Figure of a common type of sewing machine: Guides, attachment and holder: For some specific operations, to make operations more precise and easier guide, attachments and holders are used. Some of them are mentioned below;
Parts of a sewing machine control box is stated below-
Parts of a Sewing Machine Control Box
Detection Lamp
Sensitivity adjusting knob
Operation count (rear)
Power switch
Power Lamp
Pressure foot lamp
Operation count front
Clock Lamp
Sewing Machine Installation Instructions:
Please confirm the followings to avoid malfunction or damage to this machine.
After installing the machine and before the first operation please clean it completely.
Clean all dust and overflowed oil during transportation.
Confirm the voltage and the phase of motor are set correctly
Confirm that the power plug is correctly connected to the power supply
Never use the machine when the local voltage type is different from the marked volage on the nametag attached on the machine
Confirm that the rotating direction of the machine pulley is correct
Before dong any operation or any adjustment described later in this manual, please turn the power off to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.
Sewing Machine Installation Instructions
Sewing Machine Safety Instructions:
For operating safely and getting the best functions of this machine, everybody should operate the machine correctly
When the machine is ready for operation, all the safety equipment’s must be ready. Operate the machines without the specified safety devices is not allowed.
The machine must be operated by a properly trained operator
Before using the machine, please ascertain that it conforms with safety standards and regulations of your country
For your own safety, we suggest you wearing googles.
Do not touch any functioning parts and devices. Always attend t o whether power switch is on or off before operating in order to prevent anyone from getting hurts.
Qualified technicians are required for adjustment, modification, and repair. Only use assigned parts for replacement.
Routine maintenance and service must be performed by will trained person, or qualified technicians.
Maintain and check the electronic parts must be done by qualified or malfunctioned, stop the machine immediately.
To ensure the best performance periodically clean the machine is necessary.
Select proper power plug and install it by an electrician. Please connect the power plug to grounded receptacle
Standard Operating Procedure For Sewing Machine Floor:
Need approved trim card.
All patterns should be signature by pattern manager.
Duplicate counter sample should be hanged in front of line with counter comments & sample must be signature by sample manager.
Must have country plan & shade plan in sewing line.
Garments should not keep on the floor.
Machine needs to clean in every morning before starting works. If any issue report to mechanic & solve the problem immediately or change the machine.
In-seam & out-seam should be sewing from bottom to top.
Polyester label & elastic must be cut by heat cutter.
7 pieces audit for covering all machine.
Same number parts need to be sewing for each garment.
Un-even layer should be control.
Twisting should be check/control (100% follow the cut mark).
Process QC & end of the line QC should be make report hourly.
Floor QC in-charge should be complete styling from every line with counter sample.
Needle guard & eye guard should be use for all machines sewing floor.
Foods are not allowed inside the sewing floor.
Scissors & cutters need to fasten with the machine.
All measuring tape should be caliber & need to be change in every three months.
Standard Operating Procedure For Sewing Machine Floor
Sewing Machine History:
The first sewing machine history is patent connected to mechanical sewing was a 1750 British patent issued to German, Charles Weisenthal and he trained peple how to use a sewing machine. Weisenthal was delivered a patent for a old model needle that was designed for a machine, however, the model did not describe the rest of the machine if one existed.
[1] Abdullah Al Chemi, Staff Reporter at Latest Bd News, B.Sc. in Apparel Manufacture & Technology, BUFT
Digital Sewing machine is a discovery of digital technology which is used in garments industry. These machines are programmable machines with digit / digits allow the user to create pieces of design to make their own clothes faster and better than the old style machines. Today’s modern technology and computerized sewing design the user can be producing artistic needlework in short time by this type of digital electronics
Digital Technology for Computerized Sewing Machine:
The automatic MCD unit of auto sewing machine, complete with sewing machine, is made for sewing the fronts of shirts. It distinguishes itself for easy to use and the quality of the final product. During stitching, the system aligns the fabric for perfect stitching. The fabric then passed under a heated puller to eliminate wrinkles in the front strip.
Auto Sewing Machine
The machine is surrounded with automatic thread cutting and stacking, sewing and conveying speed are adjusted electronically of the system. The stitch length can vary from a minimum of 0.9 to a maximum of 35 mm, the sewn stitches are counted electronically using a PLC program.
By using computerized sewing software of computerized sewing machine enables the user to create patterns from a simple chain stitch.
Auto sewing machines of lockstitch can help the business person compete in today’s clothing market.
Garments that would have taken weeks to finish before the auto sewing machine can now be done in a matter of hours
Auto sewing machines offer the user many options to turn around on projects.
Computerized Sewing Machine have built in digitizer
It is also called Computerized Sewing Machine
SOP for Sewing Machine Maintenance:
Maintenance department is headed by maintenance manager. All the maintenance mechanics and other supporting staffs of maintenance department report to the maintenance manager.
Maintenance management system: Machines and spare parts inventory are maintained in this software system. Machinery and spare parts movement between the factories of Lenny are entered in this software and after the entry an auto generated delivery Chelan is created by the software for documentation purpose. In this system we are able to track machinery locations and the complete history of the each and individual machines. In this system we are able to analyze consumption of spare parts and inventory.
Machinery maintenance(Preventive maintenance)
Periodical sewing machine maintenance
Weekly sewing machine maintenance
Daily sewing machine maintenance (Product safety machine special checkup)
Periodical maintenance: Preventive maintenance is very important activities of the maintenance department. This preventive maintenance activity helps in avoiding the unexpected machine breakdowns and it increases the life of the machines. Preventive maintenance was been done as per the schedule made by the maintenance head. Schedule plan will cover whole Lenny in 40 to 45 days.
Weekly maintenance: One line of one factory machines will be checked by the respective line mechanic , in this way we will complete one factory in one week. This rive is called as the maintenance drive. In the maintenance drive , all the machines are been check completely and the problems found was been rectified immediately and faulty operators are been counseled and trained in maintenance drive.
Daily maintenance: (Product safety machine special checkup): In the daily maintenance the product safety machines like BTN attach , button hole , eyelet hole , snap attach are specially checked by the trained finishing mechanics.
Hang Tag Machine Needle, Hand Needle and Plastic Stapler Needle Control:
Needle control policy covers the needle being used in hang tag attach machine and plastic stapler machine.
There is only one central position to receive and issue needles to floor, that is maintenance store.
Transaction is maintained though software and needles are issued on replaced basis or when all parts are produced to central store.
All broken and replaced needles policy are secured in sharp tool control box maintained in central maintenance store.
After 06 months the needles are buried in Needle Grave yard.
Used Needle Control:
The physically used needle should match our account whatever we issue in the production floor.
All the use needle should be keep in our record & maintain the quantity
Needle Accessories Storage
From now on a new needle will be issued only when complete parts of a single needle will be submitted.
Operators are not getting new needle until complete parts are deposited.
Needle issuers at the store have been given strict warning to strictly follow needle control policy/ broken needle policy.
As we have seen number of findings regarding needle control issue, we have decided to arrange some refresher training session where all the store staffs will be trained to avoid needle control related problems in future.
Respective sewing line manager has been given warning regarding this issue.
Actually needle control register is not fake rather some unintentional mistakes of store a store keeper made it look like this. However from now on we will be more careful.
Now no garment is passed in final packing area without being metal checked and related register is being maintained strictly.
Cutting section has been reorganized and excessive fabric have been moved from dumping situation.
Idle cutting machines have been moved away and kept in a separate place.
From now on we will keep and lay fabric according to individual color in cutting section.
All sorts of carton/ table have been moved to keep path obstacle free.
Respective operator was given warning regarding keeping body after stitching.
We feel sorry for that. Respective line manager, line chief and supervisor were given strict warning that no future negligence will be tolerated regarding keeping body on the floor.
We have checked the whole floor and got rid of all kinds of unauthorized blade or metal movement.
Actually we never run production without exhibiting approved sample in the line however in all the Buyer lines we have made approved sample available which is hanged on the line.
Accessories storage area has been reorganized and store in-charge has been given proper instruction to avoid any kind of inconsistency between stock register and original balance.
Any kind of prohibited chemical has been absolutely banned from spot removing section and respective supervisor has been warned about this matter.
There is no back log in packing area now. Finished goods are now properly kept on the rack according to color, style and whatever needed.
Metal Detection Control:
Metal detection machine should be calibration two time morning & evening before start the production & keep the proper record
Metal detection procedure shall be applicable to kids and JAPAN shipments unless it is specifically mentioned by buyer.
Metal detection machine will be keep metal free zone area.
Detector must be use 1.2 mm card with the 9 points method.
All the garment should be checked detector machine before ship the garments, if found any garment not passed in our detector machine this garments should be kept & log as evidence in Red Box properly.
During calibration, if calibration is failed, since we have track of each carton identification, we are able to call back the goods passed through machine in last hour and all garments in those identified cartons needs to be checked 100%
Sewing Machine Maintenance – Needle Detector :
Detector should be calibrated every 1 year & this record should be keep.
Maintenance in charge cleaning record should be keep detector machine area.
Mechanical sewing machine is migrating into computerized sewing machine rapidly. A short description is given here about mechanical vs digital sewing machine. Singer use mechanical engineering for mechanical mahine and janome use computerized technology for manufacturing there product and vice versa. Garments owner purchase sewing machines to progress the efficiency of several sewing tasks. There aere two types of machines are available, mechanical and computerized, which operate differently and contain varying features. Both types can do the basic function of making uniform stitches in fabric using two sources of thread. The decision to purchase one of these machines is heavily based on the customers required functions, skill level, frequency of use.
Mechanical Sewing Machine:
Mechanical sewing machine e.g. singer sewing machine operate on electricity but contain mechanical gears and parts. All of the levers, switches, knobs, and dials require manual control from the user. For adding accessories and parts must be purchased and installed manually. The quality of sewing machine stitches are different also.
Mechanical Sewing Machines
Computerized Sewing Machine:
Computerized sewing machine contain microprocessors which is digital technology to control the different program. The Stitches are stored on memory. The computer receive the user’s settings for simple setup and operation. The processes are automatically controlled by the machine after the user inputs the desired instruction. The user can download program from internet and can installed for better work. The latest sewing machine are called portable sewing machine. The latest sewing machine is treated as best sewing machine on the market.
Computerized Sewing Machines
Standard Operating Procedures of Sewing:
Sewing: It is the process of joining the cut parts by formation of Seams to produce a wearable garment having an acceptable level of Quality Standard described by the Buyer.
Importance of Sewing: Sewing is the Backbone of the apparel manufacturing industry, involving utilization of machines and physical manpower. If the sewing department is functioning properly and production methods are followed correctly, it provides an edge in the industry to survive.
Sewing Department: The following sections constitute the Sewing department:
CPU (Small parts are joined together which are sent to assembly)
Input Section (Front and Back Parts are prepared)
Output Section (Assembly operations comprise the output section)
Each sewing line consists of 1 Input Supervisor, 1 Output Supervisor (Line Manager), 2 Roving Q/C’s and one End Line Q/C to maintain production as well as quality of the output.
Sewing Machine SOP
Case Study About mechanical sewing machine and Computerized Sewing Machine
Manufacturing System
The manufacturing systems can be divided into 2 types, basically
Push system – Anticipates future demands or needs and what we do today is determined by what we think will be needed at some time in the future. In push system, a schedule is prepared in advance for a series of workstations, each workstation pushes its completed work to next station. The orders are evaluated at supplying location. In this, the stock available at the supplier and the distribution to various retailers is taken into account. It is helpful for accomplishing scheduled production in a non-stop flow. It has redesigned, fixed assembly line, single purpose portable sewing machine with high output capacities. The inventory between stages is high.
Pull system – Replacing stock after consumption has occurred what we do today is to replace what was used yesterday.
Pull system is not a preferred system in the company as the labor is cheap and the country does not has a solid retail market, so most manufacturing is done for export purpose.
Disadvantages of Pull system in the sub-continent
In the sub-continent countries especially Bangladesh, where the retail market is more-or-less absent, the pull system carries the following disadvantages.
Limited ability to adapt to changes in product or product mix (ex. portable sewing machine are of limited capacity and the tooling necessary for products is not always feasible in a given FMS), and the style variation is very frequent so it loses grounds on that account.
Substantial pre-planning is required which is a lacking in the country.
The installation and implementation is expensive, and costs millions of dollars
Technological problems of exact component positioning and precise timing necessary to process a component
Sophisticated manufacturing systems
Advantages of Push systems
The push system helps to cope up with the frequent style changes, which is one of the feature of export based garment manufacturing.
The work can be done for small lot sizes, and in garments industry, there are many cases in which we get to see small orders for a style or small color wise order of the same style.
The push system also helps us to meet the short delivery deadlines, which is a major concern with export-based garments and it helps to fulfill this requirement in most of the cases.
Manufacturing System in Auto Group Ltd.
In Auto Group Ltd, there are 15 lines (5lines per floor), these are all assembly lines having around 40 workstations per line and all these operations are assembly related and these lines are assembly lines.
Apart from the assembly lines, there are preparatory-section which work on a modular basis, especially for cuff and collar preparation. The preparatory section consists of the first 4-6 workstations of every line and also, there is another section in the corner of every floor for the same purpose.
In all, we can say that the manufacturing system followed is a blend of two manufacturing systems, namely
Progressive Bundling Unit (PBU)
Assembly line
Progressive Bundling Unit (PBU)
In PBS production, sewing operations are broken down by management into a number of distinct Progressive bundling and separate operations depending on the complexity of the garment.
Management assigns an expected sewing time or “standard” (in minutes) for each operation such that the amount of effort required to sew a standard minute is equivalent across tasks.
Workers are paid based on individual piece rates according to the standard set for the operation they undertake. In addition to the piece rate standard, workers also receive an hourly wage, or variance pay, when work is interrupted.
The advantages of the PBU system can be listed as under:
Helps to cope up with frequent style changes
Helpful for small lot sizes also
Allows the garment manufacturer to meet short delivery deadlines
The disadvantages faced on following the PBU system are:
Greater amount of WIP
Single operator single skill
Individual piece rates and incentives
Shop floor supervision
Productivity effected by rate of absenteeism
Worker performs repetitive motions
Assembly Line
An assembly line is a manufacturing process in which interchangeable parts are added to a product in a sequential manner to create a product. It can also be called a process where discrete parts are put together to make a finished product. The assembly line operations are a high volume operation that produces products that are very similar in features and performance. Items are produced in a continuous manner, with usually only one possible routing.
It is a very productive production system, and at the same time, the layout is product oriented. Typically, it is a line of dissimilar portable sewing machine is grouped in the line (sometimes more than one to balance flow). Line balancing is a key in the assembly line system as the amount of output varies by varying the sequence of operations and the material flow. Though the assembly line carries a disadvantage of being very inflexible, as the Computerized Sewing Machine layout cannot be altered very often, yet it is most commonly used in the garments industry.
As a part of internship work, I was supposed to cover 2different styles of shirts in the sewing floor from entering the floor to the dispatch to the finishing section. The study in the style included the time study, the method study (process charts and LH/RH charts for each operations). Based on the time study data, the calculations were done to find out the line efficiency, throughput time and the inventory level.
The sewing department covered the most part of the study and it required many calculations to come up with the right data and figures to support and suggest the appropriate changes to the company. The method study also helped to make suggestions on reducing the idle time and the delays from processes.
For the purpose of study, I covered the 2different styles of shirts
Men’s Long Sleeve Hidden B/D Collar Shirt (HAGGAR-PROMINENT APPAREL LTD.)
Men’s Long Sleeve Point Collar Shirt (CAPITAL MERCURY, CARHARTT)
Men’s L/S Hidden B/D Collar Shirt
The style was introduced in many stages as it had a very big order size but the color variation was also frequent. Since the fabric is check/stripe, therefore, the problem of shade variation is not very common. Considering this fact, the order was introduced in the line with a very big bundle size of 279 pieces per bundle. This size was actually determined by the number of lays spread in the spreading/cutting department.
In all, one line engages nearly 85 people and only about 32 of them are operators, the rest all are engaged in either the quality inspection, thread trimming or simply as a helper.
Line Efficiency
Line efficiency= Actual pieces/day x100
Ideal pieces/day
Actual pieces/hour= minimum number of pieces in the line
Ideal pieces per day= No. of operators X Available minutes in a day
SMV of the garment
Now, for this particular style, the minimum number of pieces in the line is 78 pieces
Therefore, actual number of pieces in a day (9hours)= 78X9= 702 pieces
Operators required= 46
Therefore, the operator time taken in a day = 46X5400min= 24840min
Hence, the ideal pieces/day= 24840 = 1489 pieces
16.68
Line efficiency= 702 X100 = 47.15%
1489
From this calculation, it is very clear that the line efficiency is very less and has to be immediately taken into account.
SOP for Sewing: First of all PP Meeting is conducted. This meeting conducted in presence of GM, PM, QM, TM, Line Manager, Maintenance Manager, IE and respective Merchandiser.
After PP Meeting, Red Tag Sample and Trim Chart is provided by the merchandiser along with the Tech Pack and the Technical sheet. The I.E. Department provides the Style bulletin containing the details of Machinery and Manpower allocation.
Cut Parts are received from Cutting.
Pilot run / 1st Bulk is done. It is checked for Quality / Measurement and Shrinkage Issues, Washing issues and also the product safety issues are also discussed .In case of any issue, immediate meeting is conducted and attended by GM, PM, QM and TM to sort out the issue.
Once, all the quality / measurement issues are resolved, approval for bulk cutting is provided and accordingly Bulk Sewing commences.
The Roving Q/C checks randomly 7 pcs from random work stations. In case of any Quality issues, it is immediately highlighted to the Line manager as well as the Technical manager. These issues are sorted immediately.
The End Line Q/C checks 100 % garments for Quality and 2Pcs every Hour for Measurement. Any issues are immediately highlighted to the PM, QM and TM for sorting out the issue.
All the Q/C Pass pcs are sent for wash. Washing is done Style/ Color/ Lot/ Recipe wise. 100 % pcs are checked for Hand feel, Washing Standard and Measurement. If any issues are encountered, rewash is done to achieve the acceptable quality standard.
After washing, garments are issued to finishing (Size/ Lot wise).
Reports in Sewing Section: Ten reports are being made in the Sewing Section:
