Soft Wool Winder

Soft Wool Winder – The aim of this test is to establish whether a fibre-level dyeing can be achieved with a given levelling agent. The test is primarily important for the Lanasol (reactive dyes for wool). It is similar to  Deep Dyeing

No. Features Specs
1 Number of heads 1
2 Speed (m/min) 100-1000
  Adopter type Tapper (All Angles), Straight Package
3 Traverse for cylindrical bobbins

Determination of the levelling and retarding power of levelling agents with reactive and special wool dyes

Principle         

Lanaset ( specially selected dyes for wool ) ranges. It can, however, also be used for other dye classes with due allowance for the relevant recipes and application methods.

Retardation of dye uptake and fibre levelness (root / tip) are assessed visually.

Procedure      

Reactive dyes

Substrate Australian wool, ( No. 3-1004 ). The material is wetted hot and left to cool overnight in the standing bath.  
Dye 2%            Lanasol Red G  
Chemicals   4%            ammonium sulfate pH 5 – 5.5 adjusted with acetic acid 80 %  
Auxiliary 0 – 1 – 2 %                    (higher amounts if necessary)  
Liquor ratio 40 : 1, de-ionized water  
Apparatus AHIBA dyebath or VISTACOLOR ( dyeing basket )  
Method Batchwise exhaustion as follows :
What is Soft Wool Winder For Dyeing
Important The pH must be checked before and after dyeing (pH meter).  If there are nmarked variations, the test series must be repeated. The liquor lost by evaporation during dyeing must be made up with de-ionized water adjusted to pH 5.5.  
Aftertreatment After dyeing, the wool is taken out of the bath and left to drain. It is then aftertreated in a fresh bath (liquor ratio 40 : 1) at pH 8.5 (adjusted with ammonia) for 15′ at 80°C, rinsed and neutralized with formic acid 85 %.
Exhaustion test The exhaustion test shows whether a product retards dye uptake.
Apparatus   AHIBA Texomat
Substrate   Liquor ratio 5 g wool test fabric, chlorinated    ( No. 3-3008 )   40 : 1
Assessment After it has been rinsed and dried, the dyeing is assessed for fibre levelness (root / tip), and retardation of dye uptake. To assess a levelling agent, parallel dyeings must be carried out, one with a known reference product and one without levelling agent   Albegal B is the state-of-the-art reference product for use with reactive dyes for wool.

2.         Lanaset dyes

Substrate Australian wool,( No. 3-1004 ). The material is wetted hot and left to cool overnight in the standing bath.  
Dyes 0.75%  Lanaset Yellow 2R 0.65%  Lanaset Orange R 0.48%  Lanaset Gray G  
Chemicals   1          g/l        sodium acetate cryst. 5          %         Glauber’ salt anhyd.   pH 4.5 adjusted with acetic acid 80 %  
Auxiliary 0 – 1 – 2 %                   (higher amounts if necessary)  
Liquor ratio 40 : 1, de-ionized water  
Apparatus AHIBA dyebath, VISTACOLOR or TURBOMAT  
Method Batchwise exhaustion as follows  :
Important The pH must be checked before and after dyeing (pH meter).  If there are nmarked variations, the test series must be repeated. The liquor lost by evaporation during dyeing must be made up with de-ionized water adjusted to pH 4.5.  
Rinsing Rinse with running warm and cold water.
Exhaust test The exhaustion test shows whether a product retards dye uptake. Procedure as for Lanasol dyes.  
Assessment     : After it has been rinsed and dried, the dyeing is assessed for fibre levelness (root / tip), and retardation of dye uptake. To assess a levelling agent, parallel dyeings must be carried out, one with a known reference product and one without levelling agent   Albegal SET is the state-of-the-art reference product for use with Lanasol dyes.

Working Instruction

BUYER SPRING  FIELD .     
REF WOOL  CHECK  .   
STYLE MEN’S  LONG  SLEEVE CLASSIC COLLAR SHIRT.
QUANTITY FOLLOW  THE  ORDER  SHEET .  Plus/ minus Quantity = 5 % . 
DELIVERY T.B.C  
FABRIC 100%   COTTON  CHECK  .      
INTER LINING T/C  NON FUSED AT  COLLAR   , BAND , F/PLKT  , FLAP  & CUFF   .
MAIN LABEL “SPRING FIELD”  ATT  AT  YOKE  INSIDE   2  CM  BELOW  FM  BAND  EDGE ,  4  SIDE STITCH  .
SIZE  LABEL   WITH  IN  MAIN  LABEL  .
EXTRA LABEL “LOOK COOL” ATT  AT  CENTER  OF  BAND  MIDDLE  ,  2  SIDE  STITCH S.P.F”  ATT  AT   RIGHT   SLV   PLKT  BOX , 4  SIDE  ST  (AS SAMPLE) .  . 
BTM  LABEL N/A .
BUTTON (PLASTIC 4HOLE –LOGO  & SNAP ) 18/L  NECK   1  PCE  ,  FRONT  5  PCS (ONLY  BODY  LAST  BTN  – SNAP )  ,  1  PCE  EACH  PKT  & 2 PCS  EACH CUFF . 14/L = 1 PCE   EACH   SLV  PLKT .    
CARE  &  BARCODE  LABEL ATT AT L.H. S  SEAM  12  CM UP FM  BTM  HEM , FOLLOW  THE  BELOW  NOTE  (AS  WORN) .  
SPARE BTN 18/L  &  14/L =  1  PCE  ATT   AT  LOWER  INSIDE  5  CM  &  4 CM  UP  FM  BTM  HEM  .
THREAD MATCHING   (COUNT –  50/2  ) .
CUFF 6  CM  WIDTH   MITTRED  CUFF , 1  HOLE , 2  BTN  , 2  PLEAT  AT  CUFF   JOINT , PLKT  EDGE  TO  1ST  PLEAT 4 CM  REST  OF  PLEAT  2 CM .
COLLAR STAY N/A .
COLLAR CLASSIC  COLLAR  (SINGLE  LAYER)  WITH  TWILL  TAPE  ATT  AT  NECK  JOINT .  
FRONT 3  CM  WIDTH  ¼”   WELTED KANSAI  WITH  2  PLEAT (AS SAMPLE)  .
BACK PLAIN  .
YOKE DOUBLE  .
POCKET 2 CHEST  POINTED  PKT  WITH  FLAP (BIAS  CUT) , PKT  ROLLING  1.2 CM ,  DECO  ST  AT  FLAP  TOP SIDE , PKT  INCLUDING  FLAP (L´W) = (12.5´11) CM , PKT  POSITION  (FOLLOW  THE  SPEC) .

Objectives

• More systemic approach to Quality Management
• To improve Quality outputs
• Change from reactive to pro-active mindset
• Create a pro-Quality ethos in the business
• To protect the integrity of the WW Brand
• To support profitable growth by ensuring Customer confidence and satisfaction by reducing the Cost of Quality (COQ)
• Create more awareness on the continuous improvement of Quality
• Introduce more rigorous supplier management trough Quality and Safety fines, Quality meetings etc.
• Improve reliability of information and quality data
• More impact on 5.0 supplier strategy
• Maintin adherence to all relevant legislation, including Consumer Protection Act