Soft Wool Winder – The aim of this test is to establish whether a fibre-level dyeing can be achieved with a given levelling agent. The test is primarily important for the Lanasol (reactive dyes for wool). It is similar to Deep Dyeing
No.
Features
Specs
1
Number of heads
1
2
Speed (m/min)
100-1000
Adopter type
Tapper (All Angles), Straight Package
3
Traverse for cylindrical bobbins
Determination of the levelling and retarding power of levelling agents with reactive and special wool dyes
Principle
Lanaset ( specially selected dyes for wool ) ranges. It can, however, also be used for other dye classes with due allowance for the relevant recipes and application methods.
Retardation
of dye uptake and fibre levelness (root / tip) are assessed visually.
Procedure
Reactive dyes
Substrate
Australian
wool, ( No. 3-1004 ). The material is wetted hot and left to cool overnight
in the standing bath.
The
pH must be checked before and after dyeing (pH meter). If there are nmarked variations, the test
series must be repeated.
The
liquor lost by evaporation during dyeing must be made up with de-ionized
water adjusted to pH 5.5.
Aftertreatment
After
dyeing, the wool is taken out of the bath and left to drain.
It
is then aftertreated in a fresh bath (liquor ratio 40 : 1) at pH 8.5
(adjusted with ammonia) for 15′ at 80°C, rinsed and neutralized with formic
acid 85 %.
Exhaustion test
The
exhaustion test shows whether a product retards dye uptake.
Apparatus
AHIBA
Texomat
Substrate
Liquor
ratio
5
g wool test fabric, chlorinated (
No. 3-3008 )
40
: 1
Assessment
After
it has been rinsed and dried, the dyeing is assessed for fibre levelness
(root / tip), and retardation of dye uptake.
To
assess a levelling agent, parallel dyeings must be carried out, one with a
known reference product and one without levelling agent
Albegal
B is the state-of-the-art reference product for use with reactive dyes for
wool.
2. Lanaset dyes
Substrate
Australian wool,( No. 3-1004 ). The material is wetted hot
and left to cool overnight in the standing bath.
Dyes
0.75% Lanaset
Yellow 2R
0.65% Lanaset
Orange R
0.48% Lanaset Gray
G
Chemicals
1 g/l sodium acetate cryst.
5 % Glauber’ salt anhyd.
pH 4.5 adjusted with acetic acid 80 %
Auxiliary
0 – 1 – 2 % (higher
amounts if necessary)
Liquor ratio
40 : 1, de-ionized water
Apparatus
AHIBA dyebath, VISTACOLOR or TURBOMAT
Method
Batchwise exhaustion as follows :
Important
The pH must be checked before and after dyeing (pH
meter). If there are nmarked
variations, the test series must be repeated.
The liquor lost by evaporation during dyeing must be made
up with de-ionized water adjusted to pH 4.5.
Rinsing
Rinse with running warm and cold water.
Exhaust test
The exhaustion test shows whether a product retards dye
uptake.
Procedure as for
Lanasol dyes.
Assessment :
After it has been rinsed and dried, the dyeing is assessed
for fibre levelness (root / tip), and retardation of dye uptake.
To assess a levelling agent, parallel dyeings must be
carried out, one with a known reference product and one without levelling
agent
Albegal SET is the state-of-the-art reference product for
use with Lanasol dyes.
Working Instruction
BUYER
SPRING FIELD .
REF
WOOL CHECK .
STYLE
MEN’S LONG SLEEVE CLASSIC COLLAR SHIRT.
QUANTITY
FOLLOW THE ORDER
SHEET . Plus/ minus Quantity =
5 % .
DELIVERY
T.B.C
FABRIC
100% COTTON CHECK
.
INTER LINING
T/C NON FUSED AT COLLAR , BAND
, F/PLKT , FLAP & CUFF
.
MAIN LABEL
“SPRING FIELD” ATT AT YOKE INSIDE
2 CM BELOW
FM BAND EDGE , 4 SIDE
STITCH .
SIZE LABEL
WITH IN
MAIN LABEL .
EXTRA LABEL
“LOOK COOL” ATT AT CENTER
OF BAND MIDDLE
, 2 SIDE
STITCH S.P.F” ATT AT
RIGHT SLV PLKT
BOX , 4 SIDE ST
(AS SAMPLE) . .
BTM LABEL
N/A .
BUTTON (PLASTIC 4HOLE –LOGO & SNAP )
18/L
NECK 1 PCE
, FRONT 5
PCS (ONLY BODY LAST
BTN – SNAP ) ,
1 PCE EACH
PKT & 2 PCS EACH CUFF . 14/L = 1 PCE EACH
SLV PLKT .
CARE & BARCODE LABEL
ATT AT L.H. S SEAM
12 CM UP FM BTM
HEM , FOLLOW THE BELOW
NOTE (AS WORN) .
SPARE BTN
18/L & 14/L =
1 PCE ATT AT LOWER INSIDE
5 CM &
4 CM UP FM
BTM HEM .
THREAD
MATCHING (COUNT – 50/2 ) .
CUFF
6 CM WIDTH
MITTRED CUFF , 1 HOLE , 2
BTN , 2 PLEAT
AT CUFF JOINT , PLKT EDGE
TO 1ST PLEAT 4 CM
REST OF PLEAT
2 CM .
COLLAR STAY
N/A .
COLLAR
CLASSIC COLLAR (SINGLE
LAYER) WITH TWILL
TAPE ATT AT
NECK JOINT .
FRONT
3 CM WIDTH
¼” WELTED
KANSAI WITH 2
PLEAT (AS SAMPLE) .
BACK
PLAIN .
YOKE
DOUBLE .
POCKET
2 CHEST POINTED PKT
WITH FLAP (BIAS CUT) , PKT
ROLLING 1.2 CM , DECO
ST AT FLAP
TOP SIDE , PKT INCLUDING FLAP (L´W) = (12.5´11) CM , PKT
POSITION (FOLLOW THE
SPEC) .
Objectives
• More systemic approach to Quality Management
• To improve Quality outputs
• Change from reactive to pro-active mindset
• Create a pro-Quality ethos in the business
• To protect the integrity of the WW Brand
• To support profitable growth by ensuring Customer confidence and satisfaction by reducing the Cost of Quality (COQ)
• Create more awareness on the continuous improvement of Quality
• Introduce more rigorous supplier management trough Quality and Safety fines, Quality meetings etc.
• Improve reliability of information and quality data
• More impact on 5.0 supplier strategy
• Maintin adherence to all relevant legislation, including Consumer Protection Act
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