The raw materials like fabric and lace is used in sewing room other than fabric are called fabric trim. Another way it can be said that trimmings materials are openly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called fabric trim. Must have no loose/ uncut threads left on the final product, neither on inside or outside, 3-5 mm is accepted
Fabric Trim for Children:
A small part is a component that fits entirely within the testing cylinder by its own weight, i.e. without forcing it. A small part includes, but is not limited to, buttons, press buttons, zipper pullers, buckles, sliders, 3D appliqués and other attached trims. All parts that possibly could become a small part must be tested, for instance all individual parts of a zipper. Flat components only made from textile are not considered small parts. If a textile component is 3D however, for example by having a knot or being stuffed with polyester filling, it will be considered a small part. Note that leather and PU is not considered textile. All small parts must be securely fastened, before and after normal use and abuse. They must withstand a 90 Newton pull force when the largest accessible dimension is greater than 6 mm or 70 Newton pull force when the largest accessible dimension is less than or equal to 6 mm.
Lace Trim:
Generally lace trim is designed for blouses, dresses, skirts etc.
Must not change colour and have readable text after wash or other treatments
Must if there is a risk for cross staining, discoloration or damage of the label, after wash or treatments, this should be prevented by either;
Must cover the label by plastic before treatment/ wash
Must attach the lace trim label in the product after the treatment/ wash
Must cotton neck label on Baby & Children garments must be sewn on with no possibility of label to unravel.
Fabric Trim – Zipper
Must be suitable for the product/ material/ treatment and wash
Must be in correct length/ type/ quality/ colour, according to the order specification
Must have a slider that is easy to pull up and down, and stays clear of seam
Must have auto lock or semi lock for bottoms
Must have plastic stoppers on cord fitted coil zippers
Must avoid fabric damage/ puckering when inserting zip
Must not use a concealed/ invisible/ hidden zipper on: tight fitted products, o stretch fabric on tight fitted products, o uneven layer or thick layer of fabric
Zipper
Zipper Requirements for Children
All zippers must meet the requirements of “H&M Quality Standards and Requirements (QS&R)”.
Puller attachments that are shaped, filled or made of any other material than a plain woven tape must withstand 90 N pull force test, and also fulfil the “resistance to twist of pull and slider” test. Totally flat zip pullers only made of fabric tape do not have to be tested.
All parts of the zipper must be checked for sharp edges and sharp points.
All parts attached to the zipper must never break or disassemble.
All garments with a metal zipper must have a zipper guard facing the body in order to prevent injury.
Styles with a zip fly must have a zipper guard firmly secured at the bottom.
This is valid for all types of zippers; metal, plastic and nylon.
Concealed (invisible) zipper is OK to use if a zipper guard is used.
If attached puller is totally flat, only made of fabric tape should be securely stitched and have a maximum length of 7,5 cm in total including the actual metal puller. Note – on the back of garment it is not allowed to have any extra attachments to zip pullers.
If using a ring puller the hole in the ring shall be under 5 mm or over 12 mm to be safe and avoid risk of entrapment.
Metal zipper not recommended, however each style to be risk assessed. For trousers with zip fly it could be OK.
A zipper “fold over” on the top of zipper is strongly recommended to avoid the neck of the child to be pinched.
All parts of the zipper must be tested to withstand 90 N pull force test.
Glued on 3D endings of zip pullers are not allowed as they cannot be secured.
Lace Trim – Elastic
Elasticised cuffs that are too tight can cause reduction in blood flow to hands or feet. The elastic must not be too tight or too strong and it is of particular concern in baby’s wear. Elastics must never be used as cords close to the face. Elastics which have direct body contact should be soft brushed. Exception for adjustable elastics inside trousers where this is not needed.
Must be suitable for the material/ product/ treatment and wash
Must have suitable elasticity
Must be in a quality that retains elasticity
Must be pre shrunk
Must be relaxed at least 24 hours prior to production
Must have heat cut edges when necessary
Shoulder pad/ sleeve head roller
Must be suitable for the product/ treatment and wash
Must be correctly positioned, according to instructions
Must have the correct size/ shape/ grading/ quality, according to instructions
Must be covered on unlined garment with e.g. shell fabric/ matching lining, if no other instruction has been given
Lace Trim – Collar
Must have the fusing attached to the correct side of collar depending on material/ style/instructions
Placket
Must be properly stitched,
Must be straight and even
Must cover under part
Dart
Must have correct shape
Must have correct length
Must have no puckering at dart point/ end
Must have 1.5 – 2 cm of threads left at dart point/ end when trimming the inside
Must be symmetrically placed, if no other instruction has been given
Fabric Trim – Hanger loop for Children
Hanger loops inside garments for the purpose of keeping the garment on the hanger, shall be as short as possible. Sizes 44-134: maximum 20 cm in circumference. Sizes 140-170: maximum 40 cm in circumference. Exception: Korea = maximum 7.5 cm in circumference (44-170)
Must be suitable for the fabric/ product/ treatment and wash
Must be correctly attached, according to the instructions
Must be colour fast
Fabric Trim –Buttons for Children
Buttons must be securely attached by machine lock stitch. Recommended to use poly/poly core spun yarn.
Buttons should not break causing sharp edges. Shell and mother of pearl is not allowed. When sing resin based plastic this must be evaluated carefully as this plastic could be very brittle and become sharp when broken.
2-hole buttons are better than 4-hole button because the middle part of a 4-hole button can become rather weak, depending on hole size. Exception for some thin fabrics where a 4-hole button grasp both warp and weft which makes attachment stronger, which could then be a reason for choosing a 4-hole rather than a 2-hole button.
Additional requirements for size 44 up to and including size 98
Buttons to be securely attached by machine lock stitch. Must withstand 90 Npull force test.
Shank buttons (loop buttons) are only allowed if they are machine stitched.
Multi component buttons are not recommended unless they can be ensured not to break and fall apart.
Duffle button/toggle button are not allowed due to its hazardous shape.
Buttons for Children
Button sewn on inside waistline, not showing on the outside.
When having a button at inside waistline, for adjustable elastics, the button has to be sewn through all layers of fabric, and fusing, otherwise the fabric might break and the button will come out at low pull force. Also the button could come through the fabric together with the button when doing the pull force test.
Button sewn on inside waistline, not showing on the outside
Press buttons, jean buttons, rivets, eyelets
Press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets must not have any sharp edges or sharp points.
The attaching machine as well as the press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets should be of a well-known brand. It is essential to consult the button suppliers for advice on both the appropriate choice of buttons and machinery for each individual order.
Press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets for counter samples must be attached with the same type of machine that will be used for production.
Upper and lower parts must be aligned for perfect matching when closed.
Even layer of fabric is very important to secure attachment of press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets.
No nipple rivets on back area of garments below waist as these can damage sofas, car seats, floors etc.
Press buttons, jean buttons
Additional requirements for size 44 up to and including size 98
All press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets must withstand 90 N pull force test. As a safer option consider using embroidered eyelets instead of metal eyelets.
Attaching buttons on top of fake buttonholes creates uneven layers, and is a high risk of buttons coming off.
Take special care when attaching eyelets on stretchy material. Use plastic washer or woven reinforcement.
Press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets must never break or disassemble.
It is NOT allowed to repress press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets or eyelets that are already produced and have failed the pull force test
Embellishments, Bows (Lace Tream)
All decorations must be firmly stitched, it is not enough only with adhesive /glue.
All decorations must be checked for sharp edges and sharp points.
Decorations must never break or disassemble.
Bows should be adequately finished to prevent the ends from unravelling. A knot is not acceptable.
The tail of fixed bows should not exceed 7,5 cm in length. The bow loop should not exceed 7,5 cm in circumference.
Placement of bow is critical as the tails are considered cords and could be an entrapment and strangulation hazard. Head, neck and upper chest area, as well as back area are especially critical. Bows with tails not allowed on hoods or at back of neck. Please refer to chapter 4 for restrictions.
Bigger bows for decorations are OK if stitched all the way around.
Embellishments, Bows
Additional requirements for size 44 up to and including size 98
3D textile components, for example by having a knot or being stuffed with filling, will be considered small parts, and need to withstand 90 N pull force test. Where bows or other decorations are attached, there must always be a woven reinforcement on the back of the fabric, to prevent the fabric from tearing or decoration to detach.
Pompoms and tassels
Below requirements concern size 44 up to and including size 98
Pompoms that fit into the small parts cylinder by its own weight, must withstand
90 N pull force test.
If pompom or tassel is made from loose yarn – then make sure there is no fibre shedding issues. Untwisted or slightly twisted yarns must not be used for sizes upto and including size 80.
Garment labels is a small pice of paper, plstic, or other material, for labeling garments for attachment to something to indicate its manufacturer, nature,ownership, destination, etc.
Get The Label Types:
There are different types of garment labels like white label, black label clothing is found in market. Get the label types given below with brief description –
Direct Thermal Labels
Thermal Transfer Labels
Direct Thermal Sticker Label:
Direct Thermal printers use a chemically treated material that blackens when the thermal print head applies heat to the surface of the material. This type of printer requires no ink, toner, or ribbon to apply print to the garment labels surface. Direct thermal printers cannot make color print to get the labels
Thermal Transfer Sticker Label
Thermal Transfer printers require a ribbon to apply print to the labels surface. A thermal print-head applies heat to the ribbon, which in turn melts ink on to the labels surface to create the printed image according to specified format. Generally ink is absorbed into the labels material. Thermal Transfer print a very high print quality and durability when compared to other types of printing methods. Another advantage to thermal transfer printers is the ability to print a logo, graphic or text in color using a higher-end printer is used for labelling
Example of Clothing Tags :
Clothing Tags
Barcode Labels Of Products That Do Not Have Size And Range Information:
In product groups that are manufactured without sizes (ties, headscarves, etc), 53*85 mm barcode labels which do not include size and fit information can be used.
Barcode Labels
The information to be included in barcode labels without sizes: Name of product, barcode, colour (with Tema colour code in Turkish and the foreign language), special code 1, line code, line name, equipment ID (wall – table – fixture – chino – jean), merch sub group, cash price, instalment price
White Discount Label And Red Discount Label:
Discount labels used for in-store price
arrangements by buyers are divided in two as White or Black Label clothing and Red Labels. These labels are printed as stickers with the help of printers in stores and / or PDA’s.
White or Black Label Clothing: This is the type of sticker used during non-sale periods (price arrangements within the season) by buyer (46 mm * 50 mm). Less than 25% discounts will be made using white labels where the discount rate is not shown in a red square.
Black and White Label Clothing
The information to be included in discount labels: The first instalment price (crossed out), the first cash price (crossed out), barcode, name of product, special code 1, colour (with Tema colour code), line code – line, discount rate, discounted cash price, discounted instalment prices
Garment Labels Procedure Department Wise :
The aim of this procedure is to standardise barcoded price labels which are used in products of LC Waikiki Magazacilik brands. This procedure covers all the products sold in domestic LC Waikiki Magazacilik stores. Marketing, Buying, Sourcing, IT, Purchasing, Labelling Compliance, Product Return Logistics, and Inspection Departments
Garment label
Marketing Department: Preparing the designs (on the sides where logos are) on the labels which should be attached to products.
Labelling Compliance Department: Evaluating requests received from other departments about garment labels and amending the procedure if necessary.
IT Department: Preparing the necessary software in order to print the information that should take place on the labels in the desired format.
Purchasing Department: Supplying garment labels for orders that are produced domestically in the sizes and with the visual quality determined through this procedure.
Buying and Sourcing Department: Informing Manufacturers that we work with about the label format whose standards have been determined for manufactured products and making sure that labels at desired standards are used.
Product Return Logistics Department: Monitoring department codes on garment labels and making the required changes if necessary.
Inspection Department: Checking whether the label format outlined in this procedure is used in all the products supplied from Far East and the domestic market. Informing the related departments about any noncompliance there may be.
A flat modern knitting machine is one type of weft knitting machine in which needles are arranged straightly in a flat plate called flat bed. In this knitting process various shaped or width fabric is produced by traveling of yarns alternately back to forth.[3]
Specifications of Flat Modern Knitting Machine:
Specifications of modern knitting mc is given here-
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category
Knitting
Machine Category
Flat Knitting Machine
Product Name
Automatic computerized flat modern knitting machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Knitting Style
Flat
Knitting Method
Single/Double
Computerized
Yes
Knitting width
44″ 52″
Gauge
3G 5G 7G 8G 9G 12G 13G 14G
Knitting System
Knitting system
Texture adjustment
Jacquard.
Selecting needles
8 section needle
Yarn feeder
6 yarn feeders
Knitting speed
1.2 meter/second
Driving Mode
AC motor
Density control
64 section
Needie displacement
1/4-8 needles
Protection syetem
automatically
Weight
360KG
Description
Mixed weaving can be made, such as loop formation, tucking, welt floatation, thread crossing etc.
[3]
Feature of Flat Knitting Machine:
Data input via USB Memory Interface
Pattern memory 64M bits
Bulit in controller, stored program for knitting machine
Monochrome LCD panel, Editing possible via display panel operation. Available in chinese and english
Power Supply for rsuming kitting after power failure
How to Knit with Flat Knitting Machines:
Sometimes referred to as Flatbeds / V beds due to the nature and arrangements of the knitting beds where two opposing needle beds are installed so that the upper ends form an inverted V. Generally needles slide up and down the beds in slots known as tricks and in this case the gauge refers to the number of needles per 1 inch.
Knitting Pattern
The carriage successfully raises and lowers the needles on both beds simultaneously as it passes over them based on the desired pattern.[1]
Computerized Flat Knitting Machine for Knitting Designs:
A computerized Flat Knitting Machine consists of horizontal rack, computer controller and knitting machine board in the system.
knitting designs
These machines are controlling by computer programs which is ideal for hand driven flat knitting machine. These machines are using for automatic knitting of sweaters, sleeves, trousers and many more. This machine made beautiful knitting designs [2].
Advantages of Knitting Machine Patterns:
This machine are computerized which are easy to use.
Stop Motion for Needle Breakage, Fabric Falling, Fabric Roll Over, Yarn Breakage, Knot, silver reed, knitting socks
The machine will automatically alarm for Needle Breakage, Fabric Falling, Fabric Roll Over, Yarn Breakage, Knot, Shock
May be single carriage with triple systems
Adjustable to different knitwear ,have various results of shaping, knitting designs, crochet patterns, free knitting patterns, easy knitting patterns and knitting machine patterns
USB facility
Each kind of operating parameter is shown and they can be adjust at any time when the machine is running, making conveniences for operations as much as possible[2]
[1] S.M. Bappy Rana, B.Sc in Textile Engineering, Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
[2]Engr. Kh. Mashiur Rahman, Garments Auto Machine Technologist, Web: www.autogarment.com, Email: [email protected], Cell: +88 017 92 52 53 54
[3] Obaidur Rahman, BSc in Textile Engineering Bangabandhu Textile Engineering College
Crockmeter is a scientific equipment used in textile mills, generally use for meter test and textile testing of the transference of color from the surface of one material to another by either wet or dry rubbing. This scientific equipment apply a certain pressure on the specimen and do the repeating rubbing testing after set times in a specified stroke after that compared the white rubbing clothing with the color fastness staining grey scales for accessing the decoration grade to provide the underlie for improving textile dyeing. It is category of Laboratory Equipments
Function of Crock Meter for Meter Test:
For determining the colour fastness of textiles in textile mills for wet rubbing which ensure accurate meter test and this test equipment is a laboratory instrument used in textile factories
Specifications of Crock Meter which is used as Laboratory Equipment:
[label type=”label” title=”Specification Name”]
[label type=”label” title=”Specification Value”]
Product Category
Meter
Machine Category
Crockmeter
Product Name
Testing Machine( dyeing and printing)
Product Model
Manufacturer of laboratory equipments
Product Class
New
Origin
Europe/China/Others
Brand/Manufacturer
Made in China
Agent In Bangladesh
Yes
Power
AC 220V 3A
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
1 pcs/time
Testing Speed
60r/min
Dimension of Rubbing Head
16mm
Reciprocate Stroke
Straight line 104mm
Dimension(WxDxH)
28x61x30cm
Weight
18KG
Wide Cap Frame
75 x 360
Semi Wide Cap Frame
83 x 180
Tubular Frame
550 x 595
Description
Used for Crockmeter /Color Fastness to Rubbing Testing Machine, Use to do the colour fastness testing by this laboratory equipment
Features of Crock Meter working as Test Equipment:
Crockmeter is a laboratory equipment which has a counter,
Excellent Service in textile mills / textile factories
Crockmeter is a scientific equipment which has an operating handle,
Manually changeable the voltage,
Provided crocking finger by this test equipment
The professionals ensure measurement with this test equipment.
Crocking Test:
This test verifies the color bleeding property of garment. The instrument called CROCK METER. This process done in two types: (1) DRY CROCKING (2) WET CROCKING. Acceptable standard varies from buyer to buyer but best standard is
Crocking Procedure:
For dry process, place the swatch of testing material under plate of crock meter. With crock meter cloth, 10 cycle of rubbing will be done on testing material. Shade effect will come on crock meter cloth, then measure it with gray scale and allocate the rating. In wet process, everything remains same except that crock meter cloth is wet with one drop of distil water.
Working Procedure of Crock Meter for Textile testing:
The crockmeter is a scientific equipment made for textile factories to rigid flat metal where the test specimen can held firmly. As a result abrading finger rubs against it.
Crock Meter
Generally the platform is fixed on the base of the scientific equipment which lies in a horizontal plane and it abrading fabric picks up color is lost when the test specimen during rubbing. The arm is moved by a manually operated crank and connecting line
[1] Obaidur Rahman, BSc in Textile Engineering, Bangabandhu Textile Engineering College
The word polymer has come from two Greek work “poly” and “mer”. Poly means many or more & mer means parts/units. So we can say that polymer is a large molecule build up by the repetition of small & simple chemical unit called polymer. Example of polymer science and engineering are plastic, co-hasive fiber, vernisher, elastomer etc.
Acrylic Monomer :
The small and simple chemicals from which are build up is known as monomer. Acrylic monomer is the same or nearly same of the repetition units of polymer. Ethylene is the monomer of polyethylene. n CH2=CH2→ [-CH2-CH2-] monomer poly-ethelene(polymer)
Repeating Unit:
The small & simple chemical unit are repeated again & again during polymer formation.
nCH2=CH2→ [-CH2-CH2-]
Urethane Acrylate Oligomer :
The polymer those degrees of polymerization and molecular weight are up to 10 and 7 respectively is known an urethane acrylate oligomer .
[1] Imran Hossain, B. Sc. in Textile Engineering, Bangabandhu Textile Engineering College, Bangladesh
