To ensure that Non Conformance fabrics, accessories, packaging material and sleeping bags are promptly controlled and reviewed by authorized person and to ensure appropriate disposition of the non-conformity.
The purpose of this procedure is to ensure any non-conforming products are either repaired or taken out of the manufacturing process as to ensure they do not reach the customer..
All non-conforming fabrics, accessories, packaging material, in-process products and sleeping bags. Disposition of Non-conformity: Action to be taken to deal with an existing non-conforming entity in order to resolve the non-conformity.
PROCEDURE:
The Production Supervisor is responsible for ensuring that the reason the non-conformity has appeared is corrected before any further products are manufactured and that previous products from the operation do not contain the non-conformity.
Identification and segregation of non-conforming materials and products
Any non-conformities found in the manufacturing process by an operator is clearly marked by a coloured sticker. Taking action to eliminate the detected non-conformity
Authorizing the use, release or acceptance by a relevant authority or by the customer. All repairs are handed back to the Production Supervisor who checks that the repair is adequate to conform to specified standards.
Taking action to preclude its intended use or application
Pre-identified non-conformities that reach the end of the line are placed into the non-conforming container where they are checked through by the designated auditor and sent back for repair. Maintaining record.
Implementation
All in-coming fabrics, accessories, packaging materials and sleeping bags will be nspected as per applicable guideline.
Segregate and store the in-coming materials which do not meet the established specifications with YELLOW marked board identifying their non-conforming status.
Generate Non-conforming Material/Product and submit to the General Manager.
Record the in-process cutting non-conformance in the Parts Inspection Report ecord the in-process non-conforming products identified during the checking in he Sewing
Record the finished non-conforming products in the Finished Goods Inspection The non-conforming products will go for rework and record shall be maintained in the Defect Repair Re
After finished the re-working process the re-work quantity and type of defects are recorded in the Finishing Inspection Report
If a lot of products are found non-conforming at the final inspection the lot will be re-inspected and record shall be maintained in Non-conforming Material/Product Report (F-
If a non-conformance is found during the out of sewing or shipment audit it is sent back for repair if it cannot be repaired it is rejected. If the out of sewing batch fails the whole batch is rescreened and any non-conforming products taken out Factory profile
Industrial fan must clean and maintained with checklist. …
In front of inspection table to be kept with Ok box, Reject box, and alter box.
All toilets must clean with check list.
All electrical channel / DB board must clean and covered.
Packing room and finished cartoon room must restrict and all workers must have identification.
Finished cartoon should be on pallets in finished cartoon room
The suppliers’ performances were not reviewed at least annually for the Lap Dip Delivery & Approval performance and testing performance data.
There was not clearly marked and dedicated quarantine area for the material storing before inspection and testing.
No in-house colour fastness testing and records were made for the fabrics in receiving checking.
The light box was not calibrated. Second, it was placed in the 2nd floor and not easy for the IQC to conduct colour validation. 3rd, the client approved colour standards were not provided onsite when the IQC checking the fabrics.
There was not a clearly marked quarantine area to holding the trims waiting inspection and testing in receiving.
The trim inspection rate was only defined for AQL system and they did not require the inspector to check at least one sample from every box, roll or bag for the quality checking. And also no requirements to require have 10 samples from each box, roll or bag for the quality checking if the multiple trims packed together.
Some of the cutting blades were not stored in secure area when not using. Second, no records were made for the blades’ replacement.
Some packaged goods were placed very close to the wall and they were placed on the floor directly. There were some tables in the packing & finished goods storing warehouse and the tables was dirty while some un-packaged products were placing on the tables.
The factory formally used AQL 1.0 for all defects inspection in Pre-Shipment sampling checking. But, the Tesco requirements were AQL0, 1.5 and 4.0 for Critical, Major and Minor respectively.
The ‘Seconds’ finished goods were not clearly & individually identified with fault category or reason. No regularly analysis of the amount and type of ‘Seconds’ was made.
The pins and staples were not restricted in the production floors. Some of them were found in the metal free zone and packing areas.
No KPI for shipment and customer satisfaction were measured and monitored by managements for continuous improvement.
The Emergency Product Withdrawal procedure did not have clear procedure to handle. How to report to Tesco and How to fully identify and recall all of the products affected, including in production, warehouse and shipped out.
Factory to define incident and key personnel to understand what incident means. Relevant corrective action procedure to be established and used.
No technical training records were kept.
Internal audit policy & procedure was not available in the factory.
Suitable pest prevention. Records to be available to proof prevention taken.
Calibration procedure for testing/measuring tools to be established and documented. All relevant est & measuring equipment (incl. testing gram weight) to be calibrated & uptodate and readily accessible incl. tension tester, measuring tapes etc. Records must be available to document calibration and calibrated equipment must be labelled with date of calibration and result as well as next date of calibration.
Any on site lab equipment to be calibrated including washing machine and light box and records to be available for review.
All calibrated equipment to be labelled and to have calibration logo and valid calibration certificate.
Written environmental policy to be established.
Insufficient formal procedure to ensure management of environmental matters like reducing wastage use of energy, recycling of wastage material etc.
Record working hours accurately and ensure wages and working hours comply with law. Factory to understand issues with subcontractors and ensure workers are not exploited. Contracts to include hours of work and rest breaks.
Payroll is not showing OT separately nor does working hour records.
The factory didn’t establish social accountability system for their subcontractors.
Water cups found on workstations.
Factory to provide ear plugs in areas of loud noise.
Jute room need clean and segregated by material.
Spot removing room equipped with PPE (Musk, eye guard, globs)
When a Quality Auditor finds non-conformity the traffic light procedure comes into effect. Metal/ Needle detector report with calibration record.
Managing Director shall review the in-coming non-conforming materials and give disposition decision. If required, situation of non-conformity of in-coming materials will be discussed with buyer or buyer representative and disposition will be taken as per buyer/buyer representative decision. Production Manager shall review cutting non-conformity and give disposition decision. Review and disposition of finish products will do as per management decision. Action In-coming non-conforming materials will disposed as per decision of the Managing Director or buyer/buyer representative as directed in Non-conforming Material/Product Disposition of in-process sleeping bags will be re-worked.
Disposition shall be recorded in appropriate form. If any non-conformity is identified after shipment of the sleeping bags, Managing Director shall notify to buyer immediate via e-mail, fax or telephone. erform disposition of the product as per buyer’s decision. rrange an investigation to find out impact and take further action as per Quality System Procedure for
Conclusion
Any non-conformances found in packing are
placed into the non-conformances Bin that is collected at various times
throughout the day and taken to the recovery area. If the garment cannot be
repaired to customer specification, it is de-tabbed and processed for outside
disposal.
No Industrial Engineer and department/effective production Industrial Engineering and Management department for operation breakdown, machinery layout, efficiency monitoring, cost reduction, research and development.
Factory should monitor and record daily production output, absentee rate , fabrication rate, efficiency rate, order size, man hour etc.
Quality
body parts found up/down
armhole joint & side panel up/down
Any emergency exits to be doors and not windows.
Production
No Industrial Engineering and Management team established to monitor operation breakdown, GSD/SAH, machinery layout, efficiency monitoring, cost reduction, research and development for each section.
No procedure in place for new workers in regards to orientation, training room, instructor and proper selection.
No process to use GSD/SAH/ratio/absentee rate/fabrication/efficiency rate/machine layout/order size/styling/man-hour etc. to plan and set an incentive bonus.
Not all department heads present in pre-production meeting incl. maintenance and merchandising. No name and designation recorded on relevant documents of department heads/managers. No records of external (with customer) pre-production meetings. Pre-production meeting records found inconsistent with production record. Maintenance and washing department are not taking part in pre-production meeting.
Any subcontractors to be included in the pre-production meeting and factory representative should be in subcontract factory on a daily basis during time of production. All visits/inspections to be recorded.
Pilot runs not conducted for all orders, not recorded adequately and no pilot run review record found. Bulk accessories not used for trial.
Customer approval comments and trim cards (incl. sewing thread, main labels etc.) are not displayed together with the sample that is on the production floor. Comments not translated into local language. Displayed sample inconsistent to running production.
No review documents available with approval sample of the first pieces of the production line and missing records of relevant personnel involved in the review. Relevant samples of first off line pieces not available. Report to be kept in production file and on samples.
Lines not well balanced or line balancing could not be verified due to insufficient work on the production floor.
Needle procedure not effective as worker has a spare needle, broken and spare needle found in machine drawer and broken needle found in the box of the maintenance room. No procedure with timeframe to replace the needle on use. Broken needle control not established in sample room.
No documented procedure to check the needle points on daily basis.
Broken needle parts not aligned in the log.
Poor and not well organised housekeeping on the production floor, e.g. sewing threads, interlining are dirty, sewing parts on cartons/floors.
Conclusion
Industrial Engineering and Management – Sharp tools not permanently attached to workstation. Inadequate lighting in production process. Required lighting
Pressing Machine servicing records not done weekly or at least monthly (e.g. winding, washing, pressing machines). Spare and broken needle found in machine drawers.
Accessories should be on shelves with hang tag Indicating style no, buyer name, color, lot no etc.
Cutting tables without broken and sharp edges.
Sewing machine tables without broken and sharp edges.
All cutter and scissors tied with machines with user name.
All machine oil must changes periodically and cleans.
Machine maintenance card must update.
No pressing standard or approval/reference sample available on site. To be displayed for every style/order with signature.
Pressing cloths, stands and patterns dirty & damaged. Steam iron found without iron stand.
Inside foam found deformed.
Pressing operators are not well trained about their equipment handling. Some pressing and pressing tables found with moisture due to excessive steam.
No AQL maintained for inspections. Measurement checks not recorded. No piece to piece measurement audit done after pressing. No measurement audit done during pressing. 100% measurement checks on critical areas (chest, back length, sleeve length & neck circumference) not done, regardless of whether the order is washed or non-washed.
Random inspection to be done hourly rather than e.g. 3 times per day.
Lots are not clearly marked for hourly inspection and after inspection there should be passed to packing section if inspection has passed.
Inadequate lighting found in pressing section. Required lighting is 60-80 FC. Inadequate ventilation found.
Actual handling of pressed garments was not verifiable as there was no work.
There was no control system established to control the ‘pins’ used for striped fabrics matching, such as daily release and call back, etc.
The end of line inspector also made re-pressing for not well pressed products during their inspection. Based on site observation, the surface of the inspection tables were dirty and not quite white.
The pressing tables were not installed with vacuum system. Some of the pressing table cloths were dirty.
No written standard available as a guideline to pressing operators
Measurement audit is done randomly after pressing but not during pressing
Sample of packaged garment with trim card not displayed in packing area
Complete packed cartons kept on finishing floor rather than in finished goods store
Sharp tools maintain strictly with log book.
Iron/ pressing table must clean and with vacuum.
Garment should be on pallets / Tray.
Sufficient lighting in all section. (Inspection/ Sewing/ Finishing/Others)
The fusing machine has always been a bit of a problem because there are many different types of fusing. The fusing cannot be too thin, as the bone in collar will be visible especially on white materials. The rolling space should not measure more than a few Millimeters
Factories do use different bias tolerances for skin, patch and collar band. In Bangladesh, Peter Kwong and Mr Turan made some experiments with the following bias tolerances as follows: skin 35% patch 23% band 9%. The sample collars from Bangladesh look good. We, in Brussels, received many different collars from Different factories like: China factory, Gin-Win, Bangladesh factories
Weekly production planning status report of Fusing Machine
Fabric inspection report
No fusing, pressing, button stitch/buttonhole, snap button attach machine, bartack and body form available in the sample room.
Hard pattern, knitting chart, board pattern for pressing without pattern maker/checker’s name, signature, seal & date. Customer and order number to be mentioned as well.
Garment & sweater panel wash test records and reference sample found inconsistent with production records.
Daily production report
Trims/ Accessories inspection report.
Inventory record for fabrics & accessories.
Cutting inspection report spreading market, 100% cut panel etc.
Fusing check report and the log book of calibration
Fabrics, accessories, trims and components in sample room are not kept on shelves or racks or pallets with cover. Storage of samples, trims & accessories is not appropriate and not tidy. Poor housekeeping.
Insufficient lighting found in sample room. Should
Calibration records for each fusing machine missing and date of calibration and expiry date not mentioned on machine.
Air conditioning non purified water kept in the fusing room & the water is dropping down into into a bucket near where fused parts are kept
Production file to should contain the following: all kinds of test reports, approved trim card, sample comments, make sheet, spec, pre-production meeting record, trial cut record, first output comments etc.
Fabric needs to be sent to interlining supplier to obtain data sheet (temperature/pressure/timing) on fusing conditions during sampling stage.
Inline/ End line inspection report
Daily measurement report
Final inspection (Final audit, Pre final ) report
Third party audit report for last year
Snap pull test record
Fabric relaxation record-Knits (with date & time)
All measuring must be calibrated.
Other Issue
Horizontal Splits .
Horizontal Splits .
Sample Machines .
Sample Machines .
Sample Machines .
Dryers/Extractors
Dryers .
Dryers .
Extractors .
Extractors: .
Boilers
Boiler 750 ton/each
Type of boiler fuel
Types of Machines
Washers
Open Pockets .
Open Pockets .
Open Pockets .
Horizontal Splits .
Horizontal Splits .
Horizontal Splits .
Sample Machines .
Sample Machines .
Sample Machines .
Dryers/Extractors
Dryers .
Dryers .
Extractors .
Extractors: .
Boilers
Boiler 750 ton/each
Type of boiler fuel
Types
Wet Processing
Cellulose enzyme wash
Stone wash
Desize rinse
Garment dyeing (direct/reactive dye)
Dip dye
Sandblasting
Number of blasting nuzzles
Blasting Materials
Aluminum oxide
Garnet
Hand brushing
Tonello/hand brushing machine
Machines for shirt/jacket brush
Machines for paint brush
Specialty finishes
Rubber ball wash
Tinting (direct/reactive dyestuffs)
Pattern dyeing/blasting
Coating
Types of Fusing
Thickness
of fusing:
We
would like to advise the thickness
grams per M2 of the fusing as shown in list below. The list will help all
parties Brussels buying, Mondial and the factories.
The
list:
The list below: Fusing thickness has been selected and put together for shirts made in regular poplin material 40’s 50’s yarn . Please do use one step thinner fusing machine when the thickness of the material is thicker than poplin Like (dobby weave/oxford). I would say one step
thinner on thicker material as follows: If
the fusing on poplin is 3630 use 3620
this would then be for the 1st and 2nd layer and collar
band too.
Cuff
fusing:
We can always use the same fusing like 1st
layer of the collar
Placket
fusing:
This fusing can be on a roll, the fashion
is not thick and stiff plackets. The
placket needs to be soft and smooth.
Starting
point:
The list bellow is an attempt to start
putting some information together and can be changed at all times for better
results
Name
Bone yes/no
-X-piece yes/no
1st layer grams-m2
2nd layer grams-m2
Collar bandGrams-m2
Cuff grams-m2
Shark wide spread
Inside
No
w3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Kent wide spread
Inside
yes
w3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or w3640/170gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Button down
no
yes
w3610/85gr
w3620/108gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Alfie
yes
yes
w3620/108gr
w3630/146gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Cosmo
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Dean (soft collar thick stitching)
no
yes
w3610/85gr
w3620/108gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Executive –1mm
remov
yes
3620/108gr
3630/146
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Executive –5mm
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Wing
(special collar)
no
no
3610/80gr
3010/80
none
Zaza
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Button down small
no
yes
3610/80gr
109
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Rafca
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Button down casual
no
yes
3610/80gr
w3620/108gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Gyorgy -B-D
no
yes
3610/80gr
w3620/108gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Kent-2
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165
or 3640/170
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Cut away
inside
no
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Double button
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Emilio
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
New Alfie
inside
yes
3620/108gr
3630/146gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Double button cut away
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Pharell -B-D
no
yes
3010/80gr
3620/108gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
H-B Long tip
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Cut away top store
inside
No
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Kent Westbury
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Kent Canda
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Vario
(special collar)
inside
none
3040r
No
band
3040r
Kent 9138
inside
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Button under
no
w3620/108gr
145
?
Same as 1st
layer collar
Cut away Westbury
inside
No
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Emilio
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Kent Italy
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Mac coy
inside
No
X piece
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Helmut
inside
No
X piece
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Christian
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Hans
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Kent-1
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Vincent triple button
no
yes
3010/80gr
w3620/108gr
3630/146gr
Celio
inside
w3620/108gr
3630/146gr
3630/146gr
Kent 1055
inside
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
New H-B
inside
No
X piece
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Collar 1895
no
No
X piece
w3610/85gr
w3620/108gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Doc- Holiday
no
No
X piece
w3610/85gr
w3620/108gr
w3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Father
no
No
piece
3010/80gr
w3620/108gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Gable
yes
yes
3630/146gr
Fiyi/165gr
or 3640/170gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Raf
no
No
piece
3010/80gr
w3620/108gr
3630/146gr
Same as 1st
layer collar
Double Sherlock
3010/80gr
3010/80gr
3630/146gr
w3620/108gr
Conclusion
Fusing Machine -The function of the placket fusing is only to reinforce the buttonhole and help the stitching of the placket edge.
Samples of packaged/folded garments & trim cards are not displayed in the packing area. Must also be displayed in the finishing area. Reference sample displayed not similar to running order. Displayed standard without signature.
No random check during finishing, no 100% check after finishing. Presentation needs to be checked 100%.
All packaging accessories (hangtag, kimbal, size sticker etc) to be checked 100% prior to packing in carton.
No thread sucking machine available. SEwing Thread and removal must be sufficient.
Properly set-up spot cleaning room not available for each finishing section to include compressed air gun, vacuum, spot lifter, mask, gloves, tap with running water and exhaust fan.
Bottleneck in production areas, i.e. areas not well balanced and organised. Workflow could not be verified as not sufficient work available.
Inadequate lighting in finishing section. Required lighting should be 60-80 FC.
No initial random inspection during packing. No pre-final AQL inspection based on customer’s AQL.
Factory does not have pull test equipment on site.
Metal detection machine found unable to detect test card during on site calibration.
Other Compliance Issue
During the factory visit it was noted that –
Fire hose box responsible person list was not posted.
Fire Hose box sign was not posted.
Emergency light sign was not posted.
Combustible Material (Wooden Box) found under and near the machines.
Floor Evacuation Plan was not posted on every Exit.
Aisles Arrow marking was missing.
Rubber mat missing under all SDB & MDB.
Fire Alarm Switch & alarm sign not posted.
ire extinguisher user instruction was not posted every area.
Fire hose boxes/Cabinet user instruction was not posted.
Fire hose box locked by key & keys were not keeping with the hose boxes.
Fire hose box responsible person list was not posted.
Fire Hose box sign was not posted.
Emergency light sign was not posted.
Emergency Staircases Secondary handrail was not installed.
Staircases Identification (Name of floor and staircase number).
P A System was not installed.
Fire hose boxes/Cabinet user instruction was not posted.
Fire hose box locked by key & keys were not keeping with the hose boxes.
System was not installed.
During the factory visit it was noted that –
Toilet sign was not posted.
Toilet (Number of toilet) layout was not posted.
Drinking water test report was not posted.
Drinking water sign was not posted.
Floor waste keeping area sign was not posted.
No smoking sign was not posted.
Notice board was not found.
First aid Box was not found.
Floor wise First aider, Fire fighter & Rescue team list was not posted.
PPE Use sign was not posted.
rtificial Respiration instruction was not posted.
Chemical Handling was not maintained properly.
int built up in ceiling at woven label section.
AC Control Room sign was not posted.
Stair -1 Block by electrical Item.
Rubber mat missing under all SDB & MDB.
Floor Evacuation Plan was not posted on every Exit ( Near Staircases)
Aisles arrow marking was missing.
Fire Alarm Switch & alarm sign not posted
Fire extinguisher user instruction was not posted every Point.