J-SCRAY: This stage is very first stage which the fabric is completely opened up i.e. prepared for the further finishing process with the help `of roller & j-scary.
MERCERIZATION BATH: Fabric is mercerized in the caustic solution with (150-200) gpl concentration. Mercerization enhances the lustrous and smoothening effect of the fabric.
SKEW ROLLER: The skew roller helps to stretched the fabric width wise so that the fabric can easily clipped by clip holder. These clips stretched the fabric to avoid shrinkage.
HOT WASH: In the hot wash process, caustic solution is removed .fabric passed through different bath to completely remove the caustic solution.
NEUTRALIATION BATH: Green acid is used to neutralize the fabric .The caustic solution treated fabric is passed through the green acid to neutralize the fabric .If the fabric s not neutralize then it cause harmful effects to the human body.
DRYING: A drying range of ten dry cans is meant for drying fabric .this is wetted at padder .Moisture meter is attaching to the fabric to monitor the amount of moisture in the fabric.
There are various processes are done in the soaper machine.
Mercerization process:
Caustic sol – 150gpl
Decol – 1 gpl
QWNI – 4 gpl
Finishing Machines and Process
The speed off finishing range is kept around 40-42mpm and 6 workers operators are employed for this range.
Four types of machines are being used in the finishing process:
Finishing
Mercerization machine
Soaper machine
Stenter machine
FINISHING MACHINE (Shrinkage control)
PROCESS SEQUENCE:-
Cradle lift off & j- scray
↓
Brushing
↓
Singing
↓
Padder
↓
Skew stretch unit
↓
Drying
↓
Dancer roll
↓
Sanforising
↓
Palmer
↓
Cooling roller
CRADLELIFT OFF & J-SCRAY
This stage is very first stage which the fabric is completely opened up i.e., prepared for the further finishing process with the help of roller and j-scary.
BRUSHING: After opening the fabric is set to brushing unit .4 brush rollers are present which rolls against the fabric to facilitate the removal of fly present on the fabric.
SINGING: It is done to burn the protruding fibres from surface of the fabric .it gives the fabric smooth & increase the lustier of the fabric .Gas singing is used in this unit .Gas used is LPG.
PADDER
In this unit usually are used to increases the feel ,to increase the softness and improve the stitchablity of the fabric during garments preparation.
SKEW STRECH UNIT: The twill denim fabric (3/1,2/1). When wasted, due to fabric shrinkage ,the desired twill shifted i.e. right hand twill shifted towards, more right hand and left hand twill towards more left hands. Changing the appearance of fabric differently particularly of the stitched portion. In order to avoid this machine skew applied to fabric.
For R.H twill fabric: left hand skew given
For L.H twill fabric: right hand skew given
For 1/1: no skew
DRYING
There drying range each of ten dry cans is meant for drying fabric. This is wetted at padder .If not properly dried during sanforising & palmer crease will generate .
DANCER ROLLS:There are meant to control weft shrinkage or fabric width.
SANFORIZING: Here temporary warp shrinkage applied to the fabric by means of heat & water.
PALMER: Here the temporary shrinkage applied its sanforising get permanent
COOLING UNIT: Too cool down the fabric coming out the palmer.
The objective of this report is to visit different departments, to learn about their organogram, activities, process flow and so on. After the study I have gathered a brief knowledge about them, which will help me in future to decision making and to do my job properly. There are 6 departments here. They are:
Central store
Fabric store
Cutiing section
Sewing section
Finshing section
R & D department
Central store
Different types of labels are mentioned below:
Care label
Main label
RN label
Bar code label
Country label
Flag label, etc
Categories of label are mentioned below:
Woven label
Shertin label
Paper label, etc
Different types of buttons are mentioned below:
Snap button
Plastic button
Pearl button
Metal button
Pig nose button
Chalk button , etc
Sewing threads are mentioned below:
100% cotton
Filament thread, etc
Needle sizes are mentioned below:
DB- 7
DB-8
DB-9
DB- 10
DB—11
DC- 7
DC- 8
DC- 9
DC- 10
DC-11
DP- 5.9
DP- 5.10
DP- 5.11
DP * 17* 11
DP * 17* 14
VY- 8
VY- 9
VY- 10
VY- 11
Accessories of central store are:
Trim card
Hanger
Button
Shartin Tape
Mobilon tape
Sewing thread
Poly
Gum tape
Scotch tape
Security tape
P belt
Sewing machine troubleshooting:
To check label color-wise and on the basis of order quantity.
Conclusion: The necessary things of 6 departments of the factory are mentioned above. From which one can gain a brief knowledge about them.
Details about process and joining inlay with using needle and possible defects and solution:
Collar joint:
Body inlay
Collar inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
7 MM
7MM
11, 14 –DP/DB
PLAIN MACHINE
Front joint:
Back yoke inlay
Front (upper, lower) inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
9MM
11 – DB / DP
1/32 Top stc- P/ MACHINE
O/L WIDTH /9MM
O/L WIDTH
11 -DC
Over lock
SLV joint:
Body inlay
Slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
6MM
18-19 MM
14
1 cm French seam
9MM
9MM
14 -DC
Over lock
1 CM
1 CM
14 -TV
Feed of the arm
SLV Rolling
slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9 MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
5 MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
WELTED – ¼ / 5MM
SLV seam
Slv seam inlay (both end)
Used needle
Stitching style
O/L WIDTH
14 – DC
OVER LOCK
1 CM
14 – TV
FEED OF THE ARM
GENBOL
slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Cuff joint:
slv inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
LOWER
Lower Rolling
Used needle
Stitching style
9MM
11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Front placket:
Front placket inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
1/14 welted – 7-8 MM
14- UO
KANSAI
Side seam:
Back part
Front (up / low)
Used needle
Stitching style
1 CM
1 CM
14 – TV
Feed of the
9 MM
9 MM
14 – DC
Over lock
Slv placket:
slv inlay
Slv placket inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
9 MM
9 MM
9 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Pocket:
Pocket inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
8 MM
9, 11 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Btm Hem
Btm Hem inlay
Used needle
Stitching style
1.5 CM
14 – DB / DP
PLAIN MACHINE
Back yoke joint
Back part
Yoke (top / inside)
Used needle
Stitching style
9 MM
9 MM
14 – DB / DP
Over lock
NOTE: – DP & DB needle are used for same purpose but btm of DP needle is thick and that’s why according to machine needle adjustment DP is used thick hole of needle setting machine.
Information about bobbin and guide used at sewing machine
Guide
Guide is used according to stc at Gmts.
¼, 1/8, 3/8, 1/16, 1/32 etc and plain guide.
Some time for sewing according to measurement some fid is used at machine.
For lower rolling this is seen and some other if need.
Bobbin
Bobbin is used at machine at inside for lock the top side stc with its strength.
It is used according to machine. Information is given below
Except these mentioned machine bobbin is used for all machine
For check fabric vertical checks are called warp & horizontal checks are called weft.
A zipper has four parts:
Runner
Chain
Fabric (cotton / polyester)
Stopper
Note: fabric use in zipper almost of polyester because of its longer lasting.
Information about front placket
There are three kinds of front placket:
Welted kansai
Frence seam double fold
Hidden placket.
Information about thread for per inch
Conclusion
If S.P.I is 11 then it is calculated that for one inch we need 2.5 inch thread. Tread spin count classification: Two types of spin count: s spin count and z spin count. Sewing machine troubleshooting is important factor for any garments
