Crease Recovery Tester

Crease recovery tester is used to assess the amount of recovery of fabric from  creasing the result is generally expressed as the crease recovery angle. Made of heavy caste base with all parts of main steel   Imported Acrylic Sheet used to make the Rotate Dial. To make the movement smooth the Dial moves in a fabric brass bush.  The same base has both the stainless Steel Creasing Load and two Round Steel Plates for pressing the specimen. s ize of the Test Specimen: 40mm x 15mm.   Creasing Load: 1 Kg. (Stainless Steel)   Angle Measurement: On an Engraved Circular Scale graduated in 1 deg.  Scale Measurement: 0-180 Degrees . Weight: 9 Kg

Crease Recovery Tester Specification

  • Machine name: Crease recovery tester.
  • Machine origin: England
  • Brand name: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd
  • Machine name: Fabric stiffness tester.

Durability of printed fabrics

Scope:This in house test method describes the method of test in order to determine the long term durability and appearance of printed fabrics in respect of colour/appearance retention.

Principle: The correct number of test specimens are to be prepared and tested as specified within this test method in order to achieve a performance assessment of the product/fabric as described within the scope.

Equipment: Wascator washing machine fom71.mp-lab.

Polyester make-weights.

Drying racks

Preparation of test specimens/materials

  • fabric – ensure that all colours within the print are represented within the specimen chosen.
  • all raw edges must be overlocked to prevent fraying prior to testing.
  • reference sample – an example containing all colours must be retained as a reference point for grading.

Test procedure

  • weigh the test specimen and make up to 2kg wash load using make-weights for printed fabrics.
  • select wascator programme at the temperature indicated for the test (either by written instruction or as per the care label).
  • place the load in the machine.
  • add 25gm persil heavy duty powder.
  • switch on machine.
  • Assessment/results of tested specimens
  • examine the specimens whilst still damp and note any significant changes in appearance.
  • place the specimens on drying racks and allow to dry.
  • Reporting of results
  • Assess any appearance change (see ihtm 007) and shade change of the printed areas when dry and record as required by the performance requirements.

Some Test Methods

  • Fibre Identification
  • Fibre Composition
  • Tensile Strength
  • Tear Strength
  • Seam Slippage
  • Seam Strength
  • Bursting Strength
  • Abrasion Resistance
  • Pilling Resistance
  • Snagging Resistance
  • Crease Recovery
  • Dimensional Stability to Washing
  • Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning
  • WIRA Free Steam
  • Resistance to Corrosion of Metal Parts
  • Spirality
  • Water Repellency (Bundesmann)
  • Hydrostatic Head
  • Colour Fastness
  • Print/Flock Durability
  • Accelerator Pile Loss

GENERAL NOTES

  1. Units are metric or SI throughout.
  2. Warp and Weft, denote the length and width of a woven fabric.
  3. Wales and Courses denote the length and width of a knitted fabric.
  4. The area adjacent to the selvedges should be avoided as being not representative of

the fabric.

  1. The normal conditions for testing textiles are, 20oC +/-2oC and 65% +/-4% RH.
  1. Excessive handling of specimens should be avoided.
  2. Where production seams are available, these should be tested in addition to laboratory

seams.

  1. This performance standard indicates commercial dry cleaning, i.e. solvent plus water and

detergent.

  1. The effect of IEC detergent on white and pale coloured cellulose fabrics should be reported.
  2. Abbreviations: –           cc.                    Colour Change

–           s.                      Staining

–           BWS.              Blue Wool Standards

  1. Compliance with this specification does not confer immunity from prosecution but may

help to demonstrate ‘due diligence’.

 The classification “Corporate Wear” can include career wear and uniforms, the

following specifications are intended as a guide only and care must be taken when very

specific end uses and specialist properties are required.

 Attention is drawn to European Legislation and CE marking requirements for

Protective Clothing.

 SHIRTS/BLOUSES

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Tensile Strength                                                                                              180 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Tear Strength                                                                                                  1000 cN (Warp/Weft)
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            400 kPa
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)                                                                       100 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                120 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Abrasion Resistance                                                                                       25,000 revs
Colour Change at 5,000 revs                                                                          Grade 4
Colour Change at 10,000 revs                                                                        Grade 4
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 2,000 revs                                                                                              Grade 4
 
Resistance to Snagging
After 600 revs                                                                                                 Grade 3-4
 
Crease Recovery Angle
Face to Face                                                                                                    120o (Warp/Weft)
Back to Back                                                                                                   120o (Warp/Weft)
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
WIRA Free Steam (after minimum 4 hours relaxation)                                 +/-2% (Length/Width)
 

 SHIRTS/BLOUSES (Cont’d)

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4   s. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4   s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Durability Wash (15 minutes)                                                                        cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

DRESS/SKIRTS

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Tensile Strength                                                                                              200 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Tear Strength                                                                                                  1600 cN (Warp/Weft)
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            400 kPa
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)
Fitted Garment                                                                                                120 N (Warp/Weft)
Loose Garment                                                                                               100 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                160 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Abrasion Resistance                                                                                       25,000 revs
Colour Change at 5,000 revs                                                                          Grade 4
Colour Change at 10,000 revs                                                                        Grade 3-4
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 18,000 revs                                                                                            Grade 4
After 36,000 revs                                                                                            Grade 4
 
Resistance to Snagging
After 600 revs                                                                                                 Grade 3-4
 
Crease Recovery Angle
Face to Face                                                                                                    110o (Warp/Weft)
Back to Back                                                                                                   110o (Warp/Weft)
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
Washing                                                                                                          +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.

DRESS/SKIRTS1

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
 
WIRA Free Steam (after minimum 4 hours relaxation)                                 +/-2% (Length/Width)
 
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Durability Wash (15 minutes)                                                                        cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

 TROUSERS/JACKETS

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Tensile Strength                                                                                              250 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Tear Strength                                                                                                  1600 cN (Warp/Weft)
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            400 kPa
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)                                                                       120 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                120 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Abrasion Resistance                                                                                       30,000 revs
Colour Change at 5,000 revs                                                                          Grade 4
Colour Change at 10,000 revs                                                                        Grade 3-4
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 2,000 revs                                                                                              Grade 4
 
Resistance to Snagging
After 600 revs                                                                                                 Grade 3-4
 
Crease Recovery Angle
Face to Face                                                                                                    110o (Warp/Weft)
Back to Back                                                                                                   110o (Warp/Weft)
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.

TROUSERS/JACKETS 1

METHOD                                                                                REQUIREMENT
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
WIRA Free Steam (after minimum 4 hours relaxation)                                 +/-2% (Length/Width)
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Durability Wash (15 minutes)                                                                        cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

 TIES/SCARVES

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-5% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Hand Washing                                                                                                +/-5% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Hand Washing                                                                    Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Durability Wash (15 minutes)                                                                        cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

 T-SHITS/POLO SHIRTS

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            450 kPa
 
Seam Bursting Strength                                                                                  450 kPa
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 2,000 revs                                                                                              Grade 4
 
Resistance to Snagging
After 600 revs                                                                                                 Grade 3-4
 
Spirality
Tubular Garment                                                                                            Maximum 10%
Seamed Garment                                                                                            Maximum 5%
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-5% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 

 T-SHIRTS/POLO SHIRTS more

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
 
Durability Wash                                                                                              cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

SWEATSHIRTS/JOGGING PANTS

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            400 kPa
 
Seam Bursting Strength                                                                                  400 kPa
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 18,000 revs                                                                                            Grade 4
 
Spirality
Tubular Garment                                                                                            Maximum 10%
Seamed Garment                                                                                            Maximum 5%
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-5% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
 
Durability Wash                                                                                              cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

KNITWEAR

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 11,000 revs                                                                                            Grade 4
 
Spirality
Tubular Garment                                                                                            Maximum 10%
Seamed Garment                                                                                            Maximum 5%
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-5% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

OVERCOATS

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Tensile Strength
Woollen                                                                                                           150 N (Warp/Weft)
Other                                                                                                               250 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Tear Strength                                                                                                  1600cN (Warp/Weft)
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)
Fitted Garment                                                                                                150 N (Warp/Weft)
Loose Garment                                                                                               120 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                180 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Abrasion Resistance                                                                                       25,000 revs
Colour Change at 5,000 revs                                                                          Grade 4
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 2,000 revs                                                                                              Grade 4
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
 
WIRA Free Steam (After minimum 4 hours relaxation)                                +/-2% (Length/Width)
 

VERCOATS

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

 RAINCOATS/ANORAKS

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
 
Tensile Strength                                                                                              250 N (Warp Weft)
 
 
Tear Strength                                                                                                  1600cN (Warp/Weft)
 
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)                                                                       120 N (Warp/Weft)
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                180 N (Warp/Weft)
 
 
Abrasion Resistance                                                                                       30,000 revs
Colour Change at 5,000 revs                                                                          Grade 4
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 18,000 revs                                                                                            Grade 4
 
 
Water Repellency (Bundesmann)*
Shower Resistant                                                                                            < 50mls
Rain Resistant                                                                                                 < 10mls
 
Waterproof Garments (Hydrostatic Head)                                                    > 100cm WG
 
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.

RAINCOATS/ANORAKS more  

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
 
WIRA Free Steam (minimum 4 hours relaxation)                                         +/-2% (Length/Width)
 
 

Colour Fastness to:-

 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
 
Durability Wash                                                                                              cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 
 
*After one cleaning and pressing process.
 
 
 

 LININGS/POCKETINGS

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
Tensile Strength                                                                                              180 N (Warp\Weft)
 
Tear Strength                                                                                                  1600 cN (Warp\Weft)
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            400 kPa
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)                                                                       100 N (Warp\Weft)
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                180 N (Warp\Weft)
 
Abrasion Resistance                                                                                       30,000 revs
Colour Change at 5,000 revs                                                                          Grade 4
 
Resistance to Pilling
After 2,000 revs                                                                                              Grade 4
 
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.

ININGS/POCKETINGS more

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   +/-3% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Dry Cleaning                                                                      Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
WIRA Free Steam (minimum 4 hours relaxation)                                         +/-2% (Length/Width)
 
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
 
Durability Wash                                                                                              cc. 4
(as per Care Label)
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

HATS

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
 
Appearance after Sponge Cleaning                                                                Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4 s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 
 
Fabrics used in waterproof hats should be tested for water repellency by the most suitable method
in the same way as those for anoraks.
 

GLOVES

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
 
Fibre Composition                                                                                          Label +/-3%
 
 
Bursting Strength                                                                                            400 kPa
 
 
Seam Slippage (6mm opening)                                                                       100 N
(Garment Seams)
 
 
Seam Strength                                                                                                180 N
(Garment Seams)
 
 
Dimensional Stability to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          +/-5% (Length/Width)
 
Appearance after Washing                                                                              Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 cc. 4-5
 

HANDBAGS

 METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Strength of Attachment                                                                                  200 N
 
Appearance after Sponge Cleaning                                                                Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Perspiration                                                                                                     cc. 4   s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 

UMBRELLAS

METHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT
 
 
Water Repellency (Bundesmann)                                                                   < 10ml Penetration
 
 
Appearance after Sponge Cleaning                                                                Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Resistance to Corrosion of Metal Parts                                                          No corrosion/pitting
(after 4 hours wrapped in damp cloth at 37oC) or discolouration
 
 
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
ffff
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4
 
Light                                                                                                               BWS 4
 
Contrast Trims                                                                                                 4-5
 

BUTTONS/BUCKLES

ETHOD                                                                               REQUIREMENT

 
 
Appearance after prolonged Washing to Care Label                                     Must give a satisfactory
                                                                                                                        appearance.
 
Resistance to Corrosion of Metal Parts                                                          No corrosion/pitting or
(after 4 hours wrapped in damp cloth at 37oC)                                              discolouration
 
 
 
Colour Fastness to:-
 
Washing                                                                                                          cc. 4   s. 4
 
Dry Cleaning                                                                                                   cc. 4
 
Water                                                                                                              cc. 4   s. 4
 
Rubbing                                                                                                          Dry 4 Wet 3-4