Overlock Sewing Machine. Brother Industrial Sewing Machine

Overlock Sewing Machine. Brother Industrial Sewing Machine

Overlock Sewing Machine

Overlock Sewing Machine is very first sewing machine made by brother and other manufacturers.  The sewing machine which is used for sewing edge or to join two or more fabric pieces by five or more threads is called over lock sewing machine. Usually this machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed though some are made without machine cutters.

Function of Overlock Sewing Machine:

The functions of brother over lock sewing machine are given below.

Overlock sewing machine
Overlock Sewing Machine
  • Over locks sewing machine makes an edge finish and sew seams of fabric.
  • It cuts off the fabric for smooth edge for sewing with nancy sewing
  • This sewing machine is suitable for sewing such as T-shirt, skirt, suit,  trousers etc
  • This sewing machine suitable for diverse stitch as selectable options

Specifications of Brother Industrial Sewing Machine:

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name”][label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value”]
CategorySewing
Machine CategorySewing machine
Product Name5 thread sewing machine
Product ModelAccording to Manufacturer
Product ClassNew
OriginChina/India/Others
Brand/ManufacturerBrother industrial sewing machine
Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
Power220v/380v, 250W
TemperatureNormal
CertificationSGS/Others
Production CapacityNA
Mechanical ConfigurationFlat-Bed
Stitch Length0-3mm
Feed MechanismNeedle Feed
Weight20KGS
Speed6500rpm
Stitch FormationOver  lock Stitch
Max. Sewing Thickness5mm
Dimensions60mm*20mm*40mm
Super high speed5 thread
DescriptionUnique design,excellent performance,steady running,non-noise,longer usetime,aesthetic stitch,easier operation

Features of Brother Sewing Machines:

The features of brother sewing machines are given below.

  • Brother sewing machines are suitable for over edging operation of thin, moderate and thick fabrics
  • Brother sewing machines was equipped with automatic lubricating system
  • Safety over lock machine is a combination of 3 threads over lock machine and 2 thread chain stitch
  • This sewing machine has 1 thread and 2 loopers and works with 3 spools or cones of thread.
  • Highest speed of over lock machine is up to 8500 rpm.
  • Used for needles, 3 loopers and 5 cones of thread.
  • It provides straight chain stitch plus an edge finish.
  • Sewing machine repair facility
  • It is similar of baby lock

Installation Procedure of Overlock Machine:

The machine should be connected correctly according to illustrations shown herewith. Fix the Secondary Board to the under face of machine table by Bolt and Nut. Rubber Cushion should be put into each hollow of Supporting Board.

Installation Procedure of Overlock Machine
Installation Procedure of Overlock Machine

Sewing Speed and Turning Direction of Pulley :

The highest sewing speed of this machine is shown in the table below. However, from the point of view durability it is preferred to function in the initial use of new machine at a speed of 20-25 that is lower than the highest speed for 200 hours approximately about one month.

Brother Sewing Machine Parts :

Brother sewing machine parts are listed below-

Brother Sewing Machine Parts
Sewing Machine Parts
  • Presser foot release
  • Adjusting screw
  • Tape Guide
  • Eye guard
  • Oil cap
  • Thread guide
  • Thread tension spring
  • Belt cover
  • Oil sight gauge
  • Push button
  • Front cover
  • Model plate
  • Indicate lamp
  • Metering devices
  • Roller
  • Cylinder cover
  • Presser footer
  • Presser arm
  • Differential lever

 Elastic Tap Feeder and Control Box – 

Brother sewing machine parts including elastic tap feeder and control box

Elastic tap feeder and Control box
Elastic Tap Feeder and Control Box

Elastic Tap Feeder- 

  • Tap spool bar
  • Guide bar
  • Switch lever
  • Pole
  • Clamp
  • Main roller
  • Sub roller

Control Box – 

  • Display
  • Function Switch
  • Setting Switch
  • Power Plug
  • Power Switch
  • Fuse Holder

Motor Pulley-

Use the Clutch Motor of 3 phase and bi-polar, 400 Watt  and V-Belt of Type M. The motor should be located making both center lines of Motor Pulley and Machine Pulley be aligned when the Motor Pulley shifts to the left by pedaling.

Lubrication for Overlock Machine:

Quality machine oil is recommendable as the lubricant.

oil of brother sewing machines
Lubrication

Feeding OiI:

Because oil in machine have been drained completely at the shipment when it must be replenished with new oil without fail before the operation. The feeding should be made up to the upper one of 2 lines of Oil Sight Gauge(A) removing Oil Cap (D) marked OIL.  At the beginning use of brand new machine and the reuse of machine after long suspension of operation feed 2 or 3 drops of oil to Needle Bar(B) and Upper Looper Bar(C) without any fail.

Oil Gauge and Confirmation of Oil Flow:

Before the operation every day check the Oil Gauge regularly and replenish oil if the oil surface is below 2 lines. Oil Cap (D) should be tightened after the replenishment. At the beginning of operation confirm also that oil is flowing out of Oil Nozzle looking through Oil Cap (0).

Exchange of 0iI for Overlock Sewing Machine:

To have a long life of overlock sewing machine, after operation of about 250 hours the oil should be changed completely.

Exchange of 0iI for brother industrial sewing machine
Exchange of 0iI

After that, the oil should be changed 2 or 3 times a year. Oil change should be made as follows.

  1. Bring the machine head on the Table and
  2. Drain oil and removing Drain Screw(E)
  3. After draining, tighten the Drain Screw(E) again without fail
  4. To replenish the new oil, refer to “Feeding Oil” (Item 5-2)

Check of Oil Filter and Exchange:

If the Oil Filter clogged with dust normal feeding of oil is impossible. Ordinarily, it is recommended to check the Filter every six months. In case of no oil comes out of Nozzle despite the oil reservoir is sufficient and in case of reservoir of oil is extremely little, check the machine.

Exchange oil for brother sewing machines
Exchange

To repair ad check the Filter of Overlock Sewing Machine remove Oil Filter Cap(G). If the Filter is clogged with dust, it must be renewed. You can read more about this machine from brother sewing machine manual of their official site

[1] Obaidur Rahman, B.Sc.in Textile Engineering, BTEC

 

Fabric Tester list for Textile and Garments Industry

Fabric Tester list for Textile and Garments Industry

Fabric Tester

Fabric Tester is used for viscose fabric, dacron fabric, calico fabric, fashion fabrics, jacquard fabric for laboratory tests to check major cost component of any garment attains high importance in regard to its testing on various quality parameters. This tester cover nearly all the major properties in this section. This tester also used to check surface-to-air tearing strength of textiles as well as for calculating dimensional changes in the fabric after dry cleaning so it  is demanded in a large number in garments industry.

Types of Fabric Tester :

All types of fabric tester is given below with a diagram –

Textile tearing fabric tester
Tearing Tester
  • Washing Fastness Tester for polyester fabric
  • GSM Round Cutter
  • Digital Tensile Strength Tester
  • Matching Color Cabinet
  • Crock Meter
  • Fabric Strength Tester
  • FTT Fabric Touch Tester
  • Bursting Strength Tester
  • Fabric Bursting Strength Tester for nylon fabric
  • Schildknecht Flex Tester
  • Flex Tester
  • Tearing Tester
  • Lea Strength Tester
  • Micro Bursting Strength Tester
  • Stiffness Tester for viscose fabric
  • Digital Elmendorf Type Tearing Strength Tester
  • Mbtl Light Fastness Tester
  • Pray Tester for Fabrics
  • Wash Fastness Tester
  • Motorized Crock Meter
  • Pilling Tester
  • Traverse Thread Counter
  • Button & Snap Pull Tester
  • Light Fastness Tester
  • Tearing Strength Tester

Specifications of Fabric Tester:

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]

Product Category

Fabric

Machine Category

Fabric Tester for nylon fabric

Product Name

Light Fastness Tester

Product Model

According to Manufacturer

Product Class

New

Origin

China/India/Others

Brand/Manufacturer

Name of Manufacturer

Agent in Bangladesh

No/Yes

Power

220 V,  50 HZ

Temperature

Ambient to 50° C

Certification

SGS/Others

Production Capacity

500/Year

Light Source

500W, MBTL Fading Lamp

Average Lamp Life

1000 hours

Rack Rotating Speed

5r/min

BPT

20-120 degree+/-2 degree

BST

20-130 degree+/-1 degree

Specimen Thickness

Up to 15 mm

Specimen size

100 x 50 mm

Maximum Number of Specimen

10 Nos.

Working Life of Lamp

2000 Hours

Power Consumption

1 KW.

Dimension (W*D*H)

700x 500x 850 mm

Weight

25 kg

Chamber Temperature Range

20-93degree+/-1 degree

Description

This equipment is used for calico fabric, fashion fabrics,  jacquard fabric and other types of fabrics
[1] Deloarul Islam Bulbul, B.Sc in Textile Engineering,Southeast University
What is Carding Machine? It Makes Textile Fibers and Fabrics

What is Carding Machine? It Makes Textile Fibers and Fabrics

Carding Machine

Carding Machine is used for fibers, which need to pass a sequence of processing to get yarn. This is the first step of spinning process. Spinning of textile fibers may be carded and cotton is the most common products all over the world for spinning process is completely different from textile fibers spinning methods. The main task of carding machine are typically similar for all kinds of fiber. There are cotton carding and wool carding available in the market those are different from each other.

Feature of Carding Machine:

  • In reverse way of cylinder working on flats for increasing action and improve of web quality.
  • For flat stripping a comb is generally replaced by cleaning roller.
  • Wool Carding machine reduce noise
  • Carding machine has multi suction that point on card and continuous suction.
  • Front and rear stationary flats and carding segment of carding machine under licker in are fitted.
  • Carding machine is used for carding wool lapping process.
  • Electronic control and digital display similar parameter.
  • It is run by Inverter controlled system, feed roller and doffer drive for stepless speeds.
  • Equipped with metallic card clothing width best quality.
  • Double apron system the web take-off device allowing visual inspection for beautiful look.
  • It exist automatic stop motion devices.

Textile Fibers :

Meticulously designed three licker-in structure can make fine and full textile fibers and fabrics open, greatly increase fiber separation and orientation, reduce cylinderand and flat clothing load, extend clothing duration, enhance wool carding efficiency in cylinder-flat area, reduce neps and short staple. Front/rear stationery flats is made by aluminum alloy, featured by gradual increase density arrangement, good tip neatness and convenient gage adjustment to ensure textile fibers carding more fully and fine. Visible plastic filtering pipe, fea-tured by smooth and easy main-tenance. Multi continuous suction points. `

Textile Fibers
Textile Fibers

Objective of Carding

The carding protects essentially involves the opening of the fibre aggregates by working them between two closely spaced surfaces covered with inclined wires.

The main objective of carding are:-

  • To carry further process of fibre opening to a state of individual fibres.
  • To remove naps, tiny lumps of fibre and fused fibre ends.
  • To make the fibres to provide a uniform distribution.
  • To deliver a continuous sliver for further processes.
  • As we know that “carding is the heart of the spinning”

The material fed to the carding machine is in the form of lap which is here by mean of chute feed system from the blow room, there are three outlets from the blow room line serves three group of card A, B, C. A & B lines in the carding department are the same but the line C employs the better quality. There are 4 cards in line A, 5 cards in line B and 6 cards in line C. In Malwa Industries Ltd. all cards are made by RIETER and havingmodel C-50 which is the latest model of card. The waste removal at the carding stage is 5-6%. The waste % of both carding and blow room is 10-11% in which 2.5-3% is flat waste and rest of 7-8% is dropping the cleaning efficiency of card alone is about 90-95% and the cleaning efficiency along with blow room is 99%.

DIFFERENT PARTS OF CARD

  • CYLINDER
  • DOFFER
  • LICKER-IN
  • FEED ROLLER
  • DELIEVERY ROLLER
  • CYLINDER WIRE
  • FLAT WIRE
  • LICKER – IN WIRE
  • DOFFER WIRE

The C-50 carding machine is settled with a closed loop control for minimizing the sliver irregularity. The drives are given by mean of belt. Here for grinding purpose automatic grinding roller is incorporated in card. The setting of the feed roller and the step roll at the delivery end are made by mean of a voltage setting at the respective points for example: step roll setting is set at 8 inch by mean of 2.p0 setting corresponding to a voltage of 3700W.

VARIOUS PARAMETERS OF C-50 CARD

Cylinder speed                   =   550rpm

Flat speed                          =   0.26m/min

Delivery speed                  =    244mpm

Total draft                         =    98.1 – 98.3

Production                         =   95 kgs/hrs.

Corresponding factor       =  1.245

Can capacity                     = 52kgs

Sliver length                     =  8010m

Specifications of Yarn Carding Machine:

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name”]

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value”]

Product Category

Spinning

Machine Category

Carding Machine

Product Name

Cotton carding machine in yarn spinning

Product Model

According to Manufacturer

Product Class

New

Origin

China/India/Others

Brand/Manufacturer

Name of Manufacturer

Agent In Bangladesh

No/Yes

Power

6.88kw total

Temperature

Normal

Certification

SGS/Others

Production Capacity

1000sets/month

Dimension(L*W*H)

3132*1974mm

Width

1020mm

Sliver Weight

3.5-6.5g/m

Deliver Fixed Weight

3.5-6.5g/m

Feed Fixed Weight

350-800g/m

Spinning Method

Ring Spinning

Weight

5500kg

Delivery Speed

20-220m/min

Output

25-80kg/h

Breadth

1020mm

Coiler Can Size

600*1100mm

Cylinder Dia

1289mm

Doffer Dia

706mm

Doffer Speed

10-60rmp

Cylinder Speed

397r/min

Taker-In Roller Dia

250mm

Taker-In Roller Speed

1047rpm

Stationary Flats

Front 4 rear 7 stationary flats;Front 1 rear 1 web purifier

Flat Speed

166;187;213;4mm/min

Flat Quantity

Revolning flats 82pcs/working flats 30pcs

Range Of Application

Cotton/chemical fiber and blends

Yield(KG/H)

Maxmium 50

Description

Carding Machine owns special three roller stripping cotton device for making fiber

Parts of Carding Machine:

Fibers for Carding Machine
Carding Machine Parts
 

Textile Fibers Analysis Test:

Textile Fibers Burning test: Blow out the flame if still burning and smell the smoke. Note the odour and examine the color and nature of any ash or residue.

  • Take a small tuff of fibers (in this case yarn) and place close of the side of a small flame. Note if the fiber melt or shrink from the flame.
  • Move the fibre into the flame. Note whether the fibred burn and when held in the flame. Remove from the flame very slowly and note whether they continue to burn outside the flame.
  • Compare the behavior observed with that of the table flame retardant modification of some fibre cotton, rayon and acetate has retardate burning. Odour or burning and ash may be changed. Colored fibers especially those colored by pigments-will retain color in the color residue.
  • The vegetable fibre and regenerated cellulose (rayon) small like burning paper. Animal fiber and manmade protein fibers has odour of burning hair or feathers. Other manned fibre like acrylic nylon and spandex have characteristic odour which can be recognized with experience.
Type of fibreMelts near flameShrinkage from flameBurns in flameContinuous to burnAppearance of ash
Cotton/celluloseNoNoYesYesLight grayish
WoolYesYesYesSlowlyIrregular Blake
PolyesterYesYesYesYesHard Blake round bead
NylonYesYesYesYesHard gray round bead
RayonNoNoYesNoNone

Textile Fibers Solubility test: For test as room temperature (20°C) place a small sample of fibres in a watch crystal test tube or 50ml beaks and cover with the test solvent. Use above 1 ml of solvent per 10 gm of fibre.

 Hydrochloric acidSulfuric acidSulfuric acidFormic acid
Concentration (%)

 

Temperature (°C)

Time (minute)

20

 

20

10

59.5

 

20

20

70

 

38

20

85

 

20

5

Cotton/celluloseInsolubleInsolubleSolubleInsoluble
WoolInsolubleInsolubleInsolubleInsoluble
PolyesterInsolubleInsolubleInsolubleInsoluble
NylonSolubleSolubleSolubleSoluble
RayonInsolubleInsolubleInsolubleInsoluble

Microscopically cross section analysis: Obtain a parallel bundle of yarn. Use a sharp razor blade to make smooth cuts of the yarn, slides are prepared and viewed under magnification of 200-500 X compare with the cross section of known fibre.

Carding wool Making Tools
Carding wool Cross

Carding Feature:

  • 70% of the quality will be achieved in carding,  if the wires are selected properly
  • Following Table Can Be  Used As A Guide Line  For Cylinder Wire Selection If micronaire is lower than 3.5, cylinder speed should be around 350rpm. If micronaire is within 3.5-4.0, it is about 450 rpm if it is more than 4.0, it is about 500 rpm.
  • The lower the mike, the lower the licker in speed ranging from 800-1150rpm depending on mike & production rate.
  • Pointed wires should be used for cylinder.
  • TSG grinder should be  used once in 2 months for consistent quality.
  • Flat tops should be ground frequently (once in 3 months) for better yarn quality as flat tops play a major role in reducing neps & kitties in yarn. Emery fillet rollers should be used for flat tops grinding, instead of using grinding roller grinding stone.
  • Licker-in wire should be changed for every 150000kgs production in carding.
  • Stationary flats should be changed for every 150000kgs production in carding.
  • Individual card studies up to yarn stage should be conducted regularly, & if quality is deteriorated by 25% from average quality. Card should be attended (wire mounting, grinding, full-setting etc to be done).
  • Setting between cylinder & flat tops should be as close as possible, depending on variation between cylinder & flat tops. Care should be taken so that, wires do not touch each other.
  • Card auto levellers should be set properly. Nominal draft should be correct. Draft deviation should not be more than 5% during normal working.
  • Card stoppages should be as low as possible.
  • Slow speed working of cards should be avoided. Slivers produced during slow speed should be removed.
  • 10 meters C.V% of card sliver should be less than 2.0.
  • Sliver weight difference between cards should not be more than 2.5%.
  • Sliver U% should be less than 3.5 & spectrogram peaks should be attended.
  • Cylinder loading should be nil & if is loaded, wire should be inspected & accordingly grinding should be done or wire should be changed.
  • Sliver diameter difference should be less. Calendar roller pressure should be same  in all cards
  • Trash in sliver should be less than 0.1%
  • Uniformity ratio of sliver should be same or better than raw cotton
  • If kitties or seed coat fragments are more, higher flat speeds should be used & as much as flat waste should be removed to reduce seed coat fragments in yarn
  • In general sliver hank varies from 0.12 to 0.14
  • Individual card studies should be conducted up to yarn stage, if quality from a particular card is bad, immediate action to be taken to rectify problem. The lower the variations, the better the yarn quality.

Carding wool Making Tools:

Carding wool making tools are described below-

Cylinder and Licke-in:  The structure of driving cylinder and licker-in with flat belt is very easy and simple. The driving cylinder is smooth and stable.

Doffer: The doffer is run by an inverter as well as synchronous belt. The synchronous belt control stepless variations of the speed.

Cross Apron :Cross apron is used for sliver guiding and easy operation.

Feed Roller: The feed roller is run by an electronic frequency converter. The electronic converter permits stepless variation of its speed and it is controled to be synchronized with doffer by the computer.

Pressure Mechanism: Pressure mechanism of the machine delivers the consistence amount the pressure and the measurement.

Multi suction point: Multi suction of the device is pointed on card

Flats: The flats increase carding activities to improve web quality. For flat stripping comb is replaced by brushing roller and the cleaning roller.

Electric control system: The electronic control cabinet of card control doffer’s and feed motor’s speed for making a stepless variable-speed and run it at the rate, with a smooth speed up and down, that is why carding machine running steadily and reliably for making carding wool

[1] Mir Kawser Sohel, Fashion Merchandising
What is Mohair Textile Yarn Tester? Type of Yarns Tester

What is Mohair Textile Yarn Tester? Type of Yarns Tester

Textile Yarn Tester – Yeoman Yarns:

Textile yarn tester is test equipment which test textile yarn mohair yarns, polyester yarn, yeoman yarns for measuring optimum quality as these are quality tested by efficient auditors on various parameters. Only after they are assured of the quality aspect of these products, then only the professionals dispatch about the products to the market.

Types of Yarn Tester

1.      Wrap Reel

2.      Single Yarn Strength Tester

3.      Twist Yarn Tester

4.      Mechanical Lea Strength Yarns Tester

5.      CSP Yarn Systems

6.      Yarn Appearance Board Winder

7.      Electronic Lea Strength Yarns Tester

8.      Count And CSP System

9.      Tensile Strength Yarn Tester

textile yarn tester
Yarn Tester

Specifications of Reel Wraps  Yarn Tester for Textile Yarn:

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name”]

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value”]

Product Category

Yarn

Machine Category

Yarn Testing Machine

Product Name

Reel wraps for Yarn Length Testing

Product Model

According to Manufacturer

Product Class

New

Origin

China/India/Others

Brand/Manufacturer

Name of Manufacturer

Agent in Bangladesh

No/Yes

Power

AC220V 50Hz 100W

Temperature

Normal

Certification

SGS/Others

Production Capacity

NA

Test yarn fray

6 frays

Reel circumference

1000mm (metric system)(YG086D)

Spacing of yarn

60mm

Girth of yarn frame

1000 ±1mm

DimensionsL*W*H

780 mm×660mm × 480mm

Rev of reel

25-300 RPM (numeric pre-settable)

Interval of spindle

65mm

Number of wrap

 2~9999 Rev(pre-settable)

Programmable stop

 1~9 rev(pre-settable)

Reeling pre-tension

 0~100cN (pre-settable)

Instrument weight

50kg

Description

This  Electronic Reel wraps   is designed to produce skeins of yarn of a pre determined length and number of turns for count and strength testing

 

What is Mohair Yarn Testing:

Mohair yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material. Yarn results are essential for both estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. The important characteristics of yarn being tested are described below shortly-

  1. Yarn twist
  2. Linear density
  3. Yarn strength
  4. Yarn elongation
  5. Yarn evenness
  6. Yarn hairiness etc.

Twist Yarns:

Twist of yeoman yarns are  called turns which is twisting the fiber.

Linear Density of Yarn:

The excellence of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear thickness. There are a amount of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are categorised as follows

  1. Direct system
  2. Indirect System

Checking More Testing:

  1. Uneven shade
  2. Oil spot
  3. Neps
  4. Crease mark
  5. Machine Stoppage mark
  6. Listing
  7. Line mark
  8. Pick missing
  9. Double yam
  10. Dead cotton
  11. Bowing
  12. Fly yam contamination

Experiment Name: To measure the wash fastness.

The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these changes when subjected to particulates of conditions. It follows that color fastness must be specified in terms of these changes and expressed in terms of the magnitude.

Color-fastness to wash:

Wash-fastness is perhaps the most common once to be carried out: It is necessary to bear in mind that there are two types of wash

  1. Domestic wash
  2. Industrial wash

Which can be carried out with different of severity and for this reason there are 5 normalized types of with soap and at least 16 normalized washing tests for domestic and commercial laundering using a standard detergent.

The different characteristics are indicated in the table below:

Characteristics of test for fastness to washing with soap

Now we shall describe washing test no. 1 as an example to explain the mode of the operation.

If the sample adjusted to the test is fabric a rectangular measuring I0x4 cm- is cut out and placed the multifibre of the same size. The, composite specimen is placed in a container of the sample dyeing machine along with a soapy solution with a liquor ratio 1:50. The machine is started and the sample is streed 30 min

Buyer’s Requirements:-

  1. ECHO SCOURING: ISO 105 C06 A2S 40’C
  1. DECATHLON ISO 105 C06 60-C
  2. CARRE FOUR ISO 105 C06
  3. WELL L L ORD ISO 105 C06 A2S 40-C
  4. EURO CENTRA ISO 105 C06 A2S 40’C

Required materials:-

  1. Sample size 10×2 cm.
  2. Multi fiber at 10×2 cm
  3. ECE detergent (WOB)
  4. Sodium per-borate

5, Distilled water

  1. Normal cold water
  2. Steel balls

 Required instrument:

  1. Sample dyeing machine
  2. pH meter (where necessary)
  3. Scissor
  4. Stitch machine

Procedure:

  1. Cut sample & multifibre at I Ox2 cm and then Stitch
  2. 4 g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1~ I Sodium-pr borate put in distilled water & cooled at      20C and measure p (where necessary)
  3. Run the program in the following way:
  4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
  5. Dry at 60C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be more than 150C.

Experiment Name :To measure the color-fastness to water.

Buyer’s Reguirements :

  1. ECHO SCOURING: ISO 105: 1996 EOI
  2. DECATHLON: ISO 105: 1996 EOI
  3. CARRE FOUR: ISO 105: 1996 E02
  4. WELL LORD ISO 105: 1996 EOI
  5. EURO CENTRA: ISO 105: 1996 EO, I

Procedure:

  1. Sample size: Cut the specimen & the multifibre at 10×2 cm & sewn together.
  2. Solution: Wet in distilled water at room temperature & socked but only for CAREE   FOUR wet in 30g/l Nacl Solution at room temperature & socked.
  3. Place it in acrylic resin plates & put the weight on to the plates.
  4. Keep it in oven and kept the temperature at 3 7± 02’c for 4 hrs.
  5. Open the specimen and dry it in the air not exceeding 60’c temperature.
  6. Assess the staining & shade change with grey scale.

Experiment Name :To measure the fastness to perspiration acid and alkaline.

Buyer’s Reguirements:-

  1. LDECATHLON: ISO 105: 1996 E04
  2. CARRE FOUR: ISO 105: 1996 E04
  3. WELL LORD ISO 105: 1996 E04
  4. EURO CENTRA: ISO 105: 1996 E04

Experiment Name: To measure the fastness to rubbing (Dry & Wet).

Buyer’s Requirements:-

  1. L ECHO SOURCHING: ISO 105 X 12

2 DECATH-LON ISO 105 X 12

  1. CARREFOUR ISO 105 X 12
  2. WELL LORD ISO 105 X 12
  3. EURO CENTRA ISO 105 X 12

Procedure:

  1. Rubbing cloth: Take rubbing cloth at 5×5 cm size
  2. Sample size: Take the specimen at 14×5 cm at wales wise and course wise
  3. Put the rubbing cloth on to the grating and stag by steel wire and run ten times manually      and assess the rubbing cloth with grey scale.
  4. Place the rubbing cloth on the water and socked and squeeze. Place the wet rubbing cloth on to the grating and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually. then assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth by grey scale for wet rubbing.

Experiment Name: To measure the pilling of the given fabric.

Please not that all test specimens should be conditioned at 65 ± 5 R.H. 20 20′ c temperature. For 16 hrs & 2 hrs for polyester fabric. If customer demand then prior to test specimen should be washed at least 15 min & then dry and then try to start for testing.

Procedure:

  1. Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5 cm & benchmarks should be 10 cm by using template.
  2. Then sewn the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in to the tube a moulded polyurethane tube.
  3. Then four tubes are placed in a box and start 60 ± 02 rev/min for at least 5 hours or according to the buyer requirements.
  4. Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimens at the view cabinet and compare with standard photograph.

Experiment Name: To measure the dimensional stability (Shrinkage & spirality Buyer’s Requirements :

  1. .ECHO SCOURING: BSEN 26330: 19994 6a 40C (Flat Dry)
  2. DECATHLON: ISO 50770 40 (Tumble Dry)
  3. CARRE FOUR: ISO 6330 40C (Tumble Dry)
  4. VELL LORD: ISO 6330 40C (Tumble Dry)
  5. EURO CENTRA: BSEN 26330 40C (Tumble Dry)
  6. SQURE: ISO 6330 4a 50C (Tumble Dry)

Procedure:

  1. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioning before starting test.
  2. Cut the sample 50×50 cm & benchmark should be 35×35 cm. Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.
  3. Put sample in washing machine in the following ways for different buyer:
  4. ECHO: Gentle Wash Temp 40 ± 3C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
  5. DECATHLON: Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.

iii. CAREE FOUR: Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.

  1. WELL LORD: According to care label if mentioned or Normal Wash Temp. 40 ± 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
  2. EURO CENTRA: According to care label if mentioned or Normal Wash Temp. 40 ±   3C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min.
  3. SQURE: Gentle Wash Temp 50 ± 3′ C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin.) total 30 min.
  4. Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is flat dry.

Shrinkage test calculation

Spirality test calculation :

Suppose,

A = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash

B = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.

Experiment Name: To measure the fastness to light with the Megaosol light fastness tester Procedure:

  1. Cut the four pieces of test specimens according to the length & width wise and attached with the specimen holder.
  2. Then the holder set in to the Megasol light fastness tester.
  3. Then the experiment continued at 72 hours according to the buyer’s requirement.
  4. After 72 hours later the specimen taken from the light fastness tester.
  5. Then the test specimen compare with the Blue scale or computer.

Experiment Name: To measure the GSM of the fabric by GSM cutter.

Procedure:

  1. Cut the fabric with the GSM cutter (gram per square inch).
  2. Weight the fabric with the electric balance.

Suppose,

The weight of the fabric 2.51 gm. That means the GSM of the fabric is 251. Because when we cut the fabric with the GSM cutter then we get I from the 100 meter from the square meter.

Experiment Name: To measure the CPI & MTI with the magnifying glass setting

multiplier.

Procedure:

  1. Take the fabric& marking I inch with the ball pen according to the course& wales wise

of a knitted fabric.

  1. Then set the marking point with the multiplier scale & counting the CPI & WPI of knitted fabric in l inch.

Recipe Calculation:

Dyeing solution (all classes of reactive dyes):

Water: 840 CC

Cibacel DBC: 60 CC

Ciba flow C:   20 CC

Ergasol CO:    40 CC

Lioptan R/G:   40 CC

Total : 1000 CC

Dyeing solution (all classes of reactive dyes):

Water  : 880 CC

Invadine DIF/DP: 40 CC

AB45: 80 CC

Total: 1000 CC

L:R =   1:8

Fabric weight: 5 gin

Soda ash solution: 10 % (Prepared in to lab)

Soap solution: (Prepared in the lab)

Cibacron R =  1 gm/l

Cibacel DBC = 0. 5 gm /l

L: R     = 1:20

Acetic acid =   0. 5 gm/l

Textile Yarn Strength And Elongation:

Breaking strength and elongation is important factors for representing the performance of the polyester yarn.

  1. Single end strength
  2. Skein strength for reel wraps
[1] Thambi Durai, B.Tech. Textile Technology, Park College of Engineering and Technology, Kaniyur-India
Slitter or Slitting Machine. An Industrial Equipment

Slitter or Slitting Machine. An Industrial Equipment

Slitting Machine or Slitter:

Slitting machine or slitter is an industrial equipment is used for tubular fabric for making it to open form finishing line by machine operator for textile design. Slitting is a special process that is useful for cutting the tubular cloth through cut or  laser cut machine direction prior to stenter machine and open width compactor machine. During slitting by slitter machine it is necessary to be very attentive about the cutting line or else, cloth faults can be occurred there any time. It is used also for textile design. Slitting is a process which is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break wales line or lengthways direction prior to Stenter processing

Parts of this Industrial Equipment:

The parts are listed below-

slitter parts
Slitter Parts
  • Rotary blade
  • Laser cut blade
  • Plaiting
  • Ring
  • Guide Roller
  • Sensor

Function of Slitting Machine for Laser Cut:

The functions of the machine are listed below-

Slitting Machine
Slitting Machine
  • GSM of cloth can control by machine operator for textile design
  • It can control the diameter of fabric by slitter machine operated by machine operator,
  • This industrial equipment use for removing excess water
  • Some slitting machine have laser cut facility
  • This industrial equipment use after pretreatment and dyeing.
  • This industrial equipment slit tubuler cloth by the knife
  • Fabric diameter can control by this industrial equipment,
  • Slitting Machin use for preparing the cloth for stenter machine and open width compactor,
  • Twisting unit of slitter removes of cloth

Specifications of Slitter for Tubular Fabric:

The specification of the machine is listed below-

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“][label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product CategoryCutting
Machine CategorySlitting Machine / Slitter
Product NameSlitting Machine  for Tubular cloth
Product ModelAccording to Manufacturer
Product ClassNew
OriginChina/India/Others
Brand/ManufacturerIndustrial equipment
Agent in BangladeshNo/Yes
Power7.5KW
TemperatureNormal
CertificationSGS/Others
Production CapacityNA
Width of Roller80″~120″
Main Motor2HP gearmotor + 2HP inverter
Outer Motor2HP gearmotor + 2HP inverter
Working Speed0~100yards/min
De-twisting   controlautomatically   or manually
Dimensions (LxWxW)7400mm*3500mm*6500mm
Weight1380kg
DescriptionDual functions for opening tubular cloth after dyeing and automatic rope opening machine is equipped with stainless steel detwister

Abnormalities seen in the Finishing Process:

Slitter Machine –Operators diligence & concentration should be at the highest level when operating a Sutter slitter m/c. no negligence case was seen in the spot.

Dewater m/c- Air pressure is the main object to be considered. Less air quantity in the fabric tube can create crease mark. So there is always a crease mark area formed near the swatch cut as air comes out from that point. Some negligence has been seen here. The operators sometimes fail to maintain the proper air pressure.

Stenter MachineOne temperature sensor is not working. Continuous problem with a burner was observed. Fabric guiding roller sensor is not working properly.

Tensionless Dryer- cooling fan of the control panel is not working. So a stand fan is been used here. Fabric centering guide is not functioning properly. No negligence case was seen here.

Process Requirements of Slitter

  • Equipment used
  • Following equipment is used for slitting process :
  • Airtex Slitter Machine (Sweden).
  • Key Accessories
  • Following key accessories are used for slitting process :
  • Scissors
  • Sewing machine
  • Sewing thread
  • Trolley
  • Cutting blade
  • Measuring tape, etc.
  • Materials / Chemicals Used
  • Not applicable.

Safety of Slitter Mc

  • Following Do’s and Don’ts are to be followed during operation :
  • Do not wear loose dress that may entangle with the machine parts while running.
  • Always wear rubber shoes.
  • Be careful about the circular cutting blade.
  • Do not insert hands between the rollers during running the machine.
  • Be careful in handling the trolley of fabrics.
  • Be aware of the first aid treatment procedure.

Operation Procedure of Slitting Machine

Operation Staff

Operation stuffs of Slitting Process includes:

  • Manager
  • Textile Technologist / Production Executive
  • Production Co-ordinator
  • Machine Operator
  • Assistant Operator

Checklist Before Operation

Operator must check the following items before slitting the fabric in the Slitter machine:

  • Machine parameters are set.
  • Required manpower is available for feed side and delivery side.
  • Feed side fabric is set in the round trolley.
  • Empty trolley is set for delivery side.
  • Sewing machine is set at the delivery side to stitch the unstitched rolls of the fabric.

Operation Procedure

The operator fixes the trolley on the turning table and picks up the fabric in a round trolley, then following a standard operating passage way he starts the machine for slitting that fabric.

Product Quality Check

Design Check: Operator checks the design of fabric at delivery side and matches with the required design as specified in the batch card.

Fabric Bow & Slant Check: Operator checks the bowing and slanting of fabric at delivery side. If any abnormality is found, he adjusts the machine. If he fails to make that straight, he informs to shift officer to take the necessary action(s).

Fault Check: The operator checks the knitting fault (i.e. Double yarn, missing yarn, yarn contamination, etc.), spinning faults (i.e. Thick & thin yarn, barre mark etc.), and other faults (i.e. Dye stain, bend mark, chemical stain, torn & hole, shade variation, etc.) during the process. When minor faults occur within 2-3 rolls which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on the batch card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows :

  • Checks the feed side fabric to make sure that these faults did not occur from the previous process.
  • Stop the machine to identify the place where from this faults are occurring.

Response to Equipment Faults

Following are the response to be taken in case of equipment fault of Slitting machine:

Machine FaultsResponse
Turn Table ProblemMechanical Engineer should be called
Forwards/reverse ProblemElectrical Engineer should be called
Speed Potentiometer ProblemElectrical Engineer should be called
Basket Moving ProblemMechanical/Electrical Engineer should be called
Plaiter ProblemMechanical Engineer should be called
Circular Cutting Blade ProblemMechanical Engineer should be called

Slitting Machine /Area Cleaning

  • The daily and weekly cleaning works for Slitting Machine are described below:
  • Clean the sieves that can be reached from the outside of the machine at least once per shift
  • Clean the moving basket properly after each batch.
  • Clean all the rollers properly after each batch.
  • The Maintenance Department performs the preventive maintenance task as per the PM schedule. Refer to Maintenance Specification  for details.

Applicable Forms & Documents

  • Forms & Documents Used
  • The necessary forms & documents for Slitting process are listed below :
  • Process Batch Card
  • Machine Downtime Report
  • Production Register of Slitter Machine
  • Document Flow
  • The document flow of Finishing Process is as follows :
  • Operator fills out the Batch and the concerned officer put his signature on it upon verification. The Batch Card moves with the fabric for the next step of finishing process. (i.e. Stenter).
  • Machine Downtime Report is maintained to keep record of any stoppage in production due to machine break down or any other reason. Operator fills this and the responsible officer sign on it upon verification
  • Production Register of Slitter Machine is used to keep records of date wise production details. Operator fills this out along with his remarks (if any) and this report is recorded for future reference.
  • Attachments
  • Examples of all applicable forms and documents are attached.

Sleeting Machine Maintenance:

FrequencyMaintenance Criteria
Weekly
  1. Check and clean dust form all motor fan cover
  2. Check all motors’ terminals
  3. Check tension of all chains and adjust if required
  4. Grease all the bearings
Monthly
  1. Check current setting of motors’ overload relays
  2. Check all ON/OFF switches
  3. Check the oil level of Gear box and refill it if required
Two Monthly
  1. Check all nuts and bolts, tighten if required
  2. Check current setting of motors’ overload relays
  3. Check pulleys and belts
Six Monthly
  1. Check Panel cooling fans & Check inverters’ cooling fans
  2. Check all safety switches
  3. Check the pneumatic pipes and connections
  4. Check pneumatic cylinders and pins
Yearly
  1. Visual checking of all power and control cables (tighten the terminals if necessary)
  2. Check all sprockets, alignment and condition of slitting machine
  3. Check all indicating lamps o slitting machine
  4. Check the oil level in Gear box of slitter and refill it if required

[1] Nurja, B.Sc in Textile Engineer,  City University, Email: [email protected]