Texturizing machine is used to synthetic filament yarn. A texturized yarns are made by introducing durable crimps, coils, and loops along the length of the filament yarn. Texturing yarns which are found in yarn market are used for the fabric for air bags due to low air permeability. This textiles equipment is also used for swimwear, sportswear, outerwear and sewing thread for extensible fabrics.
Function of the Textile Equipment for Filament Yarn :
The functions of the textile equipment for filament yarn is given below –
Crepe Yarn for the textile equipment
Twisting yarn
Heat-Setting filament yarn
Texturising in Single Process for tall production efficiency.
Texturing machine is suitable for 60-300 denier Polyester FDY and other fabric
This textiles equipment allows higher yarn speeds.
Specifications of Texturing Machine :
Specifications of the machine is stated here-
Specifications Name
Specifications Value
Product Category
Yarn
Machine Category
Texturing Machine
Product Name
Texturizing textiles equipment
Product Model
According to Manufacturer of yarn market
Product Class
New
Origin
Made in China
Brand/ Manufacturer
lathe
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
220watts/100 watts
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Spindle Type
φ60
Twist Range (Tpm)
600-2000
Spindle Spee(Rpm)
16000
Feed Package Dim
φ70x240l
Feed Package Weight ( Gms.)
750
Take-Up Tube Length (mm)
135
Package Dia (Mm)
200
Weight On Take-Up( Gms)
1500
Heater Type
Electric 4000mm tube
Temperature Adjustable Range
50-250°c
False-Twist Spindle
Magnetic 150000 rpm
Description
Suitable for texturing continuous polyamide and yarn paradise from dtex 34 to dtex 156.
Textile Fiber from Jute
Another important characteristics of a textile fibre is its dimensional fineness. The thinner are the cross-sectional areas of the filaments the more of them can remain in the cross-section of a yarn of a specified diameter. Thus it follows from the textile considerations that very fine fibres are capable of under going high drafts so as to produce a fairly thin yarn and yet can maintain the requisite yarn strength. But in the case of jute fibre the dimensional fineness is worked out by the breakdown of the meshy structure through machine processing. The fibre entities produced at the card machine have divergent crosswidths and are capable of splitting further laterally to different extend till thein dividuals of similar category of fineness are obtained. B ut even with the finest filaments jute yarn as thin as very fine cotton yarn has not yet been a practical possibility. The thinnest all jute yarn which has been experimentally produced with the existing jute processing machinery is about 1/1/2 lbs/spyndle which is equivalent to only 7’s cotton count whereas the cotton yarn of 100’s count and even finer has been spun. The reason for this lies in the fundamental difference in cross widths of jute and cotton filaments dimensional fineness of jute is about five to ten times bigger than that of cotton. Fineness of individual jute filaments is somewhat, comparable to that of the coarse wool fibres such as corriedale wool. The general impression from the spinner’s point of view that jute is an important textile fibre as it is coarss and rough to the feel and does not have the pliability, smoothness and suppleness without fluffiness possessed by a good class textile fibre.
A jute filament is considered stiff and hard, which mean that the elastic qualities particularly suitable for very fine spinning are lacking with jute. This is because jute prior to mechanical processing needs treated with batching emulsion to improve its suppleness and to reduce its stiffness to some extent. L ow bending property and moderately high tensile elasticity fovour the application of more twist but torsional rigidity of a jute filament is about ten times higher than of cotton and about five times than that of wool fibre. While its torsional rigidity is about two third that of cotton and about three-fourth that of wool.
With these characteristics of jute in view, possibilities should be explored to break through into specialized outlets in which jute would be able to substitute cotton, wool, linen and other textile fibres natural and synthetics, either as all jute texture or in union or in blends. From the scattered records of indigenous literatures and memoirs of the foreign visitors it is evident of Bangladesh. Mainamati folksongs mention about patsari a kind of all jute handloom cloth which was extensively used by the poor people particularly of the Eastern and Northern Bengal. Dyed jute fabric with red strips was also used for making mosquito nets. Thus there is nothing new about the idea that jute can be made into coarse fabrics for weaving apparel. There has been fantastic changes and innovations made in the textile technology since the handloom age, but in the field of jute spinning not much advancement has been made since the machine processing started at Dundee about the middle of the last century. Neither cotton nor woolen textile machinery can suitably be adopted for jute processing. The present jute processing machinery which are by no means designed to make fine yarns although it has been possible to produce 2/1/2 lbs. yarn with them at a much reduced rate of production
Raw material (Yarn) used:
In Auto Knit Fabrics Ltd. cotton of carded, combed, compact, polyester in filament or textured form, mélange of ecru or cotton mélange etc. yarn of different brand used according to buyers’ requirements. Insertion of elastomeric filaments like spandex of various international brands is common here. Stripes are knitted with dyed, undyed, mercerized, non mercerized yarn. Organic cotton yarn can also be provided if required.
Fabric Design produced:
Auto Knit Fabrics Ltd. is capable of producing stripes of any width and enormous colors. The engineering stripes machines are used for producing such fabrics. Except this feeder stripes are also produced. Single jersey fabrics and its derivatives like la-cost, polo-pique, terry fleece etc are produced. Rib and interlock fabrics and their different derivatives such as 2×2, 6×3 etc are also produced. Different figured fabrics can be produced by semi jacquard machined by varying the tucking lengths and looping sequences.
Collar and cuffs of any designs are produced here in the semi jacquard and jacquard machines. The jacquard design can be computerized and easily transferred to the knitting machine by Floppy disks. The yarn that used in the body fabric is also used in producing collar and cuff.
Production capacity:
The circular knitting section has 14 – 15 ton per day production capacity.
Recently it is producing 9 – 10 ton per day.
Fabric inspection and quality check:
Before any finishing process quality of a fabric should be inspected. This inspection is done by point systems i.e. for various defects are specified penalty points are given to the faulty fabrics. In Auto Knit Fabrics Ltd. 4 point system is used for fabric quality assurance. Here the maximum defect point is 4.
In this case if the total defect points per 100 yd2 are 40 or more the fabric should be rejected. Here fabric is checked by two Calator Ruck fabric inspection machine of Germany.
Remark:
We complete the training in knitting section in three working days. In this limited time proper observation on every stage of production is not possible. But we tried hard to give our maximum concentration on different stages of production processes. Costing and organ gram is not provided. For this reason these are not included on this report. The individual machinery analysis was not possible due to time shortages. The deviation of general equation of GSM found in the production but reason is still in dark. Data included is collected by asking officials only, from machine logos or from batch cards. For this reason perfection of all data is not claimed.
Features of Texturizing Machine Yarn Paradise:
The features of the machine which makes yarn paradise that is given below-
Lowest production cost for yarn
Heavy equipment for yarn
Best heater allows excellent power saving
Single-deck frame structure for excelent yarn speeds.
Garments CAD – computer aided design of Gerber, Lectra and Catia is online cad designed for Apparel Industry. We are the largest Garment and Textile ERP software collector in Bangladesh. We sale customized ERP for the factories. We are agent of all Garment and Textile ERP Software company. We will forward you to the best ERP software company based on your requirements. We are trouble shooter of fashion industrial software like Willcom, Barudan, Lectra, Gerber, iEcho, Datacolor, Shedomaster, Batch, Qc etc. For any queries, please Contact Us., Cell# 01792525354. Garments CAD – computer aided design software becomes the best tool for pattern making in garment industry. In garments industry computer aided design Software is used for making patern, marker making, pattern grading, marker making and digitizing manual patterns. A lot of garments CAD – computer aided design software suppliers who have developed the systems for pattern making andcad drawing all over the world. Widely used computer aided design systems and their software modules are listed below.
Software is distributed by Lectra and authorized agent all over the world. Some agent provide freecad training. List of Lectra products which support a lot of CAD file format . Software Evolution is a subscription which gives you access to the latest releases of Lectra’s solutions, allowing you to continually improve your technical performance and to optimize your design environment with each technological innovation. Software Evolution protects your investment over the long term. It provides substantial savings while enabling you to maintain state-of-the-art technology
Lectra
Gerber for Pattern Making:
Software is distributed by Gerber and authorized agent all over the world. Changes have been made to the Style Converter to make it easier to correct the pieces that have errors during conversion. Styles with warnings or errors can be automatically saved to a new folder during conversion. In addition, a csv file with all of the errors and warnings can be generated. List of Gerber software for pattern making as well as cad drawing:
Gerber
iECHO for Computer Aided Design:
Software is distributed by iECHO and authorized agent all over the world. List of iECHO products for pattern making as well as cad drawing. Style Design System is one module of ECHO Garment CAD System; the main users are garment designers. Style Design System includes lots of useful libraries, such as style library, fabric library, part library, decoration library you can also scan new design by scanner. Besides, there’re many kinds of painting tools and colors for designers to select and design styles. When you are operating tool, there’s prompt in the below information bar, which helps designers to understand tools better and get better effect.
Catia for Pattern Making :
Catia software is used for pattern making and other cad drawing management system. There are some freecad, free drawing program is found in online
Optitex Pattern Making :
When using PDS with 3D runway creator for PDS, you can easily drape your patterns on one of the several models included in the software of your own model
Mittens are made by this knitting machine which is special type of knitting machine for producing gloves. It built by loops of yarn which connects them into various knits to produce crochet fingerless gloves. Labour protection gloves, hand gloves, magic gloves and finger gloves can be produced by this machine. There are different types of Knitting Machine is manufactured by knitting machine company[1]
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves by Computerized Glove Knitting Machine :
It is made up with good quality material as well as beautiful processing technology which is collocated by components of computer box. Computerized knitting machine can knit half finger glove , crochet fingerless gloves, fingerless gloves pattern, full finger type glove, labor protection glove, ingot finger glove, hand gloves, winter fashion gloves.[2]
Specifications of Glove Knitting Machine for Finger Gloves:
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name”]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value”]
Product Category
Knitting
Machine Category
Gloves Knitting Machine
Product Name
Finger gloves Knitting Machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
single-phase or three-phase:220v,250w, 50/60HZ
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Size
L:46 L:52 L:63 L:89
Speed
finger:200r/m, palm:180r/m
Driving System
Crank Drive
Knitting System
Snikers knitting theory
Abnormity Stop
Broken yarn,poor dropping,overloading
Screen Display
Digital Diaplay
Dimension
1230X650X1750mm
Weight
250kg
Description
Used for half-finger, all finger, finger gloves, silver ingots and simple jacquard weave gloves
[1]
Feature of Glove Knitting M/C for Hand Gloves:
Feature of Computerized Glove Knitting Machine is given below-
Glove Knitting
Function is convenient , high controlled rate, and low labor power
Computer control system for fingerless gloves pattern,
Computer control system for hand gloves pattern
Generally assume frequency conversion wiht running smoothly.
Central lubricating system of knitting terms for fingerless gloves pattern
Fingerless gloves pattern is created by this machine
Crochet fingerless gloves are created by this machine
This machine manual show how to knit fingerless gloves
Whole procedure is organized by computer and can design the size of the hand gloves
Automatic stop device of miscount , thread break, overload, all of these can reducing the knitting damage.
Should adopts micro computer contact screen to control [2]
Simplex Machine for spinning process is an industrial machinery used for spinning process of Textile technology to transform the drawn sliver into roving. The main function of simplex machine is the attenuation of drawn sliver and insert small amount of twist to give required strength of roving. Finally, the twisted roving is wound on to bobbin. Simplex machine is used to the carded and combed yarn process but for the rotor spinning system this process can be eliminated.
Functions of this Spinning Machines
Drafting: The main task of the spinning machines to attenuation of the sliver to required count of the roving.
Twisting: To hold it together, small amount of twist is inserted. The numbers of twist is very low.
Winding: To easily transport the twisted roving, it winds onto the bobbin developed by textile machine manufacturers
Recent Developments of Simplex Machine
Higher flyer speed: maximum 2000rpm. 1000~1500rpm is commonly used.
Improved drafting system: for example, SKF PK1500 and SKF PK1600. Apron drafting, better control of fibre and draft range 4-20.
Improved flyer design
Higher flyer speed: up to 1500 rpm
Plastic flyer: Light in weight, enables higher flyer speed and less power consumption.
Top mounted flyer
No spindle is used; flyer gets drives from the top.
Suction unit in the drafting zone.
Data collection system.
Automatic Tension Control device(ATC)
Improved building mechanism
Higher content of roving
Sliver stop motion
Roving stop motion
Separate flyer and bobbin drive
Over Headed Traveling cleaner(OHTC) is used
Speed profile
Desired doff length can be achieved
False twister
Equal angle of roving
Computerized monitor
Inching motion
Gearing in the oil bath for smooth running of the machine and high production.
Main Parts of Spinning Machines of Textile Technology
The motors of cnc machine are controlled by PLC and inverter asynchronously to drive the roving building for spinning process
Simplex Machine for Simplex Filler
This simplex filler machine is to transform the sliver coming from draw frame into roving for textile production
The main operation of the machine involved creeling, drafting, twisting, winding, building and doffing.
Entering sliver counts of 0.12 Ne to 0.24 Ne and counts of the delivered roving of 0.27 Ne to 3Ne.
The number of revolutions of the spindle is maximum value of 1500r.p.m. for textile production
Drafting system stretches draw frame sliver and make it thin using modern textile technology
Simplex Machine Scope and Responsibility
Responsibilities
Person
1. Sourcing – Raw material through corporate office General Manager
2. Raw material source verification
3. Co-ordination with corporate office.
4. Environmental aspects ensuring the surroundings are not polluted.
General Manager
1. Transport and Handling – Mode of Transport and Precautions
2. Ware housing – General storage place, practices, storage during processing, storage area’s precautions.
3. Trace ability system – General system of trace ability, Product trace ability from raw material to finished product.
4. Book keeping system – General system of Book keeping, Production records, other production related records.
5. Cleaning – General schedule’s maintaining material used and method of cleaning, cleaning prior to Organic processing.
6. Packaging – Environment friendly recyclable material use.
7. Product-rests (waste) – Collecting and packing of various wastes during processing of ‘ORGANIC’ material.
8. Training – Training of employee’s for processing ‘ORGANIC’ material
Mill Manager
1. Transport and Handling – Mode of Transport and Precautions
2. Ware housing – General storage place, practices, storage during processing, storage area’s precautions.
3. Trace ability system – General system of trace ability, Product trace ability from raw material to finished product.
4. Book keeping system – General system of Book keeping, Production records, other production related records.
5. Cleaning – General schedule’s maintaining material used and method of cleaning, cleaning prior to Organic processing.
6. Packaging – Environment friendly recyclable material use.
7. Product-rests (waste) – Waste collecting and packing of various wastes during processing of ‘ORGANIC’ material.
8. Training – Training of employee’s for processing ‘ORGANIC’ material
Manager Production
1. Training – Train the officers, staffs, and operators for ‘ORGANIC’ material processing and conservation.
2. Process Flow chart – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing as per Process flow chart.
3. Transport & Handling – To Ensure ‘ORGANIC’ material transport with approved trolleys, Labels display and store in the approved storage place and properly covered and displayed with ‘ORGANIC’ label.
4. Ware housing – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material is stored in an approved storage area with Display boards. To ensure the storage place cleanliness and house keeping.
5. Identification or Labeling & Trace ability system – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing labeling and traceability as per Process flow chart and arranging label/placards, identification bands, caps.
6. Book keeping system – To maintain the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing records and checking for its correctness.
Asst. Manager (Production)
1. Training – Train the officers, staffs, and operators for ‘ORGANIC’ material processing and conservation.
2. Process Flow chart – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing as per Process flow chart.
3. Transport & Handling – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material has to transport with approved trolleys, Labels display and store in the approved storage place and properly covered and displayed with ‘ORGANIC’ label.
4. Ware housing – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material is stored approved storage area with Display boards. To ensure the storage place cleanliness and house keeping.
5. Identification or Labeling & Trace ability system – To Ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing Machine’s, Storage place is having Label/Placards and use identification bobbins, cone tip color as per process flow chart.
6. Book keeping system – To maintain the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing records and checking for it’s correctness
Sr. Production officer
1. Sustainable Textile process description – General process description from raw material to finished product.
2. Process flow chart – Flow chart showing movement of product during processing, handling and indicating process parameters. Arranging a meeting and explain about the process while new cotton/lot introducing time with Manager’s, Department in charge and Shift in charge.
3. Sustainable textile quality assurance procedure – Internal quality assurance follow-up as per Quality plan.
4. Sampling and residue analysis – Follow-up of Periodical quality control checking regarding pesticide, residue etc… by third party
5. Internal Auditing and inspection of GOTS system – Internal inspection and self assessment system is to be followed to ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ process and Records as per GOTS manual.
6. Identification or Labeling & Trace ability system – To Ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing machine’s, Storage place is having Label/Placards and use identification cans, color bands, bobbins and caps as per Process flow chart.
7. Critical control points – To verify and ensure at every stage from receiving raw material to processing, finished goods storage and transport of ‘ORGANIC’ material is as per GOTS system.
Project Manager
1. Sustainable Textile process description – General process description from raw material to finished product.
2. Process flow chart – Flow chart showing movement of product during processing, handling and indicating process parameters. Arranging a meeting and explain about the process while new cotton/lot introducing time with Manager’s, Department in charge and Shift in charge.
3. Sustainable textile quality assurance procedure – Internal quality assurance follow-up as per Quality plan.
4. Sampling and residue analysis – Follow-up of Periodical quality control checking regarding pesticide, residue etc… by third party
5. Internal Auditing and inspection of GOTS system – Internal inspection and self assessment system is to be followed to ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ process and Records as per GOTS manual.
6. Identification or Labeling & Trace ability system – To Ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material processing machine’s, Storage place is having Label/Placards and use identification cans, color bands, bobbins and caps as per Process flow chart.
Manager Quality
1. Social aspects – To ensure Social aspects as described by Gots system Follow strictly and adhering to terms and conditions mentioned in the MSA Personal policy manual.
2. Work place – To ensure the shop floor cleanliness & atmospheric conditions.
3. Working hours – To ensure the employees are not working more than 48 hrs/week and Overtime not more than 12 hours/week.
4. Workers wages – To ensure the employees get minimum wages as per national regulatory body standards.
5. Child labor – To ensure neither directly nor indirectly Child Labor is employed.
Manager Administration
1. Transport and Handling – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material has to transport with approved fork lift (or) hand trolleys, Labels display and store in the approved storage place displayed with ‘ORGANIC’ label. Issue ‘ORGANIC’ material as requested by production as per receipt/issue register.
2. Ware housing – To ensure the ‘ORGANIC’ material is stored in approved storage area with Display boards. To ensure the storage place cleanliness and house keeping.
3. Identification or Labeling & Trace ability system – To Ensure the Raw material and Finished goods of ‘ORGANIC’ material Stored in a approved storage place is having product Labels.
4. Book keeping system – To maintain the ‘ORGANIC’ material (or) incoming records as per Raw material incoming register and checking for its correctness.
Sr. Stores officer
Conclusion:
Simplex machine is very similar to Roving Frame or Speed Frame Machine. To transform sliver to roving, this spinning machines are used in the spinning mills. This Simplex Machine is very popular in the spinning mills.
Draw frame machine of spinning is used to transform the sliver coming from the carding into draw nsliver in cotton spinning mill. The draw frame improves the uniformity of fibers by drafting and doubling and straightens the crimped, curled and hooked fibers. The operation of draw frame is blended, doubled and leveled.
Types of Draw Frame
Generally draw frame machine can be categorized as
Non Autoleveller Draw Frame
Autoleveller Draw Frame
The non auto draw frame is novel pre-assembled machine that is designed for producing silver from different types of raw materials like cotton, man made fiber and blending material which is unmatched quality at highest delivery speed.
On the other hand autolevelling with high production machines are always the basic functions of autoleveller draw frame.
Specifications of Draw Frame for Textile Framing
Specification of draw frame is described below-
Specifications Name
Specifications Value
Product Category
Spinning
Machine Category
Draw Frame
Product Name
Draw Frame Machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/Others
Brand/Manufacturer
According to Manufacturer
Agent In Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
220v, 5.5KW
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
1500 Set/Sets per Month
Delivery Number
2 holes
Maxmium Output Speed
800m/min
Total Drafting Mutiple
4-14 times
Drafting Style:
5 over 4 with pressure bar
Feeding Sliver Number:
6-8 pcs
Fiber Length:
15-76mm
15-76mm
Φ400,Φ500,Φ600,Φ800,Φ900,
Output Can Dimension
Φ350,Φ400,Φ450,
Dimension (L*W*H)
2490x1000x2110 mm
Weight
2400KG
Description
Drawing frame absorbe the advanced techniques, technical drawing and adopted mechanical integration design for textile framing
Feature of Draw Framing Textiles Machine
Feature of draw framing textiles machine is given below-
Draw framing has pressure bar to curve drafting in cotton spinning mill
It has closed oil bath gear box
Textile fibre drafting easy to adjust
Microprocessor is installed in this machine.
It is found in draw frame shop
This machine shows how to draw framing textiles fibre
Draw Frame
Draw frame feature
Draw frame with a short term Auto leveller is a must.
No of doubling should not be less than 7 & total draft also should be more than 7.
U% should be around 1.5 to 1.8.
1 meter C.V% (from Uster Evenness Testing machine) should be less than 0.6.
Top roller lapping should be almost nil.
If group creeling is used, all sliver piecings from creel should not enter tongue & groove roller at same time.
No sliver should be removed from machine after tongue & groove roller (is meant for sensing feed variation) for any reason as draft correction is be done according to tongue & groove roller sensing & there is a time lag between sensing & correction.
Top rollers should be checked by operators at least once in a shift.
Top rollers should be checked by operators, whenever there is a lapping.
Top roller buffing should be done once in 20 days(maximum 30 days).
If top roller eccentricity is more than 0.05mm, it should be buffed.
Top roller eccentricity should be zero after buffing.
Diameter variation between top rollers should be less than 0.1mm.
Sliver test should be conducted at least once in 15 days & A% should be less than 0.8.
The delivery speed should be around 400 to 500 meters per minute depending on make of machine.
Whenever there is a top roller lapping, min 10m of sliver should be removed from can.
Creel breaks should be as low as possible & it need to be pieced properly. Trials are done to see yarn made out of piecing. Piecings should not be too thick & high twisted.
Application of Combined Draw Frame and Lap Former Machine
Some are new draw frame and lap former machine combined. Being the preparation device of cotton combing, it makes the pre-doubled silvers further draft and double to blend into sheet and deliver out in cotton layer. In this way, the straightness and parallelization of fibers are improved and the with standard specification, weight and density is wound to be ready for comber. This machine is suitable for spinning cotton fiber with length under 60mm. IT is used to spin medium and high – count yarn below 100Ne.
Technical Level of the Fiber Drawing Machine
Breake the traditional form of transmission, achieve uninterrupted fall lap
Reduce energy consumption, reduce running cost
High Speed up to 160m/min
High efficiency, large lap dia up to 650mm and length up to 400m
Reduce lap joint
Reduce the number of lap change
High quality of internal and external pressure evenly, for textile fibre evenness can reach 0.1%
How To Framing Textile Fibre
Textile Fibre has been used for the commercial manufacture of heavy textile yarns and fabrics for over 150 years. Manufacturing industries were initially located at Dundee in Britain, but mills have since been set up in many other countries, some of which grow jute themselves, and in fact it once became a worldwide industry. Demand for jute goods reached a peak between the two world wars, but since then the industry has experienced a strong competition from bulk handling, paper sacks, and from the production of synthetic polymers such as polypropylene. Extrusion as a film, followed by slitting into tapes for weaving on modern highspeed loom, provides a means of producing alternative materials having similar characteristics to those of jute goods and be marketed at a lower cost. The result of this competition is that the demand for jute goods is declining slowly but steadily, and unless some firm corrective action are taken, the future of the jute manufacturing industry will a matter of grave concern, especially to the jute growing countries such as Bangladesh and India, where both fibre production and manufacturing are sources of substantial employment.For the long term stable demand for jute goods, some technological innovations are essential. The industry cannot afford to stand still, as it does the competitors would take advantage of new technology, as and when it becomes available. During the first few years, jute-spinning systems have been greatly improved, both in productivity and in the levelness of the spun yarn.
In contrast, agriculture research has had little impact on the development of the fibre for spinning, although other aspects of fibre production might have benefited. I t is basically by improving the quality of fibre that the potential of the jute industry as a textile supplier can be enhanced This work deals with ” fibres-on machinery” research and how the interaction of fibres and spinning system determines the physical characteristics of the spun yarn. This requires the knowledge of the parameters that determine the spinning performance and the quality of fibre, and how to measure and evaluate these. In the spinning mill, grading the fibre based on spinning quality, is distinct from that of commercial classification and should be done by making the best use of what is available. The experimental works to be described here are based largely on the studies made in Dundee, at the former British Jute Trade Research Association. Some of the works have been published, but much of it have had only limited circulation. The objective is to present a view of the fundamental principals of grading Textile Fibre for spinning performance. The cheapness of jute fibres in fact, act as an incentive in favour of taking it to the textile usages predominantly served by cotton, wool etc. the question naturally arises as to why the large scale production of jute fabric suitable for clothing and furnishing materials has not yet met with much success. This may be due to the fact that grows mainly in Asia, particularly in Bangladesh and India, which are far away from the centers of technological advancement and also probably due to some limitations of Textile Fibre as it is to function straight way as substitute of or in blend with other textile fibres. In the development of new uses of jute as with any other materials considerations should be given to its basic or inherent characters.
Limitations of jute fibre
In case of cotton, wool etc, each fibre has an well defined entity called staple length, but Textile Fibre has no such natural length and consists of a large number of tiny bits of bast cells in bundles arranged end to end along the filament length. These cells are embedded in amorphous cementing materials which are of compositions much different from the cells themselves. Thus its heterogeneity and composite nature makes jute filaments fundamentally different from the unicellouse fibres like cotton. The fibre individuals of widely different lengths ranging from a few millimeters to about half a meter can be extracted from a jute yarn. This wide distribution of lengths unlike that of cotton, wool etc is not natural but produced from the meshy complex by the artificial conditions of mechanical processing. The failure to estimate the length characteristics prior to processing puts a great handicap to the practical means of fibre control and to precise panning of production. The incidence of short fibres and fibre friction are responsible for the typical irregularity of jute yarn. I f the divergence in lengths could be narrowed down and very short fibres could be eliminated, the irregularity would then be minimized to a large extend.
The problems of irregularity and haireness of jute yarn are yet to be overcome. Recently, a new idea of cutting the long jute staples of some inches has been conceived so as to achieve uniform feed at the carding syage for eventual production of more uniform yarn. Such yarn, if in sufficient quantity could be manufactured would go into making of materials like upholstery, furnishing materials, decorative fabrics etc. in the industrial scale. One of the main hurdles to establish a market for these fabrics is their colour reversion on exposure to sunlight. Improved techniques for bleaching dyeing and printing of jute materials are under extensive studies and aim to achieve a reasonable degree of light fastness is being made. The use of deep shades maching with the change of light fastness is being made. The use of deep shades machining with the change of fibre colour has met with good success already.
Jute in union and in blend
In these union fabrics the cotton or rayon yarns constitute the warp threads while jute yarn is used as filling thread. The weaving pattern is designed so as to give a facing more of the warp threads than the weft ones. Such materials used as furnishing fabrics present a good look and hang well. Some finishing treatments are necessary to provide a smooth finish to the cloth. To eliminate the protruding fibres from the surface of the fabric, it is cropped or signed then passed through a sizing material or a suitable chemical resin and finally calendered. The alternative means of using jute for making cloth is to blend it with some other fibre. Not much work has been done so farin the field of jute blend. Rigorous investigations in finding out right proportion without impairing the mechanical performances should be made. In the tropical countries like that of ours cotton clothing is extensively used, general demand to replace cotton with jute is due to obvious reasons of meeting shortage of cloths. Some attempts to produce fine thread of more jute and less cotton in blend have been made, but as the two fibres have different physical characters the yarn consequently becomes of poor quality and strength. The coarse and stiff jute fibres oppose cohesion with twist and tend to spring out of the yarn resulting in thick and thin places and hairiness of the yarn. Jute filaments although are cut into short staples before processing, but the cotton equally efficiently. The conventional wool wool processing machinery are not also entirely suitable for jute but those used for producing worsted type materials may be adopted for jute after modifications.
In order to use jute for various clothing applications, attempts were made previously to modify the fibre properties with chemical treatment Textile Fibre when treated with strong alkali, becomes softer and darker in colour and assumes the characteristics crimped appearance like wool. This process of chemical modification is called woolenisation and resulting fibre can be blended with wool to make blankets, wrapers, scarves etc. may be used as knitting wool substitute. Alkali treatment removes some of the constituents which contribute to the stiffness of jute and imparts to it better stretching properties, although in the process fibre loses a considerable part of its strength. This loss in strength may be made up by treating the fibre again with some crosslinking reagent which will reinforce the lost strength but maintain its suppleness and improve the dye fastness. In order to blend with cotton, the jute staples are required to be modified into finer, more pliable and suitable for fast dyeing. In the fibre laboratories various improved bleaching techniques and reasonable light fastness have been developed. Studies to be made as to how far they are suitable for jute. Important factors, that to be taken into consideration in case of clothing materials are their wash and wear ability. Further, consumer markets these days are cost technological aspects of jute should be closely studied and the cost structure of jute materials need to be supported by actual facts and figures of their performances. The present trend is such that market for jute goods although expanding generally, is changing in pattern. T hus, not only the existing products need be improved to keep abreast of modern conditions but new and novel manufactures of jute must also be devi sed to sati sfy the trend of changing demands. In the development of new uses for jute, attention must be given to its basic or inherent properties that are benef icial but of which, the full advantage has not yet been taken. High intrinsic strength and low extendibi l i ty are among such characteri stics both of which can successfully contribute to the device of certain industrial end uses as for example in the f ield of rigid plastic laminates. Similarly coated jute fabrics and jute reinforcements of fer considerable potentials for increasing jute utilization. Jute can find its usage in these areas comparatively easily.
In conclusion, it may be mentioned that much has been said recently in the press about new jute cloth but i t is immaterial whether we cal l the jute cloth as ” Jutex” , ” Jutton” , ” JR I -tex” or “Nu-Jute” . I t is essential that intensive research work and close collaborative ef forts are necessary to attribute the qual i ties of a texti le f ibre to jute. Careful pretreatment and special chemical f ini shes of jute are to be made to achieve performance characteri stics of a novel yarn and fabric texture. Successful commercial utilization of new findings will depend on their ability to compare with other materi al s in actual use and economically also. This article about textile fibre and Draw Frame Machine.