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How Fabric Examining Machine Works with 4 Point System?
How Fabric Examining Machine Works with 4 Point System?

How Fabric Examining Machine Works with 4 Point System?

Fabric Examining Machine

Fabric examining machine with variable speed control, overhead lighting  and yardage counter. The machine must be clean with no excess oil and no sharp edges to damage the fabric. The garment making process should inspect 10% of rolls from each delivery AT RANDOM – this should include all colours and dye lots within a delivery. If the results show a high fault rate, an additional 15% of the rolls should be inspected. A high fault rate is defined as an average fault rate in excess of 29 points per 100 square yards.

Fabric examining machine procedure:

Auto as a standard for design, colour and handle. The process needs to check against this cutting as follows:

Design, Colour, Handle, Shading

At the beginning of each roll, a 6” full width cutting should be taken as a design & colour reference and checked against the approved bulk cutting for the following:

  • design
  • colour
  • handle
  • side to centre and side to side shading

This full width cutting must be labelled with the order number, fabric reference number or name, batch number, piece number, colour name, colour number, date and whether it was acceptable to the approved bulk cutting or not.

Width

The width of the fabric between the stenter pins must be measured and compared with the given minimum usable width.

Shading & Width

Each roll checked, should be stopped at least 3 times during inspection. At these stops design, colour, handle and side to centre and side to side shading should be assessed. End to End shading must be checked by comparing the full width cutting to this point in the roll. Also the cuttable width (between stenter pins) should be measured.

The cuttable width should be recorded on the inspection report, as should any design, colour or handle variability detected.

Length

The garment making process should check the fabric length stated on the piece ticket against the actual length of roll for variance. Both values should be recorded on the inspection report.

Defects

During the inspection, the fabric needs to be checked for defects which are rated on the 4 point system, as follows:

– Flaws up to 3” in length = 1 point

– Flaws up to 6” in length = 2 points

– Flaws up to 9” in length = 3 points

– Flaws over 9” in length = 4 points

* The maximum penalty for any running yard (36” x fabric width) must not be more than 4 points.

* Flaws in both warp and weft receive equal points.

* All holes, regardless of size, must be penalised 4 points.

* No more than 2 joins per fabric roll are allowed.

* The average point value per shipment should not exceed 28 points per 100 square yards.

* Individual rolls exceeding 40 points per 100 sq. yards must be rejected.

How to calculate points per 100 square yard:

Actual points counted   x           36”            x 100 = points / 100 sq. yards

Actual roll length            Actual width

e.g.     25       x      36”     x 100 = 28 points / 100 sq.yards

75 yds           43”

After the inspection is completed, calculate the average point value per 100 sq. yards by totalling the points and dividing by the number of pieces inspected.

This will be the final points total for this inspection.

All defect points must be recorded in the inspection report. In addition, the location of all defects must be marked at the right selvedge of the piece.

Bowing & Skewing

Any bowing or skewing needs to be mentioned on the inspection form as a percentage.

Colour Continuity

The process needs to prepare a colour continuity card which shows a 10cm wide x 20cm long (minimum) cutting of each roll. These need to be mounted onto a card by folding them in half (lengthwise) and overlapping each other. The continuity card should then be assessed in the light box under the requested light source against the approved bulk fabric cutting sent by Auto. See light box guide below.

If any shading is found that is not commercial, the process needs to send roll cuttings to Auto immediately for their approval. A roll cutting is a 20cm long x full width cutting of each roll.

Please ensure that any shading found is marked on the inspection form, by stating how many different shades in total were found.

Washing Shrinkage

In order to assess washing shrinkage the process needs to wash piece(s) of the bulk fabric for every order/colour, picked from rolls at random and 1 piece per 1000yds, mark an area of 50cm x 50cm and wash & dry according to the advised washcare on the make sheet. Then gently smooth out the fabric by hand (do not iron it) and please enter the found shrinkage/extension on the inspection form.

Please also press half of the washed cutting (if pressing is required for the order) to assess the look after pressing and confirm that it is acceptable i.e. that the fabric lays straight and true and has no degree of pucker. Please confirm the outcome on the fabric inspection report.

For any fabrics that are woven on 2 beams we require you to send half of the washed and half of the pressed cutting attn. to our fabric technologist immediately for our reference. Please note that you can identify any 2 beam fabrics by the wording ‘dobby’ added to the fabric sheet.

How to measure correctly?

In order to get accurate figures on shrinkage/extension that are fully representative of bulk, please follow the below steps:

  • Take ¾ to 1 yard full width of fabric.
  • Any measurement taken should be taken from markers at least 6 inches away from the selvedge or piece end.
  • The length/width measured should be 50cm (warp) x 50cm (weft) and should be measured using a fine ball point marker, so that no deviation occurs.
  • All measuring should be carried out using a ruler with each centimeter subdivided into 10 parts.
  • The sample should be washed at the required temperature (see washcare on make sheet) and dried (if required on the washcare). Straighten the fabric out after it has dried and measure in the unironed state.
  • Any shrinkage/extension figures should be specified with 1 decimal, e.g. -1.6%

Steaming Shrinkage

In order to assess steaming shrinkage the process needs to take piece(s) of the bulk fabric for every order/colour, picked from rolls at random and 1 piece per 1000yds, mark an area of 50cm (warp) x 50cm (weft) and iron according to the advised care instructions on the make sheet. Please enter the found shrinkage/extension on the inspection form.

How to measure correctly?

In order to get accurate figures on shrinkage/extension that are fully representative of bulk, please follow the below steps:

  • Take ¾ to 1 yard full width of fabric.
  • Any measurement taken should be taken from markers at least 6 inches away from the selvedge or piece end.
  • The length/width measured should be 50cm (warp) x 50cm (weft) and should be measured using a fine ball point marker, so that no deviation occurs.
  • All measuring should be carried out using a ruler with each centimeter subdivided into 10 parts.
  • The sample should be ironed at the required temperature (see care instructions on make sheet).
  • Any shrinkage/extension figures should be specified with 1 decimal, e.g. -1.6%

Contamination

On any yarn dyed orders where the design has a light ground and where any parts of the garment will be fused or if comments on contamination are made in sample approval comments (only applicable for samples made from correct bulk fabric), please fuse 4 pieces of fabric (representing collars/cuffs/plackets) picked randomly from different roles to assess whether there is any fabric contamination that will show up after fusing.

If you do not find the cuttings commercially acceptable or if you are not sure, please send them through to the fabric technologist at Auto Ltd. for approval

Standard Operation Procedure

A – Unloading

Perform By – Store Keeper

Report to – Store Manager

Must check and be ready with all relevant documents from commercial manager sending by mail of the goods before unloading. Then store manager will be responsible inform to GMP / GMA for their reference by mail.

  • Packing list
  • Invoice
  • Challan

I f above documents is ok store manager will allow to unloading goods in unloading area ( quarantine area ) and inform to QA Manager to do the inspection of fabric and trims.

Also when the unloading is start bellow responsible peoples must be present at unloading area.

  • Store Manager
  • Senior in charge
  • Security Officer

And count accordingly to the packing list and make sure goods are tally with the packing list submitted by commercial manager. If there is a any shortage store manager must update the by mail commercial manager and GMP/GMA for the further action

B – Fabric Inspection

Perform By – Fabric Inspector

Report to – QAM

Purpose

The purpose of this procedure is to inspect the quality of the fabric as per buyer’s requirement &take the necessary corrective &preventive action to rectify all the failures.

Scope

This procedure covers all fabric the is to be used for production at Auto Garment in Fabric Inspection Machine

Responsibility

Fabric inspector will be responsible to do fabric inspection as per the 4 point system under supervision by quality manager

Sample selection criteria for inspection random selected 10% of the bulk lot wise.

Procedure

  1. Fabric inspector must check 10 % from received quantity as per lot wise.
  2. Uncover the fabric roll & lead into the inspection machine.
  3. Fabric color standard has to be maintained at the inspection machine during inspection.
  4. in case of buyer approved sample is unavailable factory QAM approved sample will be present at inspection machine.
  5. Color standards should contain as follows.
  • customer
  • season
  • color name
  • shade group
  1. Must doing inspection against supply inspection report.

Inspection of fabric should be done as per the following

  1. Correct side of the garment should be considered as the face side of the fabric for inspection.
  2. Length of the fabric roll should be checked against the quantity mentioned in the supplier roll tag any variation in the length should be informed to supplier through the merchandiser.
  3. Usable width if fabric should be checked at 3-5 different places at equal lengths of the roll and compared against the purchased width .if the width is less the purchased width, need to inform fabric supplier with evidence. A mini marker for the actual with should be drawn to the new consumption. The supplier is liable to replace the fabric for extra consumption.
  4. Weight of the fabric will be checked at the three different areas across the width. Average of the three areas should be within +/- 5% of the specification weight.
  5. Fabric defect should be checked according to the 4 point system and marked with a defect sticker highlighting the defect, any approval required, need to arrange the defect sample for approvals & get the approval before pp meeting·
  6. Selvedge of the fabric should be inspected for defect, cutting, waviness etc.
  7. Within the roll color shading will be checked at start, middle end of the roll .if nay variation identified a full width stripe (approximately 6″ width) from start. Middle and end. of the roll will be taken and a blanket will be made to assess the color shading
  8. Above findings shell be marked on the inspection report .sample shell be kept as evidence for any major defect .issue. Point 100 Square and predicted garment fall out to be calculated on above information.
  9. If the point count is greater the 28 point per 100 square need another 10% of the batch is inspected. Still the point count is 28 point per 100 square yards goods cannot pass without 100 % inspection.
  10. If 100 % inspection also found over mark will inform the merchandiser and reject the fabric and do the necessary action.
  11. Sample of the reject goods have to submitted to the relevant merchandiser for getting approval from the buyer
  12. Based on the NRC – Non conformity report must have initiated and the reject goods should be store in a separate rejection area with the clear identification and mark.
  13. After that store manager should be inform to relevant merchandiser with correct quantity as rejected during trims inspection by mail.
  14. Rejected quantity must be sent through the challan to supplier after getting confirmation from respective merchant
  15. Store manager must be follow up status regarding replacement of returns trims and update records accordingly
  16. Replacement fabric must do 100% inspection again.

B – 01: Shade Band procedure

  1. Need to cut 5 pcs of blanket from each roll the measurement of 8″x 8″
  2. Make role wise blanket 1yard X 1 yard 5 sets and sent to washing plant.
  3. It’s should be separate with 3 set of wash and two set of non wash and make shade band.
  4. Wash blanket one set will be handover to washing and another set will be keep as a factory reference, another set should keep as a shade segregation,
  5. Non wash blanket one for washing plant and one should be kept in garment factory reference.
  6. One wash blanket will cut and segregate shade group and will make the report.
  7. Re wash the blanket if shad not within range and get the approval by merchandiser accordingly.

B – 02: Shrinkage Test

[:or shrinkage purpose from each roll will be cut and sent as follows

As sawn above fabric inspector will be responsible to cut pcs from each roll and mark by permanent marker pen with measurement of 50 cm X 50 cm.

  1. After the measurement mark will be sent to washing plant for wash.
  2. Wash shrinkage pcs separately measure for shrinkage and roll will be segregate as per shrinkage.
  3. The same inspector will be responsible to update in a format and hand over to each copy to all relevant department ( store’s/cutting/production/quality)

4 POINT STYSTEM

 

.        DEFECTI. UP FO-0-3″IN LENGTH OR WIDT                            =       01 POINT
I.        DEFECF UP TO-3′ – 6″ IN LENGTH OR WIDTH                        =      02POINT
II.     DEFECT UP TO-6′- 9″ IN LENGTH OR WIDTH                          =     03 POINT
III.  DEFECT MORE THEN9’IN LENGTH OR WIDTH                       =     04 POINT
IV.  ALL HOLES,COLUR SHADING,SELVEDGE DAMAGE,TEAR MARKS = 04 POINT
V.

C – Trims Inspection

Perform By – Trims Auditor

Report to – QAM

Purpose

 To inspect the quality of the trims as per buyer requirement and take the necessary corrective / preventive action to rectify all defects

Procedure

  • Trims inspector must have approved trim card sign by merchandiser before start the inspection
  • Before start the inspection must pass through the metal detection machine for identify the fault .if any metal including in inspected trims report update and inform to QAM for further action.
  • Should maintain the register with details style/goods received date/color/qty and inspection information (fail/pass)
  • Inspection shall be done 10% from order quantity. Shall select random sample quantity as per A.Q.L. sample chart
  • In the event of inspection fail another inspection must be carried out as per the authorization by QAM.
  • Sample of the reject goods have to submitted to the relevant merchandiser for getting approval from the buyer
  • Based on the NRC – Non conformity report must have initiated and the reject goods should be store in a separate rejection area with the clear identification and mark.
  • After that store manager should be inform to relevant merchandiser with correct quantity as rejected during trims inspection by mail.
  • Rejected quantity must be sent through the challan to supplier after getting confirmation from respective merchant
  • Store manager must be follow up status regarding replacement of returns trims and update records accordingly
  • Will do the 100 % inspection for replacement trim’s

  

D – Fabric and Trims storing

Perform By – Store Keeper

Report to – Store In charge

  1. After inspection pass fabric storing will be done buyer wise and bin card update accordingly under supervision by store keeper
  2. Also trims will be store as per the buyer wise and bin card update accordingly
  3. Also very same time register must be maintain by store keeper

E – Issuing Fabric to cutting

Perform By – Store Keeper

Report to – Store In charge

  1. Before performing this process store keeper must have fabric inspection report/shrinkage / shade report in hand.
  2. Cutting Manager will prepare store challan and sent through the cutting servicer to get required fabric as per shade/shrinkage / width and lot.
  3. Servicer will be present store requisition to store manager and will get approval
  4. After that cutting servicer will submit to store keeper and store keeper will be responsible to issue fabric according to SR.
  5. After issuing store keeper must be responsible to update challan/ register/ bin card according to issuing quantity.
  6. If anything excess cutting manager will be responsible to prepare Meterial Return Challan and sent excess goods to Store Manager

F – Issuing Trims to production line

Perform By- Store Keeper

Report to – Store In charge

  1. Before performing this process store keeper must have Approved trim card in hand.
  2. As per the input quantity sewing servicer will prepare trims requisition form and submitted to store keeper after sign by production manager
  3. Store keeper must cross check with cutting report and line requisition report to re confirm quantity and size ratio to be ok and get approval from store manager
  4. If figures are match store keeper have authority to issue trims according to challan and update register/bin card.
  5. If anything excess Production manager / Finishing Manager will be responsible to prepare Left over Hanover sheet and sent excess goods to Store Manager. It’s should be received by Store Keeper.

G – Prepare Monthly Shipment Status

Perform By – Store Manager

Report to – GMA

  1. Shipment sent as per the commercial invoice and packing list under supervision by store manager / Finishing Manager / Security in charge.
  2. After sending the goods store keeper will be responsible to update the shipment status
  3. End of the month store keeper must complete the shipment status
  4. This report should be checked and forward to respective concern (GMP / GMA/Head IE / Accounts and finance) after approved by GMA

 

H – Style Reconciliation Report

Perform By – Store Keeper

Report to – Store Manager

  1. Finishing Manager will prepared finishing reconciliation report and sent to Store Department for prepare the style reconciliation report.
  2. Store Keeper left over will be responsible to prepare the style reconciliation report and submit to store manager further checked and sign.
  3. After complete the report and sign by Merchandising department / Head IE / GMP/GMA store manager will be responsible to hand over copy to all concern.

 

I – Left over stock Report.

Perform By – Store Keeper

Report to – Store Manage

  1. After shipment complete left over store keeper will be prepared the Left over stock report.
  2. This report should be checked and sign by Store manager and GMA.
  3. GMA will be responsible to share this Report with Managing Director
  4. Left over store keeper will be responsible to remove label and sent all left over garments to outside warehouse under FC.

This is the berife description of Fabric Examining Machine Works with 4 Point System

Written By - P.K Roy, GM, Esan Fabric Mills Ltd, Chennay, India

About Engr. Kh. Mashiur Rahman

He is Garment Automation Technologist and Editor in Chief of Autogarment. He is certified Echotech Garment CAD Professional-China, Aptech-India, NCC-UK and B.Sc. in CIS- London Metropolitan University, M.Sc. in ICT-UITS. He is working as a Successful Digital Marketer and Search Engine Specialist in RMG sector during 2005 to till now. Contact him- apparelsoftware@gmail.com

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