Button Hole Sewing Machine is First Sewing Machine

by Engr. Kh. Mashiur Rahman | Aug 6, 2014 | Sewing & Production

Button Hole Sewing Machine

Button Hole sewing Machine like juki , janome  is a simple automatic machine which is used garments industries to make hole of button of apparel. It is easier than hand sewing system.  The size of the hole of button hole sewing machine depends on the size of the button. The   hole is created by a cutting knife which is operated from the top after stitching. Various type button hole is formed by this modern and latest machine. This is very similar of Attaching Buttonhole Machine

Buttonhole Machine First Sewing Machine:

Buttonhole machine is mainly used for clothing such as dress shirt, pant, knit wear, sweaters etc.

Parts of Sewing Machine:

The parts of sewing machine is specified below-

• Cotton stand
• Pulley
• Thread Guide Box
• Thread Guide
• SD card
• Tension release lever
• Treadle
• Motor
• Thread take up cover
• Eye guard
• Cutting knife

Features of Buttonhole Machine :

The features of a buttonhole machine is given here which is found in a sewing shop

• It is easy adjustment of hole size & stitch density are facilated.
• The hole is cut either before or after stitching.
•  Buttonhole machine is very  first sewing machine
• It is a straight or shaped slit cut.
• Special type of thread is used for sewing and thread of the machine is available on sewing shop
• Lock or chain stitch may be used which may be available on sewing shop
• This type of machine is available in sewing shop manufactured by different sewing machine company

Guide Line for Button Hole Operation: 

For woven tops garments we use two types of button hole machine in production.  Types are Purl and whip.

There is a guide line which we have been following but in some cases it is not maintained properly which causes quality failure and reduces productivity. Guide lines are stated below-

• For any type of formal shirt button hole operation will be purl and for casual it will be whip.
• For any type of wash garments button hole operation will be whip.
• If fabric weaving is compact we may go with purl hole.
• Exception to the above rules can be applied as per buyer’s requirement.

Specification of Buttonhole Sewing Machine :

Specification of a first singer sewing machine  is given below-

Moving the buttonhole sewing Machine :

The buttonhole sewing machine should be carried by two people as shown in the figure. Hold the motor cover A firmly by hand, so that the pulley will not rotate. Please wear a pair of skid proof shoes while moving the sewing machine. When the machine is ready for operation all the safety devices is not allowed.

The Installation Position:

Please do not install the sewing machine near the equipment’s such as Television, Radio, or Wireless Telephone. Or these equipment’s will experience electronic interface. The wire should insert to the AC power socket directly. If using the extension wire this might cause malfunction.

Some Faults During Production:

• Shadding at neck yoke
• Poor shape at armhole
• Puckering at slv joint
• Needle damage at slv joint
• Hole at body
• Oil stain
• Yarn contamination
• Hi-low at front and back part
• Shadding at neck yoke
• Poor shape at armhole
• Puckering at slv joint
• Needle damage at slv joint
• Hole at body
• Oil stain
• Yarn contamination
• Hi-low at front and back part

Buttonhole Sewing Machine Working Procedure: 

Use of knife to make hole according to size

For buttonhole machine of 18 liner hole is created by 9/16 Knife. For button of 14 liner hole is created by 7/16 Knife. Snap button for adjusting with garment’s if button fitting tight then presser should be increase at female button to make free (big) the hole. If snap top side plastic or glass then should be considered for increasing presser and have to adjust a presser that will not damage top side.

Rules to identify about liner of button

As we know,

1 inch = 40 liner

1 inch = 2.54 cm

= 25.4 mm

Liner = 25/ 40 [mm / liner]

= 0.625

Button width = 11 mm

Liner = 11/ 0.625

=   17.60

= 18 [Because after point if the number is bigger than 5 than it counts as 1 and point dismissed]

Rules to set hole at neck and front placket

Rules = front placket width /2 -3     [here 3 mm minus for bartack width]

As rules

If f / placket width = 3 cm = 30 mm

Hole placement of neck will be = (30 / 2 – 3) mm

= 12 mm

If f / placket width = 3.5 cm = 35 mm

Hole placement of neck will be = (35 / 2- 3) mm

=  14.5 mm

Front placket hole placement

Front placket width / 2 = f / plkt hole placement

If , placket width = 30mm

Hole placement will be = (30 / 2) mm

= 15 mm

Rules to set BD button

For setting BD button following rules should follow:

At first we have to fold a gmts as standard fold and after that have to measure collar spread.

According to collar spread have to make a pattern to mark for button attached. To make pattern we have to carry in mind following elements:

• collar spread
• collar shape
• collar point length & width

Note: this pattern should differ from size to size.

Classification of button & hole

There are many kinds of button. But almost using types of button are given below:-

• wood button
• metal button
• plastic button
• chock button
• etc

There are four types of hole:-

• horizontal
• vertical
• eyelet
• diagonal

Classification of button & hole stc

Button stc are two types those are found in sewing shop:-

• normal lock stc
• cross and lock stc

Hole stc are two types:-

• whip
• pearl

Use of hole in gmts

For wash item hole should be whip and for non wash item hole should be pearl. Because there is possibility to broken hole (pearl) by wash.

Thread use at button and hole sewing

For hole sewing 60/2 count no thread is used almost time.

For button sewing 50/2 count no thread is used almost of time.

Pull test Procedure of Button Hole Sewing Machine

For Plastic, Snap & Metal button 

• weight & Time

Standard weight – 90 Newton or 9.5 Kg (Approx) & Standard time – 10 second.

Size set garments & every size at ten pcs should have to pull test. (Procedure can be very)

How To Make A Buttonhole :

• Button hole must be suitable for the type of fabric/product/wash
• Button hole must have matching thread colour with fabric/top stitches, if no other instruction has been given
• Button hole must be sewn/placed according to the order instructions
• Button hole must be sewn with sufficient density
• Button hole must be stitched through minimum 2 layers of fabric and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate,
• Button hole must open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing.
• Button hole must One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing. Wearing test
• Button hole must must be done if sensitive fabrics!
• Button hole must have the right size
• Button hole must allow ease of buttoning
• Button hole must be clean and nice
• Button hole must recommended to pre-stitch around buttonhole before sewing, see Button Guideline

How To Make Buttonholes More Process –

• Buttonholes must be sewn on minimum 2 layers of fabrics, and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate, open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing, but wearing test must be done if sensitive fabrics!
• Buttonholes must 10-14 stitches for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of thread. Example: o adult garments: 10 for normal button, 14 for big button. Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand
• Buttonholes must 7-10 stitches x 2 for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of thread. Example: o adult garments: 7+7 for normal button, 10+10 for big button.  Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand 90 N
• Buttonholes must be sewn with poly/poly core spun yarn on outerwear garments, o metal- and heavy buttons on all garments (if no specific requirement due to e.g. garment dying etc).
• Buttonholes must All other garment types: poly/poly core spun yarn is strongly recommended, but 3 ply thread is also accepted
• Buttonholes must when machine stitched, always be attached with lock-stitch machine, if no other instruction has been given
• when hand sewn, always be securely stitched on with minimum 4 stitches, with double
• thread, and finally fastened with 3 stitches and a knot
• when shank button, always be attached through minimum 2 layers of fabric on lock-
• stitch machine. If not possible with lockstitch machine it must be secured by hand
• after machine sewn. Depending on the type/size of the button, metal or heavy buttons
• must be secured with a wrapping around the shank
• Minimum Manufacturing Requirements for jersey & knit products
• Buttonholes must all uncut threads on the buttons and shanks must be carefully trimmed, 3-5 mm is accepted
• Buttonholes must be suitable for fabric/product/wash
• Buttonholes must be sewn on/placed according to the order instructions have no sharp edges.
• Buttonholes must be colour fast

Sop for Button Hole

AIM: Buttonhole-size regulation to avoid being opened easily when they are bigger than the size of buttons and being opened hard when they are smaller than the size of buttons.

SCOPE: This memorandum covers shirts which are manufactured abroad or within the country.

RESPONSIBLE PARTIES:  

Garment Technologist / Chief Pattern Cutters:

• Garment Technologists and Chief Pattern Cutters fill in “Risk Analysis Form for the styles that they find risky and write “It has been approved technically; it should be followed carefully in pre-production samples and production,” during technical meetings.
• They are responsible for stating the reference number of the related memorandum in the sewing instructions as outlined in Memorandum
• Merchandiser: Sending the related memorandum to Manufacturers.

APPLICATION: Preventing buttonholes in shirts from being applied smaller / bigger than buttons: Buttonholes should be appr. 0,1cm bigger than the size of shirt buttons.

Conclusion:

This type of Button Hole Sewing Machine is not use for different purpose. It is very popular in the garments industries.