Fusing Machine
The fusing machine has always been a bit of a problem because there are many different types of fusing. The fusing cannot be too thin, as the bone in collar will be visible especially on white materials. The rolling space should not measure more than a few Millimeters
Factories do use different bias tolerances for skin, patch and collar band. In Bangladesh, Peter Kwong and Mr Turan made some experiments with the following bias tolerances as follows: skin 35% patch 23% band 9%. The sample collars from Bangladesh look good. We, in Brussels, received many different collars from Different factories like: China factory, Gin-Win, Bangladesh factories
- Weekly production planning status report of Fusing Machine
- Fabric inspection report
- No fusing, pressing, button stitch/buttonhole, snap button attach machine, bartack and body form available in the sample room.
- Hard pattern, knitting chart, board pattern for pressing without pattern maker/checker’s name, signature, seal & date. Customer and order number to be mentioned as well.
- Garment & sweater panel wash test records and reference sample found inconsistent with production records.
- Daily production report
- Trims/ Accessories inspection report.
- Inventory record for fabrics & accessories.
- Cutting inspection report spreading market, 100% cut panel etc.
- Fusing check report and the log book of calibration
- Fabrics, accessories, trims and components in sample room are not kept on shelves or racks or pallets with cover. Storage of samples, trims & accessories is not appropriate and not tidy. Poor housekeeping.
- Insufficient lighting found in sample room. Should
- Calibration records for each fusing machine missing and date of calibration and expiry date not mentioned on machine.
- Air conditioning non purified water kept in the fusing room & the water is dropping down into into a bucket near where fused parts are kept
- Production file to should contain the following: all kinds of test reports, approved trim card, sample comments, make sheet, spec, pre-production meeting record, trial cut record, first output comments etc.
- Fabric needs to be sent to interlining supplier to obtain data sheet (temperature/pressure/timing) on fusing conditions during sampling stage.
- Inline/ End line inspection report
- Daily measurement report
- Final inspection (Final audit, Pre final ) report
- Third party audit report for last year
- Snap pull test record
- Fabric relaxation record-Knits (with date & time)
- All measuring must be calibrated.
Other Issue
| Horizontal Splits . | |
| Horizontal Splits . | |
| Sample Machines . | |
| Sample Machines . | |
| Sample Machines . | |
| Dryers/Extractors | Dryers . |
| Dryers . | |
| Extractors . | |
| Extractors: . | |
| Boilers | Boiler 750 ton/each |
| Type of boiler fuel |
| Types of Machines | |
| Washers | Open Pockets . |
| Open Pockets . | |
| Open Pockets . | |
| Horizontal Splits . | |
| Horizontal Splits . | |
| Horizontal Splits . | |
| Sample Machines . | |
| Sample Machines . | |
| Sample Machines . | |
| Dryers/Extractors | Dryers . |
| Dryers . | |
| Extractors . | |
| Extractors: . | |
| Boilers | Boiler 750 ton/each |
| Type of boiler fuel |
| Types | |
| Wet Processing | Cellulose enzyme wash |
| Stone wash | |
| Desize rinse | |
| Garment dyeing (direct/reactive dye) | |
| Dip dye | |
| Sandblasting | Number of blasting nuzzles |
| Blasting Materials | Aluminum oxide |
| Garnet | |
| Hand brushing | Tonello/hand brushing machine |
| Machines for shirt/jacket brush | |
| Machines for paint brush | |
| Specialty finishes | Rubber ball wash |
| Tinting (direct/reactive dyestuffs) | |
| Pattern dyeing/blasting | |
| Coating |
Types of Fusing
Thickness of fusing:
We would like to advise the thickness grams per M2 of the fusing as shown in list below. The list will help all parties Brussels buying, Mondial and the factories.
The list:
The list below: Fusing thickness has been selected and put together for shirts made in regular poplin material 40’s 50’s yarn . Please do use one step thinner fusing machine when the thickness of the material is thicker than poplin Like (dobby weave/oxford). I would say one step
thinner on thicker material as follows: If the fusing on poplin is 3630 use 3620 this would then be for the 1st and 2nd layer and collar band too.
Cuff fusing:
We can always use the same fusing like 1st layer of the collar
Placket fusing:
This fusing can be on a roll, the fashion is not thick and stiff plackets. The placket needs to be soft and smooth.
Starting point:
The list bellow is an attempt to start putting some information together and can be changed at all times for better results
| Name | Bone yes/no | -X-piece yes/no | 1st layer grams-m2 | 2nd layer grams-m2 | Collar band Grams-m2 | Cuff grams-m2 | |
| Shark wide spread | Inside | No | w3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Kent wide spread | Inside | yes | w3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or w3640/170gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Button down | no | yes | w3610/85gr | w3620/108gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Alfie | yes | yes | w3620/108gr | w3630/146gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Cosmo | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Dean (soft collar thick stitching) | no | yes | w3610/85gr | w3620/108gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Executive –1mm | remov | yes | 3620/108gr | 3630/146 | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Executive –5mm | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170 | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Wing (special collar) | no | no | 3610/80gr | 3010/80 | none | ||
| Zaza | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Button down small | no | yes | 3610/80gr | 109 | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Rafca | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Button down casual | no | yes | 3610/80gr | w3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Gyorgy -B-D | no | yes | 3610/80gr | w3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Kent-2 | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165 or 3640/170 | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Cut away | inside | no | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Double button | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Emilio | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| New Alfie | inside | yes | 3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Double button cut away | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Pharell -B-D | no | yes | 3010/80gr | 3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| H-B Long tip | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Cut away top store | inside | No | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Kent Westbury | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Kent Canda | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Vario (special collar) | inside | none | 3040r | No band | 3040r | ||
| Kent 9138 | inside | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | ||
| Button under | no | w3620/108gr | 145 | ? | Same as 1st layer collar | ||
| Cut away Westbury | inside | No | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Emilio | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Kent Italy | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Mac coy | inside | No X piece | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Helmut | inside | No X piece | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Christian | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Hans | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Kent-1 | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Vincent triple button | no | yes | 3010/80gr | w3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | ||
| Celio | inside | w3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | 3630/146gr | |||
| Kent 1055 | inside | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| New H-B | inside | No X piece | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Collar 1895 | no | No X piece | w3610/85gr | w3620/108gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Doc- Holiday | no | No X piece | w3610/85gr | w3620/108gr | w3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Father | no | No piece | 3010/80gr | w3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Gable | yes | yes | 3630/146gr | Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Raf | no | No piece | 3010/80gr | w3620/108gr | 3630/146gr | Same as 1st layer collar | |
| Double Sherlock | 3010/80gr | 3010/80gr | 3630/146gr | w3620/108gr |
Conclusion
Fusing Machine -The function of the placket fusing is only to reinforce the buttonhole and help the stitching of the placket edge.
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