Back board: spot, cutting, thickness, measurement pproblem.
Carton: measurement, spot, printing, cutting, flies quality & quantity, shipping mark problem etc.
Excess Fabric and Accessories
Considering the importance and suggestions of the merchandisers’ management has come to a decision regarding excess fabric and accessories issue.
Regarding excess fabric issue suggestion from the merchandiser was, after every order execution store will report about the left over fabric status to the concerned merchandiser along with the authority. But management feels as merchandisers are already overloaded with work, they should not collect the information from the store. Rather they themselves will maintain the report after each order execution. It will be easier for them to do so as they have all the information from order placing to order execution.
If merchandisers find some left over fabric after the order execution, maximum two months they can keep the fabric with them with written confirmation to store for reusing. After these period store will go for normal procedure.
For changing style of any order if any excess fabric is issued from the buyers’ side, it also should be informed to store.
For the sample order the current system of keeping 11 yards of fabric (uncommon fabric) will be same.
Regarding second garments it is decided that store would not keep them. They would be sending for sale. But before sanding for sale it must be ensured that all main logo / levels should be removed from the garment.
Regarding cone, interlining etc. it is decided to follow same procedure as fabrics.
For maintaining the cones of thread properly, one more person is required in store
For an order of 1400 yards of interlining was demanded whereas the store already had 4100 yards of interlining
Accessories (hanger, clear gum etc.) which could be reused any time should be stored properly to minimize the cost.
Finally, we all should be careful to avoid extra cost for the betterment of the company.
Some accessories name
Fabric
Button (chalk)
Stone button
Carton
Sewing thread
Care label 100% cotton
Main label
Size label
Main label
Care label
Size label
Care label 97%, 3%
Size label
Mr. Enayet, CTO, Rock Accessories Ltd, Chittagoang
A standard textile should have very conscious about safe chemical handling procedure & application. There is a well-established and well-functioning management team to take all necessary decisions regarding chemicals/dyes. Chemical Management is a vital issue for all textile concerns as product outcome & stakeholders’ well-being are directly associated with it. Our respective factory Chemical General oversee the total chemical/dyes management process. Whenever we select any chemical for our intended use, at first we assess the impacts of that chemicals brought about in the environment. As we use chemical in different sections of our factory. So the main objectives of this policy is to ensure proper use of Chemical, ensure environmental protection, reduce of waste & make more awareness regarding the Health & Safety issues of workers.
Safe Chemical Handling Instruction
The chemical must be kept in a safe marked place with proper labeling and sign.
Smoking and use of any fire items is strictly prohibited hear the storage area of the chemical.
Fire extinguisher must be kept near to the storage place of chemical.
Protective hand gloves, goggles, apron musk must be used before handling of chemical.
During handling of chemical, it should be observed carefully that chemical does not come out to the floor.
After handling liquid chemical, the floor and the top of the container should be cleaned immediately with dry sponge or fabric to remove the chemical and it should be closed appropriately and also in dry chemical.
The chemical empty container or carton should not be cut for pouring the residuals or any other reason.
The empty container or carton bags should not be used in the factory for any other purpose and not be given to worker.
Handling of chemical is strictly prohibited other than the trained assigned persons.
The chemical safety management of the factory must be made aware about the chemicals and its perilous consequences.
Chemical Handling Procedure and Policy
We are very much concerned about the health & safety of the direct user group as well as the well –being of the environment. Our main objective is regarding chemical management is to use safe chemicals/dyes which are very effective but have lesser impact in the environment. Most of our chemicals are imported abiding national/global rules & regulations. We always look for newer innovations in chemical application through our continuous Alternative Chemical Assessment. If we ever find any safer/less hazardous chemical, we try our level best to switch to it. For example, We use Avitera SE – the dyestuff of Huntsman and it is marketed by Huntsman under the logo of “Save the Earth”. We have standard safe chemical handling procedure and purchase policy.
From chemicals purchase to disposal, we take good care of the chemical relevant issues to ensure safe chemical application & handling and to avoid evitable accidents. We impart training among workers, store-loaders and other personnel who are associated with safe chemical handling procedure. Store department takes all necessary preparations before chemical containing vehicles enter into our factory premises. Trained loaders wear proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) and unload chemicals/dyes from the vehicles. Store keeper & supervisors oversee the unloading & loading chemicals/dyes.
Safe Chemical Handling
Chemicals are loaded/stored in the Storage according to their specific type & property. We follow chemical compatibility chart as much as possible to ensure safe chemical storage. Chemicals are stacked up to certain height keeping consideration of ventilation and for further safety. General entrance into chemical storage area is restricted to avoid unexpected situations.
MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) is attached to the chemical container to spread knowledge about chemicals handlers/users. We partially use secondary containment where necessary to control spillage and avoid accident. Individual chemicals are kept in individual compartment for better distribution and application as well as accident prevention. Each compartment has its Chemical label with associated hazard symbol. These compartments are fine engineered and connected to ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) through internal drainage system to avoid spillage & to control emergency situations.
The store keepers and supervisors are well trained so that they can supervise the people working under them. They directly supervise the safe chemical handling procedure in the store and distribution center. The store –loaders use suitable PPE when they work in the store/distribution center.
Empty drums are cleaned & washed thoroughly. They are kept in certain place refrained from direct sunlight/rain water. Afterwards theses empty drums are returned to drum purchasers/suppliers. At first, we pull off the chemical label and then clean the drum/container properly. Then they are stored under a cover shed as per instructions of our local authority.
Worers or machine operators collect chemicals as per dyeing requisition. Awareness training regarding safe chemical handling, PPE, Safety precautionary, Abstracted MSDS is provided among these workers to increase their knowledge level so that they can work with chemicals safely. It is mandatory for them to apply PPE whenever they collect chemicals from distribution center and during chemical operation in the work place. Eating/smoking in the work place is strictly forbidden for any one. This rule is for their own goodness. Since drinking water is provided from the factory, they cannot leave any empty water bottle, chemical/dyes pot, container/bucket without exact label. It helps them to avoid accidents/malfunctions.Moreover, our work place is monitored time to time by compliance manager, compliance officers to check whether the workers are complying with our factory rules & regulations.
As a part of a modern knit composite factory we are responsible for coloration of fabric. So dyestuff is used frequently here. We never use any banded dyestuff here which may cause health hazards for our manpower or our valuable consumer of our finished products. For the user safety we make a modern dyes/chemical sub store for easy and safe usage area which has a sufficient ventilation system and lighting system as sell as easy operating system. Despite of this precaution a general guideline for handling or usage of dyestuff is given bellow.
Our management team is very much active & eager to comply with any global/local changes in chemical applications, innovations and concerned rules/regulations. We can try our level best to reach ourselves at the latest update point of chemical management since our chemical management process is overseen by experts who are working in the textile trade with success for a long time. Actually, their continuous efforts made us possible to establish a safe chemical handling environment in our concerned factories. As a successful performer in the field of Textile and garment industry in Bangladesh is always emphasizes on establishing Environment Control Management System in factory premise to ensure chemical protection in the process of using chemical, raw materials, manufacturing products and discharge chemical wastage’s. Textile is firmly committed to comply all the relative obligations to ensure safety condition in the factory campus.
The management has developed certain systematic program for the use of chemicals to prevent any chemical pollution for the safety of worker, staff as well as the total environmental system.The chemical, which we use in your plant, is as follows:
Accessories Plant : The authority of Accessories factories. declares that it will ensure a nice work environment in all areas of the factory in accordance with compliance & Bangladesh Labor law. The management is firmly committed to comply all the relative obligations to ensure Safely Chemical use, Transportation, Storage & Disposal.
Ready made Garments: Thinner, Solve, Jet Powder, and Wheel Powder for spot removing. Only authorized persons use this entire chemical by following proper using guideline so that it can not create any harmful condition for human body and for environment.UN authorized persons are strictly restricted to use of any kind of chemical for avoiding all kind of chemical hazards situation.
Classification of Chemical:
Chemical is classified in two types. One is Hazardous & another is Non hazardous.
Hazardous Chemical: Hazardous chemical is such kinds of chemical which contains more poisonous elements such as Acid, Caustic soda, Hydrogen per oxide etc. We have to know about the risk to Use, Transportation & Storage such kinds of chemical & have to use PPE.
Non Hazardous Chemical: Non Hazardous chemical is such kinds of chemical which contains less poisonous elements such as Solt, uria etc. These chemicals are less dangerous for environment & human beings. We have to know about the risk to Use, Transportation & Storage such kinds of chemical & have to use PPE .
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is such a document which gives us important health & Safety data regarding the use of chemical. We found 15/16 important data in a Material Safety Data Sheet such as Name of Chemical, Harmful things, Danger Sign, Name of company, First Aid procedure, Fire safety Procedure, Storage procedure & Name of PPE etc. We have to read the safety information & command more attentively before Use, Transportation & Storage chemical & have to maintain.
Identify & Labeling: We have to preserve level in all permanent & temporary chemical jars which contain name of chemical, Danger sign & address of producer. What ever, we can avoid risk if we read the safety information & command more attentively before Use, Transportation & Storage the chemical .
Use of Chemicals: We have to read the safety information & command more attentively before Use, Transportation & Storage safe chemical handling procedure. We know that some safe chemical handling procedure are more poisonous elements which are harmful for environment &also harmful for eyes & skin of human being. So we can avoid risk by using danger sign or safety sign such as: Flammable, Explosive, Oxidizing, Corrosive, Harmful, Toxic, Environmental hazard etc.
Use of PPE: Personal Protective Equipment is such kind of dress or equipment which will reduce accidental or sickness risk of a people. We have to use PPE according to the working condition such as: Use Cotton Mask to safe from dust, Use Goggles to safe eyes, Use helmet to safe head, Use Ear Plug/Ear Muffs to safe Ear. On the other hand use Respiratory mask, Apron, Hand Gloves & Gum boot before Use, Transportation & Storage the chemical. We already provided a huge amount of PPE in all sections & if found shortage of PPE, it is needed to inform the responsible Supervisor of each section or need to inform Compliance Division.
Storage: We have to Use, Transportation & Store the chemical by ensuring environmental risk & Health & safety issues of workers. It is needed to maintain safe chemical handling procedure information (MSDS) in the storage area. Also need to segregates the hazardous & non hazardous Chemicals & We have to preserve level in each chemical jars that contain name of chemical, danger sign & address of producer. Without level we don’t store any container or drum.
Conclusion:
We have to know & maintain safe chemical handling procedure and policy to use chemical which is harmful for environment, eyes, skin, & heart. After finish the task, we have to remove the pollute dress quickly & need to wash hand & mouth properly.
To ensure that only an acceptable quality of fabric and childrenswear accessories are used for producing garments and proper quantity of shipment is received from the supplier. All incoming fabric and accessories of Auto Garments Limited.Store Manager and QC Manager is responsible for fabric and accessories inspection and proper reporting to the Director (Marketing & QC) or Merchandiser. Merchandiser/Director (Marketing & QC) is responsible for informing and negotiating with buyer regarding any non-conformity issues. Director (Marketing & QC) and Merchandiser is responsible for giving disposition decision.
Procedure
Store Manager will receive incoming fabric and accessories and store them with YELLOW MARKED BOARD signifying the QUARANTINE status.
Store Officer will check the received fabric with the reported length, color and type of fabric with the stated shipment document quantity and the actual order quantity.
The findings will be recorded in Fabric Receive report (No. F/ST/10) and Accessories Receive Report (F/ST/01) as applicable. Discrepancy will be notified to the Director using Non-Conforming Material/Product Report (F/QC/20)
QC Inspector (Fabric) will check 10% of received fabric (shall include all colors and dyelots received) for quality using the fabric inspection machine. He will identity any defect, hole or stain and shade variation in the fabric and make calculation as given in the following page.
If the initial Inspection on 10% fabric fails, an additional 15% of fabric shall be checked. If the second check also shows high fault point, the shipment shall be either rejected or checked for 100%.
If point grade is 28 or below, the fabric is accepted.
The maximum penalty for any running yard (36″ X fabric width) must not be more than 4 points
If result is more then 28 points the Director (Marketing & QC) or the Merchandiser shall be informed and the Fabric identified with ORANGE color board representing non-conforming status.
The fabric is also visually checked for shading defects in side by side and length during fabric inspection and by cutting 6″ full width of fabric from each roll.
The defect and inspection result is recorded in Pre-Cutting Fabric Inspection Report (Form No. F/QC/17). Any non-conformity and abnormal shading will be notified using Non-Conforming Material/Product Report (F/QC/20). Roll wise Color continuity card is maintained for identification of shade variations.
Director (Marketing and QC)/Merchandiser shall make required communication with buyer and supplier for action to be taken. Director (Marketing & QC) shall review all decisions taken for the reported non-conformities.
During the fabric inspection if the yardage of any roll is reported more or less by the Fabric Inspection Machine than the one specified in the roll, the roll will be measured manually using measurement tapes. Only calibrated measurement tapes shall be used.
The result of manual measurement will be accepted as final. Any major discrepancy in roll length shall be notified to the Director (Marketing & QC) or the respective Merchandiser for that buyer.
For washable garments, Fabric shrinkage and color fastness is tested by QC inspector (Fabric) on roll of fabric. A sample is cut into 15 sq. centimeters block and washed. After wash it is rechecked for shrinkage. Fastness of color/color bleed is checked after ironing he washed sample and comparing with the buyer approved sample. The record shall be made in Fabric Shrinkage and Color Fastness test Report (Form no. F/QC/18)
Store Officer (Accessories) shall receive all accessories and check the received quantity for color wise and size wise break-up against suppliers commercial invoice/Packing list/work order & challan.
Accessories carton will be weighted and checked against the stated weight.
If the actual weight is found in accordance to the weight mentioned in shipping documents, packages will be opened for counting.
If the weight is not found proper store Manager will be notified of the findings and the packet will not be opened.
Store In-charge will record the non-conformity in Non-Conforming Material/Product Report (F/QC/20) and inform Director (Marketing and QC) or respective Merchandiser. Director 9Marketing & QC) / Merchandiser will give decision on that packet/lot of accessories after communicating with the supplier.
10% of Accessories of each type of every style shall be physically checked as per criteria specified by the buyer. The applicable sample size, inspection criteria and test method is available in Reference for Accessories Checking. The record (Pass/Fail) shall be maintained in Accessories Receive report (Form no. F/ST/01)
Non-Conforming Material/Product Report (F/QC/20) will be used for recording of any non-conformity identified. Director (Marketing & QC) or respective merchandiser will be notified of any non-conformity in quality of accessories.
If the accessories are found bearing acceptable quality and stated quantity, these will be stored in proper place in the stores with Identification and Quality passed status.
Non-conforming Accessories shall be identified with “ORANGE” board representing non-conforming status. After decision from the Director (Marketing and QC) or the respective Merchandiser, Rejected accessories shall be stored with “RED” board showing Rejected status.
Accessories Requirements
There should be no sharp edges that could result in injury to the wearer.
For childrenswear, all non-detachable components such as buttons, zips, sliders, studs, buckles and cords must withstand a specified pull force, which is customer specific. Buyer will mention relevant requirements in our make sheets.
All components for childrenswear must be either:
Too large to pass through a cylinder 32mm in diameter, or
Small enough to pass straight through the cylinder.
In other words, they must not stick in the cylinder and thus be capable of sticking in a child’s throat.
Generally, it states that any materials used must be designed and manufactured to meet the requirements of hygiene and cleanliness, avoiding risk of infection, sickness or contamination. Materials must in particular be visually clean and free from contamination.
Components must not rust or corrode, so be steel free as well as nickel & lead free.
All components used on childrenswear must be non-ferrous.
All zips must have no scratch top-stops.
Open-end zips must have top stops to prevent the slider being pulled off when the garment is unfastened.
Autolock sliders for zips must be used for all principle fastening applications for all garments.
With regard to childrenswear specifically:
Metal/Claw top or bottom stops must not be used. Plastic top stops must be used whenever available in the country of manufacture.
Coil zips must not be used on garments intended for children under 36 months.
On closed end coil zips, plastic bottom stops must be used whenever possible.
Metal zips are not suitable for children under 36 months.
A placket is required behind all zips on garments for children aged 36 months or under.
Pullers can be metal provided they meet all criteria and are non-ferrous and nickel free.
All zippers must have plastic moulded stoppers top and bottom.
Buttons must conform to all aspects of British Standard and must not contain toxic elements in excess of the limits.
All buttons and other trims must be lockstitch attached with a minimum of 10 stitches.
Any handsewing required must be discussed with the technical department buyer prior to production start.
Buttons and any other components must be able to withstand a pull test force of 90N, so thread used and the design of the button must support the required security of the attachment of the button.
Buttons made from glass, wood, mother of pearl, two-part or fabric covered buttons must not be used for childrenswear unless agreed with the customer.
All buckles whether sewn on or riveted must be checked for sharp edges or burrs before attached.
PU belts must be phthalate free, sides to be painted and ends rounded
Any metal used must be strong enough not to bend or break, in accordance with BS5665.
Eyelets & Metal fasteners must be cleanly clenched over to prevent sharp edges.
Prong studs must be at least 15 lignes (9.53mm) in size.
Stud buttons have arrow head fitment. Staple/prong attachments are unacceptable.
Waste punched from the eyelet hole must be removed and the item checked thoroughly prior to packing, to ensure that no waste remains.
Eyelets & Metal fasteners must be applied securely (with backing washer) according to the instructions of a signed data sheet and using the correct & recommended machinery (for press fastener attachment ratchet machines should be used). For childrenswear in particular, foot pressure machinery is not allowed.
Roll setting eyelets (opposed to split setting eyelets) must be used on all products.
All machines must be checked with sample pieces 2 – 4 hourly to ensure correct pinch is achieved.
Facings should be made wide enough to accommodate the press fastener easily.
They should not be positioned over seams or stitching.
They should not be applied to a single layer of fabric. On knitted fabrics woven interlinings should be used as a backing.
On garment wash items buttons/press fasteners etc. must only be attached after the washing process.
Garments should be turned inside out before attaching press fasteners. Then turned the correct way at inspection to ensure no loose press fasteners remain.
Supervisors and inspectors must have been trained on how to carry out daily random checks and document those (i.e. using a micrometer to check foundation depths on garments and a Vernier caliper to check correct pinch).
All accessories to be BHT free and of at least 100 gauge thickness.
All polybags must have at least 2 punched through airholes (so 4 holes in total) at least 150mm apart, of a ventilation area of 300mm per hole, to avoid accidental suffocation of children.
All polybags to carry a “child safety” warning. Please see the required wording below. Font size to be a minimum of 14 pt.
100% Polyester thread must be used on products with low-flammability requirements.
Monofilament thread must not be used in the production of auto garments
Harsh or rough threads must not be used where they will come into direct contact with the skin.
Where the back of a stitch, with heavy construction, may cause irritation to skin on any age, there must be a non-woven fusible interlining applied to prevent irritation
Chain stitch must not be used with heavy thread counts to reduce abrasion
For external decorative features, bulk thread double high twist thread products should be used
Cable ties must be no longer/wider than 14 cm x 4mm.
The standard procedure of garment trims for the flammability of clothing textiles established three classes of requirements for classifying textiles. It includes, CLASS 1: Normal Flammability .This class includes textiles that meet minimum requirements of the standard and have no unusual burning characteristics. CLASS 2: Intermediate Flammability. This class includes textiles that meet the minimum requirements of the standard and have flammability characteristics between normal and rapid and intense burning. CLASS 3: Rapid and intense Burning. This class includes textiles that are considered dangerously flammable and are unsuitable for clothing because of their rapid and intense burning.
CLASS 1: In compliance with Federal regulation, we follow the standard procedure,
All plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content that weighs less than 3.0 ounces/Sq.yd must be tested for flammability in every colorway and print.
All raised surface fabrics, containing any amount (%) of non-exempt fibres such as cotton, ramie, linen, rayon, acetate, modal, silk etc.,must also be tested for every colorway and print.
If a color is supplied by the multiple sources, testing is required on each color from, every source.
Lead surface coatings and as a substrate material: All coatings on children’s product must be < 90ppm for lead content, for each surface that can be scraped. In addition, per CPSIA Act, all children’s products must meet the assessable lead requirement of <300ppm of lead on all substrate materials, except those listed below:
Natural textile fibers.
Manufactured textile fibers.
Other plant-derived and animal derived materials.
Heavy Metal Content: In accordance with ASTM F-693-07, all children’s toys must be tested for soluble heavy metals in surface coatings. Customer requirements are satisfied by our following criteria
Antimony 60ppm
Arsenic 25ppm
Barium 1000ppm
Cadmium 75ppm
Chromium 60ppm
Lead 90ppm
Mercury 60ppm
Selenium 500ppm
Nickel content: All metal components for all size range/ age groups only when in direct and prolonged contact with skin, must meet standards for nickel content, nickel free. Accessory items and garment trims not in direct and prolonged contact with the skin are exempted from this requirement, i.e. belt buckles. However we prefer every accessory to be nickel free.
Phthalates Children’s products of all ages , containing/ made partially or completely of any plasticized materials i.e. PVC, vinyl, etc., may contain only <0.1% in each part of DEHP, DBP , BBP, DNP , DIDP and DNOP.
Sharp Points and Edges :For all children’s 0-20, no sharp points or edges may exist on any product.
Small Parts: For sizes 0-4T, no detachment at 17lbs for 10 sec and for sizes 4 and above , 15 lbs for 10 sec is required to fulfill the standards.
Pompom and tassels: Regardless of age, no glue is allowed to attach pompoms and tassels onto apparel and apparel accessories. In addition to the above requirements , for sizes 0-4T apparel and childrenswear accessories the pompom/ tassel must meet the attachments strength requirement of 17lbs.for 10 sec, and be no smaller than 1 ¾ in diameter in the dry stage or larger than 5” for a tassel.
Blanket stitch/ Whip stitch: For all sizes from 0-4T and accessories with a blanket or whip stitch must be tacked or knotted every 8” of blanket or whip stitching thread. Line tack is to be perpendicular to the edge of the garment. Knotting is to be done on the inside/non-fashion side of the garment or accessory.
Real Fur or Faux Fur: Real fur or faux fur can present an aspiration and/or chocking hazard. For size 0-12 months, it is recommended that real fur or faux fur not be used anywhere on the garment especially around the head and neck area. If real fur or faux is used ,pile length should be limited to ½”. For sizes over 12 months to 4T , pile length should be limited to a maximum of 21/2”
Draw Strings , Circular cord and Ties: In order to prevent the children from strangling or becoming entangled due to draw strings or draw cords, we have requirements of ASTM F1816 “Standard specification for drawstrings on children’s upper wear and CPSC guidelines for drawstrings on children’s upper outerwear. It includes Drawstring, circular Draw cord, tie, bow tie, strap , lacing, toggles , Aglets, Hood parts etc.,
Hook and Loop Fasteners: All hook and loop fasteners on children’s garment must be rounded to prevent sharp edges and scratching. They can be die cut or hand trimmed .
Zippers: Metal claw top/bottom Zippers are not allowed in garments where the claw is exposed. All open end zippers must have a safety top stop to prevent falling off .All sliders must be locking type. For children’s sizes 0-4T, all decorative (3 or more part zipper) must meet the minimum tab twist requirement of 4lbs, regardless of size. We ensure all these standards are being followed.
Buttons: All buttons meet the following requirements
Parameter Two hole 2 or 4 hole 2 or 4 hole
For linge <14 14-21 >21
Size
Center
Thickness 0.0625” 0.0625” 0.0750”
For children’s sizes, 0-4T, all buttons meet the following requirements,
All buttons, functional or decorative , must be attached using a lockstitch buttoning m/c. Hand sewn buttons or chain stitch are not permitted.
For four hole- configuration buttons, the lock stitch m/c must pass through all four holes in a cross- stitch pattern.
Functional button= Must use four hole button
Decorative button = May use two hole or four hole button.
Snap Fasteners: No prongs are to be protruding. Snaps are not be applied on seams or stitches , which could cause either to break. Only semi or fully automatic pneumatic or electric press recommended by snap supplier are used. Manual application is not permitted. Snaps are always be attached on even layers of fabric. They go through a minimum of two plys of fabric by a backing.
Monofilament Threads: For apparel of all children’s sizes 0-20, the use of monofilament threads to construct any product is prohibited.
Stone Washed Garment: For sizes 0-4T – use of pumice stones are only permitted if the pockets are basted closed prior to washing. For children sizes 4T and above, and adults, pumice stones are permitted ,provided all pockets are free of stones at the point of sale.
Zipper Guards : For all zipper types e.g. brass, nickel , coil and aluminum. Children’s sizes 0-4T – Zipper guards are mandatory on all snug fitting garments to prevent laceration. Children’s sizes 0-20 – Zipper guards are highly recommended on all apparel regardless of fit
Attachment of Fragile Trims : These are materials such as beads, sequins, rhinestones, glitter, gems, diamantes etc. For children’s wear fragile garment trims may not be used. Children’s sizes 12 months- 4T: Sequins may be used as long as it is applied by machine,2 threads/4 stitches and use of over the back embroidery cover on the garment. However beads, rhinestones, glitter , gems, diamantes , etc. are not allowed for children’s sizes from 12-4T
For the UK all fabric buttons must conform to all aspects of BS 4162. In order to ensure buttons are securely attached to garments a minimum pull force of 90 Newtons (9.17 kg) is required. 1 Newton = 0.101971621298 kg. Independent laboratory and factory in house button pull test is required. Please note that any independent laboratory testing will be actioned by David Howard UK. The factory is responsible for carrying out their own in house button pull test, as per this guideline. All fabric buttons must comply with REACH EC 1907/2006 Annex 17 No. 27. For the UK buttons must not resemble food and must comply with the Food Imitations (Safety) Regulations 1989 SI No. 1291.
Buttons must be tested for colour fastness to water and garment durability.
Wood/cork/leather/mother of pearl (shell)/glass or other non-durable buttons must not be used on children’s clothing.
Buttons must not have rough or sharp edges.
Buttons must be free from rust and contamination.
Covered buttons used on garments for children less than 36 months must be secured with a stitch through the button onto the garment.
Knitted covered buttons – plastic buttons to be lockstitched on and crochet around the button to give the effect. Must pass a 90N button pull test
Button Pull Test Machine Sop
We do the pull test of the button normal or snap according to the buyer requirement.If the requirement is not present we maintain our procedure.
At first we make the mock up and attach the button onit if it is passing then we attach the button on the garments
We maintain snap button pull test required is 90/n that means 9.17 kg and height presser is 100/n that means 10.19 kg =9.8
We spent 10 to 15 second for button pull test.
If normal button is 4 eye then the pull test presser need 90/n if it is two button then pull test presser need 50n(that means 5.10kg)
Now we are doing hourly button pull test and we keep the record pass or fail and concern people put the signature on it
Childrenswear Only
Buttons on children’s garments must not contain toxic elements in excess of the limits specified in EN 71:3.
Jewelled or 2 part fabric buttons are not permitted on childrenswear.
Toggle buttons must be assessed for shape, catchment and attachment hazards.
Buttons can only be fabric covered if 1 piece.
Fabric Buttons Attach
All fabric buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine. Minimum of 10 stitches. For George orders a slight tonal thread must be used in the bobbin for easy identification of lockstitch buttons. Please ensure that you use the colour thread you intend to use in bulk on the pre-production samples to obtain approval of the tonal thread used prior to commencing with bulk.
Fabric Buttons Attach
Buttons must not be handstitched or chainstitched.
When attaching a button the following factors should be considered in order to guarantee a secure attachment: Also refer to BS 7907:2007.
Thread quality and ticket size
Number of stitches
Button quality
Distance between holes on button (pull stress distribution)
Fabric type
All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch fabric buttons attach machine:
2-hole buttons must have 14-16 stitches
4-hole buttons must have 24-26 stitches
4-hole buttons must be stitched through each hole.
Only core spun polyester sewing thread to be used when attaching buttons.
Buttons must be attached through a secure foundation of fabric, typically at least 2 plies of fabric with a suitable interlining if required in order to achieve secure attachment.
Please ensure the needle in the lockstitch button attach machine is changed daily when the machine is in constant use – in order to prevent damage to the fabric.
For garments that require a wash, it is recommended that buttons are attached after washing to avoid damage to either the button or the garment.
Spare buttons must only be used on adult wear and must be securely lockstitch attached to the garment.
No fabric buttons markings must be visible on production garments.
Buttonhole
Lockstitch buttonhole are required. Exceptions to this must be discussed with David Howard UK.
Buttonhole openings must be made through a secure foundation of fabric, typically no less than 2 plies of fabric with a suitable interlining where necessary.
Buttonhole openings must be 2mm larger than the button for ease and security of fastening.
No buttonhole marking must be visible on production garments.
Knife blades should be changed regularly to ensure they are sharp and correctly set at all times.
Inspections & In-House Testing
Inline Inspections must be performed for due diligence purposes for all childrenswear (under 16).
Factory in house testing must be carried out to confirm this.
In-house tests must be carried out for each order/style (Mens- and Childrenswear).
All factories must have a pull test machine.
The SOP of the button pull testing must be displayed near the machine.
The machines must be calibrated every year, with certifications available. A sticker with date of calibration and expiry date must be displayed on the machine. Calibration certificate should be displayed near the machine.
The button pull test results must be recorded on a process control chart, clearly stating the machine number and ident.
Every line/machine needs to be checked every 2 hours. The check can be carried out with a mock up (same style/same construction fabric) rather than an actual bulk garment to avoid shortages to the order. The mock up must be made under bulk conditions using bulk machines of the relevant line.
The first check must be at the beginning of the shift.
All records must be kept for 5 years.
A minimum of 5 samples must be checked on each machine.
Buttons checked must cover all different locations of attachment, e.g. placket, collar, cuff, spare buttons, epaulettes etc., as different locations can have different results and different reasons in case of a fail.
All tested samples must be destroyed or marked and kept in such a way that they cannot get mixed into bulk production by accident.
If the needle or sewing thread breaks a pull test is required.
If the bobbin runs out during the operation, stop production and check the stock.
All records must be available for David Howard or any auditor to audit.
If the results are below 90N do not carry on with production, but stop and check stock. For this you must be able to identify the stock that was done in the last 2 hours since the last successful check.
3rd Party Button Pull Test
An independent test report is required on all button pulls. This will be arranged for by David Howard UK.
The button pull test report is valid for one season only ( 6 months)
(If the factory, sewing thread, button or fabric changes a new test report is required at the independent lab.)
5 garments must be send to the lab to be tested (as per BS7907:2007). Only complete garments should be sent and not mock ups, so the lab can clearly state which button has been tested on which part of the garment.
The following table shows examples of which buttons need a test report:
Button size
Button colour
Fabric colour
Fabric thickness
Thread colour
Thread quality
No. of button pulls required
same
same
same
same
same
same
1
same
different
same
same
same
same
1
same
different
different
same
same
same
1 per fabric colour
different
different
same
same
same
same
1 per type of button
same
same
same
different
same
same
1 per fabric thickness
different
same
same
same
same
same
1 per button size
Rouleau loops must be machine stitched only. Elasticated Rouleau Loops must pass a 90N pull test performed by a nominated lab. All records must be kept for a minimum of 5 years.
Self fabric loops do not require button pull test.
This In House Test Method of bra sliders, bra hooks and bra rings describes the method of test in order to determine the tensile strength. These are: bra rings and sliders used to adjust the length of the strap, rings used to attach the strap to the bra and hooks used on detachable bra straps. The correct numbers of test specimens are to be prepared and tested as specified within this test method in order to achieve a performance assessment of the product/fabric as described within the scope. Bara hooks, Bra rings and sliders are the garments accessories
Equipment
Constant rate of extension tensile testing instrument with a minimum load capacity of 500N (50kg). 100% Polyester or 100% cotton tape in widths 10mm, 15mm 20mm or 25mm as appropriate to the internal width of the component. Impact resistant safety glasses or goggles.
Conditioning
The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% Relative Humidity (RH) +/- 2% and 20°C +/- 2°C for a minimum of 4 hours. All tests should also be carried out in this atmosphere.
Health & Safety
Safety glasses should be worn when carrying out this test and care should be taken when loading the sample into the jaws.
Test Procedure
The test speed is 200mm per minute.
Flat rubber faced clamps are used on the front and rear to give a minimum surface area of 25mm x 25mm when the clamps are closed.
Set the load range to 50Kg.
Set the gauge length as appropriate to the test specimens and slack mount in the jaws.
Set the cross head in action and take the sample to break.
Assessment/Results Of Tested Specimens
Report the test method number and title.
Report the individual results for each component in Newtons.
If the results exceed 500N, then state this.
If the tape breaks, then report the result as exceeds the force at which the tape broke.
In some instances the bra hooks may distort to the extent that the tape slides off. If this happens report:
Bra hooks distorted and allowed the strap to slide off and the force at which this occurred.
GARMENT DEFECT GUIDELINES
The following list defines the types of manufacturing defects for which the garment supplier is responsible:
FABRIC
Holes,dropped stitches
Permanent creases
Slub and knots
Shaded or not ( within specified shade range )
Soil / oil spots
Skewed,bowed or biased fabric
Dye spots,streaks or smears
Pilling
Poor hand ( too hard or too soft)
Not cut on grain
Nap not as specified
Knitted in,foreign or colored thread (off color fly)
Snags, pulls in fabric
Mismatched laid or stripe
Weak fabric
BODY MEASUREMENT
Exceeding sewing tolerances
SEWING
Stitches per cms
Unauthorized stitches
Wrong stitches
Open seams
Raw edges
Run-offs
Needle holes
Stitch tension
Weak stitches due to loose stitches
Chainstitch raveling due to skipped stitches
needle or looper / bobin thread size too heavy or too light for proper stitch formation
Beaded stitching
Drifting stitch line
Foreign objects imbedded in seams or fabric
Mismatched seams (yoke stitching,etc )
Roped seam
Blind stitching
Any omitted sewing operation
COMPONENTS
Defective components
Defects of assembly (example;crushed snaps)
Any components not cut in accordance with directional (grain) lines on pattern or specified requirements ( such as stripe or pattern matching )
Sagging,twisted or bulging sleeves or legs
Hem or sleeve too short caused by incorrect lining size or positioning
Lining too large or too small
BARTACKS / BUTTONHOLES
Any missing bartack/ buttonholes
Any bartack/buttonhole not of specified length
Any bartack/ buttonholes that misplaced,not serving intended purpose or inappropriate for type of fabric or garment use
Any unsecured bartack
Any bartack/ buttonhole with loose stitch tension
Any bartack the width of which is more than 2mm wider than specified
Any bartack/buttonhole in wrong direction
SEAMS
Seam repair – sufficiently obvious
Seam twisted,puckered pleated or wavy
Seam crossover matching
Any part of garment or fabric caught in an unrelated operation or stitching
Thread color does not match color specified on approved spec.document
Thread break sor ends of stitching not securely back tacked
Irregular gauge of stitching
Stitches skipped or broken
Raw edges ,unfinished hems or seams
Run-offs on edge of topstitching
Stay or holding stitching not removed
Inappropriate seam or stitch type ,not as specified in the Spec Pack
Vertical stripe alignment
Horizontal stripe /plaid alignment
Gathers or shirring
Even from side to side of the garment
No visible basting stich
Spirality (torque,twisted side seams,plackets )
Uneven inseam length
Uneven sleeve length
Looper thread / bobbin thread must match fabric or topstitching color unless otherwise specified
Any line of stitching omitted or not beginning or ending where specified
GARMENT
Pockets even,sewn on straight,properly aligned,no raw edges peeking out
Pocket fabric other than specified affecting the appearance or service
Linings not falling straight and twisting in the sleeve
Armhole curves not smooth
Check symmetry of garment
Cuffs even
Elastic case stitching even
Check that the stitch construction /stitch type or fabric construction matches approved sample
Check for excessive lint trapped in the fabric
Sweater weight-using a sweater scale ,make sure that the weights of the sweaters are + / – 5% of the specified weight unless otherwise listed in the dossier
Verify neck stretch as specified in the dossier
Full fashion marks on sweaters correctly placed
No wavy zipper fronts
No wavy button fronts
No surface damage ,needle chew,feed dog chew,or other abrasion
BUTTONS AND SNAPS
Missing,broken,defective,misplaced or insecurely sewn
Button not securely affixed or improperly stitched down
Button corroded or oxidized
Button incorrect size
Snap fasteners,broken,bent,cracked,improperly clinched or failing to effect a secure closure or to open freely
Snap components corroded or oxidized
Buttons and snap fasteners shoud be Nickel free.
HOOKS AND EYES AND LOOP TAPE
Metal damaged or corroded or oxidized,affecting function
Not securely affixed
Misplaced,causing bulge,twist,distortion or pucker
Defective
Shoud be Nickel free.
Loop length too short or too long
Missing components
ZIPPERS
Incorrect length of fastener or pull
Not sewn properly
Missing pull
Missing top or bottom stop
Does not operate smoothly through range of length
Teeth or pull corroded or oxidized
Shoud be Nickel free.
DRAWCORD
Not attached or inserted correctly
Incorrect finished length
End of drawcord not finished,knotted or otherwise treated to prevent pulling back into tunnel
Eyelet missing or misplaced
BINDING
Not securely caught in fabric,causing binding to pull away from fabric
Too tight, causing puckering or pleating
More than two splices in one binding operation
Badly twisted
Not matching the rest of the garment
Incorrect width of finished binding
More than one shade of material in joined bias strips
Binding of raw edges omitted
BUCKLES / SUSPENDER LOOP
Broken,rough or sharp edges
Coating omitted or thickness of coating / plating less than specified
Wrong color or material type
Incorrect size or type
Oxidized or corroded
Misplaced,Not attached as specified
BELT LOOPS
Omitted or misplaced
Not fused or parasealed
Set at an angle
Not securely attached
Length too short,constitching waistband
Width not as specified or poorly shaped
Length too long causing gap of material to extend above waistband
Turn-under of loop not trimmed
Bottom end of loop not securely caught in waist seam
Center back loop not on center seam
Tacking not extending full width of loop
DARTS
Not properly tapered causing bulge,twist or fullness
Not identitical in size
Positioned incorrectly or uneven
SHOULDER PADS
Shoulder pads should be sewn on securely
Pads should be evenly positioned
Not correct color,size or type
PRESSING
Burns,scorching shine marks,if napped,look for an undesirable crushed appearance
Pressed in correctly,especially lapels,collars,cuffs,hems and permanent creases according to the standards in the spec pack.
Permanent crease line should extend the full length of the garment.
Seams should be press open
Look for pressed-in stains,spots or soil
Sweaters must not be pressed out to size
LABELS
Make sure that the labels are sewn on straight and securely
No monofilament thread
No heat – cut labels with sharp edges
Must meet requirements
THREADS
Untrimmed threads longer than 0,7cms should be considered a defect
Unauthorized substitution in size,color, type, thickness or servic
ODOR
Odor or irritation to eye or skin from the products is considered a defect
SOIL
Any oil or foreign material stains
Preparation Of Test Specimens/Materials
Six of each type of component within the garment are to be tested. Thread 2 pieces of the appropriate sized tape through the component as follows:
Bra Ring: Thread the tape through to form 2 loops on opposite sides of the ring.
Bra sliders: Thread 2 pieces of tape through the central post of the bra sliders and then open them out to form 2 loops on either side of the bra sliders.
Bra Hooks: Thread the tape through to form a loop through the closed side of the bra hooks and another piece to form a loop through the open side of the bra hooks.
