Abrasion and Pilling tester machine is used to determine the resistance of the textiles fabric after rubbing against a standard abradant (a special woven worsted fabric) that is assessed by visual comparison after predetermined no. of cycles.
Cork cylinder Liner about 146mm wide by 452mm long cut from 1.5mm thick flat surface .
Air Injection Device to give 14-21 kpa (2-3psi)air pressure in each chamber
Adhesive White all Purpose for sealing edges specimen
Vacuum cleaner
Cotton Sliver 4301tex fine American
A set of five photographs, 105-mm square (4.13 in.), numbered 1 to 5 illustrating varying degrees of pilling from “very severe pilling” to “no pilling” such as Adjunct The photos should have a dull matte finish and Be of the same size as the tested specimen.
Pre-Treatment
Samples may be washed or dry cleaned before cutting the test specimens, using conditions appropriate for the fabric end use or conditions agreed upon by all interested parties.
ICI PILLING TESTER (2)
No of Specimen/Specimen Size
Sample = 4 Pcs (105mm×105mm) 45° Diagonally
Testing Procedure
Seal the edges of all specimens to a width not exceeding 3 mm (.13 in.) on the face of the fabric with adhesive. Hang the specimens on racks until dry, and in any case for at least 2 h
After every hour of machine running time, remove theliner and clean the impeller by wiping with a cloth wetted in a solution of detergent and water. Allow the chamber to dry
Evaluation
Turn on the light of the viewing cabinet , Place the tested specimen and Original(Left Tested & Right Original) one onto the viewing cabinet , Using the viewing apparatus and option selected from and either suitable fabric or photographic standards subjectively rate the appearance of the face (as indicated by the markings and after the respective tumbling times) of each specimen, using the following scale 5—no pilling 4—slight pilling 3—moderate pilling 2—severe pilling 1—very severe pilling Average the ratings for the three specimens from each laboratory sampling unit and the average for the lot.Check the pilled specimens for non uniformity of pilling
Reporting
Number Of Complete Washing & Drying Cycle ,
Number Of Revolution
Average Grade Numerical
Detail of Any Deviation
Test Name : Martindale Pilling
Scope To determine of the resistance to pilling and surface change of textile fabric using a modified Martindale Method. Apparatus Martindale Abrasion Tester. Specimen Holder Guide Plate/ Plastic Ring. Pilling Specimen Mounting Weight Auxiliary device for Specimen Mounting Viewing Cabinet Loading Pieces
Pre Treatment Unless Otherwise agreed Launder or Dry-clean The Sample Using a Method agreed between the interested parties.
Specimen Size
Sample = 3 Pair’s of 140±mm diameter Alternative size 150cm² Felt = 90 ±1mm diameter for Top Felt = 140 ±1mm diameter for Top
Washing and Drying Procedure : As Agreed between the interested parties Testing Procedure Clean The Martindale abrasion tester fit one specimen onto the mounting table with one felt of 140±1mm diameter beneath the specimen. and other specimen of set mount on top specimen holder with 90±1mm diameter felt .and set the desired revolution Start the machine . Evaluation
Turn on the light of the viewing cabinet, Place the tested specimen and Original (Left Tested & Right Original) one onto the viewing cabinet, Viewing distance may be 30cm-50cm . Grade each specimen according to Table 1, Half grade may be given, More than 1 observer grade each specimen and average them.
Reporting
Washing And Drying Procedure, Number Of Complete Washing & Drying Cycle, Number Of Revolution Average Grade Numerical Detail of Any Deviation
Test Name : ICI PILLING TEST
ICI PILLING TEST
Scope To determine of the resistance to pilling and surface change of textile fabric.
Unless Otherwise agreed Launder or Dry-clean The Sample Using a Method agreed between the interested parties. Condition 16 Hrs (Temperature 20°C ± 2° C, Relative humidity 65% ± 4% Specimen Size 125×125mm (Length & Width)
Specimen Preparation Sew The Two Specimen Lengthwise (Face side inside) at the 12 mm From The Edge of Specimen And Two Width Wise Direction. Turn Inside Out and cut 6mm of each end to remove sewing distortion .Mount 4 specimen with Mounting Zig so that the specimen are an equal distance from the Polyurethane Tube. Apply PVC Tape around the each of the cut end So that The Tape fixes onto the tube and 6 mm leave from the end of tube.
Testing Procedure
Clean The Box with Vacuum Cleaner , Insert four specimen mounted tube into the box , Set the desired revolution and run the machine
Evaluation
Turn on the light of the viewing cabinet, Place the tested specimen and Original (Left Tested & Right Original) one onto the viewing cabinet , Viewing distance may be 30cm-50cm . Grade each specimen according to Table 1, Half grade may be given, More than 1 observer grade each specimen and average them .
Reporting
Washing And Drying Procedure , Number Of Complete Washing & Drying Cycle , Number Of Revolution Average Grade Numerical Detail of Any Deviation
PILLING RESISTANCE (POLAR FLEECE ONLY)
1 SCOPE: This In House Test Method describes the method of test in order to determine the resistance of a knitted or woven fabric to pilling or change in surface appearance.
2. PRINCIPLE The correct number of test specimens are to be prepared and tested as specified within this test method in order to achieve a performance assessment of the product/fabric as described within the scope. 3. EQUIPMENT: 3.1 WASCATOR Washing Machine 3.2 Drying Racks 3.3 Viewing cabinet from which external light is excluded. 4. CONDITIONING
The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% Relative Humidity (RH) +/- 2% and 20°C +/- 2°C for a minimum of 16 hours. All tests should also be carried out in this atmosphere. (after wash/dry process – before grading)
5. HEALTH & SAFETY
Not applicable.
6. PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS/MATERIALS
Not applicable. 7. TEST PROCEDURE
7.1 Wash a fabric sample (in accordance with the Care Label instructions), Retain some original fabric for final comparison. 7.2 Dry flat on plastic mesh trays. 8. ASSESSMENT/RESULTS OF TESTED SPECIMENS 8.1 Mount the tested specimen with piece of untested fabric. 8.2 Grade the sample in the viewing cabinet, rate the sample according to the following table of assessment: (Half grades may be given). Grade Descriptive Method 5 No Visual Change 4 Slight Surface Fuzzing 3 Moderate Surface change/matting or isolated pills 2 Significant surface change and/or matting 1 Distinct surface change and/or matting.
9. REPORTING OF RESULTS 9.1 The washing process 9.2 The average grade from two assessors to the nearest ½ grade.
This is the end report of Abrasion and Pilling Tester
Written By - Jony Ahmed, Lab Technologist, Osaka Japan
A standardized fabric light box or textile light box is used for visual assessments to maintain consistency in light source, viewing area and presentation of sample.All shade assessment and colour matching must be carried out in a purpose built colour matching cabinet named Fabric light box or textile light box which can be purchased from several manufacturers in various sizes. The most popular example being “Verivide”. To reduce the subjective element of visual colour assessment, the viewing environment must be controlled.
All fabric light box or textile light box must be fitted with the following light sources:
Textile Light Box which use filters to provide light source should not be used. The following maintenance requirements must be observed:
The tubes must be replaced after 2000 hours of use and should be cleaned frequently. Please keep a record of all replacement dates and check the counter regularly.
Cabinets must be kept clean, in good repair and free of non-essential items such as documents and fabric samples.
The cabinet must be painted regularly (at least annually) internally with “Crown Colour Plan 14.40D Munsell N6.5”
Cabinets must be positioned to avoid ingress of direct outside light into the cabinet. Alternatively the cabinet front may be surrounded by a black curtain to block out stray light.
An alternative to the cabinet could be a purpose built room, which totally blocks out outside light, is lit with the correct light sources to an adequate level, is completely painted with the correct colour and is kept free of non-essential items.
Guideline for Fabric Light Box or Textile Light Box
For all orders please follow the below guideline:
You need a close colour match in D65 and a reasonable match in TL84. (D65 is the most important light source for checking). Both light sources must be used separately.
The Tungsten light (F) should be used to check for colour flaring, this is particularly important for colours made from yellow and red dye. The UV light is used to pick up the presence of optical brightening agents and fluorescent dyestuffs and is particularly useful for checking whites.
Only one light source should be used at any given time, it is not acceptable to use two different light sources simultaneously.
Example of Spectra Light III Color Viewing Booth, Type D412F
The Spectra Light color viewing booth uses our patented filtered tungsten halogen light source to give you the world’s most accurate simulation of natural daylight. It features six different levels of lighting: Daylight (D75, D65 or D50), Illuminant A (home lighting), Horizon, Ultraviolet, and dual fluorescent sources (choice of Cool White Fluorescent, TL84 or U30). SpectraLight features SmartLogic technology for accelerated throughput with faster color approvals. Using the booth’s digital display, you can easily program a sequence of different light sources for hands-free viewing, maximizing operator efficiency and productivity.
Specification of lab light box 1
Model– light source
Brand: Tilo, Origin: China
Light Source: na
D-65 ( Verivide UK) : na or 01 set
TL-84 Verivide, UK : na or 01 set
CWF Sylvania : 01 set
Inca A Crompton, UK : na or 01 set
UV Sylvania : na or 01 set
TL-83 Philips, Holland : 01 set
D65 international standard artificial daylight(Artificial Daylight) Color temperature: 6500K Power: 18WTL84 Europe, Japan, China store light Color temperature: 4000K Power: 18WF family hotel lights, color reference light source Color temperature: 2700K Power: 40WUV-UV light source (Ultra-Violet) Wavelength: 365nm Power: 18W
Specification of lab light box 2
Model- CAC 60
Fitted with below light options
D65 ~ Artificial Daylight
TL84 ~ 840P15
F ~ Tungsten Filament Light
UV ~ Ultra Violet Light
Interior Color-Grey 5574
Brand: Verivide, Origin: UK.
Maintenance of light box (Lamp Change)
Light box: The light box must have neutral grey walls with a non-shiny surface on the inside. The grey tone should be similar to Munsell N7, N5 or Grey 5574(previously called matt emulsion smokey pine 14-40d).
To reduce the subjective element of visual colour assessment, the viewing environment must be controlled.
A standardized lighting cabinet is used for visual assessments to maintain consistency in light source, viewing area and presentation of sample.
Buyer Wise:
H&M: The lamps should be changed after 1300 hours use or after 12 months, whichever is the sooner.
TESCO: Only use lamps supplied by the original manufacturer. Replace the lamps according to the user’s manual or every 4000 hours. Service/calibrate the cabinet on an annual basis and keep a service log for future inspection.
M&S: All Tubes or bulbs, except ultra violet tubes, must be replaced after 2000 hours or six month, whichever is the sooner.
Auto: The lamps should be changed after 1300 hours use or after 12 months, whichever is the sooner if needed.
Visual Assessment – All Lab Dips & Non-Accredited Suppliers
Lighting Cabinets and Standard Illuminants
To reduce the subjective element of visual colour assessment, the viewing
environment must be controlled.
A standardised lighting cabinet is used for visual assessments to maintain
consistency in light source, viewing area and presentation of sample.
The following cabinets are approved by TESCO:
Verivide CAC60, CAC120 or CAC150
Datacolor CMB Color Matcher 2028 / 2540
Gretag Macbeth Spectralight 111
Only use lamps supplied by the original manufacturer. Replace the lamps
according to the user’s manual or every 4000 hours. Service/calibrate the
cabinet on an annual basis and keep a service log for future inspection.
The required light sources for TESCO are as follows:
Light Source Use For Required Result
Primary Light Source D65
Artificial Daylight
All swatches Good match
Secondary Light Source TL84
General Store Light
All swatches Good match
For Checking only Tungsten (F)
General Domestic Light
To check colour constancy Do not use for
matching
For Checking only Ultra Violet (UV) To check for Optical
Brighteners/Fluorescent dyes
Do not use for
Matching
GUIDELINE TO USING THE LIGHT CABINET (LIGHT BOX)
All shade assessment and colour matching must be carried out in a purpose built colour matching cabinet (light box), which can be purchased from several manufacturers in various sizes. The most popular example being “Verivide”.
All cabinets must be fitted with the following light sources:
Cabinets which use filters to provide light source should not be used.
The following maintenance requirements must be observed:
The tubes must be replaced after 2000 hours of use and should be cleaned frequently. Please keep a record of all replacement dates and check the counter regularly.
Cabinets must be kept clean, in good repair and free of non-essential items such as documents and fabric samples.
The cabinet must be painted regularly (at least annually) internally with “Crown Colour Plan 14.40D Munsell N6.5”
Cabinets must be positioned to avoid ingress of direct outside light into the cabinet. Alternatively the cabinet front may be surrounded by a black curtain to block out stray light.
An alternative to the cabinet could be a purpose built room, which totally blocks out outside light, is lit with the correct light sources to an adequate level, is completely painted with the correct colour and is kept free of non-essential items.
For all orders please follow the below guideline:
You need a close colour match in D65 and a reasonable match in TL84. (D65 is the most important light source for checking).
Both light sources must be used separately.
The Tungsten light (F) should be used to check for colour flaring, this is particularly important for colours made from yellow and red dye.
The UV light is used to pick up the presence of optical brightening agents and fluorescent dyestuffs and is particularly useful for checking whites.
Only one light source should be used at any given time, it is not acceptable to use two different light sources simultaneously.
Colour samples should not look noticeably different in different lights.
For further guidelines on how to assess colour and shading please see the Buyer Fabric Inspection Guideline.
Examplor of Color Matching Light Box
Viewing cavity of color matching light box is 1260mm wide x 545mm high x 590 deep, with membrane switch panel, hour meter and electronic ballast control. Specify lamp configuration from catalog. Colour samples should not look noticeably different in different lights. For further guidelines for color matching light box on how to assess colour and shading please see more about Fabric Light Box or Textile Light Box.
Muhammad Farayaz, Lab Technologist, Amnist Textile Group of Company, Eygpt
The digital pipette controller of Sartorius are the best companion for daily liquid handling in textile laboratories, where the accuracy of the results as well as ergonomics are critical.
This Tensile tester done to measure the Tensile strength tester property of any material. The equipment is called tensile strenght tester. Take a strip of 12” x 1” from testing material and aligned it properly between two iron rods. Before moving further, make sure that t.s. Tensile tester scale needle is on zero. Press the start button and both iron rods move into reverse direction. Where this strip breaks, take the reading of meter scale. This reading comes in k.g. So for lbs multiply it with 2.2. So derive figure will be Tensile strength tester for testing material. This strength requirement varies from buyer to buyer.
Purpose of Tensile Strength Tester:
This Tensile test covers the grab test procedures for determining the breaking strength and elongation of most textile fabrics. This test is not recommended for knitted fabrics or other textile fabric which have high stretch. To determine the maximum force required to rupture (break) a woven fabric. This machine is also used for Bra hook and Bra Rings
Method we use: for usa / canada: astmd 5034
Principle of Tensile Tester
The centre part of the test specimen is held by grips of a specific dimension and extended at a constant rate until it ruptures (breaks). The force at which this occurs is then recorded. The correct number of test specimens are to be prepared and tested as specified within this test method in order to achieve a performance assessment of the product/fabric as described within the scope. Nb: a 2.5mm seam opening is used where the warp and weft threads are contrasting colours. A blank dyeing is prepared in the presence of uv-screening agents. The improvement in extensibility and Tensile strength tester is determined following exposure to light (fakra 3x)
Equipment
Cnstant rate of extension tensile testing instrument with the following:
Tensile Strength Tester
Load cell with a maximum of 1,000n capacity
50mm/minute constant rate of extension
Distance between upper and lower sets of grips is 100 mm
Pneumatic rubber faced grips (rear 75 x 25mm and 25 x 25mm front)
For pc operated machines, appropriate software (to bs en iso 13934 part 2;1999 )
Printer capability
Calibrated metal ruler
Template
Equipment 1:
Constant rate of extension tensile testing instrument with a minimum load capacity of 500n (50kg).
50mm ruler
Lockstitch sewing machine
Ticket 75 or 80 100% polyester sewing thread
Size 90 metric needle.
Equipment 2:
Machine name: Lea strength tester.
Model number:
Machine origin: England
Brand name: GOODBRAND & CO. LTD
Function: To measure the lea strength and C.S.P of textiles.
Description: The special features include:
Double screw rod mechanism to ensure uniform and parallel movement of lower jaw to test lea strength accurately
Instrument is floor mounted with rugged steel body
Self aligned upper and lower jaws for precision measurement of breaking strength without any parallax errors. Auto return of lower jaw after completion of test
Testing range 0 to 500lbs (0 to250kgs), traverse speed 300mm/min
Provision to interface with Statex yarn count balance to get CSP value directly in display and printout
Equipment 3:
Machine name: Single yarn strength tester.
Brand name: BRANCA IAEALAIR
Function: To determine the tensile properties of single yarn.
Description: Tensile strength and elongation are the two prime characteristics of most of the raw materials, whether they are metals, or non metals such as foam, rubber, leather, textiles, plastic, paper or finished products such as rods, ropes, yarns, belts etc. This two properties often play amajor role in determining the suitability of any raw materials for specified application. It is therefore, of utmost importance to determine these characteristics accuratel
Specimen preparation
Prepare specimens, randomly selected from the fabric so that they do not contain the same warp and weft threads.
Cut 3 rectangular specimens parallel to the warp direction and 3 rectangular specimens parallel to the weft direction.
Each specimen should measure 150mm in length and 100mm in width
Place a direction line parallel to the warp on each specimen prior to removing from the fabric
Note: the un seamed sample from Tensile test method 4.13 can be used for this test (this sample measures 100mm x 180).on each specimen, carefully draw a guide line at a distance of 38mm from one of the long edges running the full length of the specimen.
Conditioning: condition the specimens for a minimum of 4 hours in a conditioned atmosphere of 20 ± 2°c and 65 ± 2% rh before testing. Carry out the test in this atmosphere. The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% relative humidity (rh) +/- 2% and 20°c +/- 2°c for a minimum of 4 hours. All tests should also be carried out in this atmosphere.
Tensile Test procedure
Using an automatic constant rate of extension tensile tester
The programme is automatic. The test speed is 50mm per minute.
Use the 75mm x 25mm rubber faced grip on the rear and 25mm x 25mmm grip on the front.
With the correct grips in place set the distance between upper and lower sets of grips to 100mm, this should be checked using a calibrated metal ruler
Select the correct programme and input the appropriate machine settings and fabric details etc.
Fix the Tensile test specimen centrally in the upper grips, so that the 38mm line drawn on the specimen coincides with one edge of the grips.
Close the upper grips.
Avoiding any pretension, adjust the specimen along the guide line into the lower grips.
Close the lower grips
Set the cross head in motion.
The maximum force at which the fabric ruptures (breaks) will be recorded
Repeat the above procedure for the remaining specimens.
Note: any break which occurs within 5mm of the clamping line of the grips should be reported as a grip break . If the grip break falls below the lowest normal break results then it should be disregarded and further samples tested. If it falls above the lowest normal break result, then it can be included
Tensile Test Procedure 1
Substrate
Pa 66 yarn (the yarn should not be too fine and may therefore have to be plied).
Uv-screening agent
Additives
0, 0.5, 1, 2 %
2% ammonium sulphate
1 % albegal sw
Dyeing apparatus
Labomat, ahiba, zeltex vistacolor or callebaut
Liquor ratio
20 : 1, de-ionized water
Method
Batchwise exhaustion for 60 min at 98°c
Assessment
Light fastness Tensile test
Fakra 3x in compliance with din 75202
Determination of extensibility and tensile strength
These determinations are performed in the textile testing physics laboratory.
Test report: using the adidas group standard report format:report the average of the 3 results for each direction tested.
This in house test method describes the method of test in order to determine the ability of a woven fabric to resist yarn slippage.
Preparation of test specimens/materials
Indicate the face of the fabric. Use an f.
Avoid fabric within 50mm of selvedge.
The finished specimen size is 100mm x 350mm. Prepare five specimens with the 100mm dimension parallel to the length (warp), this will produce a weft tensile and warp way seam and five specimens with the 100mm dimension parallel to the width (weft), this will produce a warp tensile and a weft way seam.
Prepare the specimens so that they do not contain the same set of warp and weft threads.
Fray down the 100mm edge on each specimen. Place a direction line parallel to the length on each specimen.
Draw a fold line on each specimen on the reverse, 100mm from the frayed side.
Stitching the specimen
Use a test piece in the same fabric which must be folded in the same direction as the specimen to check that the number of stitches are 10 per 20mm using a 90 metric needle and ticker 75/80 sewing thread.
Check that the stitch is balanced at this stage, this means that the appearance of the stitching is the same on both sides. If the stitch is not balanced re-adjust the tensions.
Stitch the specimens 20mm from the fold line.
Trim the seam to 12mm exactly, measure from the centre of the stitching line.
Cut each specimen in half parallel to the seam to give 2 specimens of equal length. One with and one without a seam.
Test procedure: using an automatic constant rate of extension tensile tester
Th programme is automatic. The Tensile test speed is 100mm per minute.
Use the 75mm x 25mm rubber faced clamps on the rear jaws and the 25mm x 25mm rubber faced clamps on the front jaws, to give an area of 25mm x 25mm when the jaws are closed.
The correct jaws must be in place before going into the programme.
Set the gauge length to 75mm using a calibrated ruler. Then go into the appropriate programme.
Slack mount the specimens in the jaws, ensuring that they are central and straight, so not apply any tension above 0.1 units. This is shown on the force zero display.
Place the un-seamed specimen in the jaws first and then set the cross head in motion. When this has returned to zero, remove the specimen and place the seam specimen in the jaws, the seam should be midway between the jaws.
The un-seamed specimen Tensile strength tester will be recorded up to 500n (50kg). This is a 1” grab method tensile strength.
The seam opening of 5mm will be recorded at a specific load or if it is stronger than 20kg then this will be recorded. It will also be necessary to report the type of seam failure.
Test procedure: using a constant rate of extension tensile strength tester and chart recorder
The test speed is 100mm per minute.
Use the 75mm x 25mm rubber faced clamps on the rear jaws and the 25mm x 25mm rubber faced clamps on the front jaws, to give an area of 25mm x 25mm when the jaws are closed.
Set the load range to 500n (50kg).
Set the gauge length to 75mm using a calibrated ruler.
Set the graph to give a chart to cross head ratio of 5:1.
Mount the specimens in the jaws, ensuring that they are central and straight, do not apply any tension above 0.1 units.
Place the un-seamed specimen in the jaws first and the set of the cross head in motion. When this has returned to zero, remove the specimen and place the seamed specimen in the jaws, the seam should be midway between the jaws.
Assessment/results of tested specimens
For each pair of curves, accurately measure the distance between the curves at a load of 50n (0.5kg). This is to compensate for the initial straightening of the seamed test piece.
Add this distance to 25mm, (equal to a seam opening of 5mm) or (12.5mm equal to an opening of 2.5mm). This gives the figure for seam opening plus compensation.
Moving up the pair of curves, find the point on the horizontal axis, where the separation between the curves is equivalent to this distance, read off the load.
Reporting of results
Report the test method number and title.
Report the average of the 5 tensile strength results for each direction. If the results exceed 500n (50kg) then state this.
Report the average of the 5 seam opening results, by quoting the seam opening, either 2.5mm or 5mm and the load at which this occurred.
Also report if this is any seam breakdown, sewing thread breakage, fabric tearing at the jaws or fabric tearing generally.
If the results exceed 200n (20kg) report the seam opening of either 2.5mm or 5mm, as exceeds 20kg.
If the seam opening results vary by more than 10n (1kg) report the results individually.
If seam breakdown occurs at a lower load than the 5mm opening, then this should also be reported.
Conclusion
With elastomeric blends, Tensile test is necessary to record the tensile strength, the seam slippage and seam strength results in both direction.determination of improvement in extensibility and Tensile strength tester obtained with uv-screening agents
