Blind stitch sewing machine for blind stitching is a special type of sewing machine which is used in the garments industries to produce stitches is not seen on the face side of the fabric is called blindstitch sewing machine. Usually curved needle is used in this machine as it can penetrate in the fabric partially..
How to Blind Stitch Machine Works?
This machine is used for blind stitch hem and attaching the lining to the waistband. Blind sewing machine stitches represent high quality and perform equally well on light to heavy fabrics.The various problems to be checked are listed in the list of the defectsin . Apart from this audit system after every critical operation checkpoints are established, within a line of production, where 100% checking is done. Refer to the in line Inspection Report
Blind Stitch Sewing Machine
It works as presser foot and sewing machine repair facility is available. In the following this machine works-
Turn on the power switch of the motor.
Turn on the power switch of the control box.
Fold a fabric into two, insert it into the blind-hemming guide, and pull down the guide horizontally.
Raise the presser foot to set the fabric under it.
Lower the presser foot to start sewing.
Bling-hemming guide is fixed with the solenoid.
When the stepped part passes through the guide, the slide edge guide moves to the right to prevent off-stitches.
When coming the start point of sewing near the guide, push the knee switch to raise the blind-hemming guide.
Finish sewing.
Blind Stitching Sewing Machine with Parts:
Blind stitch sewing machine with parts is listed here –
The features of Blind Stitch Machine is described here shortly for better understanding about the machine-
Off-stitch prevention: Off-stitch can be prevented because this is stepped part detection type. When the stepped part at joint seam passes the blind-hemming guide, the sensor detects the stepped part and the slide edge guide moves to the right to prevent off-stitch.
Guide fix: table seam can be obtained and very beautiful sewing will result because the blind-hemming guide is fixed securely with the solenoid during sewing. Also when the stepped part of joint seam passes the blind-hemming guide and the sensor, the guide is fixed and the sensor detects the stepped part correctly.
Easy guide operation: The blind-hemming guide is raised by pressing the knee switch lightly and manual raising is unnecessary, and the beautiful sewing finish. When placing a fabric, the blind-hemming guide is free (no load), and placing of a fabric is easy.
Easy interchanging to plain sewing (with TC device only): When CH device swings out frontward and the lever of TC device moves to plain sewing direction, the tension changes from blind hemming to plain sewing and easy plain sewing is possible.
Easy cleaning: Swing-out type of CH device can be easy to clean the device.
More technical features are listed below-
High speed sewing up to a maximum of 40000 rpm
Clearance between needle and looper point machine which can be easily lever adjusted when changing the needle count.
Special type of sewing machine and very expensive design for blind stitching machine
Using this machine works?
Fabric penetration by the curved needle is partial.
Specification of Blind Stitch Machine:
Specifications of a sewing machine with stitches are specified here –
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category
Sewing
Machine Category
Stitch
Product Name
blind stitch machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
brother
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Group
Chain stitch (Intra looping)
Stitch per minute
2500
No of needle
1 needles
No of looper
1 looper
Seam class
Super imposed
Stitch class
100
Description
This machine is used for sewing machine stitches
Blind Stitch Sewing Machine Installation :
Before operating, ALWAYS turn the motor power switch OFF and check that the motor has already stopped. Install the control box at the right or left end on the back surface of the machine table, and the knee switch on the right or left side easy to operate. Refer to Fig. 3 to connect those connectors with the same color and shape, and the power cord to the control box.
Blind Stitch Sewing Machine Installation
To prevent something moving from hitting and tearing the cord, attach the cord to some place like the table legs. Be careful not to damage the cord. Unplug the motor power cord from the outlet when operating. Turn OFF the power switch on the control box.
Connecting power cord: If not different from standard, change the power cord and fuse. Connect the red and black cords to the terminals on the motor’s side of the power switch. The green cord is a ground wire. Connect it to the same screw to which the ground wire of the motor’s side is connected.
Power Cord
Precautions of Blind Stitch Sewing Machine :
Use always those fuses applicable to the capacity of the power voltage used. Even if fuses are the same size, their capacities can be different. Be sure to check printed capacities. Using inapplicable power cord or fuse can damage the machine.
Opening Front Cover:
When adjusting the looper, open the front cover as follows.
Slide the presser foot to the left.
Pull the part(1) of CH device frontward to swing out at 180° .
Slide the front cover to the right and tilt it frontward.
Interchange to Plain Sewing of Blind Stitch Machine:
Interchange to plain sewing as follows.
Interchange Blind Stitch Machine
Slide the presser foot to the left.
Pull the part (1)of CH device frontward to swing out at 180° . It is held with the solenoid holder fixing spring plate(2)
Set the lever of TC device in the direction “T”
Standard Adjustment of Hemming Operation:
Adjust the differential feeding amount depending on a fabric.
To set the blind-hemming edge guide as standard, align the left side of the slide edge guide with that of the needle.
Blind Stitch Adjustment
Loosen the adjusting lever (1)and turn the adjusting screw depending on the stitch depth.
To make the stitch deep, turn the adjusting screw (2)to the right.
To make the stitch shallow, turn the adjusting screw(2) to the left.
After setting the blind-hemming edge guide, fix the adjusting lever(1)
Adjustment of Hemming Operation
Make the standard height of the blind-hemming edge(3) 2 mm above the top of the cloth plate. Loosen the screw(4) to adjust the height to feed a heavy weight fabric smoothly.
Loosen the screw(5) and move the hemming positioner(6) right or left to adjust the hemming width.
Safety of Blind Stitch Machine:
This machine can only be used for the blind stich purpose. Other uses of this machine are not allowed. Any modification or conversion made on this machine must be conformed with the safety standards and regulations. Precaution is necessary. For the safety of operators and services persons, please don’t open the cover of any electronic control boxes of the motor or other devices and don’t touch any components inside to avoid electrical shock hazards. Please never operate this machine without belt cover, figure guard or any safety devices to avoid physical injury.
Conclusion:
This type of machine is not used for normal purpose of sewing machine stitches. But for making a complete garment their importance cannot be denied. So, Automatic Blind Stitch Sewing Machine very popular in the garments industries.
Juki, Janome, Elna, pfaff & Bernina developing button stitching sewing machine. Button stitching machine is a special type of machine which is used in garments industries to attach button so it is called button attaching machine. This type of machine works for stitching shirt buttons in a cycle and so these are also called simple auto machine. Button attaching machine is closely related with Button Hole Machine
Function of Juki Button Stitching Machine:
This machine is applied to the industries of clothing in attaching buttons. Specially used for attaching the polo shirt and woven shirt buttons. Sewing equipment is available in store house of Juki, Janome, Elna, pfaff & Bernina
Parts of Button Stitching Machine:
The general parts of this type of machine is listed below –
Pulley
Button clamp
Operation panel
SD card slot
Control box
Work clamp
Power switch
Eye guard
Side cover
Cone stand
Thread take up cover
Finger guard
Features of Shirt Buttons Stitching Machine:
The features of shirt buttons machine is specified here shortly –
It is a simple automatic m/c.
Button positioning can be automatic.
Sewing is according to the hole in button & may be cross or parallel.
Automatic feeding of the shirt buttons
Stitch type: lock stitch or chain stitch may used.
Button Attaching Machine
Specification of Button Attaching Machine:
Specification of Juki Button Attaching Machine is given below-
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category
Sewing
Machine Category
Button stitching Machine
Product Name
Button Attaching Machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
Juki
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Group
Lock stitch
Stitch per minute
1200-1500
Needle size
9,11,14,18,21
Thread per inch
Per pressure 54
Seam class
Super imposed
Description
Should be error free.
Safety for Juki Button Stitching Machine:
When using this machine basic safety precautions should always be followed for reducing the risk of fire , electric shock and personal injury, including the followings and other accidental issue. Read the instructions carefully before operating this product and save these instructions.
Be careful and do not place your fingers inside the machine when placing or lifting the machine head to avoid possible physical injuries.
Please turn off the power before tiliting the button in machine
For machine equipped servo motors do not produce noise while the machines at rest. Therefore please turn off the power of this machine to avoid possible accidents due to abrupt start of the machine
Never operate the button attaching sewing machine after the ground wire is removed to avoid electrical shock hazard.
Please turn the power switch off before connecting or disconnecting the power plug to prevent possible accidents due to electric shock or damaged electronic components.
Press Button/Eyelet:
Must be suitable for the fabric/ product/ treatment and wash
Must be correctly positioned, according to instructions
Must be securely attached through minimum two even layers of fabric/ fabric + interfacing
Must be colour fast
Must have no sharp edges
Button Attaching With Press Button:
Attachment of press buttons and eyelets
Press buttons and eyelets MUST be correctly attached, not too tight and not too loose.
Fabric, where press button will be applied, MUST be strong/thick enough. Double layers and woven interfacing MUST be used whenever needed to prevent press buttons and eyelets from destroying the fabric or from coming off.
Fabric where a press button or an eyelet is applied must have uniform thickness to prevent the coming off or malfunction of the press buttons.
Jeans Button/Rivet:
Must be suitable for the fabric/ product/ treatment and wash
Must be correctly positioned, according to the order specification
Must be securely attached through minimum two even layers of fabric/ fabric + interfacing
Must be colour fast
Must have no sharp edges
Button Attaching With Jeans Rivet:
Fabric MUST be strong/thick enough for the jeans buttons and rivets. Double layers,interfacing and/or plastic washer MUST be used whenever needed to prevent buttons from destroying the fabric or coming-off.
Buttons and rivets MUST be correctly attached, not too tight and not too loose.
Fabric where a jeans button or rivet is applied must have uniform thickness to prevent the coming off or malfunction.
Hook & bar/eye:
Must be suitable for the material/ product/ treatment and wash
Must have interfacing/ reinforcement to avoid broken or puckering fabric
Must be correctly positioned
Must be colour fast
Must have no sharp edges
Must be securely fastened
Must if handmade, be strong enough and have secured and trimmed thread end
Standard Operating Procedures for Sewn in Button Attachment:
Button Attachment is on of the most critical areas highlighted for Product Safety. There are more chances of hazards to occur during Button Attachment operation.Considering this, a proper ButtonAttachment Policy has to be documented and strictly followed.
Button Attachment Policy:
Make the mock up same as the production garments thickness & two times attached the button for button test.
Pull test should be follow morning & evening & keep the record.
Pull test should be follow for strength is 17 lbs during 10 sec
Before pull test need to ensure the machine calibration done & record should be kept.
Does factory perform pull test on graspable part (rivet, nail button, hook & bar ) before during the production (8 lbs for 10 sec)
All the metal type of button checked through metal detector before attached in the garments.
Each snap attachment machine is correctly adjusted as per snap fastener data sheet.
Actual record of results per machine are kept.
Lock Stitch Button Policy (Lock Stitch Button Attachment & Capacity log): Critical Areas of focus are:
Lock Stitch Button appearance and security of Button stitching.
An visual check is made by the operator and 100% check is made by the QC after buttons are sewn on garments.
The check must be done every 2 hour by inspecting 200 pieces.
Buttons are sewn with complete cross stitch pattern for 4-hole button.
Eye guard and Finger guard has to be checked for all machines.
Lock Stitch Button Policy (Bobbin Thread Attachment Tension Log): Critical Areas of focus are:
Ensure no is refilled with thread, perform the 1st button attachment on a piece of same fabric and interlining missing stitches or skip stitches Thread tension should be even.
When, Bobbin Case before starting actual production.
When bobbin thread in the bobbin case is depleted, the last buttonsewn from the depleted bobbin should always be removed from the garment.
The complete record must be done correctly according to procedures
Conclusion:
This type of button attaching machine cannot be used in normal purpose. But for making a complete garments their importance cannot be denied.
Lockstitch Sewing Machine -Double Needle of Pfaff and Bernina developed for garments industries. Double needle lock stitch sewing machine which produces stitches by interlacing of two threads is called double needle lock stitch machine. In this machine, there are two needles with the needle take up lever. It also contains two bobbins. For having two needles, there are two line of lock stitch in parallel. This machine produces durable stitches and is very popular in garment industries.
Function of Double Needle Sewing:
The double needle lockstitch is the tightest and most secure stitch which makes it a good choice for stitching the inseam of trousers. It also sews box pockets on safari jackets, light jeans and pyjamas and Suitable for sewing Shirts, Uniforms, Jeans and Women Underwear.
Lockstitch Sewing Machine
Sewing Machine Parts:
The sewing machine parts of double needle lock stitch is listed here.
Bobbin winder
Presser foot
Stitch length dial
Thread take cover
Belt cover
Lifting lever
Needle bar
Paddle
Reverse lever
Machine pulley
Cone stand
Finger guard
Specification of Double Needle Lockstitch Sewing Machine:
The specifications of a double needle lockstitch sewing machine is given below –
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category
Sewing
Machine Category
Pfaff Double needle sewing
Product Name
Pfaff Double Needle Sewing Machine
Product Model
Pfaff model
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
Pfaff
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Group
Lock stitch
Stitch per minute
4000-4500
Needle name
DP X 5
Thread per inch
5”
No of needle
2
No of Bobbin
2
Seam class
Super imposed
Stitch class
300
Description
Should be error free.
Features of the Machine with Needle Bar:
The features of the machine including needle bar is stated here-
Stitches are produced by interlocking.
It has two needles and two bobbins.
Lockstitch sewing machine is very fast
Bobbin, needle bar and bobbin case are present in this machine
Threads and needle bar are supplied from cone.
Double needle sewing facility
Safety for Double Needle Lockstitch Machine:
Please keep your hair, fingers and clothes away from the hand wheel, and motor while the machine is in operation, as well as never put anything near these parts, to prevent the risk of injuries by tangled into them.
Please never put your fingers under the needles or in the thread take up cover to prevent physical injuries when you turn on the power switch or operate the machine.
While the machine is in operation, the hook rotates at a high speed. Please keep your hands away from the area of needles to prevent any potential injury to your hands. In addition please make sure to turn off the power of the machine while changing needles.
Broken needle may injure finger, eye or any where of the body and to solve it Use PPE (Needle guard, eye guard etc.).
Broken Needle
Another problem is Machine belt pulley may cause any accident. And the solution is -Use pulley cover, machine belt cover & motor pulley cover during work time.
Machine belt pulley
Pfaff Lockstitch Sewing Machine vs Operator / Supervisor:
The floors may some lines each which makes the total count of the lines to 15 in the whole unit. Since, in Bangladesh the labor cost is very low, therefore there are a lot of helpers in the lines and the automation is limited because of the same reason. That’s why one Pfaff lockstitch sewing machine is operated by one operator
The labor cost is around Tk.2400 ($34.3 or Rs.1800) per month, for a skilled operator as compared to Rs.2700 ($60 or Tk.3600) per month in India. Therefore, the automation is substituted by the use of intensive labor and the number of helpers per line is tremendously very much than most of the lines in India.
There are supervisors for each line who look after the production of the line and the proper working by the operators, in a way, supervisor is a face between the middle level management and the operators. The supervisors also take care of any problems faced by the operators and bring it to the notice of the middle level management, if needed.
Every floor has a floor manager who is assisted in his work by a junior manager and it is their responsibility to look after the production on the entire floor. The supervisors submit their hourly reports to them. The line balancing on the change of any style is also the responsibility of the floor managers.
There is a single production manager for all the 3 floors, and the floor managers report to him. It is the production managers who sees that which style has to be worked on which floor and which line and when.
Double Needle Sewing Mc – Daily Maintenance:
Done by : Operators
Supervised by: Maintenance Personnel
Needle: Check whether the needle is bent or blunt or not. If it is bent or blunt change the needle and install it under the supervision of maintenance personnel.
Rotary hook: Clean the tail of thread, dust and lint in the rotary hook and bobbin case.
Lubrication: Lubricate the machine parts where necessary.
Time required: 10 minutes.
Cleaning the bobbin case and other possible parts:
Clean the lint, loose thread and other dirt from the shuttle of bobbin and bobbin case. Besides the table and other parts which cannot effect the setting must be cleaned.
Required time: 10 minute.
Double Needle Sewing Mc – Weekly Maintenance:
Done by : Maintenance Personnel
Supervised by: Maintenance Manager
Needle – Hook point timing: Check whether the needle – hook point timing is correct or not. If there lies miss-timing then adjust it.
The check points are
Needle – hook point clearance
The height of needle from its lowest position of upward stroke when the hook point reach at the center line of needle
At the same time the distance between the hook point and the top end of the needle eye.
Required time: 10 minute.
The clearance between bobbin case holder and bobbin case holder bracket:
Check the clearance between the bobbin case and bobbin case holder bracket (1-1.5mm). Make sure that the hook will not touch bobbin case holder bracket.
Required time: 5 minute.
Adjustment of the needle and feed timing:
Check whether the adjustment of the needle and feed-timing is correct or not. If not adjust it through adjusting the timing belt.
Required time: 5 minute.
Presser foot pressure: Check whether the pressure of presser foot is proper or not. If not adjust it by adjusting the distance between the bottom washer and top of pressure bar guide bracket. And the bottom of work clamp must be kept parallel to the top of the work.
Required time: 5 minute.
Thread take-up amount:Check the amount of the thread take-up stroke, clearance between needle thread and thread take-up lever guide (.5-1 mm). Make sure that it is not more than necessary.
Required time: 5 minute.
Needle & bobbin thread tension adjustment: Check whether the standard operating range of thread take-up spring is accurate or not (6-8 mm). The tension at appropriate operating range must be checked.
Required time: 5 minute.
Needle Bar installation: It must be remembered during needle installation that the long groove of the needle is on the left and tightened with the needle clamping screw. Adjust the needle clearance and lift amount.
Required time: 2 or 3 minute
Stitch Length: Check whether the stitch length is appropriate or not. If not , push the reverse feed lever halfway down, turn the dial until desired number align the pin at top and release the reverse feed lever.
It is remembered that the number, the longer the stitch length will be and the reverse sewing device is the automatic-resetting type.
Required time: 2 or 3 minute.
Needle Bar height: It is remembered that when the needle bar is in its lowest position the reference line on the must be at the lower end of the containing the needle bar. If it is not so, remove the needle plate, loosen the needle bar connecting stud clamping screw and adjust by raising or lowering the needle bar.
Required time: 5 minute.
Adjustment of Pressure on the material (fabric): The pressure on the material during sewing must be as weak as possible, but strong enough so that the material does not slip. Adjust the pressure through loosing the adjustment nut.
Required time: 5 minute.
Feed Dog Height: The standard height of the feed dog for sewing thin material is 0.8 mm, and for medium material is 1.00 mm and for thick material is 1.2 mm (when the stitch length is set to the maximum).
Adjust the feed dog height by loosening the screw when the feed dog is above the needle plate surface and move the feed lifting arm up and down.
Required time: 5 minute.
Feed dog angle: In order to prevent puckering, material from slipping the feed dog is to be raised or lowered downward at standard angle.
When the feed dog angle has been adjusted, check to confirm that the height of feed dog has not changed.
Required time: 5 minute.
Presser foot height:The standard height of the presser foot is 6 mm when the presser foot is raised with presser foot lifter lever. To adjust the presser foot height, loosen the nut of the adjustment screw and then the presser foot adjustment screw so that no pressure will be applied to the presser foot, then loosen the set screw and adjust the presser foot height by raising or lowering the presser bar.
Required time: 5 minute.
Double Needle Sewing Mc – Monthly Maintenance
Oil replacement and other interrelated checks:
Check lubricant or oil whether that is to replace.
Check bush leakage, oil seal leakage or age, vibration of oil and the flow of oil pump more or less than setting.
Check rubber cushion seats, four corners of machine tool groove on which oil pan stands.
Required time: 10 minute
Rotary hook
Check rotary hook wear whether it is need to replace.
Required time: 10 minute.
Presser foot canal
Check its canal wear. If necessary replace it.
Required time: 5 minute.
Conclusion:
Sewing is a dominant process in the garment making, and it is still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams. The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams, which combine the required standards of appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production. This Pfaff Lockstitch Sewing Machine is also known as plain stitch machine. Here different type sizes of needle can be used as requirement. It is very popular in the garment industries.
Feed of the arm machine is actually a chain stitch machine for chain stitch designs working with sew and stitch. It contains looper instead of bobbin. By this machine, multi thread chainstitch can be produced on garments. By this machine, stitch can be produced on heavy fabrics, like denim or jeans; it has opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics. Different sizes of needle and thread dresses should be used in this machine depending on the thickness of fabric, for light thickness fabrics needle size should be lower and for heavy thickness fabric, higher needle size should be be used.
Needle and Thread Dresses Function :
For sewing light or heavy fabrics i.e. all kinds of side seam specially in the trouser side-seam are sewing by this machine. Needle is very important parts of this machine. needle and thread dresses of this machine should check regular interval for better performance sewing.
Parts of Sewing Machine with Label:
Parts of sewing machine with label is listed here-
Machine pulley
Presser foot
Front cover
Looper
Needle bar
Upper thread guide
Thread take up cover
Finger guard
Pulley cover
Needle and thread dresses
Features of the Machine including Sew and Stitch:
Feed of the Arm Machine
Multi thread chain can be formed by this machine.
It has opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics.
Needle thread is interconnected with looper thread.
Feed of the arm is exact chainstitch sewing machine
Its appearance is difference in face and back side.
Adjustable sewing machine sew and stitch
Sewing machine needle sizes should be well fitted.
Procedure for Broken Needle:
Broken / Used needle record form, helps to identity the problem in production like sewer’s handling, the machine itself, the incompatibility needle to the fabric or needle to machine if there is a consistent return of needles within a couple of hours of production.
Steps to set up a strict needle policy:
Each operator is only entitled to the number of needle required to the machine ( i.e. single needle lock stitch need only 1(one) needle or double needle lock stitch machine need 2(two) needle to operate). No needle in process of operator except needle required during the first implementation of this policy.
Each line should have a person to issue and collect used / completed whenever broken needle replacement is required.
If during the operation a needle is broken it is a must for the line supervisor and operator to collect all the garments surrounding the machine and have it placed separately.
This bundle of garments should be properly checked or scrutinize under magnifying glass or by using a big magnets should pass on each pieces of garments. If broken pieces of needles are found, garments should pass through a metal / needle detector machine to ensure that it is free of needle. If not found then the whole bundle should be properly put inside the metal contaminated or disposal box for burning.
Designated person is now allowed to issue new needle after the above instruction have been carried out satisfactory.
All parts of a broken needle or used must be taped onto the report form immediately after exchange has taken place.
This policy must be strictly implemented because broken bites of needle found in garments may cause cancellation of order.
Broken / Used needle record must be return to acc. store for issuance of needle replacement if not they are not entitled for the issuance of needle replacement.
Please check old confirm all parts of broken needle are available.
If yes provide new needle keep and pest broken needle with all parts.
Keep record and document properly.
If any parts of broken needle are not found then.
Go for the metal detection for the whole bundle.
If found then –
Replace needle by taking parts and placing in the broken needle register.
Keep record and document properly.
If not found then –Tell all concerned the need for their extra
Care. Issue the new needle in place available
Components of broken needle register.
Stop production at that machine. Search the area. If no found with conveyor belt m/c detector. This bundle destroys and photograph should be taken.
Idle m/c should be needle free, before keeping m/c in idle, open needle and should be deposited to needle keeper and he/she will issue needle at the time of installing m/c in the line.
Specification of Chain Stitch Sewing Machine :
Specification of chain stitch sewing machine is shorted below –
Specifications Name
Specifications Value
Product Category
Sewing
Machine Category
Chain stitch sewing machine
Product Name
singer sewing machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Group
Chainstitch
Stitch per minute
5000-6000
Needle size
9,11,14,16,18,20,21
Thread per inch
8”
No of needle
2 needles
No of looper
2 loopers
Seam class
400
Description
Chain stitch sewing machine needle sizes should be same.
Feed of the Arm Chain Stitch Sewing Machine :
Sewing m/c maintenance check list
Sl. No.
Check point (s )
Corrective action (s)
01
Check the lubrication system.
The m/c pulley oil amount & the oil wick.
Oil level.
Oil circulation.
Oil condition.
If the amount in m/c pulley is less add oil.
02
Check the feed dog, needle plate and the presser foot.
If the feed dog is worn out replace it.
03
Check the lopper holder lopper bracket, needle guard.
If the needle guard is damaged replace / repair it.
04
Cleanliness.
Remove the face cover and clean it.
05
Check the safety devices take-up lever cover, belt cover.
Ensure the availability of safety devices of the m/c.
06
Check the electrical wiring, electrical motors clutch etc.
If the motor sounds abnormally, replace the bearings and the cork of the clutch.
Needle Gause Specification:
Needle
Nominal outer diameter
Nominal inner diameter
Nominal wall thickness
Gauge
inches
mm
tol. inches (mm)
inches
mm
tol. inches (mm)
inches
mm
tol. inches (mm)
7
0.180
4.572
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.150
3.810
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.015
0.381
±0.001 (±0.025)
8
0.165
4.191
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.135
3.429
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.015
0.381
±0.001 (±0.025)
9
0.148
3.759
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.118
2.997
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.015
0.381
±0.001 (±0.025)
10
0.134
3.404
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.106
2.692
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.014
0.356
±0.001 (±0.025)
11
0.120
3.048
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.094
2.388
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.013
0.330
±0.001 (±0.025)
12
0.109
2.769
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.085
2.159
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.012
0.305
±0.001 (±0.025)
13
0.095
2.413
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.071
1.803
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.012
0.305
±0.001 (±0.025)
14
0.083
2.108
±0.001 (±0.025)
0.063
1.600
±0.003 (±0.076)
0.01
0.254
±0.001 (±0.025)
15
0.072
1.829
±0.0005 (±0.013)
0.054
1.372
±0.0015 (±0.038)
0.009
0.229
±0.0005 (±0.013)
16
0.065
1.651
±0.0005 (±0.013)
0.047
1.194
±0.0015 (±0.038)
0.009
0.229
±0.0005 (±0.013)
17
0.058
1.473
±0.0005 (±0.013)
0.042
1.067
±0.0015 (±0.038)
0.008
0.203
±0.0005 (±0.013)
18
0.050
1.270
±0.0005 (±0.013)
0.033
0.838
±0.0015 (±0.038)
0.0085
0.216
±0.0005 (±0.013)
19
0.042
1.067
±0.0005 (±0.013)
0.027
0.686
±0.0015 (±0.038)
0.0075
0.191
±0.0005 (±0.013)
20
0.03575
0.9081
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.02375
0.603
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.006
0.1524
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
21
0.03225
0.8192
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.02025
0.514
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.006
0.1524
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
22
0.02825
0.7176
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.01625
0.413
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.006
0.1524
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
22s
0.02825
0.7176
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.006
0.152
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.0111
0.2826
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
23
0.02525
0.6414
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.01325
0.337
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.006
0.1524
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
24
0.02225
0.5652
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.01225
0.311
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.005
0.1270
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
25
0.02025
0.5144
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.01025
0.260
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.005
0.1270
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
26
0.01825
0.4636
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.01025
0.260
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.004
0.1016
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
26s
0.01865
0.4737
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.005
0.127
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.0068
0.1734
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
27
0.01625
0.4128
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00825
0.210
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.004
0.1016
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
28
0.01425
0.3620
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00725
0.184
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.0035
0.0889
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
29
0.01325
0.3366
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00725
0.184
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.003
0.0762
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
30
0.01225
0.3112
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00625
0.159
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.003
0.0762
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
31
0.01025
0.2604
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00525
0.133
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.0025
0.0635
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
32
0.00925
0.2350
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00425
0.108
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.0025
0.0635
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
33
0.00825
0.2096
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00425
0.108
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.002
0.0508
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
34
0.00725
0.1842
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
0.00325
0.0826
±0.00075 (±0.019)
0.002
0.0508
±0.00025 (±0.0064)
Safety for Chain Stitch Sewing Machine:
Please turn of the power switch or disconnected it for any one of the circumstances of the followings –
When threading needles, adjusting thread take-ups, thread guides, and replacing bobbins.
When replacing needles, presser feet, needle plates, feed dogs, needle guards, horns, coth guides and other parts or accessories
Do not use power tools where there is risk to cause any fire or explosion.
When repairing the chain stitch sewing machine
When the operator leaves the working place or leaves the machine unattended
It clutch motors without brake pads are used, must wait until the motor stops completely.
Single Needle Lockstitch machine of Elna, Pfaff and Bernina is developing for garments industries. Lockstitch machine which produces stitches by interlacing of threads is called lock stitch machine. This machine produces durable stitches and is very popular in garment industries. To operate this machine on sewing table one person should have practical knowledge about the plain sewing machine.
Elna Sewing Machine Parts:
Sewing machine parts of single needle machine is given below with a diagram. The diagram shown its different parts.
Parts of lock Stitch Machine
Feed dog
Connection rods
Pressure foot
Upright arm shaft
Upright arm
Arm shaft
Needle bar
Spool pin
Bobbin
Loop taker
Bobbin case
Paddle
Side plate
M/C pulley
Cone stand
Horizontal arm
Head
Face plate
Bed shafts
Checklist for needle and metal control:
Is there a secure location for keeping needles and other tools?
Is there a trained, authorised person to issue needles or other metal tools?
Do the authorised people fully understand the procedure?
Is there a needle record sheet for broken needles?
Is it correctly and accurately completed?
Are all broken needles included on the record sheet?
Do all employees understand the metal control procedure in this area?
Is there a clear procedure for dealing with missing broken needle pieces?
Are there any spare needles at the machines or any unused machines with needles in?
Are there any broken needles on the floor?
Are there any untied small scissors at machines?
Are there any other sharp metal items in the work area?
Are there pins or staples used in this area?
Checklist for needle and metal detection
Is the metal detector located at the end of the process so all items pass through without being missed?
Do all products pass directly into a metal free zone after being detected?
Has the metal detector been serviced in the past 12 months?
Does the metal detector only detect non-ferrous metal?
Is the machine operator trained to use the machine?
If metal is detected, does the conveyor stop and an alarm sound?
Is there a record sheet for metal pieces found?
Is the machine restarted by a key?
Is there an isolation box for items where the metal contamination cannot be found?
Is the 9 point system used to check the metal detector prior to any product being metal detected?
Are there record sheets for all system checks?
Function of Single Needle Lockstitch Machine:
For sewing light or heavy fabric i.e. all kinds of plain sewing. It use different types of single needle. It is very easy to install the needles in the machine.
Features of Lock Stitch Machine on Sewing Table:
The features of a lock stitch machine on sewing table is stated here berifly-
Stiches are produced on sewing table by interlocking of lockstitch sewing machine
Bobbin and bobbin case are present on sewing table
Threads are supplied on sewing table from cone.
It has one needle and one bobbin.
Specifications of LockStitch Machine:
The specification of a elna lockstitch machine is specified below-
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]
[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category
Sewing
Machine Category
Lock Stitch Machine
Product Name
Lock Stitch Machine
Product Model
According to Manufacturer
Product Class
New
Origin
China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer
Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh
No/Yes
Power
380v
Temperature
Normal
Certification
SGS/Others
Production Capacity
NA
Group
Lock stitch (Interlacement)
Stitch per minute
1500
Needle size
9,11,14,16,18,20,21
Thread per inch
2.5”
No of needle
One needles
Seam class
300
Description
Should be error free.
Adjusting Stitch Length of Elna Single Needle Machine:
Stitch length of Elna Single Needle can be adjusted variably in range from 1.6mm – 4.2mm, or 6-16 stitch per inch.
Keep pressing the push button A with the left hand then run the hand-wheel with the right hand until you feel the push button lock in for single needle lockstitch machine.
Keep turning the hand-wheel for a inquired stitch length. Turn the pulley and align the inquired scale with mark B and then stop pressing the button
Rotate the hand wheel clockwise to increase the stitch length and counter clockwise to decrease for single needle lockstitch machine
Adjusting the stitch length will change the differential feed ratio, therefore after adjusting the stitch length, please adjust the differential feed ratio
S.O.P of Sewing:
To maintain the best quality of Auto garment Group. Any garment of every order & every style when we confirm from buyer for trail or bulk production, at first we (qa. Manager, production manager, maintenance manager, qc supervisor, sewing supervisor, line qc) discuss, all points of the order with p.p. Sample, trim card, order sheet, spec, pattern, buyer comments at pre production meeting then we make a lay out & start making the garments, our line qc/qc supervisor check & measurement every process properly & note on style check file. After complete the garments we (qc supervisor, qa supervisor, qa manager) properly check style one pcs garments with order sheet, p.p. Sample, trim card, spec. Buyer comments & keep record properly. Our qa team complete ipc inspection & keep record properly.
In the production time we maintain * traffic light system * in-line inspection * random measurement * measurement every size every colour every day * wash test * end of the 100% inspection, we keep all record properly.
Purpose: Identification and control of the needles which are broken in the sewing lines during production to ensure product safety.
Scope: All needles broken at the production floor of Auto Garments Limited.
Responsibility: QC Manager and Production Manager is responsible for ensuring that the procedure is properly followed and Executed.
Store Officer (sub store) is responsible for ensuring proper collection of all broken parts of a needle when a replacement needle is being provided.
Line Supervisor, Quality Control In-charge and Production Manager are responsible for taking immediate action when broken parts of a needle has been reported as lost by the operator.
Procedure:Each and every needle breakage shall be recorded in Broken Needle Register (No. F/ST/29) mentioning date, operator name, card no., process, Line no., Buyer’s name, Needle size, Quantity, Change needle no., sign. of operator, issued by, sign of supervisor, sign of Manager, remarks.
When a needle is reported as broken the line supervisor/Operator must bring and submit all the broken parts of the needle in order to receive a replacement.The store officer will issue a replacement needle and preserve the broken parts in the Broken Needle Register (No. F/ST/29). The Issue will be recorded in the same register.
If all the parts of the needle cannot be located, report shall be made to the QC In-charge and Production Manager and the specific garment and all other garment/garment component located near the single needle lockstitch machine shall be segregated and put in a bin with identification board writing “BROKEN NEEDLE/DO NOT TOUCH”
Each and every garment put in the bin shall be separately inspected using a Metal detector by the Operator and QC In-charge.The single needle lockstitch machine shall be checked using a metal detector by the QC In-charge / QC Inspector.
If the broken part cannot be found, Production Manager and QC In-charge shall make decision and authorize the issue of a replacement needle by signing on the broken needle register after verification of the previous activities performed by the QC In-charge, line supervisor and operator.
Garments segregated in step 5.4 shall be thoroughly checked and confirmed that those are free from any broken needle parts before issuing them to production floor.
Conclusion:
It can also be called plain stitch machine. Here different sizes of needle can be used as per requirements. Single needle lockstitch machine mostly used in the garments industries.
