Handheld metal detector, for broken needle fragments that are missing handheld detector will be used to scan the last bundle of work and items within a meter radius of the working place. All products must be scanned on a metal free workplace. The handheld detector is kept in the Production office.It is recommended to use a partition for metal detection or set a metal detection zone that clearly identifies metal checked and non-checked stock.
Needle procedure under the Metal Free policies
Purpose: To ensure all areas of Hop Lun BD operations, are managed through ”policies, procedures and audits with reference to “Metal Free- Tools and Sharps control. Needle procedure under the Metal Free policies
Scope: The work instruction applies to all production areas where sharps, best handheld metal detector and tools are used.
Work instruction
Materials: Colour coded Needle transfer sage box. The box will hold a pre-determined number of needles per machine type and class (catalogue type and size). The identification of the machinery type is colour coded:
RED & YELLOW = Lockstitch & Twin Needle
BLUE & WHITE = Over lock & Cover stitch
GREEN & GREY = Button sew/Bar tack/Pattern tack
Hand tag needles
Metal NeedleDetector
We do not destroy recycle or sale our broken needles button hole knives old cutting blades and non-conforming goods before one year, It means we preserved all of the above things for one year.
Every financial year our product safety manager invite all of our honorable buyer or their representative to watch destroying / burning /recycling the broken needles, utility button hole knives, old cutting blades and non-conforming
They make a team who collect all broken needles, utility buttonhole knives, old cutting blades and non-conforming goods and take snaps before & after burn.
They make a resolution to witness for future records.
Instruction of Metal detection
Before packing all garments lot through detector, check the calibration of the detector. If passes pack the garments.
The garment lot checked should not be moved into the packing area, the checked lot to be kept in the HOLDING . AREA. After hourly check completed, The metal detector needs to be re-checked for calibration. If calibration test passes, then send the lot for packing. If calibration check fails, rectify the detectors problem and re-check the lot through metal detector those which are kept in the HOLDING AREA.
Use of Metal Detectors
Providing buyer customers with safe products is the paramount concern of our company. One of the most important ways we can protect our customers is to make sure there is no contamination in our products from such items as broken needles, pins, trimming shears etc etc. Having proper procedures in any garment factories is one way we protect our goods from possible metal contamination. A second VITAL method is the use of metal detectors, and that is what this memorandum is about.
There are sometimes instances of metal contamination being found during an AQL inspection in our warehouse. Even though one piece only may be found, because metal contamination is a ‘CRITICAL’ fault, buyers have to go to 100% inspection. In our warehouse in bangladesh this means sending the 100% of the goods through our Metal Detectors. Buyers have had some cases lately where it has not been possible to put the garments through the metal detectors, because
Note: if a ferrous trim is coated to the extent that it does not trigger a metal detector, it is possible it may be allowed, but it is much safer to use non-ferrous materials even for coated articles). It is realized that there may be some cases where this non-ferrous requirement may not be possible to instigate without causing a delay to the delivery. Therefore it is decided that
for goods already in production, and for goods where the trims are already in manufacture, we will allow suppliers to proceed without changing the accessories. However suppliers MUST inform the appropriate Tema Merchandiser or Buyer if they are making any products which contain ferrous material. There are changes being made in Buyer Operating Procedures which will detail the changes to be made, but here are some main points for all suppliers to take into account:
For all orders placed from now on, suppliers MUST make sure that no ferrous materials are used in trims and accessories such as buttons, belts, logos, studs, poppers, or similar accessories etc
The ‘detection level’ to which metal detectors should be set is 1.2mm. To allow a safety factor, Tema products must not exceed 1.0mm. Our Fabric and Trims Handbook will be modified to reflect this
Our AQL procedures will be modified to make sure part of the inspected quantity will be put through the factory’s metal detector to make sure the trims do not trigger the alarm
We will issue enhanced inspection instructions to be followed in the case of goods for which it has not been possible to use a metal detector after production
A document will be issued from our Garment Technology Directorate which will detail exactly which materials may be used instead of ferrous products For example, aluminium may be an alternative. Our Accessories and Trims Coordinator will be contacting our accredited trims suppliers to reinforce these instructions
Policy of Handheld Metal Detector
All garments and footwear manufactured for buyer must be metal detected. Buyer preferred method of application is a conveyor tunnel type detector, capable of detecting metal fragments to a sensitivity level of 1.2mm diameter ferrous standard
Policy of Handheld Metal Detector
Companies which manufacture products for Tema must have metal detectors. All products in all product groups must be 100% checked with best handheld metal detector and made ready for shipment.
Metal detection should not be seen as an alternative to Broken Needle Policy but support it.
Metal detectors must be kept clean in good working condition in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, and serviced regularly. Service records should be kept for inspection by Tema auditors.
The sensitivity level of the metal detector must be checked 3 times a day with a suitable test pack that contains a 1.2mm diameter ferrous test card. These calibrations should be recorded on a Daily Calibration Sheet that should be available for Tema auditors. It is recommended to do 9 point calibration checks to be certain about the sensivity of the machine at three height of the aperture.
Only the nominated personnel can adjust the machine sensitivity.
In the event that the best handheld metal detector is found not functioning properly, the Department Supervisor must be informed immediately and the handheld metal detector must be withdrawn from use until the relevant service company is notified and the repair is complete after a recalibration and a full function check.
Number of products passed through recorded daily. It is advisable to put check stickers (e.g. am or pm) onto the polybags, to identify the time period the stock was checked, in the event of failure.
If a product fails the test, the operator must remove and isolate it from other products on the conveyor. The Department Supervisor will investigate the product. If the contamination is found, it should be recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet. If the contamination is not found, the product needs to be put into a sealed locked container labeled Contaminated Stock.
In order for stone fragments in stone-washed or sand-washed denim products not to mislead the detectors, detection is conducted before washing and metal accessory attachment. Manual best handheld metal detector should be used after washing in order to check any jackron labels that may have been attached after washing and the parts which may have been repaired.
Dr. Kety Hoss, Lecturer, Department of Textile Technology, University of Hong Kong
Best Sewing Box, this will be used to transfer used and broken needles from the lien to the Tools and Sharps distribution room. To be introduced. To make sure that all metal equipment such as needles, hand sewing needles, kimball guns, scissors, snips, pins, etc. is held under control during the manufacturing processes and that all products manufactured for Buyer do not contain any hazardous metal materials that could harm the customers. This procedure is applicable to all our ready-to-wear suppliers.
Procedure of Best Sewing Box
All sharps and needles are stored in the secured Needle distribution room within the maintenance room within each manufacturing facility.
The central needle stock warehouse will distribute replenishment stock to each Needle Distribution room every 7 days.
Start of each work week the “Custodian” will count the starting stock before any issuance to ensure accuracy.
The Needles will be placed into its respective colour coded section in the box. The allocation slot will be the same for each distribution box.
The Issuance record sheet shall be updated and crossed check to ensure accuracy prior to distribution.
Normal needle change. The Custodian will only distribute new needles to a Line Supervisor (Line Leader) in exchange for the following:
Regular needle change
Bent needle
New style layout
The supervisor will use the Needle transfer safe box to transport needles from the lines to the tools and Sharps distribution room. The box can hold more than one needle; the box is divided into a pre numbered section, the individual section will ensure integrity of different type needles or broken needle fragments.
For exchange needles the custodian will take receipt of the old needle, tape onto the used needle log sheet (QAUNCL0001) and issue a new needle. Ensuring a signature/ID is place in the appropriate space on the form.
Broken needle procedure
The supervisor (Line leader) will take the needle fragments to the custodian for checking against the correct Needle reference card
If all needles fragments are intact then the custodian will attach the fragments to the Broken Needle Control sheet The supervisor (Line leader) will receive the new needle; place it in the Needle transfer safe box, then sign the Broken Needle Control sheet .
In cases of missing fragments the supervisor (Line leader) will check product within 1 meter of the machine (Left – Right – Front – back) using a hand held metal detector.
Using the retractable magnet check the same 1 meter radius of the machine. Including the sewing area and oil pan for any fragments.
The supervisor (Line leader) will take the fragments in the Needle transfer safe box and hand them over to the custodian. The custodian will attach the fragments to the Broken Needle Control sheet . The supervisor (Line leader) will receive the new needle; place it in the needle transfer safe box, then sign the Broken Needle Control sheet .
The Missing needle check list procedure will be followed: step #1 through to #5
#1 Check all areas and machine including the garments in the area (1 meter radiu
#2 Identify whether fragment found or not (move to #3) If found the needle will be issued, the garments will be returned to the sewing line.
#3 If not found all garments from the workstation will be sent to the metal detection machine and checked one by one.
#4 If still not found it will go for signature of the PM/APM. The full piece/bundle will be placed inside the Needle transfer safe box, placed by the metal detection room and a log book record kept
#5 Once 1 – 4 has been completed, the Compliance and QA must sign off the incident then only will the new needle be replenished.
Dependent on buyer requirement: Target request 5 year retention, thus Hop Lun BD will follow 5 year rule.
Responsible Parties
Suppliers: The suppliers are bound to comply with all the conditions stated in this memorandum and take necessary precautions in the light of warnings provided.
Buyer Auditors: Buyer auditors will pay random visits to the suppliers to make sure that the suppliers comply with all the conditions stated in this procedure.
General requirements
The equipment that has been given to the operators by the Department Supervisors should be attached to work benches to stop accidental loss.
The supervisors must check equipment periodically and withdraw any equipment found not fit for purose.
Only the supervisors or nominated personnel can issue replacement needles, or equipment. Spare needles, kimball guns, scissors are not allowed at the work station.
The supervisors should keep the metal equipment in secured and locked cabinets. The cabinets are always locked and keys are kept only by the supervisors or a nominated employee.
Metal Contamination
Mechanics/operators should pay extra attention to ensure that tools or instruments do not get lost in garments.
Staples ust not be used in any operation or in the sewing room.
Pins must not be used in the packaging of any product.
Razors must not be used as cutters. If cutting of this type is needed, a modeling knife/scalpel with a secure blade must be used.
Scissors and clippers should be tied to the workplace to prevent potential loss within a product. If it is not possible to tie them, then they should be logged in/out at the beginning/end of each shift.
Personal items such as keys, hairgrips, jewellery, etc. cannot be placed on/near machines or/and tables.
If a metal contamination product is found to be contaminated with metal fragments and the metal cannot be found after thorough inspection, then the product must be placed in a sealed locked container labeled Contaminated Stock by the Department Supervisors, and recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet.
Application Of The Broken Needle Policy
All needles must be accounted for in all operations of the manufacturing process. This is ensured with the implementation of the Needle Change Report.
Whenever a needle break occurs, every effort must be made to recover all of the broken pieces before the manufacturing starts again and the products move onto the next process. Needle parts need to be checked against a profile or new complete needle to ensure that all parts are found.
If a needle breaks during a manufacturing process, machine operator should stop working and inform the Department Supervisor. The incident should be recorded with all relevant information on the Broken Needle Report and all parts of the broken needle should be collected immediately and affixed on the report with a large, transparent adhesive tape.
If all parts of a broken needle are not found, then the products on which the operator is working, and any others in close proximity to the machine and workspace must be checked. If all parts are still not found, all products must be removed and packed into a polybag and passed through the metal detector in order to isolate any products containing metal fragments. These products must be thoroughly examined in a quarantined area until the missing needle parts are found. This must be recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet. If, for any reason, all parts of the needle cannot be found, the products need to be put into a sealed locked container labeled Contaminated Stock and must be recorded in the Metal Detected Stock Sheet accordingly.
New needle can only be attached to the machine when the broken needle is found and accounted for. Then the machine operator can continue working.
Broken Needle Reports must be kept for a minimum of three years, and there after disposed off in sealed containers. Buyer Auditors will check these reports randomly.
Conclusion
The Tools and Sharps distribution room must be completely locked at all times of Needle transfer safe box
The custodian is the only authorized person to enter the room.
Exception internal audits or Buyer audit
Compliance department is responsible to ensure all aspects of the procedure are being followed through continuous audit.
The Custodian directly reports to the maintenance manager and functionally to the QA manager
The GM will follow up on the audits of the Metal free policies, one a month
The GM will ensure that all staff will be trained with reference to the Metal free policies
Organizational chart for Best Sewing Box tools distribution room.
Jack and Jones, Kimber Sewing Machine Ltd., Africa
There is only one head that is comprised of the needle. This single head single needle embroidery machine also can design computerized machine embroidery. A single needle embroidery machine has only one hoop attachment and often has smaller hoop capabilities than a multi needle machine. Its looks like a traditional sewing machine. Single needle embroidery machine is designed as flat bed bottom including a removable embroidery unit. When a single needle machine is embroidering, the needle stays stationary and the embroidery arm moves according to the digitized design. It can used for general sewing, creating decorative and utility stitches
Metal control of single needle embroidery machine environment
Metal stock should be placed in the trims stores and locked away.
Small stock of single needle would be transferred to production floor to a designated person in charge.
All records must be maintained for six months
2 boxes are required one is for the needles accommodating up to 10 different types of needles, and one box for broken needles.
Those boxes should be locked and lock codes should be changed frequently every week.
Person in charge of needles procedures (production floor) should carried an inventory card identifying the stock movement in and out per type of single needle embroidery machine. The in process stock locked in all time.
Person in charge of needles procedures (production floor) should have in possession one file per production line that contains the following information:
Samples of each type of single needle embroidery machine
Copy of single needles procedures
Report identifying the time, and the employee required the new needle or a needle replacement and the reason signed by the supervisor.
Supervisor should carry all damage needles in a transparent box similar to the box of the needles in order to transport the damaged or replaced needle to the person in charge of the needles procedures.
Needle Replacement / Metal Contamination – General Guidelines and Procedures:
The supervisor or nomination person should hold all the spares in a secured location, and only he shall be permitted to allocate to the operators.
Mechanics must ensure that no double needles are left on the machines after servicing
The operator must not hold any spare double needles.
The issues of needles against broken should be one for one basis.
Old and multi needles should be disposed off securely in a sealed container.If a needle breaks, all parts must be found or case defined ( in case part of the fragments cannot be found) before the work is allowed to continue. The supervisor must ensure that proper searches have been carried out if all the parts of the needle have not been located.
Person in charge of needles procedures (production floor), should compare the parts of the broken single needle vis-à-vis the original sample to avoid any piece left around the sewing machine in question.
Single Head Single Needle
In case of missing parts of the broken single needle, the person in charge of the needles procedures should scan the sewing machine area in a circle of 2 meters diameter using hand held scanner.
Factory must keep a record of broken record (for six months) in a secure location for auditing. Recommend to keep by machine type, single needle size, and by production line to establish a history so that trends can be recognised.
No operator should in any circumstances be in possession of any single needle other than those, which are in the machine carrying out the sewing operation.
Other metallic objects, i.e. pins, nails, tacks and staples must not be used in any production area such as: cutting, warehouse, laying up, making up, inspection, packaging or any other operations where garments or components are handled.
Fabrics, boxes, cartons, reels of elastics, lace, binding, etc., must not be secured by metallic objects.
If pins or hazardous tools are used, then this must be a controlled auditable procedure.
If all the parts of the broken multi needle cannot be found, all work in progress at the workstation should be removed to a specifically designated metal free area and checked thoroughly with a metal detector.
If after checking the garment is clear, it should be processed as normal. If however, metal is detected it must be found and removed before the garment is processed. But if metal detected and cannot be found, the garment must be destroyed.
The Operator will approach the nominated person with all the parts of the broken needles.
In Case of all parts of broken needle are not found –
The concerned person should notify the production supervisor and mechanic.
Depose the garment or panels being stitched.
Uncover the machines oil tanks by mechanics for checking
Check the working area with a needle detector to ensure that broken fragments are not fallen into the ready garments / panels.
If the broken fragments are still not found after the said searching procedure, the supervisor is allowed to rite onto the reports that “confirm garments are free from single needle fragments”
Only the nominated persons should reissue the single needle to the operator.
Final Control at Packing Stage :
Needle detector machine should be provided to provide the final check of the garments.
The checked garments should be packed into the cartons immediately after passing through the needle detector machine so that garments are not susceptible to contamination.
Corrective actions when metal is found:
Following actions should be performed if any metal item is detected in the process of packing by the single needle detector :
Remove all the garments on the conveyor belt to a lockable storage zone.
Then the affected garments should be again passed through the needle detector machine one at a time and deemed safe if on rejected on that occasion.
Any item rejected for the second time should be physically checked for the contamination and located and removed.
After removal, such garment should be again passed through the needle detector machine. This garment can be accepted if found ok else it has to be destroyed.
Full records have to be made and kept for the last 12 months showing date. PO #, style #, inspected quality, results (contamination found or not), corrective action taken etc and it should be signed by the supervisor.
Calibration :
A report should be carried on the hand held scanner calibration, twice a day, mentioning the day and the time.
The hand held scanner should be tested before and after usage for battery failure.
Needles should be removed off the non-operated sewing machine and return to stock.
Needles used on Hand tagging gun should follow same procedures as per the needles of the sewing floor.
Supervisors and management must check all production areas on a regular basis for needles, pins, staples, etc, or any other metal fragments.
Disposal of Needles / Metals:
Collect the single needle embroidery machine parts for the Floor and past it in the card and sent to Stores.
Collected parts are kept in the Stores in transparent containers.
After 3 months, the container is buried underground with the cement layer both in top bottom of the container.
Record of the Burial is mentioned in the top part of the cement layer which is visible on the surface.
Other Points:
No operator should in any circumstances be in possession of any single needle embroidery machine other than those, which are in the machine carrying out the sewing operation.
Other metallic objects, i.e. pins, nails, tacks and staples must not be used in any production area such as: cutting, warehouse, laying up, making up, inspection, packaging or any other operations where garments or components are handled.
Fabrics, boxes, cartons, reels of elastics, lace, binding, etc., must not be secured by metallic objects.
If pins or hazardous tools are used, then this must be a controlled auditable procedure of single needle embroidery machine factory
Restricted substances list is very important factors for apparel industries. Environmental responsibility is a fundamental part of our approach to corporate Social Responsibility. We recognise that buyer business has many environmental and social impacts. Some of these are associated with the activities of the suppliers. Buyer want to promote more sustainable practices within buyer own operations and here possible influence you as Supplier to improve the environmental standards in the Supply Chain. It is mandatory that effluent is controlled to Local and National in-country regulations at all sites involved in the manufacture of fabric & garments for buyer including sub-contracted units, for example Laundry Facilities. Any textile and washing factory should have chemical purchase policy to minimize the risk
Storage and handling of dyes and chemicals must be made the subject of high standards of industrial hygiene and safe working practices, the objective being to prevent or to reduce to an absolute minimum, the exposure to the workforce and the associated health risks. Exposure can occur through Skin Absorption, Contact with the Eyes, Ingestion or Inhalation.
Working procedures should be established to avoid exposure by all these routes. As far as possible, this should be achieved by engineering means such as containment and/or effective ventilation, including the use of dust free or liquid products. Protective clothing & headgear, where applicable, should always be worn i.e. gloves, goggles or face masks. No smoking, drinking or eating is allowed in areas where chemicals are handled. There is a number of restricted substances that buyrs does not allow or only allow a restricted substances list to be present in any of their products, be it in the fabric, trims, accessories, packaging, garment processing etc. For a list of these restricted substances on fabrics please see the buyer Fabric Assurance Manual. For restricted substances list on accessories, trims, interlining, packaging and in garment processing please see below:
1. Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound that can be found in dyeing and printing for fixation (e.g. easy care finish), preservation of dyes and prints, tanned leather, interlinings, bonded fabrics and for anti-shrinking treatments. In larger quantities, it can cause allergy, skin and respiratory tract irritations and is a suspected carcinogen. It can be present in 2 forms: free on the surface (to determine the level of Formaldehyde present in the fabric or garment to give an indication on the risk of handling the product), or released in a vapour form (to determine the level of Formaldehyde given off by the fabric into the atmosphere to give an indication as to the risk of respiratory problems). Any items for buyer should not exceed the following levels:
Free formaldehyde – 30ppm
Released formaldehyde – 75ppm
Alternatives: Use pure finishes where possible. In the case of applications such as flock or appliqué then formaldehyde containing agents should be avoided. Where this is not possible the above standards must apply to be included as part of (and not separate from) the whole sample test result (i.e. base material plus application together must not exceed above values
2. Nickel
All components used for buyer must be nickel free: Nickel is an allergenic, can cause contact dermatitis and suspected to be carcinogenic. It is a silver white metal that is added to or plated on other metals to improve the hardness of alloys and corrosion resistance properties, particularly associated with a bright metal finish. These are often present in accessories for garments, such as zips, buttons and rivets as well as earrings, bracelets, zippers, watches, studs, rivets, belt buckles etc
3. Phthalates
All products supplied to or for buyer orders must be phthalate free. Phthalates are plasticisers that are used to soften PVC, which can be used in computers, paints, printing inks, adhesives, in plastisol prints, cosmetics, footwear, stationary, clothing, accessories, toys and many packaging operations. Phthalates can migrate into the body, if they come into contact with saliva/sweat and are suspected to be an endocrine disruptor and carcinogens and are known to disturb the endocrine system
4. Cadmium
All products supplied to or for buyer orders must be cadmium free. Cadmium is commonly used in the industry as pigment, dye, paint stabiliser and plating for functional and decorative purposes. Therefore it may be found in a variety of products including packaging, plastics, paint, plastisol printed areas, PVC, PU, coated or laminated fabrics, toys, batteries, furniture, apparel and clothing accessories, such as buttons, zips etc.
5. Chlorinated Organic Dye Carriers
These can affect the nervous system and might have an irritating effect on skin and mucous membranes and are therefore prohibited in buyer products. Dye carriers can be based on trichloro benzene, biphenyl phenol, orthophenyl phenol & halogenated aromatic hydrocarbons. Used as carriers in the dyeing process of polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can dye at boil to cut costs.
Alternatives: High temperature dyeing of polyester by aqueous or continuous dyeing techniques only should be used. Use only permitted dyestuffs. Substitute chlorinated carriers with toxicologically acceptable carriers such as Carboxylic Acid Esters.
6. Organo Tin Compounds
Organo Tin Compounds must not be present in any Buyer products. Tributyl Tin (TBT) Triphenyl Tin (TPT) is used for anti-microbial finishing and in some printing inks. For textile product it is used for preventing the bacterial degradation of sweat and unpleasant odours in socks, shoes and sport clothing. It is a catalyst and stabiliser for PVC and PU, used in coated or laminated fabrics e.g. imitation leather, bags, shoes.
High concentrations of these compounds are repro-toxic. They are persistent organic pollutants (POP), causing immense damage to water supplies and aquatic species and absorbed through the skin may affect the nervous system. Dibutyltin (DBT) is another Organotin with various applications, such as intermediate for stabilisers of PVC, a catalyst for electrodeposition paints, a catalyst for various types of polyurethanes and as a catalyst for esterification.
7. PCBs & Polychlorinated Terphenyls (PCTs)
PCBs and PCTs must not be present in any Buyer products. Chlorinated organic carriers such as PCB and PCT are mainly used as pesticides but also as softeners, carriers and flame retardants. They are large, stable molecules that can easily accumulate in organisms and environment. They can affect liver, hormone, immune and nervous system.
Alternatives: Modern processing techniques do not require use of PCBs.
8. Chlorinated Phenols – PCP
Chlorinated Phenols are chemical compounds that include PCP and TeCP. Orthochlorophenol, Pentachlorophenol (PCP), Penatachlorophenol & TeCP should be avoided in the production, storage or transportation of any product. It is used as an antifungal agent in leather/textiles e.g. heavy duty cotton and can also be used as preservative in sizing agents/adhesives and printing pastes. They are bio-accumulative, if persistent in the environment they can be harmful to human health and toxic to the aquatic environment and can cause allergy and be cancer inducing. Like most chlorinated compounds they degrade to dioxins on combustion. Dioxins are one of the most toxic non degradable restricted substances list around.
Buyer requests that their concentration in any product should be nil.
Anything treated with PCP must be disposed of by methods other than burning.
Alternatives:Seek supplier advice. Use should not be required if long term storage is not
needed
9. Prohibited Colourants
Azo Dye ‘Blue Colourant’ The azo dye ‘blue colourant’ known by the trade name ‘used for colouring textiles and leather must not be used in any products for buyer. It has got a high aquatic toxicity and reaches the environment via waste water from the dyeing processes.
Azo Dyes: Azo Dyes are a group of synthetic dyestuffs based on nitrogen. They are suitable for all natural and synthetic textile fibres used in textiles (dyed, printed and white) and leather products including clothing, bedding, towels, leather gloves, toys, yarns and fabrics intended for final use by the consumer. They get into the product through the colouration process, especially printing or dyeing. Azo Dyes can break down and produce aromatic amines that have been found to be carcinogenic and allergic and pose a risk to workers and consumers
Carcinogenic Disperse Dyes: These are commonly used to dye polyester, acetate and nylon, also used to colour plastic jewellery and PVC/PES film and found in printing. They can cause cancer and allergies.
Allergenic Disperse Dyes: These are commonly used to dye polyester, acetate and nylon and can cause dermatitis. The following dyestuffs have been implicated in cases of contact dermatitis. Suppliers must be able to certify the absence of restricted substances list of dyestuff. Again adequate alternatives exist without restricting the colour palette.
Alternatives: There is no reason to restrict colour palettes as adequate alternatives of both the Disperse Dyes & other colorants exist. Use only permitted dyestuffs
10. Chromium (VI)
Chromium VI (hexavalent chromium) or its derivatives must not be present in any buyerproducts, as Chromium (VI) and compounds are classified as carcinogenic and can cause allergic reactions, are bio accumulative, highly toxic as well as being environmentally persistent. It is found in dyes, pigments, dye additives, pre/after treatments in dyeing processes particularly associated with the leather industry.
Alternatives: Avoid 2 bath chrome tanning as it uses Chrome VI directly. Carefully control 1 bath tanning to avoid the conversion from Chrome III to Chrome VI. Avoid strong alkaline conditions (e.g. treatment with Ammonia before tanning and strong alkaline glues). Careful selection of neutralizing agents (replace with reducing agents) and fat liquoring agents
11. Alkylphenols (APs) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs)
Alkylphenol Ethoxylates are a class of chemical which are used as non-ionic surfactants with an emulsifying and dispersing action. They are considered to be harmful and toxic to the environment and are possible endocrine disrupters. The most common usage is in detergent products, scouring agents and emulsifying agents in printing. The second most common use is in textile processing (in particular with fibres such as linen and silk, whose naturally occurring gums and resins make them difficult to wet out) where it is used in various textiles auxiliaries including wetting agents and in the manufacture of water based pigment pastes to improve pigment dispersion.
At the processing stage , approximately 50% of APEO are used as emulsifiers for emulsion polymers based on styrol butadiene, Styrol acrylate, Pure acrylate or PVC systems. The range of products where APEO’s can be found includes plastic coating, paper coating, textile coating, dispersion paints and varnishes, sealants and similar products. The use of APs and APEOs specifically containing Octyl Phenols (OP), Nonylphenols and Nonylphenol ethoxylates is prohibited in all areas of buyer production. Nonylphenol Ethoxylate (NPEO), Octylphenol and their Ethoxylates (Alkyl Ethoxylates)
Alternatives: Alcohol ethoxylates are an acceptable alternative.
12. Fluorocarbons – PFOS, halides, amides and other derivatives
The use of fluorocarbons containing Perfluoro Octanoic Acid (PFOA) and Perfluoro Octanyl Sulphonates (PFOS) are prohibited in buyer products, as these are persistent in the environment, possibly carcinogenic, bio-accumulative and harmful to mammals. PFOS are found in coatings for fabrics to provide water or soiling repellency.
Alternatives: Chemical suppliers are now able to offer adequate alternatives.
13. Flame Retardants
Flame retardants such as tris-(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate, polybromobiphenyles; Polybrominatedbiphenols (PBB), Ttris-(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide, Pentabromodiphenylether (PentaBDE) and Octabromodiphenylether (OctaBDE) are not allowed buyer products.
Flame retardants used in the manufacture of various items to inhibit or prevent combustion and to reduce the flammability of a product, are chemicals causing allergic reactions. They are carcinogenic, mutagenic, persistent organic pollutants, repro-toxic and toxic. They are restricted substances list under the Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Safety) Regulations 1980. Flame retardants may be found in the finishing or manufacturing process of apparel, homewares, furniture, toys and electronic products.
14. Alkanes – Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffin’s (SCCP’s)
Short chain chlorinated paraffins are toxic to the environment and are prohibited for the use in buyer products. They are often used as softeners on flame retardant treated fabrics. Also used as degreasers and softeners for leather.
15. Biocides & Biocide Finishes
Biocides are harmful to health and the environment and are prohibited to be used in buyer products. Biocides are often used to impart properties such as “antimicrobial” or “anti-odour” in textile products. Biocide finishes include Anti-allergy/bacterial/fungal/microbial finishes. As these can contain harmful chemicals, biocide finishes are not allowed to be used on any buyer product.
Alternatives: Seek advice from chemical supplier.
16. Triclosan
This is an active ingredient in antimicrobial finishes and is an environmental hazard. buyer will therefore not allow any Triclosan to be used on it’s products.
17. Yellowing
There has been a considerable increase in the use of phenol and aromatic amine antioxidants and stabilisers. These compounds are now widely found in products such as packaging, lubricants and foams. The most commonly used is BHT (butylated hydroxyl tolulene). In urban areas and areas of high traffic density, atmospheric pollution from oxides of nitrogen and anti-oxidants is known by various names: yellowing, warehouse yellowing or elusive yellowing. Practical steps for prevention:
Don’t allow diesel-powered fork-lifts in the production or warehouse areas
Exclude exhaust fumes from garment storage areas
Avoid direct gas or oil heating systems
Specify BHT-free polythene for packaging
Specify BHT-free lubricants during manufacture
Finish fabric on the acid side of neutral (pH 5.5-6.5), to avoid skin irritation and burns.
18. Soluble/Extractable Heavy Metals
Heavy elements such as:
Antimony (Sb)
Arsenic (As)
Barium (Ba)
Cadmium (Cd)
Chromium (Cr)
Cobalt (Co)
Lead (Pb)
Mercury (Hg)
Selenium (Se)
Tin (Sn)
refer to any metallic chemical element that has a relatively high density and is toxic or poisonous at low concentrations. All heavy elements have a very negative effect on human health and are found in the pre-processing or in some dyestuffs and chemicals, including printing inks and print pastes, accessories for textiles and clothing (such as buttons, zips, clasps), paints, trims, plastics and metal components.
Alternatives: The use of fabrics, prints & finishes and accessories containing these metal elements must be avoided.
Found as solvents in dyeing and printing, also finishing agents, flame retardants and plasticizers, solvents for fats and oils used as stain removers and scouring assistants. These restricted substances exist as liquid or gas and can affect the nervous system, with irritating effects on skin and mucous membranes. The above are restricted substances list in several EU countries and are banned to be used for any products supplied to buyer
20. Persistent organic pollutants (POPs)
Persistent organic pollutants (such as polychlorinated naphthalenes (PCNs) and short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) are organic compounds that are resistant to environmental degradation
21. Solvent based pigment printing systems & Ozone depleting solvents
The use of solvent based pigment binder systems is prohibited and aqueous based binder systems must be used instead. Solvents are principally used as cleaning agents but are also found in other products such as adhesives and dye carriers. All processes where solvents are used must comply with the following criteria:
Authentic date & safety sheets must be available to all operatives. Due regard must be paid to the health and safety of the operative when operating with solvents with adequate ventilation, sufficient personal protective equipment and proper records kept of operative exposures.
The solvent must be recoverable.
In the case of adhesives an aqueous based alternative should be used where possible.
Spot stain removal should be done where possible using aqueous based agent.
Solvent operations should be minimised with no residual solvent left on the final product. Extreme caution should be exercised when handling solvents with proper risk assessment as to their usage undertaken. In any event the use of ozone depleting solvents as defined in the Montreal protocol is prohibited.
Alternatives: Aqueous based binder systems & aqueous cleaning systems to be used.
22. Mothproofing Agents
The use of mothproofing agents in the production of clothing is prohibited.
Alternatives: There is no alternative to moth proofing agents. Use of agents giving similar properties is not necessary in a properly controlled production environment.
23. Organochloride Pesticides
Pesticides are used as a defence against insects etc during the cultivation of natural fibres such as cotton, they may also be used to protect other products such as leather or feathers. Pesticides may harm the environment through soil, air or water pollution. Some chlorinated pesticides may convert to dioxins which are extremely toxic.
Alternative: Checks to be made with supplier as regulations are regularly changing.
24. Fungicides
Fungicides may be applied or inserted in products for protection against mould whilst in transit.
Fungicides containing Dimethyl fumarate can cause allergenic reactions when in contact with the skin.
25. Latex
As natural rubber can cause allergic reactions in some people it is not allowed to be used in any of buyer products.
26. Mercury (Hg)
Mercury is used in certain caustic soda processes in fabric/garment manufacture. It has detrimental effects on the central nervous system and is an anticipated carcinogen.
Mercury containing products are prohibited and all caustic soda treatments must be mercury free.
Alternatives: Use of non Mercury containing products required.
27. PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
PVC can be used in many areas such as coatings, accessories and zips. As PVC is closely related to phthalates (for softening) and organotins (as stabiliser) the use of PVC is prohibited.
Alternatives: Non polyvinylchloride, Polyurethane or Acrylic containing products are readily available.
28. Chlorine Bleaches
The use of chlorine-containing bleaches should be avoided wherever possible or practicable. In the bleaching and processing of fabric and garments, where there is a choice, peroxide based bleaching systems are preferred.
29. Potassium Permanganate
This is a purple chemical that is used as a bleaching agent and can be toxic, skin & respiratory irritant, as well as a hazard to the environment
30. Residual PH
Textile processing can use extremes of alkalinity and acidity. All finished products must fall within an acceptable limit to avoid any skin irritation.
Upper Limit – pH 7.5
Lower Limit – pH 4.5
The preparation, dyeing and finishing of Textiles can involve the use of chemicals that have high levels of acid and alkali. The final washing process is usually where the pH is monitored and corrected.
31. Dyestuff suppliers
It is strongly recommended that dyestuffs are only supplied by members of ETAD (Ecological & Toxicological Association of Dyes & Organic Pigment Manufacturers).
Please visit the ETAD website at to find the latest information on an ETAD members list.
32. Uzbekistan Cotton
The use of organised and forced child labour is completely unacceptable and leads us to conclude that whilst these practices persist in Uzbekistan cannot support the use of cotton from Uzbekistan in our clothing.We will require you, wherever possible, to identify the source of raw cotton used in buyer Clothing and document this. For all purposes, including all Wal-Mart supplier agreements, this requirement concerning the origin of the cotton is a product specification of all purchase orders for Wal-Mart merchandise containing cotton. Additional information on the issues surrounding Uzbekistan cotton can be found on the following website(s):
33. Dimethyl Fumarate (DMF)
This is found as a fungicide on leather and textiles, paper, wood and anti-humidity bags. As it can cause severe skin irritation plus other health hazards, Dimethyl Fumarate is prohibited in any products/items supplied to buyer
34. Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
We need to maintain safe chemical handling procedure and policy. PAHs are considered to cause several health problems due to their carcinogenic and genotoxic properties. PAHs are formed during the incomplete combustion of organic materials such as wood, oil and animal fats. Rubber and plastics are at most risk of containing PAHs. The restricted substances list are defined above clearly.
The buyers are committed to providing quality products. Part of this commitment to quality is, to make sure that buyer products are safe for buyer customers and end consumer, the environment and people involved in the production of garments goods. Failure to provide safe products can have severe consequences, including: Civil proceedings (for negligence and breach of statutory duty) if an unsafe product causes injuries– Criminal proceedings if the products do not keep to the Consumer Protection –Negative and damaging relationship with buyer customers and reduced customer confidence in the products.
The General Product Safety Regulations 2016 state the following:
‘No producer should place a product on the market unless it is a safe product…… taking into account in particular-
The characteristics of the product, including its composition, packaging, instructions for assembly and maintenance.
The effect on other products, where it is reasonably foreseeable that it will be used with other products.
The presentation of the product, the labelling, any instructions for its use and disposal and any other indication of information provided.
Categories of consumer at serious risk when using the product, in particular children.’
(This final point applies regardless of whether the item is intended for use by children or adults, if that item is considered to be in any way appealing to children.)
It is essential that products manufactured must be safe to wear or use and must keep to all relevant laws. The below is subject to variation in accordance with changes in legislation or level of interpretation. It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure that all goods supplied comply with all current legislation and to keep up to date with any proposed change to current legislation.
Inadequate inspection procedures or poor supervision that could lead to a breach of safety are unacceptable and must be avoided.
Garments manufacturer must make sure that all products are safe. Garments manufacturer must make sure that all necessary precautions are taken during production to keep any risk to buyer customer as low as possible. Garments manufacturer must also tell us, if garments manufacturer find out about any issues that could risk the safety of buyer customer.
If garments manufacturer send buyer goods which are not safe, buyer will have to take the necessary action, which may include recalling the goods from buyer customer’s stores, cancelling that order or any other order made by garments manufacturer, having future orders inspected, recovering buyer charges, costs and possible loss of profits up to the possible termination of buyer business.
If an unsafe object, such as sewing needle, is found in a product there will be a charge. The charge for a first offence will depend on buyer customer. The charge for a second offence will be higher, e.g. double of the charge for the first offence (again depending on the customer) and buyer will have to review buyer business relationship.
The following pages will give advice on how garments manufacturer can keep to the relevant safety laws. However, garments manufacturer should check the laws and also take advice from appropriate bodies (including Trading Standards) to make sure that garments manufacturer are up-to-date with development and best practice.
Garments Policy
All parts of garments should be non-toxic.
Do not use staples.
Finish the top edges of zips so there are no sharp edges.
Poppers, rivets and snaps:
– Must be secure.
– Edges must be bevelled or finished so that the edges are not sharp.
– Must be applied on flat even surface
– Must be applied through minimum 2 ply fabric or through 1 ply with fusible backing
– 90N pull test required
– Post fasteners required on woven fabric, prong attachment on knitted fabrics
– Correct die sets to be used
– Machine hoppers must not be overfilled
– Data sheet to be specified by the Fastener Manufacturer to be provided and to be completed by garment manufacturer with 1st of line production
– Roll setting eyelets must be used (opposed to split setting eyelets)
– Compatible dies from the manufacturer must be used
– A manual check must be carried out to confirm that popper prongs/posts have all been pierced into the basic fabric
All draw cords must be stitched from 2 or more pieces, unless a single cord is run from each side seam where it is securely attached.
All drawstrings – whether functional or mock – should be fixed securely at one point using bar tacking or lock stitching.
Hem or waist drawstrings must be securely fixed at the centre back or side seams for childrenswear, at a point equidistant to the exit points.
All cord ends must be finished to prevent fraying. Ribbon ends must be heat sealed.
Waist cord exposed ends must be no longer than 14 cm each side when the waist or hem is extended. This is to also include self-fabric ties.
Draw cord exposed ends at the hem or any other part of a garment must be maximum 7cm.
Draw cord that is a loop must be no longer than 5cm exposed.
Toggles at the waist and hem are not allowed for childrenswear age 2-8.
Ends should be either heat sealed or covered with securely attached plastic sleeves. Both must be free from sharp edges. Ends may be doubled or folded provided no entrapment hazard is caused. Please note that knotted ends are not allowed.
Garments with functional hood cords and flat chest measurements of less than 44cms will not be approved (sealed) for production, as it is illegal to have a cord all around the hood, when they are sold as childrenswear.
Functional draw cords, draw strings or decorative cords should not be used on the necks or hoods of children’s garments (9 years and under).
There should be no cord exit point at the back of a child’s garment.
For all childrenswear the ends of drawstring, functional cord must not have knots or any object that may cause entrapment e.g. beads, pom-poms.
Fixed loops protruding from the garment shall be no more than 75mm in circumference
Fixed loops which are flat to the garment shall be no more than 75mm in length between fixed points of attachment
Garments should keep to:
The Children’s Clothing (Hood Cords) Regulations 1976
Safety of children’s clothing. Cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing. Specifications. (BS EN 14682)
Restriction to hearing and vision must be taken into consideration when designing integrated hooded garments.
Hoods must be designed to avoid close contact of the fabric to the child’s mouth and nose to make sure breathing is possible.
Elasticated drawstrings cannot be used in any garments for children.
Elasticated cords should only be used in hoods for adult garments, if the ends are inserted into the garment with a loop adjuster. Washed garments must be rinsed thoroughly to remove any grit, dust and sand residue and all stones must be removed.
Sand- & Stone washing must not be used for childrenswear due to the potential safety implications of stones remaining in pockets.
An acceptable alternative to stone washing is an enzyme wash.
Sand used during the washing process must be free from aluminium chips to allow metal detection.
Documentation of 100% inspection for adultwear must show thorough checks for the removals of stones/sand.
Garments washed or treated with chemicals, must have the chemical neutralised before shipment.
In the light of the adverse impacts of sandblasting/blasting on the health of workers buyer have banned all forms of blasting during the design and manufacture of buyer products.
Raised plastic motifs, rubberised prints and any other similar additions must be attached securely, stitched with no gaps, tested for durability and be phthalate free.
Bows must have a maximum tail length of 8cm or 3 ” when positioned at the neck point for childrenswear.
For all products, especially childrenswear, fusible motifs are unacceptable.
Under no circumstances must trims be attached using staples!
All garments must be clean of thread ends or floats longer than 0.5cm, as these can cause lacerations.
Products must be examined inside and out to ensure that there are no loose objects or threads left inside
All stitching must be finished securely to prevent unravelling.
Machine embroidery must be lockstitch attached and secured.
On embroidered panels, all non-woven backing material must be removed from around the embroidery and any large areas within the embroidery. All threads must be trimmed to 0.5cm minimum and maximum 1cm.
Any heavily embroidered/appliqué or metallised yarn embroidered products for childrenswear must have a knitted fusible interlining applied, to prevent irritation.
Embroidered garments are to have no floats longer than 1cm.
Loops of embroidery thread are not acceptable and should be secured and then trimmed.
Neck openings must have a minimum neckstretch which will be customer specific and will be mentioned separately for each order applicable.
The neck must return to its original shape and not show any sign of distortion.
Long floats or ends on reverse of knitted fabrics are unacceptable, in case during wear the threads become caught and do not break, causing injury.
Float length to be no longer than 1 cm on jersey and knitwear.
Metal objects such as pins, staples or clips MUST NOT be used in the packaging and presentation of any childrenswear products.
Where possible the use of polypropylene bags is recommended on all products, not just childrenswear. Although they cannot cause suffocation as polythene, they must still carry a safety warning.
Velcro fastening used must have no sharp edges and all corners must be trimmed.
Avoid positioning Velcro fastening close to the face.
Where positioned in an area that could have contact with the skin, loop fastener side to have direct contact
Velcro must be phthalate free.
Waddings and Quilted Waddings must be made from 100% Polyester, produced using heat bonding methods and low melt Polyester.
Resin treated wadding is not permitted.
A heat bonded scrim on the outer edge of the wadding must be used to prevent fibre migration.
All loose ‘down tough’ type wadding to be double bagged to prevent fibre migration.
Wadding fibres must not percolate through either the lining or the outer fabrics
Thread used to secure filling material must be able to withstand a tensile force of 70N
Wadding must be wash tested prior to production to avoid clumping and distortion
