Yarn Examining board is used for visual inspection of textile yarn like naps, thick and thin places.
Yarn Examining Board Specification
Product Category: QC Yarn
Machine Category: Yarn
Product Name: Yarn examining board.
Product Model:According to Manufacturer
Product Class: New
Origin: Made in China / America
Brand/ Manufacturer: Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh: No/Yes
Power:380v, AC220V±10% 50HZ.Power:55W
Temperature:Normal
Certification:SGS/Others
Production Capacity:NA
Density of reeling:7,9,11,15,20/cm 20/45mm
Pressing by grade.,Seven yarn grade: 7,9,13,15,19/cm and GB/T399 standard density
Rotate speed of show board:350r/min with staples speed adjustment
Yarn Mixing
Average Micronaire of mixing should be same for entire lot & difference in average micronaire of different mixings of same lot should not be more than 0.1.
The micronaire C.V% of a mixing should be less than 10%.
The micronaire Range should be same.
Cottons with two different origins should not be mixed.
Cottons with too wide micronaire range should not be mixed.
Cottons with too wide reflectance value (Rd) and Yellowness value (+b) should not be mixed.
Immature fibre content should be lowest as it affects dyeing & results in white-specks.
If automatic bale openers are used, bale lay downs should be done properly, so that different micronaire bales & colours are getting mixed up homogeneously even if small quantity is being checked.
If manual mixing is carried out, bales should be arranged & mixed properly so that different micronaire bales & colours are getting mixed up homogeneously even if small quantity is being checked.
For manual mixing, tuft size should be as low as 10gm.
If contaminated cottons are used, the best way is to open bales into small tufts & segregate contaminants. There are mills that employ around 60-80 persons to pick up contamination from a mixing of 20tons.
Japanese insist on mixing at least 36 bales for one mixing to avoid Barre problem.
The fabric examining machine with variable speed control, overhead light (daylight bulbs) and yardage counter. The machine must be clean with no oil and sharp edges to damage the fabric.
How much fabric to inspect
The garment making factory should inspect 10% of rolls from each delivery at random this should include all colors and dyelots within a delivery. If the results show a high fault rate, then an additional 15% rolls should be inspected. If these fail, the delivery is either rejected or 100% inspected.
Procedure
At the beginning of each roll, a 6” full cutting should be taken as a color reference and checked for side-to-side and side-to-center shading.
This is labeled with fabric reference number or name, batch number, piece number, color number, color name and date.
Width of the fabric between the stenter pins must be measured and compared with the given minimum usable width.
Each roll checked must be stopped at least 3 times during inspection (beginning, middle, end). At these points, side-to-side and side-to-center shading should be assessed.
Side-to-end shading must be checked by comparing the full width cutting to a point in the roll. Also the cutable width (between the stenter pins) should be measured.
The cutable width should be recorded on the inspection report, as should any color shading detected.
Check the fabric length stated on piece ticket against the actual length of roll for variance. Record both the values.
Allotment of points on 4-point system
Flaws
Points given
Up to 3″
1
3″-6″
2
6″-9″
3
More than 9″
4
Points/yards2=Actual points counted x 36” x 100
Actual roll length Actual width
Common Defects in various points scheme
1 Point
2 Point
3 Point
4 Point
Foreign Yarn
Weaving faults
Weft Bar
Thick Yarn
Slub
Foreign Yarn
Thick Yarn
Hole
Spot
Thick Yarn
Weaving Fault
Shade Bar
Weaving Fault
Missing Yarn
Missing Bar
Dyeing Effect
Shade Bar
Missing Yarn
Naps
Thick Yarn
Apart from these defects, the fabric is also tested for shrinkage, color fastness, and the shade variation (through light box), within a roll and between two rolls.
Fabric:
1. Are all colours affected? If not which ones are? 2. How many points did the 4pt. inspection come up to? 3. Is/are the sample(s) sent representing the: – worst – average – best 4. Is/are the cutting(s) sent taken from the: – beginning – middle – end of the roll ? 5. Are all rolls or what batches are affected? 6. Is every yard affected or how often do they repeat? 7. Are the faults of this cutting typical for size & severity? 8. Based on your experience do you think the fabric is cuttable? 9. Please advise estimated loss (e.g. in percent).
In case of fabric faults please cut & send 1yd (not from the first 5yds) of 10% of the rolls but no more than 7. In case of shading please cut & send 20cm x full width (not from the first 5yds) of every roll. Garments: 1. Are all colours affected? 2. Is the shirt from bulk production? 3. Is it representing the: – worst – average – best of production ? 4. How many shirts are affected (e.g. percent)? 5. Can these faults be avoided on collar, cuff & A zone? 6. In case of shading is this caused by: – roll to roll shading and therefore mix of panels – shading within the same roll – shading of interlining
Wrap Reel Machine is used to prepare lea (120 yards) yarns for ascertaining the count strength.
Wrap Reel Machine Specification
Product Category: QC
Machine Category: Yarn
Product Name:Wrap reel.
Product Model: According to Manufacturer
Product Class: New
Origin: England
Brand/ Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Co. Ltd
Agent in Bangladesh: No/Yes
Power:380v
Temperature:Normal
Certification:SGS/Others
Production Capacity:NA
Winding Process of Yarn
Winding speed should be around 1250 meters/ min.
Machines with tension management are preferred.
Clearers settings should be as close as possible. Loephe Yarn master setting is given below:
N -4.0 (nep) :
DS-2.0 (short):
LS-1.6 (short):
DL-1.18 (long):
LL-40: (long)
-DS-14 %( thin):
-DL-40(thin)
Since loephe has a facility of class clearing. “C” is to be added in such a way that following faults which are displayed in Loephe class clearing should be cleared.
If micronaire is low, blow room process parameters become very critical like speed frame process.
It is better to do a perfect pre-opening & reduce beater speeds in fine opening. If required one more fine opener is used with as low as beater speed, instead of using very high speed in only one fine opener.
If micronaire is lower than 3.8, it is not advisable to use machines like CVT4 or CVT3.
Neps increase in cotton after blow room process should be less than 80%.(i.e 180% of raw cotton neps)
If neps increase is more, then beater speeds should be reduced instead of feed roller to beater setting.
If trash% in cotton is less & neps are more in sliver, no of beating points are reduced. 3 beating points should be more than enough.
Variation in feed roller speed should be as low as possible especially in feeding machine.
Beater types & specification should be selected properly based on beater’s positions & type of raw material (fibre mike & trash %).
The material pressure in ducts should be as high as possible to reduce feeding variation to cards.
Feed rollers in chute should work continuously without more speed variation if pressure filling concept is used. (i.e. Balancing of chute should be done properly). For others, feed roller should work at maximum speed for a longer time.
Material density between different chutes should be same & difference should not be more than 7%.
Duct pressure difference should not be more than 40 Pascal’s in chute feed system.
Air loss should be avoided in chute feed system, to reduce fan speed & material velocity.
Blow room feeding should be set in such a way that draft in cards is same for all cards & variation in feed density is as low as possible.
Fibre rupture in blow room should be less than 2.5%
Available testing facilities in LAB :
Yarn testing facilities:
Yarn count test:
Yarn twist test:
Yarn appearance test:
Finish fabric’s testing facilities:
a) Pilling test : Testing Method: ISO-12945-1:(2000) E
b) Colour Fastness to Rubbing Test : Testing Method: ISO 105X12: 1995
c) Colour Fastness to Perspiration Test : Testing Method: ISO 105-E04: 1994(E)
d) Colour Fastness To Washing : Testing Method: ISO 105-C06:(1994) E
e) Dimensional Stability To Washing: Testing Method: BS EN 26330
2A/3A/4A/5A/6A
f) Spirality Test : Testing Method:
g) Colour Deviation Report: CMC 2:1 (using by spectrophotometer, Model Spectraflash 600 PLUS-CT)
Also we’ve tested TC or CVC fabrics, using by 70% Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4).
3) Check up the strength of the basic chemical:
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2):
Acetic Acid (CH3COOH):
Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3):
Caustic Soda (NaOH):
Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4):
Hydrochloric Acid (HCl):
Some M/C Problem of Finishing Department
M/C Name: Dewater
Problem:
Camera Problem at Stretcher.
Ring wheel movement problem.
Folder adjustment problem.
Round table problem.
M/C Name: Slitting
Problem:
Automation problem of Round Table.
Automation problem of De-twister.
Camera light problem
Automatic camera problem.
Overfeed switch problem.
M/C Name: Santex Dryer.
Problem:
M/C doesn’t start at first time after cleaning 1st
Front camera problem.
Exhaust fan problem.
M/C Name: Unitech Dryer
Problem:
1st burner doesn’t show the actual temperature.
2nd burner doesn’t show the temperature.
M/C becomes stop if it run with minimum speed.
M/C Name: Stenter
Problem:
Camera problem at MAHLO.
Chain Clip Problem.
3 no burner problem.
M/C Name: Open Compactor
Problem:
Lower bowing roller problem.
Compactor monitor alarm problem.
Compactor blower problem.
Fabric Speed up-down if m/c run at high speed.
Compactor steam main line problem.
M/C Name: Tube Compactor
Problem:
Camera problem at lower felt.
Compacting vaj creates if m/c stops with alarm.
Felt emergency doesn’t work of upper felt.
Camera problem at upper felt.
Camera problem at Stretcher.
Water drop fall from steam box.
Some switch doesn’t work at monitor.
Some Fault in Quality
Joint stitch
Washing damage
Fabric fault
Side seam over lock uneven
Side seam ok
Open stitch
Loop slanting & ok
Button misplaced
Waist band width uneven
Waist band mouth closing ok
Needle mark
Pen mark
Fusing mark
Pleat at side seam
Dirty sport
Broken stitch
Curve waist band mouth
Loose tension at embroidery
Hi-low waist mouth
Zipper attach waving
Bartack ok & not ok
Poor waist band shape
Waist band shape ok
Oil mark
Twisting
Uncut thread
Waist band mouth slanted
Rawedge at mesh at in side garments
Question: How many ways temperature loss from human body?
Ans: Basically, there are four methods of temperature loss from human body. They are-
Conduction
Transmission or convection
Radiation
Perspiration
Human body losses temperature constantly by the above mention method and gain temperature from foods, through metabolic activities.
(b) Mention the human body temperature as per medical science.
Ans: As per medical science, human body core temperature should be 37°c and skin temperature should be 33°c to feel comfortable. Skin temperature may vary from place to place of human body e.g lower at lip of place and hands and highest of under arm when body temperature drops. Then skin of hand, leg, body, face etc. starts working to squeeze blood cells to protect loss of body temperature and maintain constant core temperature of body and brain at 37°c.
(c) Show the relation between TOG value and CLO value.
Ans: Loss of heat through the clothing is expressed by thermal resistance and thermal resistance is expressed by TOG value. Higher the TOG value, higher the thermal resistance means lower heat loss.
In America and some other countries thermal resistance is expressed as CLO value. The relation between TOG & CLO can be expressed as follows-
TOG value= CLO 1.55
(d) Describe the measurement of thermal resistance of clothing ( by TOG method)
Ans: Measurement of thermal resistance of clothing is a very complex process. Thermal resistance of clothing is measured by dividing the thickness of clothing by its conductivity and expressed as TOG which is one tenth of such unit. That means 1 mk/watt= 10 TOG. Higher the value of TOG, lower the heat loss through that clothing. The TOG value and CLO is related as per following equation:
TOG= CLO value 1.55
To measure the thermal resistance of clothing, TOG meter is used. With the help of following sketch the method of thermal resistance measurement is explained.
In this m/c, known temperature of heated plate is passed through the reference sample of known thermal resistance and then through the test sample.
The temperature is measured on the top surface of each layer and thermal resistance of the test sample is calculated by using the following equation.
Where, T= Lower surface temperature of reference sample
T2= Upper surface temperature of reference sample
T3= Upper surface temperature of test sample
Rs= Thermal resistance of test sample
RR= Thermal resistance of reference sample
For the above equation except Rs value, all other values are known hence thermal resistance of any clothing can be determined by using TOG meter.
Question: Write down the fabric construction for fiber fire fighting suit.
Ans: The people engaged in fire fighting needs protective clothing which can save their body and life from the affect of flame and heat. It is sometimes observed the fire fighter becomes injured or even died during fitting against fire for this reasons it is necessary for then to use protective clothing during fight against fire.
Fire fighter suit should be made from three ply fabric:
Outer ply fabric: Outer ply fabric should be flame retardant. Outer lays fabric may be made from aramid fiber, blend of aramid and Novoloid fibre, flame retardant cotton or woolen fiber.
Middle ply fabric: Middle ply fabric should be vapour barrier. It is made of coarse and brushed woolen, works as heat resistant.
Inner ply fabric: Inner ply fabric should be thermal barrier. It works as lining made of light weight cotton fabric.
(b) Describe the fabrics/clothing for coal miners.
Ans: Clothing for the coal miners should be having flame resistant property. Fabrics suitable for this purpose has been developed by IJIRA (Indian Jute Industries Research Association). This fabric is made of jute fibers as per ISO specification 4355-1997 and satisfied all requirements.
This types of fabrics are finished with flame retardant finishing agents. The fabric is normally 183 to 274 cm wide, compactly woven and low air permeability property and this fabric is finished with urea phosphate by pad dry cure method.
This above specified fabric is used for making clothing for the coal miners, have been considered save, comfortable and effective.
(c) Show the effect of fabric construction and garments characteristics on thermal protection.
Ans: Fabric construction and fabric weight plays an important role on the effectiveness of clothing used for different purpose. Higher the thickness of clothing higher the protective index. In the following graph the protective index is shown below
From the graph it is clear that for any fixed weight of fabric (gm/m2) the heat protect index incase with the increase of fabric thickness. It is also clear that for any fixed weight of fabric per square meters. Multilayer fabric shows higher protection performance than single layer fabric.
Fabric structure is also related with heat resistant properly of the clothing. For a fixed weight of fabric (gm/m2) satin and twill weave structure shows better heat resistant property than the plain weave fabric.
Yarn construction of the fabric is also related with heat resistant property of the clothing. Clothing made from more twisted yarn shows better heat resistant property than the clothing made from less twist yarn. The reason behind it is that the heat or flame cannot damage the yarn easily made by more twist method.
Dr. William Jons, Textile Technologist, Osaka Textile Division, Germany
Function: This Wrap block instrument is used to measurement the desired length of slivers and roving for the determination of their hank or linear density. This is a machine is used in qc department
Description: These automatic wrap block fabric inspection machine is designed to measure sliver accurately and roving to determine hanks. The measuring surface is ground and highly polished. A reset able digital counter activated by drive shaft records the length of the sliver passed through the drum. The drum circumference of Wrap block is 1 yard with 14″ width, which facilities accommodation of roving up to 12″ lift.
The quantity of fabric needed for making a garment is called fabric consumption for costing. It is difficult to know the actual consumption before completion of marker planning but we can get an approximate fabric consumption from sample.
Fabric consumption is calculated by two process :
From marker ( it is more accurate)
From measurement or mathematical system ( it is approximate)
How to calculate fabric consumption from marker?
For example, if we have got 12 pcs marker and we know that markers needed fabric is 25 yds and one time we lay 200 ply. So how much time to lay and what is the actual fabric consumption for 1000 dozen of garments?
Solution :
One time lay, we can get, 200 X 12 = 2,400 Pcs.
Here, total garments, 1000 dozen = 12 X 1000 = 12,000 Pcs.
Lay time = 12,000 ÷ 2,400 = 5 times lay.
Fabric consumption for 1000 dozen garments = 5 X 200 X 25 = 1000 X 25 = 25,000 yds.
If wastage is 3% then actual fabric consumption = 25,000 + 3% = 25,000+750 = 25,750 yds..
International Fabric Width :
Internationally fabric having five types of width for woven fabrics 35”, 40”, 45”, 50”, 60”.
International Size Grading :
Infant baby = 1-2-3 years, Size : 1-2-3
Toddlers = 4-5-6 years, Size : 4-5-6
Boys & girls = 6-16 years, Size : 6-8/S, 9-11/M, 12-14/L, 15-16/XL, 16+/XXL .
Basic Information Relevant to Consumption :
Measurement with technical specification
Style description
Fabric description
Fabric length or weight and width
Washing shrinkage.
Fabric consumption per dozen of a full shirt:
Considering medium size (M) for calculation-
Body Section:
(body length+allowance) X (1/2 chest+allowance) X 2
= ( 74cm+5cm) X (55cm+5cm) X 2 = 79cm X 60cm X 2 = 9480 sq. cm.
Sleeve Section:
(sleeve length+allowance) X (arm hole straight+allowance) X 2 X 2
=(65cm+4cm) X (23cm+3cm) X 4 = 69 cm X 26cm X 4 = 7176 sq. cm.
Collar & Collar Band:
(collar band length+allowance) X (collar band+collar point+allowance) X 2
=(41cm+3cm) X (3cm+7cm+4cm) X 2 = 44cm X 14cm X 2 = 1232 sq. cm.
Pocket:
(pocket length+allowance) X (pocket width+allowance)
=(14cm+3cm) X (12cm+2cm) = 17cm X 14cm = 238 sq. cm.
Extra Yoke:
(shoulder across+allowance) X (yoke height+allowance)
= (48cm+4cm) X (11.5cm+4cm) = 52cm X 15.5cm =806 sq.com.
