Feed of the Arm is Chain Stitch Sewing Machine

Feed of the Arm

Feed of the arm machine is actually a chain stitch machine for chain stitch designs working with sew and stitch. It contains looper instead of bobbin. By this machine, multi thread chainstitch can be produced on garments. By this machine, stitch can be produced on heavy fabrics, like denim or jeans; it has opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics. Different sizes of needle and thread dresses should be used in this machine depending on the thickness of fabric, for light thickness fabrics needle size should be lower and for heavy thickness fabric, higher needle size should be be used.

Needle and Thread Dresses  Function :

For sewing light or heavy fabrics i.e. all kinds of side seam specially in the trouser side-seam are sewing by this machine. Needle is very important parts of this machine. needle and thread dresses of this machine should check regular interval for better performance sewing.

Parts of Sewing Machine with Label:

Parts of sewing machine with label is listed here-

• Machine pulley
• Presser foot
• Front cover
• Looper
• Needle bar
• Upper thread guide
• Thread take up cover
• Finger guard
• Pulley cover
• Needle and thread dresses

Features of the Machine including Sew and Stitch:

• Multi thread chain can be formed by this machine.
• It has opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics.
• Needle thread is interconnected with looper thread.
• Feed of the arm is exact chainstitch sewing machine
• Its appearance is difference in face and back side.
• Adjustable sewing machine sew and stitch
• Sewing machine needle sizes should be well fitted.

Procedure for Broken Needle:

Broken / Used needle record form, helps to identity the problem in production like sewer’s handling, the machine itself, the incompatibility needle to the fabric or needle to machine if there is a consistent return of needles within a couple of hours of production.

Steps to set up a strict needle policy:

• Each operator is only entitled to the number of needle required to the machine ( i.e. single needle lock stitch need only 1(one) needle or double needle lock stitch machine need 2(two) needle to operate). No needle in process of operator except needle required during the first implementation of this policy.
• Each line should have a person to issue and collect used / completed whenever broken needle  replacement is required.
• If during the operation a needle is broken it is a must for the line supervisor and operator to collect all the garments surrounding the machine and have it placed separately.
• This bundle of garments should be properly checked or scrutinize under magnifying glass or by using a big magnets should pass on each pieces of garments. If broken pieces of needles are found, garments should pass through a metal / needle detector machine to ensure that it is free of needle. If not found then the whole bundle should be properly put inside the metal contaminated  or disposal box for burning.

• Designated person is now allowed to issue new needle after the above instruction have been carried out satisfactory.
• All parts of a broken needle or used must be taped onto the report form immediately after exchange has taken place.
• This policy must be strictly implemented because broken bites of needle found in garments may cause cancellation of order.
• Broken / Used needle record must be return to acc. store for issuance of needle replacement if not they are not entitled for the issuance of needle replacement.

• Please check old confirm all parts of broken needle are available.
• If yes provide new needle keep and pest broken needle with all parts.
• Keep record and document properly.
• If any parts of broken needle are not found then.
• Go for the metal detection for the whole bundle.
• If found then –
• Replace needle by taking parts and placing in the broken needle register.
• Keep record and document properly.
• If not found then –Tell all concerned the need for their extra
• Care. Issue the new needle in place available
• Components of broken needle register.
• Stop production at that machine. Search the area. If no found with conveyor belt m/c detector. This bundle destroys and photograph should be taken.
• Idle m/c should be needle free, before keeping m/c in idle, open needle and should be deposited to needle keeper and he/she will issue needle at the time of installing m/c in the line.

Specification of Chain Stitch Sewing Machine :

Specification of chain stitch sewing machine is shorted below –

Specifications Name	Specifications Value
Product Category	Sewing
Machine Category	Chain stitch sewing machine
Product Name	singer sewing machine
Product Model	According to Manufacturer
Product Class	New
Origin	China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer	Name of Manufacturer
Agent in Bangladesh	No/Yes
Power	380v
Temperature	Normal
Certification	SGS/Others
Production Capacity	NA
Group	Chainstitch
Stitch per minute	5000-6000
Needle size	9,11,14,16,18,20,21
Thread per inch	8”
No of needle	2 needles
No of looper	2 loopers
Seam class	400
Description	Chain stitch sewing machine needle sizes should be same.

Feed of the Arm Chain Stitch Sewing Machine :

Sewing m/c maintenance check list

Sl. No.	Check point (s )	Corrective action (s)
01	Check the lubrication system.   The m/c pulley oil amount & the oil wick. Oil level. Oil circulation. Oil condition.	If the amount in m/c pulley is less add oil.
02	Check the feed dog, needle plate and the presser foot.	If the feed dog is worn out replace it.
03	Check the lopper holder lopper bracket, needle guard.	If the needle guard is damaged replace / repair it.
04	Cleanliness.	Remove the face cover and clean it.
05	Check the safety devices take-up lever cover, belt cover.	Ensure the availability of safety devices of the m/c.
06	Check the electrical wiring, electrical motors clutch etc.	If the motor sounds abnormally, replace the bearings and the cork of the clutch.

Needle Gause Specification:

Needle	Nominal outer diameter	Nominal inner diameter	Nominal wall thickness
Gauge	inches	mm	tol. inches (mm)	inches	mm	tol. inches (mm)	inches	mm	tol. inches (mm)
7	0.180	4.572	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.150	3.810	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.015	0.381	±0.001 (±0.025)
8	0.165	4.191	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.135	3.429	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.015	0.381	±0.001 (±0.025)
9	0.148	3.759	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.118	2.997	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.015	0.381	±0.001 (±0.025)
10	0.134	3.404	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.106	2.692	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.014	0.356	±0.001 (±0.025)
11	0.120	3.048	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.094	2.388	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.013	0.330	±0.001 (±0.025)
12	0.109	2.769	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.085	2.159	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.012	0.305	±0.001 (±0.025)
13	0.095	2.413	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.071	1.803	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.012	0.305	±0.001 (±0.025)
14	0.083	2.108	±0.001 (±0.025)	0.063	1.600	±0.003 (±0.076)	0.01	0.254	±0.001 (±0.025)
15	0.072	1.829	±0.0005 (±0.013)	0.054	1.372	±0.0015 (±0.038)	0.009	0.229	±0.0005 (±0.013)
16	0.065	1.651	±0.0005 (±0.013)	0.047	1.194	±0.0015 (±0.038)	0.009	0.229	±0.0005 (±0.013)
17	0.058	1.473	±0.0005 (±0.013)	0.042	1.067	±0.0015 (±0.038)	0.008	0.203	±0.0005 (±0.013)
18	0.050	1.270	±0.0005 (±0.013)	0.033	0.838	±0.0015 (±0.038)	0.0085	0.216	±0.0005 (±0.013)
19	0.042	1.067	±0.0005 (±0.013)	0.027	0.686	±0.0015 (±0.038)	0.0075	0.191	±0.0005 (±0.013)
20	0.03575	0.9081	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.02375	0.603	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.006	0.1524	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
21	0.03225	0.8192	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.02025	0.514	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.006	0.1524	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
22	0.02825	0.7176	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.01625	0.413	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.006	0.1524	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
22s	0.02825	0.7176	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.006	0.152	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.0111	0.2826	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
23	0.02525	0.6414	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.01325	0.337	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.006	0.1524	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
24	0.02225	0.5652	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.01225	0.311	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.005	0.1270	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
25	0.02025	0.5144	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.01025	0.260	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.005	0.1270	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
26	0.01825	0.4636	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.01025	0.260	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.004	0.1016	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
26s	0.01865	0.4737	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.005	0.127	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.0068	0.1734	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
27	0.01625	0.4128	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00825	0.210	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.004	0.1016	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
28	0.01425	0.3620	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00725	0.184	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.0035	0.0889	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
29	0.01325	0.3366	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00725	0.184	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.003	0.0762	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
30	0.01225	0.3112	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00625	0.159	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.003	0.0762	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
31	0.01025	0.2604	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00525	0.133	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.0025	0.0635	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
32	0.00925	0.2350	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00425	0.108	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.0025	0.0635	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
33	0.00825	0.2096	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00425	0.108	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.002	0.0508	±0.00025 (±0.0064)
34	0.00725	0.1842	±0.00025 (±0.0064)	0.00325	0.0826	±0.00075 (±0.019)	0.002	0.0508	±0.00025 (±0.0064)

Safety for Chain Stitch Sewing Machine:

Please turn of the power switch or disconnected it for any one of the circumstances of the followings –

• When threading needles, adjusting thread take-ups, thread guides, and replacing bobbins.
• When replacing needles, presser feet, needle plates, feed dogs, needle guards, horns, coth guides and other parts or accessories
• Do not use power tools where there is risk to cause any fire or explosion.
• When repairing the chain stitch sewing machine
• When the operator leaves the working place or leaves the machine unattended
• It clutch motors without brake pads are used, must wait until the motor stops completely.

[1] Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com