Fabric Trim
The raw materials like fabric and lace is used in sewing room other than fabric are called fabric trim. Another way it can be said that trimmings materials are openly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called fabric trim. Must have no loose/ uncut threads left on the final product, neither on inside or outside, 3-5 mm is accepted
Fabric Trim for Children:
A small part is a component that fits entirely within the testing cylinder by its own weight, i.e. without forcing it. A small part includes, but is not limited to, buttons, press buttons, zipper pullers, buckles, sliders, 3D appliqués and other attached trims. All parts that possibly could become a small part must be tested, for instance all individual parts of a zipper. Flat components only made from textile are not considered small parts. If a textile component is 3D however, for example by having a knot or being stuffed with polyester filling, it will be considered a small part. Note that leather and PU is not considered textile. All small parts must be securely fastened, before and after normal use and abuse. They must withstand a 90 Newton pull force when the largest accessible dimension is greater than 6 mm or 70 Newton pull force when the largest accessible dimension is less than or equal to 6 mm.
Lace Trim:
Generally lace trim is designed for blouses, dresses, skirts etc.
List of Fabric Trimmings :
- Twill Tape for fabric
- Padding
- Interlining
- Buttons
- Zippers
- Down
- Elastic
- Labels
- Thread
- Buckle
- Rivet
- Weaving Belt
- Hook and Eye
- Swivel Hook
- Eyelet
- Collar Stay
- Cord Bell
- Velcro Tape
- Seam Sealing tape
- Shoulder pad
- Cable
- Adjuster
- Recco
- Cloth Measuring Tape
- Elastic Threads for fabric
- Shoulder Tape for trimming
- Stopper for trimmings
- String
- Piping Cord
- Emblem
- Logo Print
Manufacturing Requirements of Trims:
Lace Trim – Labels
- Must not change colour and have readable text after wash or other treatments
- Must if there is a risk for cross staining, discoloration or damage of the label, after wash or treatments, this should be prevented by either;
- Must cover the label by plastic before treatment/ wash
- Must attach the lace trim label in the product after the treatment/ wash
- Must cotton neck label on Baby & Children garments must be sewn on with no possibility of label to unravel.
Fabric Trim – Zipper
- Must be suitable for the product/ material/ treatment and wash
- Must be in correct length/ type/ quality/ colour, according to the order specification
- Must have a slider that is easy to pull up and down, and stays clear of seam
- Must have auto lock or semi lock for bottoms
- Must have plastic stoppers on cord fitted coil zippers
- Must avoid fabric damage/ puckering when inserting zip
- Must not use a concealed/ invisible/ hidden zipper on: tight fitted products, o stretch fabric on tight fitted products, o uneven layer or thick layer of fabric
Zipper Requirements for Children
- All zippers must meet the requirements of “H&M Quality Standards and Requirements (QS&R)”.
- Puller attachments that are shaped, filled or made of any other material than a plain woven tape must withstand 90 N pull force test, and also fulfil the “resistance to twist of pull and slider” test. Totally flat zip pullers only made of fabric tape do not have to be tested.
- All parts of the zipper must be checked for sharp edges and sharp points.
- All parts attached to the zipper must never break or disassemble.
- All garments with a metal zipper must have a zipper guard facing the body in order to prevent injury.
- Styles with a zip fly must have a zipper guard firmly secured at the bottom.
- This is valid for all types of zippers; metal, plastic and nylon.
- Concealed (invisible) zipper is OK to use if a zipper guard is used.
- If attached puller is totally flat, only made of fabric tape should be securely stitched and have a maximum length of 7,5 cm in total including the actual metal puller. Note – on the back of garment it is not allowed to have any extra attachments to zip pullers.
- If using a ring puller the hole in the ring shall be under 5 mm or over 12 mm to be safe and avoid risk of entrapment.
- Metal zipper not recommended, however each style to be risk assessed. For trousers with zip fly it could be OK.
- A zipper “fold over” on the top of zipper is strongly recommended to avoid the neck of the child to be pinched.
- All parts of the zipper must be tested to withstand 90 N pull force test.
- Glued on 3D endings of zip pullers are not allowed as they cannot be secured.
Lace Trim – Elastic
Elasticised cuffs that are too tight can cause reduction in blood flow to hands or feet. The elastic must not be too tight or too strong and it is of particular concern in baby’s wear. Elastics must never be used as cords close to the face. Elastics which have direct body contact should be soft brushed. Exception for adjustable elastics inside trousers where this is not needed.
- Must be suitable for the material/ product/ treatment and wash
- Must have suitable elasticity
- Must be in a quality that retains elasticity
- Must be pre shrunk
- Must be relaxed at least 24 hours prior to production
- Must have heat cut edges when necessary
Shoulder pad/ sleeve head roller
- Must be suitable for the product/ treatment and wash
- Must be correctly positioned, according to instructions
- Must have the correct size/ shape/ grading/ quality, according to instructions
- Must be covered on unlined garment with e.g. shell fabric/ matching lining, if no other instruction has been given
Lace Trim – Collar
Must have the fusing attached to the correct side of collar depending on material/ style/instructions
Placket
- Must be properly stitched,
- Must be straight and even
- Must cover under part
Dart
- Must have correct shape
- Must have correct length
- Must have no puckering at dart point/ end
- Must have 1.5 – 2 cm of threads left at dart point/ end when trimming the inside
- Must be symmetrically placed, if no other instruction has been given
Fabric Trim – Hanger loop for Children
Hanger loops inside garments for the purpose of keeping the garment on the hanger, shall be as short as possible. Sizes 44-134: maximum 20 cm in circumference. Sizes 140-170: maximum 40 cm in circumference. Exception: Korea = maximum 7.5 cm in circumference (44-170)
- Must be suitable for the fabric/ product/ treatment and wash
- Must be correctly attached, according to the instructions
- Must be colour fast
Fabric Trim – Buttons for Children
- Buttons must be securely attached by machine lock stitch. Recommended to use poly/poly core spun yarn.
- Buttons should not break causing sharp edges. Shell and mother of pearl is not allowed. When sing resin based plastic this must be evaluated carefully as this plastic could be very brittle and become sharp when broken.
- 2-hole buttons are better than 4-hole button because the middle part of a 4-hole button can become rather weak, depending on hole size. Exception for some thin fabrics where a 4-hole button grasp both warp and weft which makes attachment stronger, which could then be a reason for choosing a 4-hole rather than a 2-hole button.
Additional requirements for size 44 up to and including size 98
- Buttons to be securely attached by machine lock stitch. Must withstand 90 Npull force test.
- Shank buttons (loop buttons) are only allowed if they are machine stitched.
- Multi component buttons are not recommended unless they can be ensured not to break and fall apart.
- Duffle button/toggle button are not allowed due to its hazardous shape.
Button sewn on inside waistline, not showing on the outside.
When having a button at inside waistline, for adjustable elastics, the button has to be sewn through all layers of fabric, and fusing, otherwise the fabric might break and the button will come out at low pull force. Also the button could come through the fabric together with the button when doing the pull force test.
Press buttons, jean buttons, rivets, eyelets
- Press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets must not have any sharp edges or sharp points.
- The attaching machine as well as the press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets should be of a well-known brand. It is essential to consult the button suppliers for advice on both the appropriate choice of buttons and machinery for each individual order.
- Press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets for counter samples must be attached with the same type of machine that will be used for production.
- Upper and lower parts must be aligned for perfect matching when closed.
- Even layer of fabric is very important to secure attachment of press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets.
- No nipple rivets on back area of garments below waist as these can damage sofas, car seats, floors etc.
Additional requirements for size 44 up to and including size 98
- All press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets must withstand 90 N pull force test. As a safer option consider using embroidered eyelets instead of metal eyelets.
- Attaching buttons on top of fake buttonholes creates uneven layers, and is a high risk of buttons coming off.
- Take special care when attaching eyelets on stretchy material. Use plastic washer or woven reinforcement.
- Press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets and eyelets must never break or disassemble.
- It is NOT allowed to repress press buttons, jeans buttons, rivets or eyelets that are already produced and have failed the pull force test
Embellishments, Bows (Lace Tream)
- All decorations must be firmly stitched, it is not enough only with adhesive /glue.
- All decorations must be checked for sharp edges and sharp points.
- Decorations must never break or disassemble.
- Bows should be adequately finished to prevent the ends from unravelling. A knot is not acceptable.
- The tail of fixed bows should not exceed 7,5 cm in length. The bow loop should not exceed 7,5 cm in circumference.
- Placement of bow is critical as the tails are considered cords and could be an entrapment and strangulation hazard. Head, neck and upper chest area, as well as back area are especially critical. Bows with tails not allowed on hoods or at back of neck. Please refer to chapter 4 for restrictions.
- Bigger bows for decorations are OK if stitched all the way around.
Additional requirements for size 44 up to and including size 98
3D textile components, for example by having a knot or being stuffed with filling, will be considered small parts, and need to withstand 90 N pull force test. Where bows or other decorations are attached, there must always be a woven reinforcement on the back of the fabric, to prevent the fabric from tearing or decoration to detach.
Pompoms and tassels
- Below requirements concern size 44 up to and including size 98
- Pompoms that fit into the small parts cylinder by its own weight, must withstand
- 90 N pull force test.
- If pompom or tassel is made from loose yarn – then make sure there is no fibre shedding issues. Untwisted or slightly twisted yarns must not be used for sizes upto and including size 80.
Garments Accessories are the another related term of fabric trim.
[1] S. M. Bappy Rana, B.Sc.in Textile Engineering, BUBT
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