Fusing Machine for Garments

Fusing machine for garments is very much important to maintain the quality of the products.Fusing press machine for garments is very much important to maintain the quality of the products. The press machine carries out fusing by holding the fabric & the interlining between the conveyor belts while heating. The pieces are then pressed by rollers at the outlet. The required fusing temperature is achieved by bringing the belt into contact with the heating elements

Each day before start of production, the pressure on the left, rihgt and center of the rollers shall be checked by means of the light weight woven fabric strips. One of the strip shall be passed through the T Shirt Heat Press Machine for garments while holding the other and tight. When the end passes out of the press, the strip will be pull to feel the pressure of the rollers.

When we start any order in the sewing floor. We make sure fusing machine parts of the garments. At first we collect the data sheet from the supplier. According to data sheet (like: pressure    time: temperature) we adjust the m/c. After adjusting the m/c we check the m/c (1) thermo paper (2) thermo meter. We check the fusing   m/c by thermo meter two times in a day that means after lunch and before lunch against every order according  to data sheet. 3.bond strength test machine: we doing bond test when test the machine (after lunch before lunch)

Follow the machine direction or warp direction cut the interlining 17 cm x 7 cm.

1 kg  = 9.81 newton.

1 kg  = 1000 gram

Check Point Fusing Machine

• check the physical condition of the pressure roller.
• check the set temperature of the heater, by using a thermal strip at different areas of the rubber roller.
• check the pressure exerted by the pressure roller of fusing machine for garments
• for a flat bed fusing m/c check the bed at different zones.
• check for all electrical connections.
• check the solid state relay switch
• Proper personal protective equipment i.e. gloves, visors, and aprons must be used.
• This machine is used in high temperature, so pay attention to your hands and clothes not to be burned.
• Always wait until the machine is fully stationary.
• Do not push finger/ hand through the heated chamber.
• Avoid wearing loose wears.
• First aid equipment such as first aid kit, stretcher, and dressing material box must be stationed in the vicinity.
• Carefully observe announce location and operation of fire extinguishers.
• Do not operate the equipment in the presence of flammable gases or fumes.
• Switch off the fusing machine.
• After maintenance work always tighten released screw, nut-bolt connections.
• Do not use compressed air on electric and electronic parts directly.
• Confirm that the power plug is properly connected.
• Pay sufficient attention not to make contact with the belt and the upper cover whose temperature rises high nor mount things on them.
• Don’t put anything to the main unit of the press except the materials to be inserted.

Classification of fusing:

• Top fusing
• Semi fusing
• Non fused

Corrective Action For Fusing Machine

• if the roller is found too hard of bubble inside the roller, repair it or replace it.
• if the obtained temperature varies beyond 10 c check the thermocouple of the m/c also the magnetic contractor.
• Clean the whole machine.
• Check and clean the belt with a dried floor cloth when the operation is over.
• Raise the scraper three or four times a day in order to clean.
• Inspect the belt cleaner.
• Wipe off dusts using a dry floor mat, before inserting the material.
• Clean and oil the guides and bearings.
• Check all the screw & nut & Bolt.
• Check and put oil if necessary on the upper and lower belt.
• Check the electrical wiring system.
• Check the machine for visual damages.
• pass a long fabric between two rollers and pull the fabric by hand & feel the pressure.
• if the bed becomes defored, change the bed cushion / foam of the m/c.
• take necessary actions for loose connections of wirngs etc.
• if the solid state relay does not work take n/a and maintain the fusing machine

Some common fusing problem:

• Gum at collar, cuff, Flap, etc.
• Crease mark
• Fabric fault
• Dust / Stain Mark
• Foreign Thread
• Bauble at collar, cuff, flap, etc

Fusing Machine Operating Procedure

• Each day before start of production, the pressure on the left, right and center of the rollers shall be checked by means of the lightweight woven fabric strips. One of the strip shall be passed through the fusing press and while holding the other end tight. When the end passes out of the press, the strip will be pull to feel the pressure of the rollers.
• The Fusing machine will be set to conditions recommended for Fusing of the fabric type.
• The conveyor belts shall be checked. If there is any adhesive residue contaminating the belts, it will rub off with a soft cloth.
• The cover of the cleaning bars will be Turn or changed, depending on how dirty they are. The scraper blades will be cleaned with a cloth.
• Once the Fusing machine is ready for operation, the inter-lining will be set in proper position of the fabric, the appropriate time will be set and a test run through the machine will be made.

• After the test run, the fabric will be checked for proper fusing by the QC manager. If the proper fusing condition has been achieved, The QC manager will approve the fused part with signature and temperature setting and the process will continue, otherwise adjustments shall be made to temperature and timing to obtain proper fusing. After that, upon approval of the QC manager the fusing shall commence.

Fusing: Fusing is the process of joining interlining with the fabric. The interlining contains adhesive, which melts at a specific temperature (Glue Line Temperature) and Pressure to make bond with the Fabric.

Importance of Fusing: Fusing is one of the most important processes involved in apparel manufacturing which affects the appearance of the garment. It also provides support and strength to the specific parts of the garment.

Parameters for Fusing: There are three parameters involved in the fusing process:

1. Fusing Temperature
2. Fusing Pressure
3. Fusing Time

Initial Procedure: In the Tech Pack, buyer provides the details about the type of interlining to be used and also the quality standards to be maintained.

As per the details mentioned in the Tech Pack, the respective merchandiser communicates with the suppliers for getting the interlining.

The supplier provides the details of the interlining along with Test Report. This Test Report contains the details of the M/C in which the test was done along with the Temperature, Pressure and Time to achieve the Glue Line temperature.

The Technical GM goes through the Test Report along with the details provided in the Tech Pack. He provides the instructions to the Cutting Department to follow during fusing.

Fusing Procedure: The temperature, pressure and time of the Fusing M/C is set as per the instructions received during the Technical Meeting.

Thermo-strip is inserted in the M/C to achieve the Glue Line Temperature (Actual Fusing Temperature). This process is done twice a day; once in the morning 8:10 AM after starting the M/C and once in the afternoon (45 min after lunch).

Once the Glue Line temperature is achieved, Fusing for 10 Pcs (Mock Ups) is done.

2 Pcs are sent to the Lab for testing the Bond strength. This test is done by the Lab In-charge using the following M/C: OHBA SIKI JAPAN.

8 Pcs are sent to the Washing Department, to observe the effects after wash. The after wash Pcs are checked for bubbling, stain marks and strength.

The results from Lab and Washing is sent to the Technical GM. If the results are OK, approval for Bulk Fusing is given. If any deviation is observed, the Technical GM finalizes the correction for the temperature, pressure and time and communicates to the respective GM.

The cutting department follows the instructions provided by the Technical GM to achieve the Buyer Required Standards.

Requirements of Temperature, Pressure and Time for Commonly Used Interlinings:

M/C Type                                            Temperature                Pressure           Time

OLD Machines                                   150 Degrees C                        2 Kg                15 Sec

New M/C (HASHIMA HP900LC)    120 Degrees C                        1.5 Kg             12.5 Sec

Requirements of Temperature and Pressure for KOHLS VT 20SP Interlining:

M/C Type                                            Temperature                Pressure           Time

New M/C (HASHIMA HP900LC)    100 Degrees C                        2.5 Kg             12 Sec

Reports in Fusing Section: Two reports are being made in the Fusing Section:

1. Fusing M/C Temp & Pressure Checking Report:

This report contains Thermostrip along with Fabric swatch. This report needs to be filled up two times a day (before starting fusing in morning & before starting fusing after lunch).

1. Fusing M/C Clean Report:

This report is filled up 3 times a day (10:00 AM, 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM).

Classification of Interlining Fabric

• jersey
• paper fused / paper non fused
• cotton fused / cotton non fused
• polyester fused / polyester non fused
• Tc interlining (non fused)

Features of the interlining fabric

• It’s used for front fuse.
• The excellent hand feel and appearancewill keep good sharp.
• Hard hand feeling, superior elastic resilience used For high quality men’s suits
• Shrink-resistant, good stretch ability and very comfortable.
• Can be washed in any condition:
• Water-washing and dry washing.
• soft hand feeling, best water and oil

Selection of Interlining Fabric

• Right Interlining for right fabric
• Fabric thickness, GSM, Construction, Composition
• Fusible, Non fusible, Woven, Non Woven doted etc
• Product category

Fusing test-Bonding

Bond strength – or the sturdiness of the seal between the fusible interlining and the fabric – should be evaluated after fusing, and after washing or dry cleaning, depending on the recommended care of the garment

A basic idea about fusing:

Cuff, Collar, Flap, Epulate, Band

Fabric Description	Lining Description	Required temperature	Required speed/ time	Required  presser
100 % Cotton	Cotton	160-170	10-12	2-2.5 Kg
100 % Cotton	Paper	130-140	10-12	1 Kg
100% Polyester	Paper	Adjust able in test	10-12	Adjust able in test
100% Polyester	Cotton	Adjust able in test	10-12	Adjust able in test
68% Cotton,   27% polyester, 5% Elaston	paper	130-140	10-12	1 Kg

Note: – * if lining is thick then it needs to adjust less heat and time.

* If lining is thin then it needs to adjust more heat and time.

Fabric Description	Lining Description	Required temperature	Required speed/ time	Required  presser
100 % Cotton	Cotton	180-185	18-22	8-10 Kg
100% Polyester	Cotton	Adjust able in test	Adjust able in test	Adjust able in test
Almost of order at front placket lining is used cotton lining.

Note: – These above information always not correct but this is a basic idea that can follow. After testing according to fabric and lining nature speed, temperature, presser should be set up.

Preparation for Fusing Press Machine

• Select right fusing press machine
• Fusing press machine Calibration
• Find require temperature, pressure, speed & time
• Test for bonding test, Thermal paper test, & wash test
• Interlining shouldn’t be bigger than fabric to avoid the gluing
• Clean fusing press machine belt

Engr. Kh. Mashiur Rahman, Garments Auto Machine Technologist, Web:www.autogarment.com, Email: autogarments@gmail.com, Cell: +88 017 92 52 53 54