Tensile Strength of Bra Hooks Bra Rings and Sliders

Tensile Strength of Bra Hooks

This In House Test Method of bra sliders, bra hooks and bra rings describes the method of test in order to determine the tensile strength. These are: bra rings and sliders used to adjust the length of the strap, rings used to attach the strap to the bra and hooks used on detachable bra straps. The correct numbers of test specimens are to be prepared and tested as specified within this test method in order to achieve a performance assessment of the product/fabric as described within the scope. Bara hooks, Bra rings and sliders are the garments accessories 

Equipment

Constant rate of extension tensile testing instrument with a minimum load capacity of 500N (50kg). 100% Polyester or 100% cotton tape in widths 10mm, 15mm 20mm or 25mm as appropriate to the internal width of the component.  Impact resistant safety glasses or goggles.

Conditioning

The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% Relative Humidity (RH) +/- 2% and 20°C +/- 2°C for a minimum of 4 hours. All tests should also be carried out in this atmosphere.

Health & Safety

Safety glasses should be worn when carrying out this test and care should be taken when loading the sample into the jaws.

Test Procedure

• The test speed is 200mm per minute.
• Flat rubber faced clamps are used on the front and rear to give a minimum surface area of 25mm x 25mm when the clamps are closed.
• Set the load range to 50Kg.
• Set the gauge length as appropriate to the test specimens and slack mount in the jaws.
• Set the cross head in action and take the sample to break.

Assessment/Results Of Tested Specimens

• Report the test method number and title.
• Report the individual results for each component in Newtons.
• If the results exceed 500N, then state this.
• If the tape breaks, then report the result as exceeds the force at which the tape broke.
• In some instances the bra hooks may distort to the extent that the tape slides off. If this happens report:
• Bra hooks distorted and allowed the strap to slide off and the force at which this occurred.

GARMENT DEFECT GUIDELINES

The following list defines the types of manufacturing defects for which the garment supplier is responsible:

FABRIC

• Holes,dropped stitches
• Permanent creases
• Slub and knots
• Shaded or not ( within specified shade range )
• Soil / oil spots
• Skewed,bowed or biased fabric
• Dye spots,streaks or smears
• Pilling
• Poor hand ( too hard or too soft)
• Not cut on grain
• Nap not as specified
• Knitted in,foreign or colored thread (off color fly)
• Snags, pulls in fabric
• Mismatched laid or stripe
• Weak fabric

 BODY MEASUREMENT

• Exceeding sewing tolerances

SEWING

• Stitches per cms
• Unauthorized stitches
• Wrong stitches
• Open seams
• Raw edges
• Run-offs
• Needle holes
• Stitch tension
  • Weak stitches due to loose stitches
  • Chainstitch raveling due to skipped stitches
  • needle or looper / bobin thread size too heavy or too light for proper stitch formation

• Beaded stitching
• Drifting stitch line
• Foreign objects imbedded in seams or fabric
• Mismatched seams (yoke stitching,etc )
• Roped seam
• Blind stitching
• Any omitted sewing operation

COMPONENTS

• Defective components
• Defects of assembly (example;crushed snaps)
• Any components not cut in accordance with directional (grain) lines on pattern or specified requirements ( such as stripe or pattern matching )
• Sagging,twisted or bulging sleeves or legs
• Hem or sleeve too short caused by incorrect lining size or positioning
• Lining too large or too small

BARTACKS / BUTTONHOLES

• Any missing bartack/ buttonholes
• Any bartack/buttonhole not of specified length
• Any bartack/ buttonholes that misplaced,not serving intended purpose or inappropriate for type of fabric or garment use
• Any unsecured bartack
• Any bartack/ buttonhole with loose stitch tension
• Any bartack the width of which is more than 2mm wider than specified
• Any bartack/buttonhole in wrong direction

SEAMS

• Seam repair – sufficiently obvious
• Seam twisted,puckered pleated or wavy
• Seam crossover matching
• Any part of garment or fabric caught in an unrelated operation or stitching
• Thread color does not match color specified on approved spec.document
• Thread break sor ends of stitching not securely back tacked
• Irregular gauge of stitching
• Stitches skipped or broken
• Raw edges ,unfinished hems or seams
• Run-offs on edge of topstitching
• Stay or holding stitching not removed
• Inappropriate seam or stitch type ,not as specified in the Spec Pack
• Vertical stripe alignment
• Horizontal stripe /plaid alignment
• Gathers or shirring
  • Even from side to side of the garment
  • No visible basting stich
    • Spirality (torque,twisted side seams,plackets )
    • Uneven inseam length
    • Uneven sleeve length
    • Looper thread / bobbin thread must match fabric or topstitching color unless otherwise specified
    • Any line of stitching omitted or not beginning or ending where specified

GARMENT

• Pockets even,sewn on straight,properly aligned,no raw edges peeking out
• Pocket fabric other than specified affecting the appearance or service
• Linings not falling straight and twisting in the sleeve
• Armhole curves not smooth
• Check symmetry of garment
• Cuffs even
• Elastic case stitching even
• Check that the stitch construction /stitch type or fabric construction matches approved sample
• Check for excessive lint trapped in the fabric
• Sweater weight-using a sweater scale ,make sure that the weights of the sweaters are + / – 5% of the specified weight unless otherwise listed in the dossier
• Verify neck stretch as specified in the dossier
• Full fashion marks on sweaters correctly placed
• No wavy zipper fronts
• No wavy button fronts
• No surface damage ,needle chew,feed dog chew,or other abrasion

BUTTONS AND SNAPS

• Missing,broken,defective,misplaced or insecurely sewn
• Button not securely affixed or improperly stitched down
• Button corroded or oxidized
• Button incorrect size
• Snap fasteners,broken,bent,cracked,improperly clinched or failing to effect a secure closure or to open freely
• Snap components corroded or oxidized
• Buttons and snap fasteners shoud be Nickel free.

HOOKS AND EYES AND LOOP TAPE

• Metal damaged or corroded or oxidized,affecting function
• Not securely affixed
• Misplaced,causing bulge,twist,distortion or pucker
• Defective
• Shoud be Nickel free.
• Loop length too short or too long
• Missing components

ZIPPERS

• Incorrect length of fastener or pull
• Not sewn properly
• Missing pull
• Missing top or bottom stop
• Does not operate smoothly through range of length
• Teeth or pull corroded or oxidized
• Shoud be Nickel free.

DRAWCORD

• Not attached or inserted correctly
• Incorrect finished length
• End of drawcord not finished,knotted or otherwise treated to prevent pulling back into tunnel
• Eyelet missing or misplaced

BINDING

• Not securely caught in fabric,causing binding to pull away from fabric
• Too tight, causing puckering or pleating
• More than two splices in one binding operation
• Badly twisted
• Not matching the rest of the garment
• Incorrect width of finished binding
• More than one shade of material in joined bias strips
• Binding of raw edges omitted

BUCKLES / SUSPENDER LOOP

• Broken,rough or sharp edges
• Coating omitted or thickness of coating / plating less than specified
• Wrong color or material type
• Incorrect size or type
• Oxidized or corroded
• Misplaced,Not attached as specified

BELT LOOPS

• Omitted or misplaced
• Not fused or parasealed
• Set at an angle
• Not securely attached
• Length too short,constitching waistband
• Width not as specified or poorly shaped
• Length too long causing gap of material to extend above waistband
• Turn-under of loop not trimmed
• Bottom end of loop not securely caught in waist seam
• Center back loop not on center seam
• Tacking not extending full width of loop

DARTS

• Not properly tapered causing bulge,twist or fullness
• Not identitical in size
• Positioned incorrectly or uneven

SHOULDER PADS

• Shoulder pads should be sewn on securely
• Pads should be evenly positioned
• Not correct color,size or type

PRESSING

• Burns,scorching shine marks,if napped,look for an undesirable crushed appearance
• Pressed in correctly,especially lapels,collars,cuffs,hems and permanent creases according to the standards in the spec pack.
• Permanent crease line should extend the full length of the garment.
• Seams should be press open
• Look for pressed-in stains,spots or soil
• Sweaters must not be pressed out to size

LABELS

• Make sure that the labels are sewn on straight and securely
• No monofilament thread
• No heat – cut labels with sharp edges
• Must meet requirements

THREADS

• Untrimmed threads longer than 0,7cms should be considered a defect
• Unauthorized substitution in size,color, type, thickness or servic

ODOR

• Odor or irritation to eye or skin from the products is considered a defect

SOIL

• Any oil or foreign material stains

Preparation Of Test Specimens/Materials

Six of each type of component within the garment are to be tested. Thread 2 pieces of the appropriate sized tape through the component as follows:

Bra Ring: Thread the tape through to form 2 loops on opposite sides of the ring.

Bra sliders: Thread 2 pieces of tape through the central post of the bra sliders and then open them out to form 2 loops on either side of the bra sliders.

Bra Hooks: Thread the tape through to form a loop through the closed side of the bra hooks and another piece to form a loop through the open side of the bra hooks.