Beautiful Sewing Machine Stitches made by Bar Tack Machine

Sewing Machine Stitches

Sewing machine stitches made by bartacking sewing machine like janome  is actually a lockstitch sewing machine group which produced a very high density sewing machine stitches in a very short length for increase strength of that particular place. Bartacking machine contains one needle and one bobbin. These machines are used for sewing both woven and knitted garments by machine operators

Function of Bar Tack Machine:

Bartack machine is used where the garments in high pressure such as belt loop, pocket corner, at the end of zipper and in that place where more strength is required to support extra load.

It is alternative of hand sewing. This machine is found on sewing shop.

Parts of the Sewing Machine:

Parts of the sewing machine is given below-

• Pulley
• Bobbin winding spring tensioner
• Back stitch lever
• Spring tensioner post box
• Thread guide
• Thread take-up lever
• Needle
• Pressure feed guide
• Throat plate
• Bobbin
• Bobbin case
• Pressure lever

More Spare Parts

• Anty Cutter
• Anty Cutter Knife
• Bobbin Case (P/M)
• Bobbin (P/M)
• Bobbin B/H
• Bobbin B/ Stitch
• Bobbin Bar Tak
• Bobbin Two Needle
• Cutter
• Cutter Special
• Cutting knife 6”
• Cutting knife 8”
• Cutting knife 10”
• Cutting Belt
• Cutting belt smol 3”
• Collar sewing gau.
• Cutting Clam
• Flying Guide
• Fabric Comb: (Steel)
• Guide Cr ¼
• Guide Cl ¼
• Guide Cr 1/16
• Plastic Hammar
• Piping Guide Cr
• Piping Guide Cl
• Scissors 6”
• Scissors 8”
• Scissors 10”
• Scissor Steel
• Star Gauge
• Gauge
• Twizer
• Tag Gun Machine (Nor)
• Tag Gun Machine (C/M)
• Thermo Paper
• Teaching Wheel
• Zipper Guide (R/L)
• Zipper Guide (2 Side)
• Guide Cl 1/16
• Guide Cr 1/32
• Guide Cl 1/32
• Guide Cr 1/8

Needle:

Kinds of needle. Mainly needle are two types:

1. Ball head needle.
2. Sharp head needle.

Use of needle according to process and machine:

Sl	Machine name	Used needle	Size
1	Plain machine	Db,  dp	7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18
Any size can be used according to fabric nature.
2	Welted kansai	Uo, uy	7, 9, 11, 14, 16,
Mainly used for kansai size is-14.
3	2 needle machine	Dp	7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18
Mainly used for this machine size is-14, 11.
4	Feed of the	Tv	7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18
Mainly used for this process size is-14, 11.
5	Over lock	Dc	7, 9, 11, 14, 16,
6	Hole sewing	Dp*5	7, 9, 11, 14, 16
7	Button sewing	Tq 1*5 & dp*17	7, 9, 11, 14, 16 / 11-16
8	Shaddle stc machine	Cp *1/12	12 – 18
9	Blind stc machine	Lw * 6t	9, 11, 14, 16

Note 1:- 7. , 9, 11 these number of needle are used for thin thread and according to fabric nature

For soft and normal fabric to avoid needle mark and after wash fabric rejection this these thin

Needles are used.

Note 2:- 14, 16, 18 these number of needles are used for thick thread according to fabric nature.

For thick and strong fabric these needles are used for perfection of the order.

Note 3:- for knit fabric ball head needle is used to avoid needle mark and after wash fabric rejection. Note 4:- all the db needle are thin in btm side and all the dp needle are thick in btm.

Yarn & needle size of international standard

Astmd 1683
Yarn specification	tex/ count	Remark
Cotton	35 tex   70 tex 105 tex
Polyester core	40 tex   60 tex 90 tex
Bs 3320
Polyester core spun	44  to 48 tex(ticket no. 80)
Iso 13936 – 1-2
100 % polyester core spun	45 tex ± 5tex
Astmd 434
Polyester cotton core thread	36 tex
Mercerized cotton	39 tex

Needle specification

Size	Metric 90(0.036 in)
Finish	Chrome
Point	Thin ball ( no.1/no.23)
Size	Metric 110(0.044 in)
Finish	Chrome
Point	Medium ball ( no.23/no.43)
Size	Metric 110(0.044 in)
Finish	Chrome
Point	Medium ball ( no.43/no.44)
Size	Metric 140(0.054 in)
Finish	Chrome
Point	Medium ball ( no.43/no.44)
Size	Metric 110(0.044 in)
Finish	Chrome
Point	Medium ball ( no.no.44)
Size	Metric 140(0.054 in)
Finish	Chrome
Point	Heavy ball ( no.45)

Yarn  size of international standard

Astmd 1683
Yarn specification	tex/ count	Remark
Cotton	35 tex   70 tex 105 tex
Polyester core	40 tex   60 tex 90 tex
Bs 3320
Polyester core spun	44  to 48 tex(ticket no. 80)
Iso 13936 – 1-2
100 % polyester core spun	45 tex ± 5tex
Astmd 434
Polyester cotton core thread	36 tex
Mercerized cotton	39 tex

Broken Needle Procedure:                                                  

• When a needle is broken during sewing, every effort must be made to locate ALL fragments of the broken needle in the garment(s), machinery must be checked, including such areas as the sewing machine throat plate, feed dogs and bobbin case.
• Magnet will be used to locate/search all fragments of the broken needle.
• Any breakage must be recorded in the Needle Control Log and the broken fragments attached (kept) in the Log; entries into the Log must be completed in full.
• The Log should be kept in the Production Manager’s office. Head of Quality Control /QC Inspector shall review this Log at least once a month.
• If all fragments cannot be found, then the bundle of garments on which the operator is sewing, and any bundles in close proximity must be taken to a separate place for further examination.
• Unauthorized access to the place where garments in question placed must be forbidden.
• Under management supervision, all garments should be checked thoroughly.
• Garments in questions will be accepted only when all fragments will be recovered or when it is ensured that there are no broken fragments of the needle within the garments.

Features of Bar Tack Machine:

• It is simple automatic sewing machine.
• It is used for heavy sewing is small predetermined length.
• It contains 18 to 72 stitches, has option to change stitch density.
• Bartack machine based on lock stitches.
• It is a cyclic operation like hand sewing
• Sewing tools is key factors.

Specification of Bar Tacking Sewing Machine:

Specification of bar tacking sewing machine is given below-

[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Name“]	[label type=”label” title=”Specifications Value“]
Product Category	Sewing
Machine Category	Bar tacking Machine
Product Name	Bar tacking Machine
Product Model	Juki model
Product Class	New
Origin	China/India/Others
Brand/ Manufacturer	Elna
Agent in Bangladesh	No/Yes
Power	380v
Temperature	Normal
Certification	SGS/Others
Production Capacity	NA
Group	Lock stitch (Interlacement)
Stitch per one press	64 stiches (per pressure)
No of needle	1 needles
No of Bobbin	1
Seam class	Super imposed/Bound/lapped
Stitch class	300
Description	Should be error free.

How to Transport a Sewing Machine:

The machine generally packed with two piece covers that made as expanded polyester to protect it. Put the machine into carton. Use a cart or by two mens hands to move it.

How to Storage the Machine: 

The machine must use duster cover to cover it when it did not work. Do not storage the machine over 45 degree centigrade temperature because the machine does not work over 45 degree  centigrade temperature

Warning Instruction: 

• Pay attention to the following warning advices:
• Working area is dangerous
• Never touch the needle if the machine is still running
• Be careful if you infeed fabric
• Do not insert your finger between needle and feed dog for transportation on fabric
• Movable parts must be enclosed with guard when you operate
• Turn off the power during adjusting , threading, bobbin-changing and needle cleaning

Risk of Bar Tack Machine:

Broken needle may injure finger, eye or any where of the body.

Solution of Bar Tack Machine:

Use PPE Finger guard, Eye guard, Googles etc.).

Conclusion:

Bar tack machine is one of the most important and most expensive machines of garments production. It is not used for normal purpose.

[1] Md. Ferdus Alam, B.Sc. in Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Cell # 1723300700,  Email: ferdus.j@gmail.com