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What is Shrinkage Measurement Tester ?

Shrinkage measurement tester

Shrinkage measurement tester is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through the process of laundry, especially when applying heat. Shrinkage means dimensional change of knit fabric after certain agencies applied on it. It may be occurred when it is washed and dried or ironed. It may be occurred when it is laundered. The main issue for finishing and knitting

How to calculate the shrinkage?

  • The remember is that for every 1/8″ the lines shrink, this equals one percent in shrinkage.
  • Before wash, the lines measured 12.5” so if the fabric measures 12 3/8″ after wash, the difference is 1/8” or 1%  shrinkage calculated.
  • As example- .125/12.5=0.01 x 100 = 1%

What is garments fitting?

  • Basically the customer’s /wearers’ comfort ability will require on the wearing apparels.
  • Better appearance will be the second requirement of the well fitted garment.
  • Different type of fitting problem and its solution
  • We find deferent type of fitting problem when we wear garment on dummy or human body. Some common problem and its solution given on next slides

Shrinkage procedure

  • shrinkage s/b 10% for cotton & 100% for denim & elastin fabric
  • Shrinkage fabric s/b length 70 cm and width 70 cm.
  • write roll no, yards, style name, order no on shrinkage fabric.
  • four side mark s/b distance 50 cm by pen or sewing track.
  • out put side s/b over lock.
  • wash
  • Shrinkage check.
  • Shrinkage report.shrinkage-before-and-after

Documents need to be checked during factory evaluation

  • Fabric / yarn / skin inspection report.
  • Trim / accessories inspection report
  • Fabric shrinkage / elongation test report.
  • Garment shrinkage / elongation test report.
  • Pre-wash inspection report.
  • Post-wash inspection report.
  • Dye lot control report. [Shade band report. (Show some shade bands)]
  • Fusing control report
  • Pre-production meeting report.
  • Pilot run record.
  • Production planning record
  • Fabric relaxation report
  • Cutting inspection report (cut & sewn items).
  • Embroidery
  • Printing inspection report
  • Inline inspection report.
  • End-of-line inspection report and / or 100% finished garment inspection report.
  • Thread trimming inspection report
  • Pressing inspection report
  • Final QA audit report (after packing).
  • Broken needle policy. (Mandatory).
  • Metal or needle detector calibration report (Mandatory for La Sensa & Royal Velvet )
  • Sharp tools control policy. (Mandatory )
  • Broken needle register (last 3 months record)

Some List of Measurement Discrepancy

Chest/Bust
Waist
Bottom/Sweep
Center Back Length
Back Length Fm Hps
Center Front Length
Front Length Fm Hps
Side Seam
Across Shoulder
Across Front
Shoulder Seam
Across Back
Yoke Heigth
Arm Hole
Slv Length
Slv Under Arm
Bicep
Elbow
Cuff Length / Opening
Slv Plkt Length
Collar/Band Lenght
Collar Point
Collar Height
Band Height
Pkt Position
Pkt Position Cf
Pkt Lenght
Pkt Width
Flap Heigth At Center
Flap Height At Side
Slv Tab Length
Slv Tab Width

Elastomeric Silicone Micro-emulsion for Shrinkage

Auto  is a finishing agent based on elastomeric silicone micro-emulsion stable to shearing forces. It imparts a particularly soft handle and elasticity to a wide range of fabrics.
It can be applied by padding and exhaustion.
The high stability to shearing allows its use on Jet or Overflow machines. Nevertheless, we recommend to perform preliminary trials.
Aqueous dispersions are very stable and the low polarity allows its use with a wide range of finishing agents like fixing agents, electrolytes and resins. It permits to obtain good whiteness without risk for lustre of hue of optical brighteners.

Appearance
Ionic activity
pH (1 % aqueous solution)

Yellow hazy liquid

Non ionic

•    Gives a particularly soft and smooth handle
•    Imparts elasticity and a quick shrinkage to hosiery goods
•    Confers good sewing properties, mainly on synthetic blends
•    Can be used as brushing lubricant for fleece fabric
•    Enhances crease resistant properties of finished garments
•    Can be applied on yarns as knitting and winding lubricant
•    Can be used for all types of fibres including natural/synthetic blends and some uncommon fibres like mohair and silk
•    Is compatible with fixing agents like Croscolor FIX-DRS, glyoxal and resin systems
•    Can be applied by padding or exhaust methods
•    It behaves well to shearing

•    By exhaustion

It is recommended to work in slight acid conditions to improve the product build-up. Optimum pH is between 5.5 – 6.5 but an adequate exhaustion is achieved in more neutral medium.
A good stirring is essential to obtain a good absorption and an even repartition.
The level of product to apply depends on different factors like the type of the fibre and spinning (ring or Open-end). In the Open-end system, a higher quantity is needed. A level of
2 – 3 % is recommended to obtain softness with lubricating characteristics and good sewing properties.
It is preferable to dilute Auto  with water before addition to winch and other long liquor ratio machines.
A treatment at 40 – 50°C will give a regular exhaustion after 20 minutes.

IMPORTANT

Avoid direct contact of Auto  with steam.

To avoid silicone stains, it is recommended to heat the bath at a temperature between
40 – 50°C. Then, add Auto . This temperature must not be modified during the exhaustion of Auto .

•    By padding

We recommend a concentration of 20 – 30 g/l of Auto  for wet on wet application with a good exchange of liquor.
Stable mixtures with crease resistant resins can be made, but it is nevertheless advised to make some lab trial to check the compatibility.

Fabrics can be dried by usual way. It is not necessary to polymerise at high temperature.

Good hygienic and industrial practices should be followed and, when employed as recommended, Auto  will not present any hazard.  However, prolonged skin contact with the neat product should be avoided and any splashes on the skin should be washed off with water.
For further instructions, see Auto  Material Safety Data Sheet.
A team of trained textile technologists, along with full laboratory, pilot plant and semi-bulk facilities are maintained to carry out any trials or technical service work associated with our products. This team of technologists is available to carry out trials at customer’s premises when appropriate.

These resources are available without any obligation on the customer to purchase our products.
The information given in this leaflet is based not only on work in our laboratories but also on the reported results of other workers in this field. It is offered without guarantee and no patent liability is assumed.

Standard achievable shrinkage & twisting for different type of fabric:

Sl no. Types of fabric Required dimensional stability Tolerance of dimensional stability in kiabi manual Required twisting Tolerance of twisting in kiabi manual
1 1×1 rib solid L=±5%, w=±5% L=±5%, w=±5% 5% 5%
2 1×1 rib y/d L=±6%, w=±7% L=±5%, w=±5% 5% 5%
3 S/j above 160 g.s.m solid L=±5%, w=±5% L=±5%, w=±5% 5% 5%
4 S/j above 160 g.s.m y/d L=±5%, w=±5% L=±5%, w=±5% 5% 5%
5 S/j 160 g.s.m & below 160 g.s.m solid L=±5%, w=±5% L=±5%, w=±5% 7% 5%
6 S/j 160 g.s.m & below 160 g.s.m y/d L=±5%, w=±7% L=±5%, w=±5% 7% 5%
7 Elastane fabric L=±8%, w=±6% L=±8%, w=±6% 7% 5%
8 Interlock L=±7%, w=±5% L=±5%, w=±5% 5% 5%
9 Pique polo L=±7%, w=±5% L=±7%, w=±5% 5% 5%

Shrinkage measurement

application:

 

 

 

 

touch:

 

weight:

 

width:

 

wash shrinkage:

heat shrinkage:

 

base material:

 

 

temporarily fusing interlining

suitable for washers and garment dyeing

fusible coating dissolves at a minimum temperature

of 40° C

 

soft

 

approx. 120 gr/sqm (weight without coating)

 

109/111 cm (43/44”)

 

from –0.5 to –1.5 %

from +/-0 to –0.5 %

 

100 % cotton

available in white, off-white and different colours

 

Recommended processing data:

 

fusing temperature:   135-155° C

fusing pressure:       approx. 5–15 N/cm²

fusing time:               14-16 sec.

 

To fuse by hand with flat iron:

switch the iron on maximum temperature

= position “cotton”.

 

Iron slowly with maximum pressure over the fabric

to fuse fabric and interlining.

 

Recommended

washing instructions:

 

minimum water quantity:

time:

temperature:

detergent:

 

after rinsing:

 

 

 

 

2 liters per shirt

12 minutes per washing cycle

40° C

without borax or perborate, pH value: 7 to 8

 

if necessary, another 5 minutes’ washing at 30° C with softener (pH value according to softener data sheet)

 

Before washing in series, we strongly recommend

to make trials first!

 

About Engr. Kh. Mashiur Rahman

He is Garment Automation Technologist and Editor in Chief of Autogarment. He is certified Echotech Garment CAD Professional-China, Aptech-India, NCC-UK and B.Sc. in CIS- London Metropolitan University, M.Sc. in ICT-UITS. He is working as a Successful Digital Marketer and Search Engine Specialist in RMG sector during 2005 to till now. Contact him- apparelsoftware@gmail.com

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