Round Cutting Knife Machine:
Round cutting knife machine is the most useful cutter knife instrument in apparel industry. Round knife is mainly used for small production. Round knife cutting machine is called round knife cutting machine because its cutter is round but slightly octagonal in shape. Round Knife is basically used for edge cutting while the manual laying or spreading is taking place. It is 200 mm in diameter and has a limitation for not cutting precise at the curve and thus is used for edge cutting as it gives a precise straight line cut. It is used for cutting the plain and stripe fabric, but strictly not for cutting the edge of the check fabric because it causes the problem of bowing if the check fabric gets an off-grain cut.
Function of Round Cutter Knife:
Round cutter knife is widely used to separate the big parts and separate the blocks of fabric from relatively small height fabric lay.
Types of Knives:
Types of knives is listed here-
- Round knife
- Bowie knife
- Cutter knife /cutting knife
- Throwing knife
- Sharpening a knife
- Utility knife
- Automatic knife
Knife parts are specified here shortly-
- Electric motor.
- Control handle.
- Power switch.
- Knife guard
- Throat plate
- Base plate
- Power Switch
- Power Supply
- Locking Disk
Specifications of a Automatic Knife:
|Specifications Name||Specifications Value|
|Machine Category||Knife Cutting Machine|
|Product Name||Round automatic knife|
|Product Model||According to Manufacturer|
|Origin||Made in China|
|Brand/ Manufacturer||cutlery corner|
|Agent in Bangladesh||No/Yes|
|Power||1 Phase 100, 110/120V, 220V/240V|
|Production Capacity||32mm (1.25”)|
|Blade size||4 Sided Blade 110mm (4 1/4”)|
|Standard Blade||High Speed Steel|
|Base Plate||Thin Bases & 4 rollers|
|Safety||With Finger Guard, Balanced Handle, CE|
|Weight||3.5kgs/ 7.7 lbs.|
|Description||Should be eror free.|
Features of Round Knifes:
- Round knife is more costly than Straight Knife Cutting Machine
- Round knife machine can be easily movement due to light weight.
- Round knife machine have manual grinder is used to sharp the blade.
- Blade automatic knife is octagonal type & has a very sharp edge.
- Fabric lay height can be cut using up to 40 percent of the blade diameter of round knife.
Advantages Round Cutting Knife Machine:
- Round knife is specially used for cutting suit of fashion garment,
- Throwing knife is easy to operate,
- Throwing knife is best suitable for gentle curve cutting.
Disadvantages Round Cutting Knife Machine:
- Throwing knife requires very skilled operator to cut the fabric,
- This machine is not suitable for bulk production,
- Very low knife height.
Fabric Height Cutting’s Rules:
|Type of fabric||Height|
|2) t/c or cotton fabric||1″|
|3) dobby fabric||¾”|
|4) cotton spandex (solid)||1″|
|5) cotton spandex (stripe)||¾”|
|6) oxford fabric (solid)||¾”|
|7) oxford fabric ( stripe)||½”|
|8) twill cotton (solid)||¾”|
|9) twill cotton (stripe)||½”|
|10) corduroy fabric||¾”|
|11) denim fabric (hard)||½”|
|12) denim fabric (soft)||1″|
Standard Operating Procedures of Cutting
Cutting: It is the process of effective utilization of fabric by efficient marker making and cutting of garment parts to provide support to business by reducing the Fabric Costs (added due to wastages).
Importance of Cutting: In garment business, Fabric cost covers 60% of the total cost of manufacturing. Thus, it becomes very important to use the fabric efficiently with least wastages. Cutting department can be considered as the most important department for any Factory.
Cutting Department: The following processes constitute the Cutting department:
- Fabric Relaxation
- Spreading and Cutting
- Numbering and bundling
SOP for Cutting: First of all, the Shade segregation report is referred
- After receiving the fabric, it is verified with the Shade report as per CCR, which is prepared by merchandiser by considering the shrinkage rate with shade report.
- Fabric relaxation of minimum 48 hours is done for Spandex fabrics
- Table preparation is done and fabric Spreading is done. The record for end –bits is kept. During laying, the Q/C continuously checks the fabric and marks the area containing defects. These marked area parts are replaced later on using the same roll end – bits
- After spreading, Marker is placed on top of the lay and checking is done by placing hard patterns to avoid any errors of marker, overlapping, grain line and missing parts.
- Once, the marker is confirmed to be OK, Cutting is done followed by Cut Panel Audit. Any issues arising are resolved by the Cutting In-charge and defective parts are replaced simultaneously.
- Numbering and Bundling is done after cutting to avoid any serial mistakes during sewing (which may lead to panel to panel shade variation).
- After Numbering, bundles are sent for Fusing and Printing. The Q/C checks the quality and placement of fusing and printing randomly. Any issues encountered are immediately highlighted and resolved by the Cutting in-charge.
- Once, all the quality check points are passed, the cut parts are issued to the Sewing department.
Reports in Cutting Section: Six reports are being made in the Cutting Section:
- Fabric Relaxation Record
- Marker and Spreading Checking Report
- Daily Cut Panels and Bundling Checking Report
- Parts Replacement Report
- Fusing M/C Temperature and Pressure Checking Report
- Fusing M/C Clean Report
Fabric Relaxation Procedure:
Fabric relaxation is very important for fabric having stretch/spandex in nature. This kind of fabric is required to be unrolled and kept for minimum 24 hours to come back to its original shape. Relaxation is vital to keep measurement after cutting consistent.
- 79% Model 21% polyester
- 62% Viscose 34% polyester 4% linen
- 95% Polyester 5% spandex
- 63% Polyester 34% rayon 3% spandex
- 75% Polyester 22% rayon 3% spandex
- 93% Polyester 6% spandex 1% rayon
- 55% Linen 45% rayon
- 60% Rayon 37% polyester 3% spandex
- 55% Rayon 45% polyester
- 97% Cotton 3% spandex
- 100% Polyester
- 55% Linen 45% cotton yarn dyed
- 82% Rayon 18% polyester
- 55% Linen 45% Cotton
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