Fusing Machine

The fusing machine has always been a bit of a problem because there are many different types of fusing. The fusing cannot be too thin, as the bone in collar will be visible especially on  white materials. The rolling space should not measure more than a few Millimeters

Factories do use different bias tolerances for skin, patch and collar band. In Bangladesh, Peter Kwong  and Mr Turan  made some  experiments  with the following bias tolerances as follows: skin 35% patch 23% band 9%. The sample collars  from Bangladesh look good. We, in Brussels, received many different collars from Different factories  like: China factory,  Gin-Win,  Bangladesh factories

  • Weekly production planning status report of Fusing Machine
  • Fabric inspection report
  • No fusing, pressing, button stitch/buttonhole, snap button attach machine, bartack and body form available in the sample room.
  • Hard pattern, knitting chart, board pattern for pressing without pattern maker/checker’s name, signature, seal & date. Customer and order number to be mentioned as well.
  • Garment & sweater panel wash test records and reference sample found inconsistent with production records.
  • Daily production report
  • Trims/ Accessories inspection report.
  • Inventory record for fabrics & accessories.
  • Cutting inspection report spreading market, 100% cut panel etc.
  • Fusing check report and the log book of calibration
  • Fabrics, accessories, trims and components in sample room are not kept on shelves or racks or pallets with cover. Storage of samples, trims & accessories is not appropriate and not tidy. Poor housekeeping.
  • Insufficient lighting found in sample room. Should
  • Calibration records for each fusing machine missing and date of calibration and expiry date not mentioned on machine.
  • Air conditioning non purified water kept in the fusing room & the water is dropping down into into a bucket near where fused parts are kept
  • Production file to should contain the following: all kinds of test reports, approved trim card, sample comments, make sheet, spec, pre-production meeting record, trial cut record, first output comments etc.
  • Fabric needs to be sent to interlining supplier to obtain data sheet (temperature/pressure/timing) on fusing conditions during sampling stage.
  • Inline/ End line inspection report
  • Daily measurement report
  • Final inspection (Final audit, Pre final ) report
  • Third party audit report for last year
  • Snap pull test record
  • Fabric relaxation record-Knits (with date & time)
  • All measuring must be calibrated.

Other Issue

 Horizontal Splits       .
 Horizontal Splits       .
 Sample Machines       .
 Sample Machines       .
 Sample Machines       .
Dryers/ExtractorsDryers       .
 Dryers       .
 Extractors       .
 Extractors:       .
BoilersBoiler  750     ton/each
 Type of boiler fuel
Types of Machines
WashersOpen Pockets       .
 Open Pockets       .
 Open Pockets       .
 Horizontal Splits       .
 Horizontal Splits       .
 Horizontal Splits       .
 Sample Machines       .
 Sample Machines       .
 Sample Machines       .
Dryers/ExtractorsDryers       .
 Dryers       .
 Extractors       .
 Extractors:       .
BoilersBoiler  750     ton/each
 Type of boiler fuel
Types
Wet ProcessingCellulose enzyme wash
 Stone wash
 Desize rinse
 Garment dyeing (direct/reactive dye)
 Dip dye
SandblastingNumber of blasting nuzzles
Blasting MaterialsAluminum oxide
 Garnet
Hand brushingTonello/hand brushing machine
 Machines for shirt/jacket brush
 Machines for paint brush
Specialty finishesRubber ball wash
 Tinting (direct/reactive dyestuffs)
 Pattern dyeing/blasting
 Coating

Types of Fusing

Thickness of fusing:

We  would like to advise  the thickness grams per M2 of the fusing as shown in list below. The list will help all parties Brussels buying, Mondial and the factories.

The list:

The list below: Fusing thickness has been selected and put together for shirts made in regular poplin material 40’s 50’s yarn . Please do use one step thinner fusing machine when the thickness of the material is thicker than poplin Like (dobby weave/oxford). I would say one step

thinner on thicker material as follows: If the fusing on poplin is  3630 use 3620 this would then be for the 1st and 2nd layer and collar band too. 

Cuff fusing:

We can always use the same fusing like 1st layer of the collar

Placket fusing:

This fusing can be on a roll, the fashion is not  thick and stiff plackets. The placket needs to be soft and smooth.

Starting point:

The list bellow is an attempt to start putting some information together and can be changed at all times for better results

Name Bone yes/no -X-piece yes/no 1st layer grams-m2 2nd layer grams-m2 Collar band Grams-m2 Cuff grams-m2
Shark wide spread Inside No w3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar
Kent wide spread Inside yes w3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or w3640/170gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar
Button down no yes w3610/85gr w3620/108gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar
Alfie yes yes w3620/108gr w3630/146gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar
Cosmo inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Dean  (soft collar thick stitching) no yes w3610/85gr w3620/108gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Executive –1mm remov yes 3620/108gr 3630/146 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Executive –5mm inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Wing               (special collar) no no 3610/80gr 3010/80 none  
Zaza inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Button down small no yes 3610/80gr 109 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Rafca inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Button down casual no yes 3610/80gr w3620/108gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Gyorgy -B-D no yes 3610/80gr w3620/108gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Kent-2 inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165 or 3640/170 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Cut away inside no 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Double button inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Emilio inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
New Alfie inside yes 3620/108gr 3630/146gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Double button cut away inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Pharell -B-D no yes 3010/80gr 3620/108gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
H-B Long tip inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Cut away top store inside No 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Kent Westbury inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Kent Canda            inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Vario               (special collar) inside none   3040r No band 3040r  
Kent 9138 inside   3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Button under no   w3620/108gr 145 ? Same as 1st layer collar  
Cut away Westbury inside No 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Emilio inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Kent Italy inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Mac coy inside No X piece 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Helmut   inside No X piece 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Christian inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Hans inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Kent-1 inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Vincent triple button no yes 3010/80gr w3620/108gr 3630/146gr    
Celio inside   w3620/108gr 3630/146gr 3630/146gr    
Kent 1055 inside yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
New H-B inside No X piece 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Collar 1895 no No X piece w3610/85gr w3620/108gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Doc- Holiday no No X piece w3610/85gr w3620/108gr w3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Father no No piece 3010/80gr w3620/108gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Gable yes yes 3630/146gr Fiyi/165gr or 3640/170gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Raf no No piece 3010/80gr w3620/108gr 3630/146gr Same as 1st layer collar  
Double Sherlock     3010/80gr 3010/80gr 3630/146gr w3620/108gr  

Conclusion

Fusing Machine -The function of the placket fusing  is only to reinforce the buttonhole and help the stitching of the placket edge.