Button Pull Test
For the UK all fabric buttons must conform to all aspects of BS 4162. In order to ensure buttons are securely attached to garments a minimum pull force of 90 Newtons (9.17 kg) is required. 1 Newton = 0.101971621298 kg. Independent laboratory and factory in house button pull test is required. Please note that any independent laboratory testing will be actioned by David Howard UK. The factory is responsible for carrying out their own in house button pull test, as per this guideline. All fabric buttons must comply with REACH EC 1907/2006 Annex 17 No. 27. For the UK buttons must not resemble food and must comply with the Food Imitations (Safety) Regulations 1989 SI No. 1291.
- Buttons must be tested for colour fastness to water and garment durability.
- Wood/cork/leather/mother of pearl (shell)/glass or other non-durable buttons must not be used on children’s clothing.
- Buttons must not have rough or sharp edges.
- Buttons must be free from rust and contamination.
- Covered buttons used on garments for children less than 36 months must be secured with a stitch through the button onto the garment.
- Knitted covered buttons – plastic buttons to be lockstitched on and crochet around the button to give the effect. Must pass a 90N button pull test
- Buttons on children’s garments must not contain toxic elements in excess of the limits specified in EN 71:3.
- Jewelled or 2 part fabric buttons are not permitted on childrenswear.
- Toggle buttons must be assessed for shape, catchment and attachment hazards.
- Buttons can only be fabric covered if 1 piece.
Fabric Buttons Attach
All fabric buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine. Minimum of 10 stitches. For George orders a slight tonal thread must be used in the bobbin for easy identification of lockstitch buttons. Please ensure that you use the colour thread you intend to use in bulk on the pre-production samples to obtain approval of the tonal thread used prior to commencing with bulk.
- Buttons must not be handstitched or chainstitched.
- When attaching a button the following factors should be considered in order to guarantee a secure attachment: Also refer to BS 7907:2007.
- Thread quality and ticket size
- Number of stitches
- Button quality
- Distance between holes on button (pull stress distribution)
- Fabric type
- All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch fabric buttons attach machine:
- 2-hole buttons must have 14-16 stitches
- 4-hole buttons must have 24-26 stitches
- 4-hole buttons must be stitched through each hole.
- Only core spun polyester sewing thread to be used when attaching buttons.
- Buttons must be attached through a secure foundation of fabric, typically at least 2 plies of fabric with a suitable interlining if required in order to achieve secure attachment.
- Please ensure the needle in the lockstitch button attach machine is changed daily when the machine is in constant use – in order to prevent damage to the fabric.
- For garments that require a wash, it is recommended that buttons are attached after washing to avoid damage to either the button or the garment.
- Spare buttons must only be used on adult wear and must be securely lockstitch attached to the garment.
- No fabric buttons markings must be visible on production garments.
- Lockstitch buttonhole are required. Exceptions to this must be discussed with David Howard UK.
- Buttonhole openings must be made through a secure foundation of fabric, typically no less than 2 plies of fabric with a suitable interlining where necessary.
- Buttonhole openings must be 2mm larger than the button for ease and security of fastening.
- All buttonholes must have got good coverage.
- Thread ends must be trimmed to 0.5cm for all Buttonhole Sewing Machine
- No buttonhole marking must be visible on production garments.
- Knife blades should be changed regularly to ensure they are sharp and correctly set at all times.
Inspections & In-House Testing
- Inline Inspections must be performed for due diligence purposes for all childrenswear (under 16).
- Factory in house testing must be carried out to confirm this.
- In-house tests must be carried out for each order/style (Mens- and Childrenswear).
- All factories must have a pull test machine.
- The SOP of the button pull testing must be displayed near the machine.
- The machines must be calibrated every year, with certifications available. A sticker with date of calibration and expiry date must be displayed on the machine. Calibration certificate should be displayed near the machine.
- The button pull test results must be recorded on a process control chart, clearly stating the machine number and ident.
- Every line/machine needs to be checked every 2 hours. The check can be carried out with a mock up (same style/same construction fabric) rather than an actual bulk garment to avoid shortages to the order. The mock up must be made under bulk conditions using bulk machines of the relevant line.
- The first check must be at the beginning of the shift.
- All records must be kept for 5 years.
- A minimum of 5 samples must be checked on each machine.
- Buttons checked must cover all different locations of attachment, e.g. placket, collar, cuff, spare buttons, epaulettes etc., as different locations can have different results and different reasons in case of a fail.
- All tested samples must be destroyed or marked and kept in such a way that they cannot get mixed into bulk production by accident.
- If the needle or sewing thread breaks a pull test is required.
- If the bobbin runs out during the operation, stop production and check the stock.
- All records must be available for David Howard or any auditor to audit.
- If the results are below 90N do not carry on with production, but stop and check stock. For this you must be able to identify the stock that was done in the last 2 hours since the last successful check.
3rd Party Button Pull Test
- An independent test report is required on all button pulls. This will be arranged for by David Howard UK.
- The button pull test report is valid for one season only ( 6 months)
(If the factory, sewing thread, button or fabric changes a new test report is required at the independent lab.)
- 5 garments must be send to the lab to be tested (as per BS7907:2007). Only complete garments should be sent and not mock ups, so the lab can clearly state which button has been tested on which part of the garment.
- The following table shows examples of which buttons need a test report:
|Button size||Button colour||Fabric colour||Fabric thickness||Thread colour||Thread quality||No. of button pulls required|
|same||different||different||same||same||same||1 per fabric colour|
|different||different||same||same||same||same||1 per type of button|
|same||same||same||different||same||same||1 per fabric thickness|
|different||same||same||same||same||same||1 per button size|
Rouleau loops must be machine stitched only. Elasticated Rouleau Loops must pass a 90N pull test performed by a nominated lab. All records must be kept for a minimum of 5 years.
Self fabric loops do not require button pull test.